My Industrial Cabin Build

[WoodChuckDad]

Yep. I think they did. Looks like I have some work to do on it.

 

[EddieWalker]

The flashing for the vents,yeah iI am going to address that it will have to be an adhesive seal. You do not screw things thru a standing seam metal roof. They are supposed to float.

I don't understand this. How does a metal roof float when each panel is nailed to the roof the full length of the panel.

Floating floors are not attached to anything. They stay in place from it's weight. Your roof is nailed in place, so how does it float?

At 18:40 into the video you can see the nail gun being used to nail each panel to the roof.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

They are clipped and nailed on the edges and are supposed to move freely in the middle for thermal movement. There are several types of clips that hold the panels to the roof. Some basically let it float up and down the roof with expansion and some are fixed. I don’t know which ones we’re used on mine. But the center of the pan is supposed to float free. That is why you get oil canning on some roofs.

 

[ovrszd]

In our previous house I laid Laminate Flooring in the kitchen/dining area. Was told to not fasten it down and to always leave a slight gap at the walls so it could "float". When I was done I moved the cabinets in and filled them with a hundred pounds of kitchen products. Moved the kitchen stove in. Moved the dishwasher in. Moved the Refrigerator in. Dining table and chairs. All setting on the "floating" floor...... Floating, right.....

 

[BigBlue1]

In our previous house I laid Laminate Flooring in the kitchen/dining area. Was told to not fasten it down and to always leave a slight gap at the walls so it could "float". When I was done I moved the cabinets in and filled them with a hundred pounds of kitchen products. Moved the kitchen stove in. Moved the dishwasher in. Moved the Refrigerator in. Dining table and chairs. All setting on the "floating" floor...... Floating, right.....

I get what you're saying, but ultimately the floor does generally have the ability to expand and contract somewhat. If you ran the floor right up to the walls then it would have nowhere to go when it expanded (due to temp change or humidity) and it might buckle. Myself, I have a pool table and a very large and heavy dining/bar table in our lower level on floating LVP flooring so the same thoughts have crossed my mind but I came to the above conclusion.

 

[deezler]

You do not screw things thru a standing seam metal roof. They are supposed to float.

True, but I think having a durable and permanent, weather-sealed roofing protrusion is more important than each roofing panel being 100% floating. My roof definitely does some pings and pops on a cool evening after a sizzling summer day. But 32 foot long panels will do that; no problem.

 

[s219]

The clips on a standing seam roof should allow the roof to expand and contract with temperature (only one end is pinned). But it always made me wonder how a screwed in metal roof is expected to behave normally. Thinking about the roof I just put in, each panel has about 36 screws. Nobody ever worries about expansion/contraction with those panels even though it must happen.

 

[EddieWalker]

They are clipped and nailed on the edges and are supposed to move freely in the middle for thermal movement. There are several types of clips that hold the panels to the roof. Some basically let it float up and down the roof with expansion and some are fixed. I don’t know which ones we’re used on mine. But the center of the pan is supposed to float free. That is why you get oil canning on some roofs.

I'll take your word for it that this is happening. Watching the video, it looks like he nailed each panel into place just as tight as it was possible with that nail gun. How much movement do you get in 12 inches, I have no idea.

If it was me, I would screw the flashing right through the metal and into your decking below with a lot of sealant so it comes out and makes a big mess. Then happily clean up the mess knowing there was a 100% complete seal that will never, ever leak.

Since it's not my roof, I think you should contact the manufacturer of the roof and ask them what would happen if you screwed the flashing into place.

I have zero confidence that you can glue it on, and that it will remain glued on for any period of time. It might last a year or two, but between the heat and freezing that occurs on a metal roof, along with movement from the heat and freezing, and even thunder storms, that glue is going to fail eventually.

 

[dstig1]

I agree with Eddie 100% here. Your first call should be to the roofing manufacturer (or their website). Odds are they have details on their website that covers installation instructions for roof penetrations.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

This roof was formed in place. The metal came on a flat coil roll and was formed into roofing pans on site. And I will be on the roof each year checking and cleaning my chimney. At least until I’m too old to do it myself. I could use panel adhesive and it would never come apart. But then if the boot cracks or dry-rots I won’t be able to change it. I’ll figure something out. But I’m not planning to screw it down.

