Help me pick a mower

[Supraman0614]

You swapped out the tires each time you mowed? Was this a twice a year thing or every couple of weeks?

It was in the spring and then back to the R1's for late fall/winter. The loader and backhoe make it really easy to get the tractor off the ground.

 

[v908]

I have been lurking here for some time and have found the information very helpful...

I sort of came to the same decision point about 10 years ago when I bought my current property -- 5 acres, mix of grass/weeds (2 acres or so), and brush/trees (remaining 3). I knew I really wanted (needed) a compact tractor with FEL (and box scraper) for a variety of cleanup needs, but that it wouldn't do a nice job mowing the grass. Given the rough terrain in some areas, I also didn't think a ZT would work well, so I went with a large Craftsman "lawn tractor" -- T1600. I liked the riding mower because of the large deck, tight turning radius (18"), ability to mow in reverse (really handy), and it's powerful enough to pull various implements behind it when needed (chipper or small trailer). I have to admit, I have abused the crap out of the mower and it's held up to the abuse. Aside from mowing the grass out front (can't really call it a lawn), I also use it for bush clearing (if I can get the front over it, the mower will chew it up) and hauling stuff around the yard. I have to replace the blades every season (due to chewing on brush and rocks), but I've yet to have to perform any maintenance other than regular oil changes and blowing out the air filter. I thought I'd kill the poor thing after a couple of years, but 9+ years in, it's still running great and keeps the grass looking nice in the spring. Picture to show some of the crap I mow with it.

On the tractor side, I couldn't afford a nice, new tractor and the riding mower, so I went with a 'grey market' Yanmar F18D with a generic box scraper and Koyker FEL -- picked it up for a bit over $5K at the time (2012) and it's been a workhorse ever since. My wife initially thought I just wanted a big toy, but after a few large jobs around the property (we had a lot of trees to clear), she told me it was one of the best purchases we ever made. I had to replace the diesel fuel return lines this year (pretty simple job) and that's been it. It's even running on the same battery it came with. Again, oil changes and blow out the filter and she's happy.

So, if you want the grass to look nice, go with a dedicated mower (I prefer the 'lawn tractor' over the ZT) and find a tractor that will suit your needs for the heavier stuff. There are a variety of choices out there now -- even newer options like Kioti, Mahindra, and even Yanmar coming back into the market, making the prices more competitive.

As for snow, I can't help you there. I'm in a SoCal semi-desert area, so we get a couple inches a year max.

 

[sunbeam67]

Zero turn I have had good luck with my Bad Boy and a smaller used steer

 

[DGeorge747]

I have been lurking here for some time and have found the information very helpful.

We recently purchased a home with 2.5 acres. Two acres are mostly flat without obstacles and .5 acres is wooded. First, I am assuming any type of big box store riding mower, while a good price, will not be the best option because the decks are usually limited to 54 inches and durability. Therefore, we are debating between a ZT and SCUT (Kubota BX). Probably 80 percent of the work will be mowing grass, which makes me think the ZT is the best option. Also the ZT is less expensive. These are the reasons I am still considering the SCUT:

1. We have a 250 foot steep driveway that will require snow removal in the winter. Is this too much work for a push snowblower?
2. I worry there could be other uses for the FEL that may come up (e.g., moving mulch or debris). Just last week in a storm a large tree limb fell and the FEL would have been helpful to haul away the cut up logs. Instead I had to pay someone.
3. I wonder if the options for leave removal will better with a SCUT.

I asked my five nearest neighbors what they have and these were the results: two have only SCUTS (Kubota BX), one has only a JD X720, and two have SCUTS and ZTs. They said they had the SCUTS for many years before ZTs were widely available and now use the ZT for weekly mowing and the SCUTS for snow removal, leaves, and occassional loader bucket tasks.

I really don't want to pay for/maintain two mowers. So I see the options are buy a ZT because cutting grass is 80 percent of the work and find other ways to deal with other needs (e.g., pay someone to remove snow, enlist help of a neighbor, etc.). Or buy the SCUT and know we are self sufficient but it will take longer to do the task we do 80 percent of the time.

Thanks.

I was in almost the same situation 8 years ago that you are in today.

