Ideas to remove sheared bolt?

[two_bit_score]

A bit of a (meandering) update.

I've hit it with a center punch to attempt to start a dimple..... the punch got blunt on me.

I've tried to drill on it.... perhaps I'm expecting too much too soon.... but the bit didn't scratch the "bolt"

I've banged on it with a chisel to try to budge it. After all, I KNOW it's not in much of a tension mode since it simply tightens into the pin.

I've heated around it (only have MAP gas)

I said I've sprayed it with Penetreat.... I got that screwed up. I sprayed my LOGS on my home with Penetreat..... I used PB Blaster on this.

Oh, and I like the ice idea! I have tried heating around it and then squirting PB Blaster directly on the bolt hoping that would do what (I think) your suggesting the ice to do.


I don't have the fix kit yet to rebuild the cylinder so I'm still on "down time" but right now, this thing is nothing more than a yard ornament in the front yard and you might imagine what the wife is starting to say.....

Also, things to do around here and I can really use the bucket.

I'm chasing my tail right now. Know a guy with a fabrication shop several miles down road. He said he could come by and do it.... then h as disappeared and I hear crickets.

My wife's brother has a welder AND he's coming here (from New Orleans).... I thought this weekend but it might not be for two more weeks.


So I debate all that verses just buying something and moving on. I found a stick welder but I concluded it wanted to be plugged into a 50 amp circuit. I don't have one of those and am unsure the issues of putting it into say a 30 or 40 (I have several open slots in my garage and can add one quite easily, in fact, I probably already have some breakers laying around)

Got to thinking just this morning..... can I go RENT one!!?? Then I again, chase my tail.... money to rent verses a bit more to just buy.....



If I don't get something done soon, this might turn into the Pallets in the Field thread.....

If you have your BIL coming just call and ask him what kind of welder he wants to use when he gets there. Then get one. Probably a 110 Mig I would think.

In the mean time work on cutting that slot and trying to work it out.

Good Luck. Sounds like a really aggravating problem.

 

[Richard]

Nope. I think he's running 110V.

You are correct but I suppose I was wordy enough that someone might think I was going full strength.

 

[Richard]

If you have your BIL coming just call and ask him what kind of welder he wants to use when he gets there. Then get one. Probably a 110 Mig I would think.

In the mean time work on cutting that slot and trying to work it out.

Good Luck. Sounds like a really aggravating problem.

Aggravating is a polite way of putting it. I looked for my impact screwdriver. Found it.... has a Phillips installed. Turned the place upside down to find the straight bit.... so far, no luck. I've not been into town for a week. I might buy more bits for it when I next go into town.....as doing that will allow me to find the straight bit in 43 nano-seconds.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have never tried it, but with a good high quality sharp bit, you might be able to hold a nut in the position with vice grips as a centering guide for a pilot bit.

 

[WranglerX]

If I understand you correctly you should be ok. You're basically running a black, white, and bare wire from the breaker panel with a 240 v double breaker to a 20 amp outlet as an extension cord.

I have a project coming up where there is no 240v outlet nearby, but the main breaker panel is close. When it's time, I'll pull the cover off the main breaker panel and put in (temporarily) a 240v breaker and attach the black, white & ground. Then wire the other end with the proper outlet so I can plug my welder into it. Essentially a 240 v extension cord that plugs into the main breaker panel. That means that the main breaker cover will be off while I do my welding. It's just me and my wife and she knows enough not to go poking around in the panel with the cover off. I would not do this if there was anyone else around unless I had someone I trusted to keep an eye on it.

Be careful here... I perceive the original intent was to make a 120V extension with #8 wire, and a 20 amp circuit, not sure how the 240V got into play here.... One should NEVER put 240 volt into a socket intended for 120V at 15 or 20 amp max....

Dale

 

[MossRoad]

...


I have a project coming up where there is no 240v outlet nearby, but the main breaker panel is close. When it's time, I'll pull the cover off the main breaker panel and put in (temporarily) a 240v breaker and attach the black, white & ground. Then wire the other end with the proper outlet so I can plug my welder into it. Essentially a 240 v extension cord that plugs into the main breaker panel. That means that the main breaker cover will be off while I do my welding. It's just me and my wife and she knows enough not to go poking around in the panel with the cover off. I would not do this if there was anyone else around unless I had someone I trusted to keep an eye on it.

