Want to buy a dump trailer, kinda torn here.

[LD1]

I have a 12 ft 12k trailer and when I was shopping for one I had to consider empty weight of the trailer and the weight of the load you can put in when you go to a 14k trailer the empty weight goes up so it's not like you can actually put another 2000lbs in it

Depends on the brand. There is very minimal weight difference between 6k and 7k axles. Usually there are other factors. Like longer trailer. Most 12k dumps are 12' long. Most 14k dumps are 14' long. And sometimes you get more under floor supports, or heavier gauge floor. So the upgrade to a 14k isnt always just about payload....but about how stout the trailer is and what size.

I have a 7x12 suretrac 12k. It weighs 3240# empty. An upgrade to 14k also means 14' long. The majority of the weight is simply the added length. But that said....it only adds 360# of curb weight. So while you dont get a whole 2k more payload.......you get pretty close and a bigger trailer to boot.

IF comparing two identical trailers.....and the ONLY difference were a pair of 6k vs a pair of 7k axles.....I doubt the difference would even be 100#

But as with all trailers, curb weight/payload vs overall construction is a trade-off. Build a light trailer on 8k axles and you will have alot of payload.....but will it hold up? OR build a tank on a pair of 6k axles and not even be able to haul 3-ton. Its a balancing act....and I think most of the big players have it figured out. Which puts a 7x14 bumper pull right around 4k empty with a 5 ton payload capacity

 

[timswi]

Almost all newer trucks now have factory 5th wheel/ GN prep with added cameras in the third brake light to see the GN ball. I back up to my GN alone in one attempt every time using the factory camera.

I have a 14" bumper pull, my next will be a GN triple 7 dump, but I don't expect to need to mess with the CDL crap or combined registration. I'm in an area that doesn't mess with you, and I don't see me needing to leave my area. I think a lot of the determination depends on where you live and how the police do or don't look for that stuff.

Yep, the law pretty much leaves privateers alone here as long as nothing looks ridiculous.

 

[LD1]

Yep, the law pretty much leaves privateers alone here as long as nothing looks ridiculous.

Same in my area of central ohio. I worry the day it changes. I cannot even tow a 14k trailer with my dually without going over 26k. But anyone and everyone with the exact same truck minus two wheels are perfectly "legal". Never mind if I want to tow my dual tandem GN 25' trailer. Just blows my mind how "legally" you are to be held to the same standard as OTR tractor/trailer drivers in a big semi and 53' trailer.

 

[4570Man]

Same in my area of central ohio. I worry the day it changes. I cannot even tow a 14k trailer with my dually without going over 26k. But anyone and everyone with the exact same truck minus two wheels are perfectly "legal". Never mind if I want to tow my dual tandem GN 25' trailer. Just blows my mind how "legally" you are to be held to the same standard as OTR tractor/trailer drivers in a big semi and 53' trailer.

I guess I’ll have to get a CDL someday but around here you can tow whatever you want and drive whatever you want. There’s probably more drivers in tandem dump trucks that don’t have proper license and tags than do.

 

[ning]

#2....really uncommon. Hitch adds extra cost....and is a PITA if you arent already a camper person. Hogs up bed space. Cannot just unhook and have an empty bed. Gotta pull the heavy hitch out....and still have the rails. I have had two extended cab dodge trucks....both I could see the GN ball from the drivers seat. Simple to hook up. And if not....a $50 Chinese backup cam is less hassle and cheaper than dealing with a 5th wheel hitch. Just my 2 cents

I had a 5th wheel in the '90s; the hitch came out of the bed of the truck by removing a few pins, leaving two rails in the bed that stuck up just over half an inch. It's not gooseneck hide-a-hitch but it's close.

Still I don't think it's necessary, just clarifying...

 

[Jackstack76]

Did you see the 8kaxles/big brakes/17.5 wheels & tires and 6”hoist on that trailer? And a 7ga floor, too.
I don’t think a 14k is in the same league, but if you don’t need that heavy built of a trailer, I understand
I was under the impression you wanted a 16’, 16k and would love to break your bank account, so I figured WTH, right? Its built like a tank, though, so yeah>more $

Was more so leaning towards a 16k trailer just because. In regards to the length I think the 14 foot might be the happy medium.

 

[4570Man]

Was more so leaning towards a 16k trailer just because. In regards to the length I think the 14 foot might be the happy medium.

I have a 16k mostly because the price was right. I didn’t need the payload but I do like the 17.5 tires vs the 16s on a 14k.

