Log arch, need some suggestions
- Thread starter rbstern
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davedj1
Veteran Member
Beautiful!
sleepydeere
Bronze Member
It is looking good I have used amc older ones they have bolt on hubs on the front end and you can go from 12'' to 15'' tires on them also house trailer axles are good the ones with out brakes they have 14.5 tires and are very strong and they are 6000 pound axles
sleepydeere
Bronze Member
that company built Quality I had a 6'S/O 6' scraper blade it was built like a tank
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Got the assembly finished, hubs and wheels mounted. Hooked it up to the golf cart hitch. Towed and maneuvered great. The walking beams and dual wheels per side really tame the towing behavior, making it very easy to control, even in reverse.
First thing this morning, tried it with a 12' pine log, about 1' diameter, maybe 400 to 500 lbs.
Big time failure. The 1/4" flange (previously the pivot for the scoop dirt bucket) where I mounted the walking beam axle (Cat 1 pin) wasn't up the challenge:
Was shocked it bent under this load. The pins and bushings were fine, as were the axle assemblies. Came to the realization that I needed a much more robust structure to mount the walking beam axle to. Decided to use the 2"x3" angle iron that had been the rear edge of the dirt scoop structure to make a box frame on both the left and right side of the arch. I cut away the damaged flanges, cut the angle iron to lengths, and ended up with this:
Lost a few inches of height (the flange had extended several inches below the frame angle iron), but gained some footprint width. After this mod, the same log was handled without issue:
Towed and maneuvered really well. Lifting went as expected. I need to add some type of inverted "V" structure below the front portion of the main tube, to keep the front of the log from swinging. I don't love the 1600lb winch I put on this. Couple of times, I felt like the gear pawl slipped out while I was lifting the log. That's a no-no. Might need to go with something higher quality, given the critical nature of that task.
So, a bit more tweaking, some further testing with heavier logs, and then paint.
First thing this morning, tried it with a 12' pine log, about 1' diameter, maybe 400 to 500 lbs.
Big time failure. The 1/4" flange (previously the pivot for the scoop dirt bucket) where I mounted the walking beam axle (Cat 1 pin) wasn't up the challenge:
Was shocked it bent under this load. The pins and bushings were fine, as were the axle assemblies. Came to the realization that I needed a much more robust structure to mount the walking beam axle to. Decided to use the 2"x3" angle iron that had been the rear edge of the dirt scoop structure to make a box frame on both the left and right side of the arch. I cut away the damaged flanges, cut the angle iron to lengths, and ended up with this:
Lost a few inches of height (the flange had extended several inches below the frame angle iron), but gained some footprint width. After this mod, the same log was handled without issue:
Towed and maneuvered really well. Lifting went as expected. I need to add some type of inverted "V" structure below the front portion of the main tube, to keep the front of the log from swinging. I don't love the 1600lb winch I put on this. Couple of times, I felt like the gear pawl slipped out while I was lifting the log. That's a no-no. Might need to go with something higher quality, given the critical nature of that task.
So, a bit more tweaking, some further testing with heavier logs, and then paint.
John_Mc
Elite Member
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With as much drop as you have on your walking beam assembly, you have created a large lever acting against the mounting point.
pmsmechanic
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My question is what happens when your front wheel drops into a rut and the whole axle flips over. It wouldn't be the end of the world but it would be some work to set everything right again. Maybe add a piece of chain or a peg so that the axle can only articulate so far.
Smokeydog
Elite Member
Having the walking pin supported both sides and under the frame would be stronger. Narrowing the width too.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Agreed. Just surprised at how "easy" it was to bend 3" wide piece of 1/4" steel.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
That would have to be a **** of a rut. The answer would be, drop /detach the log, lift up the arch (heavy, but not impossibly so) and rotate the wheels. Can't see that happening, but if it ever does, I'll add some type of travel limiter.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Yep. If I continue to have problems, that's probably the next approach. Narrower width isn't a benefit for my needs. Most important task with this will be backing the log over a sawmill bed and lowering it down onto the bed. The extra width helps with that task.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Project complete. I added a log retaining "V" up front, made from angle iron. Swapped out the conventional hand winch for the Harbor Freigh worm drive winch; it just feels safer, without a fussy ratchet pawl to depend on. Paint job is Rustoleum Apple Red, which went on very nicely.
Sawmill is nearly set up; it came a month early, which put me behind the eight ball a bit. Now that the log arch is complete, once I get the sawmill operating, I'll add some pictures of this thing in use with that setup. Fingers crossed it works as intended.
Thanks, all, for the helpful comments. Had a great time building this, looking forward to my next DIY, whatever it may be.
Sawmill is nearly set up; it came a month early, which put me behind the eight ball a bit. Now that the log arch is complete, once I get the sawmill operating, I'll add some pictures of this thing in use with that setup. Fingers crossed it works as intended.
Thanks, all, for the helpful comments. Had a great time building this, looking forward to my next DIY, whatever it may be.
CoyPatton
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It looks like a nice build/project. I wonder if it would be beneficial to add some chain and notched metal near the wheeled area of the build. This would remove strain from the winch during transport.
I also wonder if it would be helpful to run some pulleys to be able to use the winch to lift (and lower) the logs at the front of the rig. Just me thinking of saving some strain on my back.
I also wonder if it would be helpful to run some pulleys to be able to use the winch to lift (and lower) the logs at the front of the rig. Just me thinking of saving some strain on my back.
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Thanks for the suggestions, Coy.
More chain wouldn't hurt. Don't yet have a sense of how this winch will do, durability wise. As far as another winch: If positioned correctly over the log (balance of log weight to the rear of the winch), the winch picks up the front of the log first, until it hits the "V" near the front of the implement, then continues to pick up the logl; the front of the log has no place to go, so the rear comes up. This keeps the weight of the log on the arch section of the implement, where it is strongest.
More chain wouldn't hurt. Don't yet have a sense of how this winch will do, durability wise. As far as another winch: If positioned correctly over the log (balance of log weight to the rear of the winch), the winch picks up the front of the log first, until it hits the "V" near the front of the implement, then continues to pick up the logl; the front of the log has no place to go, so the rear comes up. This keeps the weight of the log on the arch section of the implement, where it is strongest.
jmc
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Nice job. Enjoyed following this project and hope you update it with some "action" pictures.
If the center of gravity for the fully loaded trailer is behind the walking beam pivots, won't that lift the 3PH? (Assuming you pull it with the 3PH)
If the center of gravity for the fully loaded trailer is behind the walking beam pivots, won't that lift the 3PH? (Assuming you pull it with the 3PH)
OP
rbstern
Platinum Member
Thank you. I pulled it with a golf cart today for my log-to-sawed-boards test. It does put some upward pressure on the hitch, but not a lot. We'll see what happens with heavier logs.
My test log has now been milled into boards. Everything worked as expected. Was an easy process to put the log on the saw track. Also, can't say enough good things about Woodland Mills' product. Really first rate build quality. Was a pleasure to put together.
CoyPatton
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From looking at your picture and reading that it puts some upward pressure on your golf cart, if you attach it to your tractor 3PH with a trailer mover setup, rig up some strapping/chains or something to limit the upward movement of the 3PH as it will present less resistance to upward pressure than your golf cart. The closer to the end of the lift arms that you can attach to, the more leverage you will have against upward travel. I see attached chain to the pin (may need a longer pin at the end of the lift arm) and a point such as the sway chain point on the tractor end. If using chain a very slight amount of play would allow a bit of upward movement but establish a limit quick.
You may by looking at your tractor find a different simpler means of limiting travel which is the benefit of be able to actually see it all in real life!
