Took Down Pole barn 48 by 90, Move it and rebuild to 48 by 88 for $1 SQ FT

[EddieWalker]

here is my floor plan layout

My living space will be 26 by 48. I am only planning one bedroom and one bathroom

View attachment 638212

with over 1,200 square feet of living space, I would seriously reconsider your floor plan. The amount of wasted space that you have in your drawing, along with so many odd sitting areas, doesn't make any sense. If this was just drawn for reference and doesn't have any relationship to what you are actually doing, ignore my comments, but as a builder/remodeler, you could create a very functional, livable home with that much space. I would have two bedrooms and two bathrooms for sure. A laundry room and tons of closets. That would be my priority, then a kitchen with plenty of storage and counter space.

My home was 1,000 square feet and I have 3 bedrooms and two bathrooms with my laundry in the hallway. I added on 240 square feet to create a massive master bathroom and walk in closet with the laundry in the master closet. At 1,200 square feet, I now have 3 bathrooms.

I also paid cash for my home and work on it when I have the time and money. I moved into it with one bedroom and bathroom done. I ate out of a microwave and a refrigerator in the garage.

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Eddie read the last post

 

[Michelle K linnane]

I want a big open area tired of having smaller rooms. Not worried about resale value tired of paying taxes for a bedroom that someone might use once a year. I want a big sitting area.

 

[ovrszd]

It appears the drawing isn't even close to accurate. For example, it indicates the bedroom is 13ft from the walk in door to the back wall? The house is 26ft. So the bedroom door is actually in the middle of the house? So the sitting area isn't proportionately as big as it appears? If so, the space at the top of the drawing, to the left, is deeper than it appears? Will be hard to utilize that deep, narrow cavity.

I'm all about the concept. Something similar to this is what I would have built had I been single.

Maybe take your drawing to a local builder that you know and ask what he thinks? Maybe go to the local Lumber Yard and have them look at it. I got a lot of very good advice from the owner of my Lumber Yard.

Anxiously following this project. Kudos for having the fortitude to take on this project!!!!

 

[Michelle K linnane]

I have modified the printed version but could not save it so had to redo whole thing and I got tired of that. the wall will go 26 feet.
the bathroom will be 9 by 12, the bedroom will be 14 by 12, and then the last space 3 by 12 will a wall to wall closet. will use barn doors
on rollers to give me access to most the room in closet. I have not poured concrete yet so have plenty of time to modify. another thing I think I want
is a v or l shaped island bigger then the drawing. It will have two surface heights one to eat on and a work space for me. I want that people can sit there
and eat off the back side with stools. At the ends I thinking about having like pine or cedar posts up to ceiling not sure yet. But once we pour concrete
it more defined. But for now I can change my mind. The two doors on the one side of building will be for my living room dinning room. the sliding door let
in so much light and opens to just my land when I look out.

My contractor is Amish and he has great suggestions and knows what I like the new place is 21 miles away so it is not a hard ship
to meet him there in the morning we change plans when something happens, thus far no big deals. Or he will call me and hey it is easier to space 4 windows
on the wall then 3.

 

[ovrszd]

In regards to the Island. When you get that decided don't forget to run electrical under the concrete. Plumbing and Drain also if that's needed.

Our Island is straight, 6ft long with Cooktop in center, no plumbing. Island has overhead light with switch in one end of Island. Duplex electrical in other end.

 

[ovrszd]

We are view people as well. No curtains or blinds on any windows. Big windows. Have good views out of each side of house. Plenty of daylight in the house.

Efficient views are expensive. We have roughly 160 sqft of glass. We bought good quality windows and doors to minimize heating cooling costs with that much glass.

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Current house is modular 3 bedrooms 2 baths. I have quests a couple times a year, but always in the summer. No basement, no attic. No garage, no extra room for freezer or
ref in the house. All that stuff out in barn. 6 steps to get in house. No cover on front porch or deck. Everything needs
to be shoveled in winter. I am sick and tired of heating and paying taxes on rooms I only use a few times a year. I would much rather be in one big room where I spend
the majority of my waking hours when I am in the house.


This will be summer time home will go south in winter. Will insulate but will drain water down ever winter lower heat and go to texas in travel trailer. I work from home
and sick of cold winters. All I need is broadband in order to work. So come January down south i will head. House will be built so i can spend winter up here. But looking
forward to having NO STEPS. Being able to drive my truck under cover (The cable end ) having everything in one building. No more having to take snow off truck or defrost windshield. Not
having to go out to barn to get something out of the freezers. Or grocery shop and seal a meal the meat and having to take if out to barn to put in freezer.

Not having to walk on icy porch to get to my truck. Big outdoor living area everything under cover my grills, smokers, not having to take cushions in the house because
it is going to rain. Not having to roll my windows up in truck because it is going to rain. No steps to carry groceries in to house. Could buy a kids wagon and pull them right in the
house.