 

[Hay Dude]

After you do enough decades of hauling with trailers, you realize there’s so many different theories and strategies. Enough to make you crazy.
If you tend to be subject to overloading-carrying more random weight cargo, like wet/dry hay or wet/dry dirt, I would suggest a heavier built trailer. That way if you overload it here & there, it won’t break. Opting for 17.5k wheels/tires and 8k axles instead of 7k axles and 16” wheels/tires makes sense on a 16k trailer. Even though 7ks are enough (2k tongue weight) the heavier axles & wheel/tires give you a “margin of error” that the 7ks and the 16” wheel/tire doesn’t have as much of.

If you are carrying the same load almost every time, like a 11,000lb tractor for example, then you are fine with a 16k trailer with 7k axles and basic tires & wheels. But if you are hauling all sorts of different random loads, opt for the heavier running gear.

Even though the 16k trailer with 7k‘s and 16” wheel/tire actually has a few hundred more lbs payload than the 16k trailer with 8ks and 17.5” wheel/tire, the latter will hold up better to an overloading situation and hold up better in severe use in fields, rougher use and the running gear should hold up longer.

 

[bdog]

View attachment 695691

Scratch those tasks, I don’t leave PA, was correct before.

That is pretty wild. Per your link it is obviously a PA intrastate thing. I am not aware of any other state in the nation that has that number as a threshold.

 

[Jackstack76]

Guess I'll throw my .02 cents worth in here.

#1 IIRC, a CDL is required if the GCWR is 26001 and over. I had a 2004 Dodge 3500 quad cab dually that had a GVW of 13500# and a 25' gooseneck flatbed with a GVW of 14000#. Even though I was not commercial, I would still had to have a CDL since my "total" GCVW was 27500#.

#2 If you go with a GN, consider having a fifth wheel pin installed on the trailer and using a 5th wheel RV style hitch. It is a lot easier to back into a 5th wheel than trying to line up to a ball in the bed that you can't see. Keep in mind that a large number of the 5th wheel style RV trailers have GVW's that are or exceed 18000#, so the hitch capacity won't be an issue.

Seems the fifth wheel would complicate things, I have no desire to own a fifth wheel camper to be honest so the versatility isn’t there for me. Plus they’re using a 24k plus bulldog coupler on the gooseneck so I think it will have more than enough rating.

 

[Jackstack76]

Almost all newer trucks now have factory 5th wheel/ GN prep with added cameras in the third brake light to see the GN ball. I back up to my GN alone in one attempt every time using the factory camera.

I have a 14" bumper pull, my next will be a GN triple 7 dump, but I don't expect to need to mess with the CDL crap or combined registration. I'm in an area that doesn't mess with you, and I don't see me needing to leave my area. I think a lot of the determination depends on where you live and how the police do or don't look for that stuff.

Was looking at the frame of my truck last night and there’s threaded holes, I’m assuming that’s for the gooseneck hitch. So hopefully it would be a fairy easy install. I was looking at the B&W ones.

 

[Jackstack76]

I have a 16k mostly because the price was right. I didn’t need the payload but I do like the 17.5 tires vs the 16s on a 14k.

Well I’ve also got to consider tire replacement costs. Those G rated tires cost enough it seems, haven’t looked but I bet those 17.5’s are getting up there.

 

[Jackstack76]

After you do enough decades of hauling with trailers, you realize there’s so many different theories and strategies. Enough to make you crazy.
If you tend to be subject to overloading-carrying more random weight cargo, like wet/dry hay or wet/dry dirt, I would suggest a heavier built trailer. That way if you overload it here & there, it won’t break. Opting for 17.5k wheels/tires and 8k axles instead of 7k axles and 16” wheels/tires makes sense on a 16k trailer. Even though 7ks are enough (2k tongue weight) the heavier axles & wheel/tires give you a “margin of error” that the 7ks and the 16” wheel/tire doesn’t have as much of.

If you are carrying the same load almost every time, like a 11,000lb tractor for example, then you are fine with a 16k trailer with 7k axles and basic tires & wheels. But if you are hauling all sorts of different random loads, opt for the heavier running gear.

Even though the 16k trailer with 7k‘s and 16” wheel/tire actually has a few hundred more lbs payload than the 16k trailer with 8ks and 17.5” wheel/tire, the latter will hold up better to an overloading situation and hold up better in severe use in fields, rougher use and the running gear should hold up longer.