I too thought about a zero turn mower for my approximately 1.7 acres of lawn, but I also have a great deal of concrete to clear of snow in the winter in Iowa with a lot of deep, blowing snow where I am located. I also didn't want to have to maintain two pieces of equipment with twice as much maintenance on two different engines.

My solution was to buy a John Deere X749 with a 62" deck and a 54" blower. This setup has served me well over the last 8 years and the only maintenance has been oil and filter changes, a hydraulic oil change, sharpening of mower blades and regular cleaning. I thought that I would like a loader bucket too, but for as much as I would use it, which would be hardly ever, it would have been a waste of money.

Unfortunately, the JD X749 was discontinued after 2012 by John Deere because of the weight of this tractor with it's combination of a Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel, 4-wheel drive and 4-wheel steering.

If I had to purchase another tractor today, it would be the same setup, but it would have to be a JD X758 which has the Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel and 4-wheel drive. It does not have the 4-wheel steering and now is available with a drive over 60" mower deck. The 54" or 48" Snow blower is also available. With the diesel and the 54" blower I can really put a lot of snow where I want it given the amount of concrete I have and the large configuration of it.

The X758 would be my choice because the Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel and 4-wheel drive are a must.

Also, with the 54" blower and the power of the diesel, I have not yet had to use tire chains or extra weight, even to clear snow from my rear driveway to my shop below my house which slopes from an elevation of 14'.

Hope this helps or gives you some food for thought

 

[Tony H]

My opinion... I mow about 5 acres. I use a Walk behind with a Sulky. I have other machines for snow removal and such. 250' driveway with walk snowblower can work fine depending on your snowfall. It wouldn't work where I live. 30+" overnight is normal. We use larger tractors to bail out the plows on Pickup trucks.
Zero turns are awesome as compared to riding mowers with center deck for mowing very efficiently. They turn on a dime like a little 20" push mower. Tractors on small acreage will get you crazy with big turning radii too much reverse and forward.

 

[Tony H]

I was in almost the same situation 8 years ago that you are in today.

I too thought about a zero turn mower for my approximately 1.7 acres of lawn, but I also have a great deal of concrete to clear of snow in the winter in Iowa with a lot of deep, blowing snow where I am located. I also didn't want to have to maintain two pieces of equipment with twice as much maintenance on two different engines.

My solution was to buy a John Deere X749 with a 62" deck and a 54" blower. This setup has served me well over the last 8 years and the only maintenance has been oil and filter changes, a hydraulic oil change, sharpening of mower blades and regular cleaning. I thought that I would like a loader bucket too, but for as much as I would use it, which would be hardly ever, it would have been a waste of money.

Unfortunately, the JD X749 was discontinued after 2012 by John Deere because of the weight of this tractor with it's combination of a Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel, 4-wheel drive and 4-wheel steering.

If I had to purchase another tractor today, it would be the same setup, but it would have to be a JD X758 which has the Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel and 4-wheel drive. It does not have the 4-wheel steering and now is available with a drive over 60" mower deck. The 54" or 48" Snow blower is also available. With the diesel and the 54" blower I can really put a lot of snow where I want it given the amount of concrete I have and the large configuration of it.

The X758 would be my choice because the Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel and 4-wheel drive are a must.

Also, with the 54" blower and the power of the diesel, I have not yet had to use tire chains or extra weight, even to clear snow from my rear driveway to my shop below my house which slopes from an elevation of 14'.

Hope this helps or gives you some food for thoughty neighbor

My neighbor and good friend has the X758 really nice machine. I have used it quite a bit. Hate the backup blade shutoff dance with always pushing the button. (annoying new safety standard) many machines you can push a button once, this x758 needs to be pushed everytime you backup. The turning radius is tight but a ZT still cuts faster and nicer. My well-being weighs much less do no big time tracks. What out for the Sticker Shock when you look at this 'small' lawn tractor. I think that if you lean toward tractor I would go with something like the BX. But a tractor that can but grass rather then a lawn tractor that can push snow.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

You can buy a decent used ZT for the price of a MMM. I'm firmly in the camp of two machines. No issues with yanking the mmm for non-mowing tasks either. The ZT will also cut the mowing time in half, at least.

