Mahindra 5155 Anyone?

[DaBear3428]

Sad day I only spent 5 hrs on my tractor over the weekend. I spent more time maintaining and fixing stuff I bent repairing fencing etc. I love the tractor and it is impressive what it will do without loaded tires or additional ballast. I have to keep reminding myself to rev it up because it does everything that i need at 1000 rpm.

 

[Andy1969]

Glad you’re liking it so far. Just be careful running it without loaded rears or ballast hanging off the back. I have loaded rears and the loader is strong enough to still pick the whole back end up (ask me how I know). So this past weekend I stuck my heavy 6’ box blade on while I was picking up an old truck utility bed that I was loading to take to the scrap yard. Just keep in mind if you’re going to do any heavy loader word. Enjoy the tractor!

 

[DaBear3428]

Glad you’re liking it so far. Just be careful running it without loaded rears or ballast hanging off the back. I have loaded rears and the loader is strong enough to still pick the whole back end up (ask me how I know). So this past weekend I stuck my heavy 6’ box blade on while I was picking up an old truck utility bed that I was loading to take to the scrap yard. Just keep in mind if you’re going to do any heavy loader word. Enjoy the tractor!

I agree with every word, the tractor has a capability far in excess of what i need so I'm keeping the limitations in mind during operation. for right now the tractor is light enough not to track up my yard. I will attach my box blade with some additional weight later and i may load the tires but that is tuff to undo so I'm holding off on that.

I have already experienced the lifting rear end, learned really fast to keep the FEL low when pulling or pushing on something that is still attached to the ground.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Have any of you guys had issues with the shuttle shifter popping out of gear?

Our 5155 has been popping out of reverse when the clutch is released. The shuttle shift lever springs forward to neutral and gears audibly grind when it pops out. Holding the lever in reverse doesn't solve it.

It did it to us a couple times the first night we used it. I assumed it was operator error at first, because it seems like the shuttle shifter is not completely engaging into reverse. So I slowed my shifting down and tried being more deliberate. Still popped out.

The clutch pedal had excessive free play, so I adjusted it to spec and hoped this would solve the problem, thinking that possibly the free play was preventing the clutch from disengaging completely, preventing the shuttle shifter from shifting completely into gear.

After using it for a few more hours tonight, it still occasionally pops out of reverse. Much less frequently than before the clutch was properly adjusted, though. I wish it had revealed this problem at the dealership before we towed it home. The tractor had 5 hours on the meter when we took ownership of it. Could the transmission possibly be damaged from those first 5 hrs. of use at the dealership? I'll be calling the dealer on Monday with some questions.

But, have you guys experienced anything like this? Am I overreacting? We live and operate this tractor or a fairly steep mountainside property, so the thing popping out of gear is definitely an issue. I'm going to look at the shift linkage between the shuttle shift lever and the transmission tomorrow to see if there are any adjustments to be made there. Hoping it's something simple for sure.

 

[Andy1969]

Have any of you guys had issues with the shuttle shifter popping out of gear?

Our 5155 has been popping out of reverse when the clutch is released. The shuttle shift lever springs forward to neutral and gears audibly grind when it pops out. Holding the lever in reverse doesn't solve it.

It did it to us a couple times the first night we used it. I assumed it was operator error at first, because it seems like the shuttle shifter is not completely engaging into reverse. So I slowed my shifting down and tried being more deliberate. Still popped out.

The clutch pedal had excessive free play, so I adjusted it to spec and hoped this would solve the problem, thinking that possibly the free play was preventing the clutch from disengaging completely, preventing the shuttle shifter from shifting completely into gear.

After using it for a few more hours tonight, it still occasionally pops out of reverse. Much less frequently than before the clutch was properly adjusted, though. I wish it had revealed this problem at the dealership before we towed it home. The tractor had 5 hours on the meter when we took ownership of it. Could the transmission possibly be damaged from those first 5 hrs. of use at the dealership? I'll be calling the dealer on Monday with some questions.

