Mowing Rear Grooming Mower VS. MMM

[robertm]

I’ve all but exhausted my interest in the drive-over deck for my BX2570. It’s a major PITA that will not allow removal or installation like the standard deck, and despite how easy it looks to remove and reinstall, I most always have issues. So, I’m wondering how much difference I’d find with a rear-mount mower over the MMM.
I have no concern with the mower dragging behind. It will be easy to remove and reinstall, but will also take up more floor space and would be useless with my bagger.
The only other option is trading out my drive-over for a standard deck, but it seems everyone has the same idea, as used drive-over decks are a dime a dozen.
How bad of cut quality is the rear mower over the MMM?

 

[jeff9366]

Maneuverability is less with a TPH mower.

VIDEO: Comparing Finish Mowers (midmount VS 3-point) - Kubota B26?1 - YouTube

 

[mikester]

Cut quality also depends on mower design which is affected by your terrain. I'd look for a finishing mower deck with large run flat ties on all four corners so the deck can float on the ground. I find that gives the most uniform cut. So decks are suspended from the tractor side and have only rear wheels - On hilly terrain you get less uniform transitions when the slope changes.

I've had good luck with my landpride 3ph finishing mower and would buy one again. Still working after 30 years...I use it for rough cut in the back forty these days and a ZTR on the lawns.

 

[Diggin It]

I can't imagine you'd gain anything with an MMM over a drive over. They're basically the same thing with a different mounting system. Mine isn't difficult to mount/dismount, but it isn't exactly easy either. My issue with a rear mower is getting around and near things and my hills.

I guess it's all about your mowing area.

 

[Paystar]

Why are so many people having trouble with their drive over decks? I thought mine is the greatest thing ever. Doesn't get any easier than that. A handle at the front, two spring pins on each side and reach under and grab the PTRO shaft. How can it get any easier?
To hook up, I drive over and it lines itself up.

 

[Paystar]

Wait, scratch that. I just a read a thread where someone complained it was a real pain to have to use their hydraulic top link to adjust the angle of their implement.

So I can see how getting out of your seat and bending over can be a real task. LOL

 

[RickB]

Telepathic Implement Control is coming. But then you have to think about it.

 

[robertm]

Why are so many people having trouble with their drive over decks? I thought mine is the greatest thing ever. Doesn't get any easier than that. A handle at the front, two spring pins on each side and reach under and grab the PTRO shaft. How can it get any easier?
To hook up, I drive over and it lines itself up.

What is your drive-over deck on? I suspect it’s not on a BX because the way you describe your disconnect is nothing like the BX. There is no handle at the front and you don’t need reach under and touch the PTO shaft.
The good old-fashioned way of dragging it in and out from under the tractor on wheeled cup casters is more guaranteed than the drive over. If the DO isn’t sliding on the barn floor or rubber mat, the ramps are digging into the soil and twisting. Taking it off this fall, I actually sheared one of the spring plates under the ramp. It’s just a horse shoot design. The DO on my last B2620 was great.

 

[SDT]

Why are so many people having trouble with their drive over decks? I thought mine is the greatest thing ever. Doesn't get any easier than that. A handle at the front, two spring pins on each side and reach under and grab the PTRO shaft. How can it get any easier?
To hook up, I drive over and it lines itself up.

I believe that the OP is referring to the so-called auto connect drive-over deck.

My dealer no longer sells them unless the customer insists.

SDT

 

[robertm]

Wait, scratch that. I just a read a thread where someone complained it was a real pain to have to use their hydraulic top link to adjust the angle of their implement.

So I can see how getting out of your seat and bending over can be a real task. LOL

And, brush up on your reading skills. I never said I didn’t want to get out of the seat. I’d rather the work in putting on the standard deck than the modern convenience of a drive over deck on the BX. Clearly, you have no idea what you are talking about regarding the BX.

 

[diesel85]

I don't like the cut quality from my MMM. I tried blades, mulching kits, etc, and I don't like the cut quality.

Yet if I put on my neighbor's Kingkutter it does a fantastic job.

My lawn isn't flat, it's 100% bumps. So I think that is the reason why.

 

[Paystar]

Hahahaha....got your panties in a bunch eh robertm? Maybe YOU should brush up on YOUR reading skills because I did NOT imply it was YOU that didn't want to get out of his seat. LOL

BTW, I have a B2620 and a BX2680 here. Maybe I can't read but I can take the decks on and off both of them easily. LOL

 

[Modeere318]

Why do you have to get out of your seat to adjust a hydraulic top link?