 

[Steelauzzy]

I bought a kubota scut with the 26hp engine and undermount mower. Apart from getting hospitalized twice from the rad hose blowing and burning the crap out of my arm it was the roughest slowest mower ever. 26k of junk. The loader was completely worthless could barely even pick up the weight of a set of pallet forks let alone the pallet.

absolutely buy the zero turn!! Get a cheap truck plow or some junker to plow on the 2-3 times a year your blower/shovel can’t handle it or just call a friend. If you do go for a scut spend the $$ to get one of a decent size. Growing up we had a grey market kubota about 25hp but with big tires and a decently heavy frame and a Ferris zero turn. Btw whatever zero turn you buy if you have gophers weld gussets and stiffeners to your front idler wheels before you even attempt to mow.

 

[IndyJay]

"Btw whatever zero turn you buy if you have gophers weld gussets and stiffeners to your front idler wheels before you even attempt to mow."

And wear the lap belt?

 

[tmcj]

A good ZT will outperform practically anything else in a typical rural homeowner lawn mowing situation. Speed, maneuvering, cut quality, etc. It is a purpose built machine and typically by far the best tool for the job. But, that is really all it is good for. Cost shouldn't be too bad as you don't need an expensive commercial grade mower. There are good quality residential zt's that would do fine if not abused and taken care of.

2 acres, mostly flat, without obstacles, would not be bad to mow with a scut and mmm or 3 point finish mower. It may take a little longer than a ZT but the versatility otherwise may be well worth it. If you get the FEL you will most likely use it for a lot more things than you would consider now. The scut also opens the door to other tasks with lots of implements and attachment options. Maybe 80% of its usage will be for mowing as you mentioned, but the other 20% of tasks could be much easier to take on also.

Good neighbors with equipment is good to have, but having your own and being self sufficient is far better in my book. If you can swing it and foresee other likely uses to offset the expense, I would go with the scut.

 

[tmc_31]

In 2007 I bought a 50" Troybuilt ZT from Lowes. priced at $2600 end of season and a safety switch that they replaced, I was out the door for $1975.

Just replaced the spindles and blades this year and some sheet metal on the deck to the tune of about $500.00. Other than tires, a belt and occasional batteries and oil changes this is the only money have spent on this mower over the 14 years I have had it.
We mow about 2 acres each week over the mowing season.

I also have a tractor/shredder that I use for mowing for others.

I feel that for me, the ZT was an excellent investment that will keep paying dividends.

Tim

 

[Williy]

Back in the late 70's purchased a craftsman riding mower
with snow blower returned it was not able to keep the belt
on so I purchased a walk behind snow blower it could handle
more snow than the riding mower blower! Now just wait for the
snow to melt.

INSTEAT OF REPLACING THE SPINDLES!
Remove the spindles use a punch or stick of wood and punch
the bearings out, remove seal from on side and grease well
then use a socket or whatever to replace bearing with open
side to center of spindle housing reinstall this done once a
year or every 2 years. When you put grease in the zerk in
the middle of the spindle you are not getting any grease in
the bearings they have a seal on them! Name of the game
is to save you some money!!!

willy

 

[tmc_31]

Back in the late 70's purchased a craftsman riding mower
with snow blower returned it was not able to keep the belt
on so I purchased a walk behind snow blower it could handle
more snow than the riding mower blower! Now just wait for the
snow to melt.

INSTEAT OF REPLACING THE SPINDLES!
Remove the spindles use a punch or stick of wood and punch
the bearings out, remove seal from on side and grease well
then use a socket or whatever to replace bearing with open
side to center of spindle housing reinstall this done once a
year or every 2 years. When you put grease in the zerk in
the middle of the spindle you are not getting any grease in
the bearings they have a seal on them! Name of the game
is to save you some money!!!

willy

Good tip Willy, thanks!

Tim

 

[TractorGuy]

Since you came to us for advice on spending your money:

I vote for an optioned out Kubota LX3310HSDC cab tractor with climate control. Total MSRP with options, $42,463.