Since you're going to be removing the box cover, and putting in a 240V breaker anyway, why don't you just spend $15 extra and put a box and 240V outlet right next to the breaker panel, and make a proper 240V extension cord?

Only reason not to would be if you don't have any spare slots.

 

[cqaigy2]

I have had a Hobart Handler for over 30 years and while it has been a good little welder my primary and the first one I reach for is my even older Lincoln cracker box AC only welder.
I did pickup a Miller AC/DC used last year I haven't even tried it yet.
I am well served with my old buzz box, especially on broken bolts were I can hold the nut in the ground clamp put it in position, reach in with the stinger and pour the heat into a quick weld, I run the amps up high and just do a series of quick welds with my standby rod 6011.

I've done exactly that with my Lincoln Tombstone and 6011.

 

[Richard]

Well... My brother in law just came by. You know, the one that was going to bring his (I think diesel) tow behind generator/welder???

Yep.... he didn't bring it. Also, he's leaving town for a week. He did say I can come and get it (which I'll try to do later today)

I've contacted my local machinest guy.... let him know I've got my monster extension cord....but will also have the stick welder....and would pay for his services rather than his services AND equipment, unless he felt more comfortable with his stuff (I don't really care who does what!!)

His cryptic comment back was "I know what to do....."

Well, does that mean, "I know what to do, and HERE is my idea......(drumroll)"

Or, is that a snippy "I know what to do, so keep your brother in law out of the conversation"


Sigh....

How many more pages before I compete with the stripped drain bolt or the pallets in the field??!! :devil:

 

[newbury]

Aggravating is a polite way of putting it. I looked for my impact screwdriver. Found it.... has a Phillips installed. Turned the place upside down to find the straight bit.... so far, no luck. I've not been into town for a week. I might buy more bits for it when I next go into town.....as doing that will allow me to find the straight bit in 43 nano-seconds.

I'm sure Amazon, Home Depot, etc. will deliver. I've gotten so if I NEED something I just order it online from my phone as soon as I know I need it. Going to town can be dangerous.

<snip>

How many more pages before I compete with the stripped drain bolt or the pallets in the field??!! :devil:

So you really don't need the equipment?
Heck, this is only page 2 post #69.
/edit - I've got big pages

 

[California]

O the drama!

 

[zzvyb6]

I suggest you luanch the tractor into orbit. The cold of space will shrink the broken bolt stub so that it can be removed by hand (wear special gloves with oxygen supply). No need to waste valuable time looking for a Vice Grips (although they might have a spare pair on the International Space Station.

Get the welder crowd back to waxing their exhaust manifolds, FHS. Seem to be nut jobs, eh ? What size nut (English or metric, hex or square, chrome plated or untreated) ?

 

[LouNY]

I suggest you luanch the tractor into orbit. The cold of space will shrink the broken bolt stub so that it can be removed by hand (wear special gloves with oxygen supply). No need to waste valuable time looking for a Vice Grips (although they might have a spare pair on the International Space Station.

Get the welder crowd back to waxing their exhaust manifolds, FHS. Seem to be nut jobs, eh ? What size nut (English or metric, hex or square, chrome plated or untreated) ?

What ever I find in my used not quite junk bolt bucket that fits.

 

[Richard]

Hope you're not asking me what size.... First, It's going to be metric. The sheared bolt itself appears to be about 1/4, maybe slightly larger on the shaft.

The OTHER end of the cylinder has the same pin and bolt system to attach.....so I have a perfectly sized bolt that I can sacrafice. All I'd need to do is take the threaded rod (for the OTHER end that is intact) to store to get a nut for it.

Got to brother in laws....brought home a "Miller Big Blue 400". On its own trailer, diesel engine... my other guy has been sending me a text saying he needs to get here to assess the situation (yes!)...

So again, one way or another something is going to happen. I'll happily buy a welding helmet if that's what it takes. I've got some other things I could practice on (if I end up doing something.....I am after all.....kind of stubborn)

If my guy comes, then the sooner the better! I don't yet have the rebuild kit for the cylinder so I'm not losing any time that would not otherwise be lost so I'm still pretty patient about it.

