However further investigation of what happened showed it should have had a max 10 psi +- cold. Not 35 and definitely not 44Correct
However further investigation of what happened showed it should have had a max 10 psi +- cold. Not 35 and definitely not 44Correct
Needless to say I now read warning labels thoroughly.lolWow, that would suck!!!!
That's one of the reasons I have R4 tires on the tractor I use in the woods. I don;t need a sharp rock or stick/log tearing a hole in the sidewall. The traction does suffer in some conditions over what I would get with R1 tires, but the studded "euro-style" chains help make up for that (I'd have the chains on regardless of tire type for winter work anyway: both tire styles suck on ice.)AFAIK. R1 tires (ag tread) have relatively weak sidewalls compared to the rating of most modern loaders. Get a good load in the bucket and the front tires well be sagging. R4 tires (e.g. typical skid steer tires) have much stronger sidewalls, but traction suffers in mud etc.
Great info, Wonder my Turf tires come in line with the R4 sidewall in comparison. Have other utility trailer, tandem trailers, now have to start paying close attention to the sidewall warnings.AFAIK. R1 tires (ag tread) have relatively weak sidewalls compared to the rating of most modern loaders. Get a good load in the bucket and the front tires well be sagging. R4 tires (e.g. typical skid steer tires) have much stronger sidewalls, but traction suffers in mud etc.
Typical turf tire sidewalls are nowhere near the strength/toughness of R4 tiresGreat info, Wonder my Turf tires come in line with the R4 sidewall in comparison. Have other utility trailer, tandem trailers, now have to start paying close attention to the sidewall warnings.
Ummm,,, do you think that tire is only made to go on your CK?My tractor, guessing, weights maybe 3000 - 3300 lbs (with FEL and tire ballast)… extrapolating the charts, if I run max pressure (44 psi) in each tire I could carry a whole ‘nuther CK and still be under the tires weight ratings…
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Definitely read and understand the 4 digit code for manufactured date.Ummm,,, do you think that tire is only made to go on your CK?
I appreciate that tire manufacturers mark their sidewalls with this information. Another valuable one is "made date".
Use the marked information as a guide to not overload or over pressure your tires. Adjust accordingly.
Especially trailer tires. It's like they have an internal clock!!!! At a certain age, and it's not very long, they self destruct.Definitely read and understand the 4 digit code for manufactured date.
…a very good point...Ummm,,, do you think that tire is only made to go on your CK?
And how old is too old for a tractor tire?…a very good point...
I should‘ve stated: I’ll be running these R14’s for the foreseeable future… I’m the epitome of the “weekend warrior”… I Don’t use my tractor on a daily basis, it’s more of a convenience on our property, well, that and way more fun than a shovel or a hand-truck…
Having R1’s on my other tractor I appreciate the smoothness of the 14’s… I’ll probably appreciate them even more when I get their pressure Adjusted correctly…
Your point regarding the manufacture date is probably the most overlooked item in the tire industry… for those who don’t know, the four figure date mark (stamped in an oval on your tire’s sidewall) is the week and year of manufacture… I.e. ”3321” corresponds to the 33rd week of 2021 (or, roughly, August 2021)
If they hold air run them.And how old is too old for a tractor tire?
Are my 30+ year old tires too old?
Do I risk death if I still run them this winter plowing snow?