1 FRONT - 7-12 R1 Bridgestone Farm Service Lug
REAR - 12.4-16 R1 Firestone Traction Field & Road TTinc.
(BR8707A & ABR9382)
1 54" QUICK ATTACH BUCKET$473.00
(B2371)
1 3RD FUNCTION VALVE KIT (CAB)$835.00
(B7369)
1 36" PALLET FORKS (1000 LBS. CAPACITY)$426.00
(K9048)
1 LOADER LX2610/LX3310 W/GRILL GUARD$3,882.00
(LA535)
1 K CONNECT MODULE - LARGE FRAME$712.00
(LX2941)
1 HOSE HOLDER KIT$70.00
(LX2953)
1 4 POINT HITCH AND SUBFRAME$1,351.00
(LX2940)
1 BOLT ON CUTTING EDGE$177.00
(B2373)
1 MECHANICAL SELF LEVELING KIT / LA535$822.00
(B2377)
1 63" RESIDENTIAL SNOWBLOWER$3,295.00
(LX2963)
1 PALLET FORK FRAME$665.00
(B2376)

 

[Steelauzzy]

I want to change my answer! Yesterday my mower needed some fixing so instead I hitched a little self powered pull behind behind my rtv500. Grabbed a cooler and some beer and went to it.
the swisher I was pulling is a little small like 44” and only like 18hp I think. Other than over the septic field I was able to just rip like 2-4 times faster than any mower. Suspension cupholders and a nice breeze was something I’ve never had mowing before! Also I stayed clean! The discharge is rear facing and like 12’ behind me. I’m in the process of building a 30hp 8’ wide now so I should be able to cut the time in half. The tiny one only took me about 2 hours to cut 4 acres.

The kubota new was 13,000cad and the swisher I pod 1200 but I think they are closer to 2500 new. Add a plow blade now you have a machine that can do everything from climbing the mountain to the cabin to gardening plowing etc. Also the kids love it!!
And unlike every other mower that no matter how “easy” it’s still a pain removing the deck. With the pull behind it’s one pin with maybe 2 lbs on the hitch.

 

[IndyJay]

...Grabbed a cooler and some beer and went to it.
... only took me about 2 hours to cut 4 acres.

... only took me about 2 hours a six pack to cut 4 acres.

There, I fixed it for you...

 

[NCL4701]

I bought a kubota scut with the 26hp engine and undermount mower. Apart from getting hospitalized twice from the rad hose blowing and burning the crap out of my arm it was the roughest slowest mower ever. 26k of junk. The loader was completely worthless could barely even pick up the weight of a set of pallet forks let alone the pallet.

absolutely buy the zero turn!! Get a cheap truck plow or some junker to plow on the 2-3 times a year your blower/shovel can’t handle it or just call a friend. If you do go for a scut spend the $$ to get one of a decent size. Growing up we had a grey market kubota about 25hp but with big tires and a decently heavy frame and a Ferris zero turn. Btw whatever zero turn you buy if you have gophers weld gussets and stiffeners to your front idler wheels before you even attempt to mow.

Agree with that. If you go with two machines, ideal but expensive, skip the SCUT and move up to a CUT. For tractor/loader work weight is as important as HP; both for loader capacity and traction. The weight needed for tractor/loader work is a negative for lawn mowing, which is why trying to find one machine to do both is likely to leave you disappointed in its performance as both a tractor/loader and mower.

 

[dadiehl]

To the OP.., if I have learned nothing else lurking this forum if you don’t leave this most knowledgeable group some financial boundaries your advice will be all over the map.

 

[New2Tractors2]

To the OP.., if I have learned nothing else lurking this forum if you don’t leave this most knowledgeable group some financial boundaries your advice will be all over the map.

Well, after reading the advice here, and not wanting to keep paying $500/mo to have the grass mowed by a landscaper, I went out about a ZT (JD Z545R). It makes quick work of *most* of the lawn. Right now I am contemplating whether I can get by without a SCUT for other jobs. It's really hard to know what type of equipment you will need until you've lived in a place for a while. I have no idea, for example, how difficult it would be to use a walk behind snowblower on the 200 foot driveway, whether mulching or a blower would suffice for leaves, or how often I would need to do other SCUT tasks. I am not ruling out a SCUT at the moment. The ZT works great for the main residential lawn and paid cash for it so I do not regret that. Of course, just last weekend I trimmed a bunch of trees to make room for the ROPS bar on the ZT, and boy it was a pain in the butt to haul them off the woods! If I bought a SCUT I'd probably seek a 0 interest financing deal.

 

[dadiehl]

Congrats on your new toy!