Trailer repairs

[m7040]

The brakes on the 10,000 lbs equipment trailer are not working. I do not use it often and the F350 dually has enough brake power when lightly loaded but would want to make it legal without a lot of expense. First problem was the connections on the wiring were twist on types or crimp types and no power to the brakes and some lights. Flipped the trailer over with the excavator and fixed all connections under the trailer with connectors with glue inside and when heated with the heatgun they seal pretty well. Now checking each wheel to see what I find. First one had broken wires inside the drum for the magnet. Spliced in some wires and tested the magnet. It works now so 3 more drums to go.

 

[m7040]

Also cleaning up the connections at the trailer hitch. Added a connector box and in the process of checking circuits

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Yes I just fixed one with air brakes that we use with our Mack.

 

[ljjhouser]

Looks like the wiring is in conduit. That is good. You are right, get rid of those twist on wire nuts. I always wanted to convert my brakes to electric-hydraulic disk. Until I found the parts were $2500.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

When my PJ Dump Trailer was brand new, just off of the lot, I had to repair the factory wiring.

 

[John0829]

Same here when I bought my tandem new, used it the first time and all worked correctly, next day no brakes. Wire nuts were in place but the wires were barely stripped so the nuts were on the insulation. I replaced all the wire nuts with soldered and heat shrink.

 

[JimRB]

Back in the summer I noticed brakes not working so swell on my 30 year old trailer. The good axle brakes (I replaced the original no brakes axle 25 years ago after it was bent in a low speed spin out on the highway) started working with some fresh crimps. The bad axle (old mobile home one time use axle with brakes but without real backing plates) did not fix. I got a new axle with brakes and proper backing plates. Not working. I spent time running a fresh ground wire. Hours later I discovered a bad crimp connector. Anyhow now the trailer now has two proper DOT axles with brakes. Still those crummy 14.5 tires that do not seem to last long. But it does stop properly.

 

[Rebeldad1]

you need a better tire guy. I built a tilt deck and used MH trailer axles. My tire guy got me the best load rating and a long lasting tire.
No complaints.

 

[LD1]

Wiring is the most common issue with trailers and brakes/lights not working.

It's almost never the wire. It don't just fail unless it's pinched. Connections are key. And those heat-shrink butt connectors with sealer are great. You are on the right track

 

[m7040]

The tires on the trailer are mounted on a rim wheel without a center and it mounts to the drum with blocks on each wheel stud. The tires are heavy duty and required 110 PSI

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Same here when I bought my tandem new, used it the first time and all worked correctly, next day no brakes. Wire nuts were in place but the wires were barely stripped so the nuts were on the insulation. I replaced all the wire nuts with soldered and heat shrink.

Mine was simply wired wrong. 2014 new dump for $5500 (I wish I could buy it for that price now!) and I'm in there fixing the wiring in the hydraulic box. Speaking of these Texas trailers (all of which boast about how good their powder coating is), look how that powder coating fails in Minnesota. This rust-bucket trailer we're fixing isn't that old.

 

[sandman2234]

I bought a 20 foot enclosed trailer that didn't have much in the way of brake power. I needed to use the trailer (as opposed to storing Harley's in it) so I bought a tag, changed the tires, packed the bearings. Noticed no wires going to the front axle, but the wire connectors were there. Turns out it had never had front axle brakes, even though equipped with front braking axle. A little wire and this fixed it!
David from jax

 

[3Ts]

Another PJ trailer problem - I bought a 14K dump from a dealer here in Texas and they put on "upgraded tires". The problem is that the holes in the rims were for 5/8 studs, and the hubs had 9/16 studs. They used the acorn type nuts to try to take up the slack, but the rim type required the flat washers type lug nuts. I didn't have 100 miles on it before I discovered this and the dealer ended up having to replace all the hubs because every stud was damaged.

 

[nyone]

Looks like the wiring is in conduit. That is good. You are right, get rid of those twist on wire nuts. I always wanted to convert my brakes to electric-hydraulic disk. Until I found the parts were $2500.

Wire in conduit may be good out of the rust belt. In the rust belt it's not good. The inside of the conduit will rust and chafe wires. I removed all the conduit on my car trailer and saw many chafed wires inside.

This also goes for boxed frames. You cant really paint the inside of the boxes frame and water/salt will always find it's way in. Next thing you know you have a rust hole in your nicely painted frame..its all over after that.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Back in the summer I noticed brakes not working so swell on my 30 year old trailer. The good axle brakes (I replaced the original no brakes axle 25 years ago after it was bent in a low speed spin out on the highway) started working with some fresh crimps. The bad axle (old mobile home one time use axle with brakes but without real backing plates) did not fix. I got a new axle with brakes and proper backing plates. Not working. I spent time running a fresh ground wire. Hours later I discovered a bad crimp connector. Anyhow now the trailer now has two proper DOT axles with brakes. Still those crummy 14.5 tires that do not seem to last long. But it does stop properly.

There are 2 types of 14.5 tires. Also I'm thinking you can swap to 6 or 8 lug hubs on that same axle. Both hubs will fit. Only difference is the seal and there are two different seals.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Another PJ trailer problem - I bought a 14K dump from a dealer here in Texas and they put on "upgraded tires". The problem is that the holes in the rims were for 5/8 studs, and the hubs had 9/16 studs. They used the acorn type nuts to try to take up the slack, but the rim type required the flat washers type lug nuts. I didn't have 100 miles on it before I discovered this and the dealer ended up having to replace all the hubs because every stud was damaged.

Acorn lugs require in and out Ford type wheels. If ring type GM the pilot hole must fit hub.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

My main love trailer had hydraulic drum brakes on both axles. New but not hooked up. Now, 23 years later, it's older but not hooked up. The news is I have electric brakes for it. I'm gonna do both axles and need two more backing plates.

 

[ljjhouser]

Wire in conduit may be good out of the rust belt. In the rust belt it's not good. The inside of the conduit will rust and chafe wires. I removed all the conduit on my car trailer and saw many chafed wires inside.

This also goes for boxed frames. You cant really paint the inside of the boxes frame and water/salt will always find it's way in. Next thing you know you have a rust hole in your nicely painted frame..its all over after that.

Wow, glad I don't live in the rust belt. That conduit in the picture did look like steel. I usually try to use plastic pex pipe because it is flexible and comes in so many sizes.

But, good to know. I would have never thought of severe rust in that tubing.

 

[ljjhouser]

I wanted to go with disk brakes. (requires an electric actuator pumping hydraulic to disks.) But it is too rich for me.

 

[OzarkChris]

Wiring is the most common issue with trailers and brakes/lights not working.

It's almost never the wire. It don't just fail unless it's pinched. Connections are key. And those heat-shrink butt connectors with sealer are great. You are on the right track

I'll add one other thing. In my personal experience, at least 'round here, the biggest culprit of trailer brakes are taking it out in the fields. I've seen more brake parts broken off by hitting a rock, stick, dead critters, dirt mound etc while driving through a field to drop off/ pick up "something".

Reminds me of the spare tire holders that are "factory installed" - regardless what side they are installed on, have you ever noticed how they are almost always on the wrong side when you try to load something!