But, have you guys experienced anything like this? Am I overreacting? We live and operate this tractor or a fairly steep mountainside property, so the thing popping out of gear is definitely an issue. I'm going to look at the shift linkage between the shuttle shift lever and the transmission tomorrow to see if there are any adjustments to be made there. Hoping it's something simple for sure.

Walt, no you aren’t overreacting. It should not do that regardless of how hard you’re pulling. Definitely get in touch with your dealer and have them take care of it. Sounds like the linkage is not adjusted properly. Definitely a warranty repair for your dealer to handle. It’s possible they could make the adjustment on site at your place which would save having to transport it to the dealer. But regardless get it taken care of right away. Continuing to allow it to come out of gear under load will damage something expensive!! Let us know how you make out.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Walt, no you aren’t overreacting. It should not do that regardless of how hard you’re pulling. Definitely get in touch with your dealer and have them take care of it. Sounds like the linkage is not adjusted properly. Definitely a warranty repair for your dealer to handle. It’s possible they could make the adjustment on site at your place which would save having to transport it to the dealer. But regardless get it taken care of right away. Continuing to allow it to come out of gear under load will damage something expensive!! Let us know how you make out.

10-4, thank you for the advice, Andy. I'll keep you updated.

Interestingly, a fellow member and 5155 owner started this thread about an hour ago:

https://tractorbynet.com/forums/threads/new-5155-synchro-grind.450747/

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Update:

Couldn't sleep anyways, so I got up early this morning and started researching. I bought the pdf 5155 service manual from Bill's Tractor. Got it downloaded, turns out I was sent the manual for the 4500 series by accident, I am hoping. Regardless, nothing useful regarding shift linkage for the 5100 series.

So, I went outside and started to really inspect the linkage, which I should have done sooner. The shuttle shift cable connects to the shift lever on the side of the transmission. It is located beneath the floor boards between the fuel tank and the transmission as shown below. The cable shifts the lever towards the rear of the tractor for reverse, or towards the front for forward. There is a small range of adjustment in the clevis at the end of the shift cable.

I suspected the shifter was not shifting the transmission completely into reverse, causing it to pop out and grind under load. I backed off the retaining nut and removed the connecting pin, which is held in place with an attached tab that snaps around the shaft of the clevis. I rotated the clevis on the threaded rod two full turns to lengthen the throw of the linkage, thus shifting the transmission "further" into reverse. This adjustment was small enough to not affect the Forward shifting throw.

Replaced the connecting pin and tightened the retaining nut, then did some testing. Made around 100 forward/reverse shifts in the yard without it popping out of gear. Tried every gear with different amounts of throttle to simulate different loads. I put it in 4wd and stopped the tractor facing downhill on a slope. Then I backed up the slope using a variety of gears and throttle, including some quick clutch releases in high-range/1st to really put the shifting mechanism under load. Never popped out.

I'll be posting if it happens again, but knock on wood adjusting the shift linkage seems to have cured the problem.

 

[Andy1969]

Gr

Update:

Couldn't sleep anyways, so I got up early this morning and started researching. I bought the pdf 5155 service manual from Bill's Tractor. Got it downloaded, turns out I was sent the manual for the 4500 series by accident, I am hoping. Regardless, nothing useful regarding shift linkage for the 5100 series.

So, I went outside and started to really inspect the linkage, which I should have done sooner. The shuttle shift cable connects to the shift lever on the side of the transmission. It is located beneath the floor boards between the fuel tank and the transmission as shown below. The cable shifts the lever towards the rear of the tractor for reverse, or towards the front for forward. There is a small range of adjustment in the clevis at the end of the shift cable.