 

[WilliamBos]

We have a 60" MF RF500 with floating hitch, and just bought a Big Dog Alpha MP 54". The cut quality on both are impressive, the key is keeping blades sharp. Also avoid the el cheapo blades, really makes a difference.

 

[robertm]

Hahahaha....got your panties in a bunch eh robertm? Maybe YOU should brush up on YOUR reading skills because I did NOT imply it was YOU that didn't want to get out of his seat. LOL

BTW, I have a B2620 and a BX2680 here. Maybe I can't read but I can take the decks on and off both of them easily. LOL

Yeah, my panties were in a wad. Sorry. I grabbed a crochet hook and pulled them out. I was just dealing with my lovely fuel filter gelling up even though I have plenty of anti-gel in the fuel. Another crappy BX design in my book. What’s worse is I bought the fuel bowl mod kit, but never got it on before winter. High today was 3.
In the end, for the deck, I just need to sit down, or lay down under my tractor and study the mechanics of the drive-over. As you know, the B-Series drive-over is way more simplistic and uncomplicated. I think there just had to be something that needs tweaking on mine. I figure now I’m going to drill holes in my barn floor to drop pins in to hold the deck from moving when I mount or dismount the mower. That should help.
Glad your not having issues. I know several people with BX drive over decks that just have no use for them. I’ve mowed a lot of grass with this one, and it just seems to always need adjusting. I guess I’ll study it in spring when it goes back on.

 

[Paystar]

No problem robertm. Guess we were both in a mood, LOL

I didn't mean to offend you. I've just been seeing several posts on a couple different forums of people saying their drive over decks are hard to use and I can't understand why? Maybe not set up properly from dealer? I don't even have to try and line mine up. They go right on and off.
I sure like it a lot more than having to pull them in and out the side like I used to have to do on my old tractors.

It was usually always the Deere's that I saw people having issues with the auto connect not working. I hadn't really heard of issues with the Kubota.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

We have a 60" MF RF500 with floating hitch, and just bought a Big Dog Alpha MP 54". The cut quality on both are impressive, the key is keeping blades sharp. Also avoid the el cheapo blades, really makes a difference.

This is exactly why I left the rotary mower world and went to the flail mower world. I ran rotary mowers/zero turn mowers for years and the blades just got eaten up on my property. I laugh now whenever I hear someone say that flail mowers are more maintenance then a rotary mower. That could not be more false. Rotary mowers are the most time consuming and expensive grass cutter out there. If you do an ROI on a rotary mower compared to a flail mower the flail mower wins hands down. The biggest misconception out there is a flail mower is more expensive. Maybe true in upfront cost but not in long run cost.

 

[Cahaba Valley Farm]

Yeah, my panties were in a wad. Sorry. I grabbed a crochet hook and pulled them out. I was just dealing with my lovely fuel filter gelling up even though I have plenty of anti-gel in the fuel. Another crappy BX design in my book. What’s worse is I bought the fuel bowl mod kit, but never got it on before winter. High today was 3.
In the end, for the deck, I just need to sit down, or lay down under my tractor and study the mechanics of the drive-over. As you know, the B-Series drive-over is way more simplistic and uncomplicated. I think there just had to be something that needs tweaking on mine. I figure now I’m going to drill holes in my barn floor to drop pins in to hold the deck from moving when I mount or dismount the mower. That should help.
Glad your not having issues. I know several people with BX drive over decks that just have no use for them. I’ve mowed a lot of grass with this one, and it just seems to always need adjusting. I guess I’ll study it in spring when it goes back on.

From all the research that I have done on Kubota their BX series tractors seem to be the most problematic. Would you agree with this or not?

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

From all the research that I have done on Kubota their BX series tractors seem to be the most problematic. Would you agree with this or not?

Not....

 

[Smokeydog]

The 3pt Woods finish mower does extreme service every year for over twenty years. Leaves a nice cut on the lawn. One belt, bunches of blades and regular service. Trims close that we don’t have to weed eater much. Nice to be able to back under overhangs or ditches you couldn’t reach with a mmm.

Do like the rear discharge.

If you use your tractor for other stuff the mmm is in the way particularly in the woods.

Only problem is with two major brands of finish mowers is the wheel caster axle stems bending with the power and sharp turning radius of the B20 and B26 tractors. Loaders do not detach and rear tires are filled. After many attempts to repair finally found a permanent fix by replacing stems with trailer axles and bearings.

Less to grease, stronger and cheaper than OEM replacement parts. Trouble free for many seasons.