My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

Some more updates (now with over 300hrs)...

Talked some more with the dealer about the door. He's (sales guy- service guy is worthless to talk to) fairly convinced that there's an issue and is talking about a new door. I'd like for a Kioti rep to try and diagnose with us before leaping on this. I have loosened the top hinge, sticking in a loose-fitting screw driver, and pulled the lower hinge and STILL the top part of the door wants to hit before that bottom part does. It really does appear that the glass is just plain warped/twisted: either that or the cab frame is messed up! (not something to rule out given the screw-up on the loader- loader mis-welded AND, what the dealer mentioned (though I don't see it written anywhere), new "saddles" (where loader attaches back at the frame/cab) installed (I really cannot figure out how this was done as I see no signs of disturbance; but, to be frank, I haven't really bothered to look closely [the entire episode still sticks in my caw as the loader is still cockeyed and the stupid service manager just rolls his eyes at me).

I just noticed what I think is another leak at the rear axle, only this is on the OTHER side from the one that had been leaking previously. The dealer had resealed BOTH axles (even though this currently suspected leaking one wasn't previously leaking): of course, this work was done by the eyes-rolling service manager (who is batting about zero on first-time repairs [and I'm batting 100% on my claims]). Might be an opportunity to get the tractor to them so they can also see for themselves how messed up the cab door is.

After having run some tanks of fuel through following the fuel cap replacement I drained the fuel filter and found a small amount of water- not much. I'm still leaving this issue as being somewhat open: seems a lot better, but will monitor more.

In another thread I noted that one of my joystick control cables broke (loader curl; I replaced it). Seems to be poor design as there are more and more reports now of this happening to others.

Most stuff is somewhat only in the annoyance category but I want them to be acknowledged by the dealer as/for feedback to Kioti. The sales guy seems receptive to this concept; the service manager could care less (he'd just as soon as no one bothered him- the guy really needs to either act like a professional or get out of the business!).

 

[JimR]

DieselBound, I was fortunate enough to be able to weld my broken curl cable. So far it has worked out fine. Mine broke right below the jam nut. I did buy a spare set. Both cables were dry when I took them out. This may just be the problem with the cables, lack of lubrication on install.

 

[DieselBound]

Jim, you've given me another reason to look to step up in the acquisition of a welder! (not sure how you got enough room to get a weld on that cable end, perhaps taking up more thread on the other end?)

Lube can't hurt. I need to open up to readjust my cable (I was too hasty and didn't check movement/operation before buttoning things up and the lever runs way to the right such that when curling the bucket the handle is right next to the door handrail), so perhaps I can get some lube on them then.

 

[DieselBound]

A while back (somewhere around 300 hrs- now at 326 hrs) I noticed that the left rear axle appeared to be leaking: I have a leaking hydraulic top link cylinder that I have been battling for a long time and it's leaking makes it tougher to identify the axle leak). The dealer had resealed both sides after the right side was found to be leaking. I'll be looking to haul the tractor in. Really hope they don't try and give me a run-around. Sadly, this has been the pattern thus far- they cannot seem to rectify issues on the first go-round. Will also be having them check out the issue with the door: they've been well briefed on this.

 

[JimR]

Jim, you've given me another reason to look to step up in the acquisition of a welder! (not sure how you got enough room to get a weld on that cable end, perhaps taking up more thread on the other end?)

Lube can't hurt. I need to open up to readjust my cable (I was too hasty and didn't check movement/operation before buttoning things up and the lever runs way to the right such that when curling the bucket the handle is right next to the door handrail), so perhaps I can get some lube on them then.

My cable broke off just under the jam nut. I beveled the cable end and welded it right back to where it broke off and to the jam nut. The cable can be adjusted by the outside sleeve after that. I used gear oil to lube my cable. I think it will last the longest. Too bad the inner cable can't be removed from the casing. You could grease it up with a Lithium grease if it was removable.. Now about my welder. I have a Lincoln 175 Plus mig-welder. I previously had a Lincoln 100 and a Lincoln 140 mig-welder. The 175 Plus does everything that I need to weld. In a real tough case I do have a 225 amp stick welder that I haven't used in well over 15 years. I use solid core welding wire only with an Argon/CO2 mix for gas. I rarely if ever use a flux core wire and can't remember the last time that I did.