View attachment 744941


I suspected the shifter was not shifting the transmission completely into reverse, causing it to pop out and grind under load. I backed off the retaining nut and removed the connecting pin, which is held in place with an attached tab that snaps around the shaft of the clevis. I rotated the clevis on the threaded rod two full turns to lengthen the throw of the linkage, thus shifting the transmission "further" into reverse. This adjustment was small enough to not affect the Forward shifting throw.

Replaced the connecting pin and tightened the retaining nut, then did some testing. Made around 100 forward/reverse shifts in the yard without it popping out of gear. Tried every gear with different amounts of throttle to simulate different loads. I put it in 4wd and stopped the tractor facing downhill on a slope. Then I backed up the slope using a variety of gears and throttle, including some quick clutch releases in high-range/1st to really put the shifting mechanism under load. Never popped out.

I'll be posting if it happens again, but knock on wood adjusting the shift linkage seems to have cured the problem.

Great work! I had a feeling that something with that shuttle linkage wasn’t adjusted quite right. Glad you found it and seem to have corrected the issue. I’d still mention it to your dealer just to have it on record if something would crop up later. This way you could point back to the root cause. Glad it’s working good for you again. Enjoy the tractor. Mine is sitting inside right now waiting for several days of rain to dry up now that it’s finally stopped raining. Right at 20 hours on the meter.

 

[DaBear3428]

Update:

Couldn't sleep anyways, so I got up early this morning and started researching. I bought the pdf 5155 service manual from Bill's Tractor. Got it downloaded, turns out I was sent the manual for the 4500 series by accident, I am hoping. Regardless, nothing useful regarding shift linkage for the 5100 series.

So, I went outside and started to really inspect the linkage, which I should have done sooner. The shuttle shift cable connects to the shift lever on the side of the transmission. It is located beneath the floor boards between the fuel tank and the transmission as shown below. The cable shifts the lever towards the rear of the tractor for reverse, or towards the front for forward. There is a small range of adjustment in the clevis at the end of the shift cable.

View attachment 744941


I suspected the shifter was not shifting the transmission completely into reverse, causing it to pop out and grind under load. I backed off the retaining nut and removed the connecting pin, which is held in place with an attached tab that snaps around the shaft of the clevis. I rotated the clevis on the threaded rod two full turns to lengthen the throw of the linkage, thus shifting the transmission "further" into reverse. This adjustment was small enough to not affect the Forward shifting throw.

Replaced the connecting pin and tightened the retaining nut, then did some testing. Made around 100 forward/reverse shifts in the yard without it popping out of gear. Tried every gear with different amounts of throttle to simulate different loads. I put it in 4wd and stopped the tractor facing downhill on a slope. Then I backed up the slope using a variety of gears and throttle, including some quick clutch releases in high-range/1st to really put the shifting mechanism under load. Never popped out.

I'll be posting if it happens again, but knock on wood adjusting the shift linkage seems to have cured the problem.

Glad to hear you worked it out.
Does anyone else have an issue with the knob that adjusts the speed of operation for the 3 point lift?

My knob is acting like the shaft is bent below the floorboard, ie hard to turn then easy then hard and the shaft changes direction while turning.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Glad to hear you worked it out.
Does anyone else have an issue with the knob that adjusts the speed of operation for the 3 point lift?

My knob is acting like the shaft is bent below the floorboard, ie hard to turn then easy then hard and the shaft changes direction while turning.

Thank you!

Yup, I just went out and tried mine after reading your post. First time I've played with that function, actually. Sure enough, mine does the same thing exactly as you described. Not super impressed about that. Love everything else about the tractor, though.

 

[DaBear3428]

Thank you!

Yup, I just went out and tried mine after reading your post. First time I've played with that function, actually. Sure enough, mine does the same thing exactly as you described. Not super impressed about that. Love everything else about the tractor, though.

I will climb under mine and see what is going on, maybe that is the way it is suppose to be, I will talk to the service manager at my dealer he is pretty good at giving me the straight info.