Well I know they will build me one with the 8k axels and g rated rubber on a 14 footer. I think to go to the 16k and 17.5’s you have to go to the 16 footer and spread axel they offer.

 

[nisaacs]

Company up in Iowa right by the northwest Missouri border. Owner is the one that originally started H&H back in the 90’s.

https://www.pullhp.com/site/e426b0709e874e45802b51bac54e6ad5/default?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pullhp.com%2FGooseneck_Dump_Boxes.html#2810

The link don't work for me so I did a search and found their web site. They have a lot of good info, yet some of the important stuff is lacking. Overall they appear to be a fine trailer. Only 20" sides standard, $70 per foot for 24". The sides would concern me, no side stiffeners in uprights or horizontal, just the top rail. I wonder about the axles, generally if name brand is used, they say so, it is not posted.

Do your research, read the fine print and look at other manufactures, they are not all created equal. Add up your options, tarp kit is a must. Couple pictures of the spread axle model.

This link might work: Equipment Utility Trailers For Sale | Pullhp.com

 

[Hay Dude]

Agree. That trailer looks light-built, but maybe it’s a 10k dump. Agree the sides look flimsy. Cant tell how heavy the hoist is. Dump angle looks good.

 

[Jackstack76]

The link don't work for me so I did a search and found their web site. They have a lot of good info, yet some of the important stuff is lacking. Overall they appear to be a fine trailer. Only 20" sides standard, $70 per foot for 24". The sides would concern me, no side stiffeners in uprights or horizontal, just the top rail. I wonder about the axles, generally if name brand is used, they say so, it is not posted.

Do your research, read the fine print and look at other manufactures, they are not all created equal. Add up your options, tarp kit is a must. Couple pictures of the spread axle model.

This link might work: Equipment Utility Trailers For Sale | Pullhp.com

View attachment 696130View attachment 696131

I’ve looked at all kinds of brands now till I’m blue in the face. I’m around a lot of construction jobs for work and see various brands. Mainly big tex, I’ve seen a PJ or two, H&H and some load trails and one Diamond C. I also looked out the HP’s when I bought my my other trailer from there. The Big Tex’s look cheap and cheaply built imo. The load trails I’ve seen look pretty solid but they sit high. I’ve called a local dealer about a PJ and they want a arm and a leg for one of he could even get one right now.
Its a tough choice since it’s not a cheap purchase.

 

[LD1]

Got to work today and looked at one of our older (maybe 8-10 year old) griffin dump trailers and reminded me of something.

Look at the ramp capacity for loading equipment. There is a sticker on the back that specifically says "maximum equipment load for ramps 5000#"

Whats the point of having a 14k dump trailer if you can only load a piece of equipment on it at half its rated capacity?

Im not sure why this is....but I have a theory. The ramps are plenty heavy.....but it has to do with how the ramps attach. On the griffin, they only hang on the swinging gate. Which is only like 1-1/2 or 2" square tube. Before my time.....they had attempted to load a 8800# skidloader on this trailer and bent it down. Their fix was to just weld it solid to the trailer because they never had plans on using it to tail-gate spread anyway.

My suretrac trailer has no limitations. I think because the ramps are supported by the trailer itself rather than just the hinged gate. I have loaded my 8000# mini on it and nothing bent.

So if you plan on hauling equipment.....dont get a trailer that has reduced ramp capacity because they decided to support them only with the swinging tailgate part.

 

[Hay Dude]

Id say buy a trailer according to its use and duty cycle.
If its light duty use and/or infrequent duty cycle use, then buy a light duty trailer.

That way you aren't wasting money on buying extra steel and running gear you don't need.

If its heavy duty use and/or frequent duty cycle use, then buy a heavy duty trailer.

 

[Jackstack76]

Well one more thought, what if you wanted to mount a leaf vacuum on one of these? I assume it would be a lot harder on a gooseneck. I’ve seen some mounted and hanging off the back but don’t really dig that idea.

 

[Hay Dude]

The non-reinforced sides will be ok (somewhat hesitant in saying that) as long as you dont have one side down, one side up and you are off-loading material from the down side. You might push material into up side and bend it. Or if you are loading heavy materials like irregular shaped logs. Once they are bent, thats a bad day. It would be ok for mulch, stone, most construction debris.
Although the Lamar trailer I posted is pricey, its built like a tank. The 14k model is built pretty nice, too.

Youll get what you pay for in most cases.