Heck, maybe we'll all have another several days we can yack about this while the ball sits in place... (sigh).

Lest anyone become concerned about the loader bucket hanging in the air while this is being worked on... it's not. You can see the large rock I placed there as my support for it.

 

[Richard]

Hope you're not asking me what size.... First, It's going to be metric. The sheared bolt itself appears to be about 1/4, maybe slightly larger on the shaft.

The OTHER end of the cylinder has the same pin and bolt system to attach.....so I have a perfectly sized bolt that I can sacrafice. All I'd need to do is take the threaded rod (for the OTHER end that is intact) to store to get a nut for it.

Got to brother in laws....brought home a "Miller Big Blue 400". On its own trailer, diesel engine... my other guy has been sending me a text saying he needs to get here to assess the situation (yes!)...

So again, one way or another something is going to happen. I'll happily buy a welding helmet if that's what it takes. I've got some other things I could practice on (if I end up doing something.....I am after all.....kind of stubborn)

If my guy comes, then the sooner the better! I don't yet have the rebuild kit for the cylinder so I'm not losing any time that would not otherwise be lost so I'm still pretty patient about it.

Heck, maybe we'll all have another several days we can yack about this while the ball sits in place... (sigh).

 

[Richard]

Strange... I posted, saw the post and pictures. Clicked on a picture and the first one is sideways. During process of backing out, when I saw post, it had zero pictures......so.... added them. now what shows are two identical posts. I don't know this has ever happened to me on this site.

Sorry for duplication. I went to delete the content.... but the pictures wouldn't disappear... so just left it be.

Heck, if I can't handle a duplicate post, can I handle a welder on my own!!! HA!

 

[Jstpssng]

So you now have a welder on site... a broken tractor, which won't be fixed right off... now all that you need is some scrap steel and you can start practicing!

Trust me, you aren't the first, or even the 12th person to have a double post.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have been trying to get out a seized screw from a terminal strip. The issues are all quite the same. No big deal except the terminal block extends through a bulkhead so I can't just terminate the leads in the air and call it a day.

Tried heating with one of those two foot long 1950s soldering iron and fially just broke the head off. Actually managed to drill it out with a 1/4" Atlas-Copco air drill using a 1/32" bit, then larger. Quality drill bits are your friend but it took an hour to find one! Then had an industrial easy out for a one inch bolt but not a #8 screw!. Managed to retap the hole anyway. Ten minute job took a day!

I guess, my point is, you can HAVE a bunch of resources and still find yourself fighting a loosing battle. Hardly a WIN in the end if it took so much valuable time.

 

[Richard]

So you now have a welder on site... a broken tractor, which won't be fixed right off... now all that you need is some scrap steel and you can start practicing!

I've got the round "base" that a trailer hitch jack stand would mount to....and let you swivel the jack horizontal.....

My flexwing mower had one.....snapped off. I'm wondering if that might be a nice thing to play around with.

I don't have any steel "laying around".... wood yes, metal, nope.

So...question for those who know how to weld.... I'd imagine this welder, if it's the tool used, will use just about any rod that a home owner might need.....

What would be the best type & size to use for the nut/bolt? I think I understand that you can get them as small as 1/8th inch??? Would I be better off getting a thin one to try to weld around the inner circumference, or get a larger one so when it's put in the center and touches the bolt, it will blast about in a circular way?


Again, for total disclosure, I have never as much welded a gum wrapper and today is the longest I've ever even held the end of one or touched a machine..... I have probably 3 minutes total from putting it in the car, taking it out of car and mounting it to the machine so I know what to do.

Literally, zero experience which is why I first prefer my pal to get his hiney over here. This is one of those "I need a professional" and that, I ain't.

 

[Richard]

I mean what number stamped on the rod would be best for me to use? I know there's a numbering system but don't know anything about what it all means.

So, if someone could say "you need a 7042" for the bolt/nut.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I said it earlier. Not the project I would pick to learn to weld. Not sure why the thread turned to figuring out a way to power a welder. Kind of a moot point, if you ask me.

That technique takes some finese and experience. Welding the thing into a blob simply won't be very productive. Sorry to be blunt.

I also could be miles off base, but I would not attempt that with a stick welder. Well, maybe the bolt is big enough to work with a stick, but again, some experience would help.