 

[DieselBound]

Got my tractor back.

Dealer replaced both of the outer axle housings. Lots of sealer showing: hope that there wasn't excess inside.

They replaced the cab door. I don't get a good feeling for what was actually to blame. I was told that the latch (on the door) was adjusted and that made it shut OK: when I tried finding out more from them on this it sounded like it was only readily latching on the first engagement point but not on the second- this was, essentially, my original complaint. They said that they decided to replace the door "anyway." Huh? If they thought it was fixed then why did they go ahead and install a new door? I told all this story to my heavy equipment rental guy (who is a crack mechanic) and he rolled his eyes and said: "Yeah, whatever!" His BS detector fully functional... BUT, the bottom line is that the door is closing fully and easily. It's amazing how much better it makes things feel.

Life was once again back on track. And then...

I was out cleaning up after some excavator work, kind of passing time waiting for the weather to warm up so I could do some painting, I got the grapple stuck with the loader tilted fully and broke one of the tilt cylinder rods. After about 1,500 hours operating tractors I managed to really break something. I created a separate thread to discuss repairs. Dealer shows part numbers for every part of the cylinders, meaning that I should be able to repair this one (IF it's repairable). I'm waiting to hear back on a price for an entire cylinder to weigh my options.

 

[Threepoint]

Hey Diesel, congratulations on finally getting your door issue resolved! :thumbsup:

Sorry to hear about the tilt cylinder. I look forward to your next update.

BTW, when you started this thread over two years ago, we joked about it eventually turning into an epic thread like Eric's "My NX6010". You were skeptical at the time, but by golly, I think it's happened. :laughing:

 

[DieselBound]

Well, I'm still in the little leagues compared to Eric's thread (he's got a lot of great info).

 

[DieselBound]

Can't believe it's been over 1 1/2 years since I posted to my thread!

Tractor has over 535 hrs on it now. Since swapping the fuel cap I've had ZERO water issues in the fuel. Discovered that the loader arm issue appears to be slightly exaggerated because the front brush bar is slightly askew: I'd have to pull that bar and oval out the bolt holes to get it to square up- not feeling like it's worth the work at this time. The replacement door has been great- continuing to close well. I managed to bend the step on the right side of the cab- ugh! Going to leave it like this for now as I'm not sure if I can bend it back in shape w/o a lot of cussing: don't use it very often, only in emergency situations :laughing: Totally operator error. Folks may have spotted my posting of battling rodents in the top of the cab, saw that, as I'd KNEW was going to happen, I had a big battle with the RTV hack job the dealer did to seal the cab top (I figure this took 8hrs of my life!).

I'd have to say that the tractor is pretty much settled down and being 100% reliable and totally capable of doing everything I ask of it. Funny how it's not stating to feel like an appendage, like my Kubota B7800 came to be: I can just tell by feel how to navigate- it's all second nature now.

Shifting into "M" still sucks. I've found, however, that having the engine RPMs around 1,600 seems to help. I'd already noted that if you work the steering wheel a little bit that that can also help. Stabbing at the travel pedals will also help, but that always seems to take more time than I'd like.

Mowing in a cab is SO much nicer! I spend a little time on the B7800 mowing some areas that are too soft to mow with the NX (early), which is all I need to remind me of this: but, I will still never get rid of the Kubota.

 

[DieselBound]

Hey Diesel, congratulations on finally getting your door issue resolved!

Sorry to hear about the tilt cylinder. I look forward to your next update.

BTW, when you started this thread over two years ago, we joked about it eventually turning into an epic thread like Eric's "My NX6010". You were skeptical at the time, but by golly, I think it's happened.

"Funny" story concerning the door...

After all that hassle I managed to BUST the darn thing! Did, of course, something stupid (no need to expound on) and ended up having it explode on me: it's amazing how many pieces are in one of these doors! (picking it out of dirt and from around tree roots- I tried to remove all traces of the crime! I figured it was like writing "I will not operate tractor with door open" a thousand times on the blackboard

Happy to report that the new door (glass) works perfectly well.