 

[DaBear3428]

Update:

Couldn't sleep anyways, so I got up early this morning and started researching. I bought the pdf 5155 service manual from Bill's Tractor. Got it downloaded, turns out I was sent the manual for the 4500 series by accident, I am hoping. Regardless, nothing useful regarding shift linkage for the 5100 series.

So, I went outside and started to really inspect the linkage, which I should have done sooner. The shuttle shift cable connects to the shift lever on the side of the transmission. It is located beneath the floor boards between the fuel tank and the transmission as shown below. The cable shifts the lever towards the rear of the tractor for reverse, or towards the front for forward. There is a small range of adjustment in the clevis at the end of the shift cable.

View attachment 744941


I suspected the shifter was not shifting the transmission completely into reverse, causing it to pop out and grind under load. I backed off the retaining nut and removed the connecting pin, which is held in place with an attached tab that snaps around the shaft of the clevis. I rotated the clevis on the threaded rod two full turns to lengthen the throw of the linkage, thus shifting the transmission "further" into reverse. This adjustment was small enough to not affect the Forward shifting throw.

Replaced the connecting pin and tightened the retaining nut, then did some testing. Made around 100 forward/reverse shifts in the yard without it popping out of gear. Tried every gear with different amounts of throttle to simulate different loads. I put it in 4wd and stopped the tractor facing downhill on a slope. Then I backed up the slope using a variety of gears and throttle, including some quick clutch releases in high-range/1st to really put the shifting mechanism under load. Never popped out.

I'll be posting if it happens again, but knock on wood adjusting the shift linkage seems to have cured the problem.

I wonder if this is a 55 only issue? I have no problem with this on my 5145.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

I will climb under mine and see what is going on, maybe that is the way it is suppose to be, I will talk to the service manager at my dealer he is pretty good at giving me the straight info.

I crawled under mine when I checked it and determined that it's pretty inaccessible. You'll see what I mean when you look at yours. It looks like the shaft goes into a small hydraulic valve body just beneath the floor boards.

Please keep us posted, I'm interested in hearing what your service manager has to say on the matter. I haven't had the best of luck getting straight info from ours, which is why I typically try to diagnose/problem solve the issue myself first.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

I wonder if this is a 55 only issue? I have no problem with this on my 5145.

Eh, I dunno. Andy has a 5155 and he hasn't any issues at all with his.

I tend to believe that it is a recently occurring assembly problem, since the other fellow that posted about the issue had just recently bought his tractor as well.

Parts wise, the shift linkage design of the 5145 and 5155 should be identical, which would lead me to believe that both models would have the issue. Unless they are assembled on different lines, which would prove that it is in fact an assembly issue.

 

[Andy1969]

Eh, I dunno. Andy has a 5155 and he hasn't any issues at all with his.

I tend to believe that it is a recently occurring assembly problem, since the other fellow that posted about the issue had just recently bought his tractor as well.

Parts wise, the shift linkage design of the 5145 and 5155 should be identical, which would lead me to believe that both models would have the issue. Unless they are assembled on different lines, which would prove that it is in fact an assembly issue.

No issues with mine. The only real difference between the 5145 and 5155 is the added turbo on the 55. So likely they have to fine tune that linkage adjustment when they set it up on the production line. Remember that this is a new model and with anything new it’s not unusual to find little things that the factory has to learn about set up jigs and processes. My guess is that shuttle linkage could be an area that they need a better set up adjustment procedure either at the factory or maybe at the dealership as those final adjustments might be made at the dealer. I haven’t had anything hooked to my three point yet so I can’t comment on the lowering rate adjustment knob. I’ll check that out this weekend. I’m an operations manager at an aerospace manufacturer. And when we start making a new product, there are always growing pains and teething problems with assembly jigs and fixtures. Building a few prototypes shows that the design can be manufactured. Doing that over and over again isn’t as simple. Hopefully they figure out any little bugs they have in their manufacturing process and I’m sure they will.