For me this all about making life as easy and as simple as I can get it. My utility room in garage will also double as a walk in pantry so I can just take a photo
before going grocery shopping and being able to see what I have on selves before if decide I want to make something for dinner and not sure I have everything.
Will heat with propane, taking my tank with me its paid for. Will have 2 zones one for garage and one for house. Force hot air so can use ducts for
air conditioning. Now have to take muddy and snow cove boots off in house looking forward to being able to keep my coats and boots in garage. Will have a coat
rack and bench out there to take shoes off.

I cook with Propane now, will propane furnace, will have on demand hot water heater, a energy pacific propane stove come in when it is cold want a fire click a button instant flame.
No more wood carrying in house. House will not be as dusty due to wood stove. Going to have the concrete painted with epoxy paint
with area rugs. I swear you could have a house of 2000 sq feet of tile and 2 sq feet of carpet and your dog
will puke, pea, or crap on that 2 sq feet of rug. No more wall to wall carpeting. If the floors are cold that is what they make slippers for.
Will be easy clean up with dogs and puppies, and I think a great deal less dust.

That epoxy paint can be done very pretty. Many designs has come a long way. If I choose to have some kind HW flooring putting down later I can.

 

[EddieWalker]

You have a very well thought out plan on what you want and how to go about achieving it.

 

[Michelle K linnane]

One thing I can say now that I have experience is this was well worth doing my costs to get barn down and moved was about $6000.
So long as the new barn follows the same rules about purling's with spacing it was not much of issue to use the same holds in roof and sides.
Even the metal that had cut outs for outdoor electric we will just put outdoor electric plugs there. With our snow load the trusses alone would
of cost that. Plus we moved about 3 to 4 ton of metal. Saved many of the posts and headers. Windows,, doors,, etc.

The only thing I can say is who ever takes it down should be the crew to put it back up again. That is what I did. I have no regrets.
Poles barns are easier to break down then a house as most of them in this area the truss are 4 foot on center, the purling's are always spaced the
same. Also the barn I took down was a good quality barn the Amish guy that did mine said it was a very well built barn much better
then the Morton pole barns they have worked on.

We even saved some money by reclaiming the 2 by 4 to reuse to brace the poles I bought a pneumatic nail gun remover. Air Locker nail kicker removing 9mm stick nails & 16 gauge brads. - YouTube We put a 5 gallon pail out to catch the nails in most cases it shot it clear thru the wood and into the pail.
but the over the nail and shoots it out the other end. Even removed the spiral nails that tool is the Cat Butt. It cost about $40 bucks on amazon
was well worth the money the Amish guy wants me to find battery operated one for him.

 

[ovrszd]

I absolutely understand your goal.

I lived in a two story house for 40 years. Even had two steps from attached garage to house. Last May we moved into our new house on a concrete slab. We don't have a single step anywhere. Attached one car garage. No step into house.

We don't migrate South so heat was important. We heated our slab, including the garage. Auto door opener on the garage. Drive in, get out of car, remove coat, boots, etc., hang them in the heated garage. Carry groceries in with no steps. Even used a low clearance threshold on the door going into the house. Used 36" doors everywhere. 48" hallway. 48" wide showers. Everything accessible in a wheel chair if needed. We'll die in this house.

I have a detached shop that's 30ft from the house. I spend a lot of time in the shop. Am there now. I originally planned to build something similar to yours, all under one roof. After visiting with several people I consider experts, including Eddie Walker from here on TBN, I decided to separate the buildings. The work I do in my shop is noisy and smelly. Lot of metal work, cutting, welding, etc. I didn't feel confident I could isolate the shop enough.

We had our concrete floor in the house stained and sealed. We use throw rugs. We really like it. It cost us $5000 to have the floors done on 1750 sqft. The contractor that poured our floor did an excellent job. Very flat and uniform. The contractor that did our stain used a buffer with a grinding wheel and ground off the finish to a slightly rough texture so the stain would stick. After he finished it with sealer it's again smooth. I'll attach a couple pics of the stain. The choices are limitless.

If I had a do over it would be to insulate all the interior walls in the house. Noise transmits easier when living on concrete. The garage walls that the house shares are fully insulated just like the exterior walls. Spray foam and then filled with fiberglas. The garage floor also slopes toward the overhead door and is recessed so no liquids coming from the car can enter the house. If I'm sitting in the living room and my wife comes home I don't hear her until she opens the door to enter the utility room from the garage. Very good noise discipline in those walls. We never smell the car.

You might want to talk to your insurance company about your design. They may have requirements regarding the separation of your living quarters and garage?? Not sure about that. Our insurance agent asks us about the joining wall's construction. He also commented positively about the floor design.

I would suggest that you construct as if you are going to spend the Winters there. We never know what the future holds. You might find yourself unable to make the trip South each Winter.

