Finishing mower blade removal question

[SgtSluggo]

So I now have a Farm King Y750R finishing mower. It sat in a field for about a decade before I pulled it out to try to get it working. I was able to get it running, but I am really struggling to get the blades off for sharpening/replacement.

I don't have a real breaker bar, but I am also not sure how to really get enough strength on the retaining nut while keeping the blades still.

Anyone got a good technique for this?

Thanks.

 

[duffer]

You should be able wedge a box wrench on the top of the bolt above the blade, and then use the breaker bar to loosen the nut underneath the blade.

Spray some penetrating oil on the bolt and let it set overnite. If that doesn't work, take a torch and heat up the bottom nut and then try to break it loose.

 

[RjCorazza]

I used to block the blade with a 2x4 so it would bind up against the decking, then use a pipe over the wrench. The handle for a floor jack works well also.
Really the best method is air tools though. They'll make life easier for years to come.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I always used a chain on the blade. Use a wrench and a cheater pipe on the blade bolt. You might need some bigger tools because they are sometimes pretty tough. I changed 60 blades every other day, sharpened them on the off day. Replaced bad ones. I had air tools, but still broke them loose with a wrench. Sometimes air wouldn't get it. So I just broke them all loose with a wrench, since I was gonna need it anyway. Be sure to block it so it won't fall on you.

 

[seville009]

So I now have a Farm King Y750R finishing mower. It sat in a field for about a decade before I pulled it out to try to get it working. I was able to get it running, but I am really struggling to get the blades off for sharpening/replacement.

I don't have a real breaker bar, but I am also not sure how to really get enough strength on the retaining nut while keeping the blades still.

Anyone got a good technique for this?

Thanks.

You don’t need a real breaker bar, just something that will fit over the wrench handle, and is long to give you leverage (4 to 5 feet is enough). A steel pipe, or something like that - look around your garage and see what’s laying around.

I use this:

 

[m7040]

cordless impact wrench is what I use

 

[Have tractor did travel]

My contribution to this comes late - but I'll bet it's the solution.
Some old time finish mower has reversed threads. That is, to loosen them, turn the nuts clockwise.
Old Chrysler products used to have the lug nuts on one side with same reversed threads, but I can't remember which side it was

 

[BackRoad]

^^^^ My Rhino 3 spindle finish mower has reverse thread bolts holding on the mower blades.

And they are not cheap to replace if you hit a stump (errrr...so I have heard

 

[Little Red Tractor]

My contribution to this comes late - but I'll bet it's the solution.
Some old time finish mower has reversed threads. That is, to loosen them, turn the nuts clockwise.
Old Chrysler products used to have the lug nuts on one side with same reversed threads, but I can't remember which side it was

They tightened in the direction that the wheels turned, as I recall. Too long ago to be sure.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

If clearances are tight (no room for a pipe), and you're not too worried about a box wrench, a solid blow to the wrench with a 2-3 pound hammer might do the trick. I have a 4 pound lead hammer that's worked for that without damaging the wrench.

 

[Cycledude]

I’ve always used 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench and a 6 side impact socket never had any trouble getting them off.

 

[CJen]

My Land Pride RCF2072 specs 450 ft-lbs for the 1-11/16" blade nuts. Made this wrench from scrap pipe and a cheap socket. Use a pipe to extend it out to 8' so removal is much easier and tightening to spec is about 56 lbs at the end. Worth the effort it made sharpening the blades much easier.

 

[5030]

cordless impact wrench is what I use

I've never met a cordless impact with enough balls to break a blade nut on a brush hog or pto finish mower. The just don't have that kind of guts.

 

[m7040]

I've never met a cordless impact with enough balls to break a blade nut on a brush hog or pto finish mower. The just don't have that kind of guts.

Well there are several very powerful cordless impacts that will do that. Check it out. Mine is a Milwaukee with adjustable torque setting. Not Cheap

 

[5030]

Well there are several very powerful cordless impacts that will do that. Check it out. Mine is a Milwaukee with adjustable torque setting. Not Cheap

When it comes to Milwaukee, nothing is cheap. The issue is, those high torque cordless impacts are way beyond the reach of the average Joe (and you know that).

I prefer air tools myself and I'll put my Thor 1/2" drive impact up against your Milwaukee any day and it cost about 1/4th of yours, both in nut busting power and tool weight.

Torque Test Channel don't lie.

 

[m7040]

Sure I have both. IR 3/4 air impact and 1/2 inch air impacts. Use of the cordless saves on the pulling hoses and I am able to use it away from the compressor. If you don't like those that is fine with me

 

[jsrustad]

My contribution to this comes late - but I'll bet it's the solution.
Some old time finish mower has reversed threads. That is, to loosen them, turn the nuts clockwise.
Old Chrysler products used to have the lug nuts on one side with same reversed threads, but I can't remember which side it was

Left side had left-hand threads. I remember this even though I'm young enough to have only run into it once. Dad sent me out to get the left front wheel off a van so we could patch the tire. I took the service car and a cross wrench and jack. I could NOT break it loose. I went back to the shop and got the service truck (which had compressed air). Dad's hired help saw me putting the impact wrench in the truck and stopped me. He said "Chrysler?" and then explained it.

 

[m7040]

Sure I have both. IR 3/4 air impact and 1/2 inch air impacts. Use of the cordless saves on the pulling hoses and I am able to use it away from the compressor. If you don't like those that is fine with

Sure I have both. IR 3/4 air impact and 1/2 inch air impacts. Use of the cordless saves on the pulling hoses and I am able to use it away from the compressor. If you don't like those that is fine with me

1400 ft lbs of torque for the Milwaukee cordless works for me

 

[5030]

I gave my IR Thundergun to a friend when I got the Thor. I also kept my 3/4 drive IR long anvil tank but the Thor handles 99% of my jobs.

Found with the Thor, of it don't break it loose, it twists the shank off. Air power is never an issue, I have a rotary screw compressor and a 300 gallon receiver. I like the screw compressor because one. it's quiet and 2, the refrigerated dryer is built in. Its a Sullaire btw. I did have to go to high flow fittings however. The Thor is an air pig.

 

[5030]

Left side had left-hand threads. I remember this even though I'm young enough to have only run into it once. Dad sent me out to get the left front wheel off a van so we could patch the tire. I took the service car and a cross wrench and jack. I could NOT break it loose. I went back to the shop and got the service truck (which had compressed air). Dad's hired help saw me putting the impact wrench in the truck and stopped me. He said "Chrysler?" and then explained it.

Actually, Ford 1 ton full floater rear axles are the same deal and many other larger trucks. The bearing pre load nuts can be LH threads or RH threads depending on rotation. Why cheap torque wrenches don't work for me as well. I need torque values in both directions.