 

[austinarant]

Update:

Couldn't sleep anyways, so I got up early this morning and started researching. I bought the pdf 5155 service manual from Bill's Tractor. Got it downloaded, turns out I was sent the manual for the 4500 series by accident, I am hoping. Regardless, nothing useful regarding shift linkage for the 5100 series.

So, I went outside and started to really inspect the linkage, which I should have done sooner. The shuttle shift cable connects to the shift lever on the side of the transmission. It is located beneath the floor boards between the fuel tank and the transmission as shown below. The cable shifts the lever towards the rear of the tractor for reverse, or towards the front for forward. There is a small range of adjustment in the clevis at the end of the shift cable.

View attachment 744941


I suspected the shifter was not shifting the transmission completely into reverse, causing it to pop out and grind under load. I backed off the retaining nut and removed the connecting pin, which is held in place with an attached tab that snaps around the shaft of the clevis. I rotated the clevis on the threaded rod two full turns to lengthen the throw of the linkage, thus shifting the transmission "further" into reverse. This adjustment was small enough to not affect the Forward shifting throw.

Replaced the connecting pin and tightened the retaining nut, then did some testing. Made around 100 forward/reverse shifts in the yard without it popping out of gear. Tried every gear with different amounts of throttle to simulate different loads. I put it in 4wd and stopped the tractor facing downhill on a slope. Then I backed up the slope using a variety of gears and throttle, including some quick clutch releases in high-range/1st to really put the shifting mechanism under load. Never popped out.

I'll be posting if it happens again, but knock on wood adjusting the shift linkage seems to have cured the problem.

Meant to reply the other day but just wanted to let you know that I adjusted the linkage as you explained and it seemed to have fixed it perfectly. I noticed in the photo yours has more threads exposed than mine did initially and I backed mine up 2 complete turns as you posted. So far so good. Thanks again. Saved me a dealership trip and warranty work!

 

[austinarant]

Thank you!

Yup, I just went out and tried mine after reading your post. First time I've played with that function, actually. Sure enough, mine does the same thing exactly as you described. Not super impressed about that. Love everything else about the tractor, though.

Mine is the same way. Loose and feels like bent or not mounted correctly.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

Meant to reply the other day but just wanted to let you know that I adjusted the linkage as you explained and it seemed to have fixed it perfectly. I noticed in the photo yours has more threads exposed than mine did initially and I backed mine up 2 complete turns as you posted. So far so good. Thanks again. Saved me a dealership trip and warranty work!

Awesome! I'm glad to hear that it worked for you as well, good deal.

As for the 3 pt. lowering adjustment knob, it definitely doesn't seem right in my opinion. I mean, everything else on the 5100 series seems to be so well designed and thought out, if makes so sense to have something as dysfunctional as that by design.

I definitely recall that when I went to fiddle with mine for the first time the other day, it seemed to make one smooth rotation, then became loose and "kinked" is probably the best word to describe it. The more that I mess with it the worse it seems to become.

Think I'm gonna call my dealer tomorrow as well, see if they know anything about the issue. If I don't get anywhere with that maybe I'll dig into it this weekend.

 

[Woodstock Walt]

I just posted this in another thread and it reminded me that I'd been meaning to post it here as well.

Anyways, the other day I discovered that the KMW ("Mahindra") diverter valve kit is finally available through the Mahindra parts catalogue. It cost $2700, though, which is a bit ridiculous in my opinion. I had a WR Long 3rd function on my 4540 and I'll be ordering one for the 5155 in the near future.

 

[DaBear3428]

I just posted this in another thread and it reminded me that I'd been meaning to post it here as well.

Anyways, the other day I discovered that the KMW ("Mahindra") diverter valve kit is finally available through the Mahindra parts catalogue. It cost $2700, though, which is a bit ridiculous in my opinion. I had a WR Long 3rd function on my 4540 and I'll be ordering one for the 5155 in the near future.

I would never pay that for a diverter valve. the WR long is only $900 and much better IMO.