Anxious to follow your progress. Thanks for starting the thread and taking the time to keep us updated!!!

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Wow I love your floors. that is exactly what I am talking about. I had floor in in my old barn but don't want to bother in new one.
My truck will not go in garage just underneath my overhang so long as the sun and weather don't hit it that is all I care about.
Yes I will insulate fully and have the systems to deal harsh winters and staying warm.
I had done the same thing in part of my old barn

 

[aczlan]

You might want to talk to your insurance company about your design. They may have requirements regarding the separation of your living quarters and garage?? Not sure about that. Our insurance agent asks us about the joining wall's construction. He also commented positively about the floor design.

Excellent point, in many cases they will require a fire-rated door and fire rated sheetrock with all penetrations sealed with the red calk.

If you're going to be there in the winter, I would strongly recommend that you look into putting in radiant heat in the slab. It makes for amazingly comfortable heat in a living area.

Aaron Z

 

[ovrszd]

Excellent point, in many cases they will require a fire-rated door and fire rated sheetrock with all penetrations sealed with the red calk.

If you're going to be there in the winter, I would strongly recommend that you look into putting in radiant heat in the slab. It makes for amazingly comfortable heat in a living area.

Aaron Z

I agree. If you already intend to insulate the concrete the additional cost of PEX is minimal. Insulation is pricey though I spent $480 for the PEX under my house floor. Originally didn't intend to use it. But couldn't pour the concrete without installing the PEX. I was insulating either way.

 

[3Ts]

We just built our forever house. It has 4 foot hallways, 3 foot doors, handicap bars in bathrooms, and the laundry is next to the bedrooms where most of the laundry is created. We have an interior bathroom so we have a tubular skylight to light it up. Freezer is in the mud room and a counter top is in the mud room to catch all the odds & ends that would otherwise end up on the kitchen countertop.

Keep in mind you will want a small (we have 1.5" step up from the outside porch to the inside of the house to keep water from running in under the door. (same for attached garage with floor sloped to the door)

We have a dehumidifier which is separate from the Air conditioner. We have propane forced air heat which is not as efficient as a heat pump, but I do not like cold air blowing on me when it's trying to warm up the house. We have a (propane only) fireplace that is only 14" deep so it doesn't stick into the room much.

We also have stained and honed concrete floors. We like them, sort of. The problem has to do with the quality of the concrete and the ability of the applicator. When the applicator has to come back to do a touch up, it won't be the same color. Also, if they don't prep the floor properly and use an angle grinder to "smooth it up" it's not going to turn out well. We are putting in an epoxy floor, we're expecting it to be completed next week. We have high hopes for it, we'll see.

Also, consider requiring all outside doors to be solid core. Note: solid core and solid wood are not the same thing. Solid core allows use of manufactured wood.

 

[ovrszd]

3Ts, our concrete guys were great. The floors were properly poured, prepped, stained and sealed. So far we haven't had any issues.

As to the step at the door. Our concrete porch is poured 1/2" lower than our slab. Then it is gently sloped up to the entrance door. You don't even notice the rise and no step.

When you get your floor redone I'd be interested in hearing about it.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Congratulations on a great project. Well done. A man after my own heart!

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Updated project pictures have 200 ton of crusher run before the concrete pour. By the time I took barn down and transported it and put it back up again if has cost me $1 a square foot. barn is 48 by 88 4224 square feet. The picture is not clear as I took it thru truck windshield.

I could not predicted how much building materials were going to go up when I started this project pre COVID back in 2019. I did buy the 3 sliding glass door as it lets more light in the door and I prefer to frame in 1 door as opposed to doing 3 windows. But when we took all the metal for the ceilings and I can use in my garage area man am I glade I did this. We still have at least 3 to 4 tons of metal still left over so I can use on other projects. Want to build a shed roof for me new toy hauler to park under I will live on the the toy hauler in summer until barn is completed. My plan is I work from home as an IT project manager I plan to spend winter in Texas and summers up here.

When the Amish took barn down they saved all the electric outlets, all the pex fittings, all the lights, fans, doors, windows, they even saved the light bulbs from the shop lighting in the barn.

The apartment will be 28 by 48. The garage will be 18 by 48, The over hang space which will have 3 sides eventually only gable end open will be 40 by 48. Everything under one roof, clean off my truck in the winter, no carrying stuff up steps. Have not had a attached garage in 14 years will nice to walk into garage for something i need instead of going out to barn. not far but 150 feet is a pain in the neck when winter time.


But will building materials being so much I think this is good alternate route if you have Amish close and a friend with a tractor trailer to move trusses 18 miles away. Many people when I first posted this thought it was not worth doing.

 

[Michelle K linnane]

Congratulations!!! Your new barn looks great. How close to your expectations on what it would cost did you come?

$1 a sq foot to take down, move and put back up.