 

[airbiscuit]

Why not ask the roofers and/or the roofing manufacturer for the recommended method for flashing vent pipes?

 

[747driver]

ways to flash a standing seam roof vent pipes

 

[WoodChuckDad]

I will look at that video tonight.

Here is the latest that I dripped today.

 

[airbiscuit]

I will look at that video tonight.

Here is the latest that I dripped today.

I think you must have roof leaks on the brain

 

[airbiscuit]

Do you use fuel treatments for the water and biocides?

 

[buckeyefarmer]

If you got space side by side I’d keep water and electric in separate trench as far as you have space.
Could water trench be done up on the bank?
Where does water enter compared to electric meter?

 

[pmsmechanic]

Around here people install water and power in the same trench all the time. The water line gets installed at least 6+ feet deep because of frost and the power goes in at 32 inches. So water line, partial back fill, power line, finish it off.

For center pivots the water line and the power also go in the same trench. 6-8" water line on one side and 3 phase power on the other. There is enough separation so if any repairs are needed there are no issues as long as there is a competent operator on the excavator.

One of the advantages of having water and power in the same vicinity is that you don't need to bury a tracer wire with the water line as the ground in the power line can be used for that purpose. For those that don't know a tracer wire is used to send a signal for a receiver to pick up. The newer locators are pretty accurate as to where the line is.

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Water enters almost under the electric. About two feet to the left. Our frost line is 18 inches. So we would have electric in bottom at about 38 and well at about 2 feet

 

[EddieWalker]

Around here people install water and power in the same trench all the time. The water line gets installed at least 6+ feet deep because of frost and the power goes in at 32 inches. So water line, partial back fill, power line, finish it off.

For center pivots the water line and the power also go in the same trench. 6-8" water line on one side and 3 phase power on the other. There is enough separation so if any repairs are needed there are no issues as long as there is a competent operator on the excavator.

One of the advantages of having water and power in the same vicinity is that you don't need to bury a tracer wire with the water line as the ground in the power line can be used for that purpose. For those that don't know a tracer wire is used to send a signal for a receiver to pick up. The newer locators are pretty accurate as to where the line is.

This is not allowed where I'm at, and pretty much everything is allowed here. We don't have any building Code outside of city limits, but if you want to have "city" water, then you have to do it their way.

It is written in stone that water and electricity must go in separate trenches with at least a foot of virgin soil between them. If you cross, then water MUST be on top of power.

The reasoning is that if you ever have a water line break, and they do all the time, you do not want to be digging in a hole full of water and risk hitting the power line. If the water line is below the power line, it is very easy to hit the power line while getting down to the water line.

I know from personal experience that if you decide to set a fence post, or dig into the ground for any reason, you will hit a power line eventually. In the last couple of years, I've cut two lines going through my yard.

Even if you know exactly where those lines are, there will be a time when you are not able to do the work yourself. Then it will be a friend, family member or contractor that is digging up that broken water line, and risking their life if the power line is above the water line.

Putting water and electricity in the same trench should never be done.

 

[ovrszd]

This is not allowed where I'm at, and pretty much everything is allowed here. We don't have any building Code outside of city limits, but if you want to have "city" water, then you have to do it their way.

It is written in stone that water and electricity must go in separate trenches with at least a foot of virgin soil between them. If you cross, then water MUST be on top of power.

The reasoning is that if you ever have a water line break, and they do all the time, you do not want to be digging in a hole full of water and risk hitting the power line. If the water line is below the power line, it is very easy to hit the power line while getting down to the water line.

I know from personal experience that if you decide to set a fence post, or dig into the ground for any reason, you will hit a power line eventually. In the last couple of years, I've cut two lines going through my yard.

Even if you know exactly where those lines are, there will be a time when you are not able to do the work yourself. Then it will be a friend, family member or contractor that is digging up that broken water line, and risking their life if the power line is above the water line.

Putting water and electricity in the same trench should never be done.

It's commonly done here.

We don't have any codes here either. After the water meter, you do what you want.