Got weighed

/ Got weighed #41  
I've got one & it was great for figuring things out. I rarely use it now as I've marked ballance/loading points & validated how much things sag at proper loading.

Most gravel pits will let you use their scales for free if nothing else is going on.

You can use use a bathroom scale & some lumber as a lever to safely & accurately exceed the scale capacity. It takes a little time & math. Really only useful for hitch weights & I'm guessing has an upper practical limit of 1k or so with common household or barn found materials.

I use the bathroom scale method, for whatever hitch weight I may need, up to 1200 lbs.
For those who don't understand it, the procedure is clearly/graphically described on the "E-Trailer" website.
Simple to do, and reasonably accurate.

Much better than just guessing, by looking at vehicle squat, or tire squat.
Procedure only needs repeating when load distribution is revised.
 
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/ Got weighed #42  
You either need to get a Sherline tongue weight scale or when you were at the truck stop scale, unhitch the trailer and go back through the scale with just the truck. That way you can tell how much the tongue weight actually is. That would have given you all your answers. Usually a 2nd weigh in at the truck scale is much cheaper than the initial weigh in.

Anyone have any experience with the "Weigh Safe" line of ball mounts? Seriously considering one as there are no truck scales within miles.
 
/ Got weighed #43  
Higher numbered rear gears take a strain off the drive line. Most of this just in getting started.
 
/ Got weighed #44  
I think they are probably good. The sherline works with hydraulic oil. I called them because I needed a scale with a heavier reading on it than the one I had. They just told me to buy a gauge for it. So the 1 scale will work with all their gauges. They did tell me that the gauge is most accurate in the middle of its weight rating. So keep that in mind when purchasing.
My 2016 F350 with 3.73’s is beyond trailer weight and gcwr weight when I tow. Again, as long as your axles and tire weights are not exceeded and you are registered for what you are pulling and carrying I wouldn’t worry about it. My factory transmission temp runs around 190-203 degrees when pulling.
 
/ Got weighed #45  
Well - Hail. With the 6.4L - 410 hp Hemi - 4.11 gears - the Taco Wagon will pass everything on the road. Except a gas station. So there!!!

When I mash down on the pedal - you can hear that sound. Sounds like a BIMBO suckin' on a garden hose.
 
/ Got weighed #46  
Well - Hail. With the 6.4L - 410 hp Hemi - 4.11 gears - the Taco Wagon will pass everything on the road. Except a gas station. So there!!!

When I mash down on the pedal - you can hear that sound. Sounds like a BIMBO suckin' on a garden hose.

But can you stop anything?
 
/ Got weighed #48  
Anyone have any experience with the "Weigh Safe" line of ball mounts? Seriously considering one as there are no truck scales within miles.

I just bought one about a week ago. I have not towed with it yet but it is very well made and had two people randomly say something like, "wow that hitch is heavy duty." The reviews were very good and they seem to stand behind them if there is a problem so I figured I would give it a shot. Could be a nice additional safety precaution.
 
/ Got weighed #49  
"Can I stop anything?" Well, it does have 14" Brembo disks on all four corners. You can still tell that the Taco Wagon weight almost 4 tons when it's time to stop.

The brakes are more than adequate to activate the ABS. The Hemi power is more than adequate to activate the traction control system and the stability control system.

Unless I choose to put the truck in the "Off-road" mode. Off-road being one of the four operational modes for the traction control system.
 
/ Got weighed #50  
Sorry but I'm not the claimant. Talk to FCA if you don't like it.
So, you have 1600# of payload. At 10-15% tongue weight, that's 1000-1500# of your payload used for a 10k trailer. Not a lot of weight left for the driver, passengers or other cargo in the truck.

Aaron Z
 
/ Got weighed #51  
So, you have 1600# of payload. At 10-15% tongue weight, that's 1000-1500# of your payload used for a 10k trailer. Not a lot of weight left for the driver, passengers or other cargo in the truck.

Aaron Z

Right, just as you would expect.

MAXIMUM TRAILER WEIGHT is exactly that. No more, no less. It means the most you can do in the best possible scenario. I think you'll find the same on any advertised figures for any brand and/or class of truck.
 
/ Got weighed #52  
Now, hold it. That is for a utility trailer where tongue weight is important. If you have a farm wagon, as I do, tongue weight means nothing. However, with the off- road suspension on the Taco Wagon I still have only 1000# carrying capacity for the entire pickup.
 
/ Got weighed #53  
Right, just as you would expect.

MAXIMUM TRAILER WEIGHT is exactly that. No more, no less. It means the most you can do in the best possible scenario. I think you'll find the same on any advertised figures for any brand and/or class of truck.
Take a look at those specs for a 2015+ F150, you will find that they can (with Max Tow and Max Payload) have 4 250# guys in the cab, 800# of stuff in the bed AND a 12,000# trailer on back with 10% tongue weight...

Aaron Z
 
/ Got weighed #54  
If you have 4 - 250 pound guys in the cab -- you darn well better be stopping at an all-you-can-eat buffet. When they all get hungry.
 
/ Got weighed #56  
Take a look at those specs for a 2015+ F150, you will find that they can (with Max Tow and Max Payload) have 4 250# guys in the cab, 800# of stuff in the bed AND a 12,000# trailer on back with 10% tongue weight...

I don't have (and don't want) and F150, so that is totally irrelevant to me.
 
/ Got weighed #57  
had a sliverado 1500 and now have an F350. Both look like pickup trucks.

BUT that's about where it stops.

The 350 has heaver frame (thicker steel), extra support on the driveshaft (like medium duty trucks), huge brakes, free float rear axle, 8 lug nut wheel/hubs, 10 ply tires, MUCH bigger brakes. Much bigger springs as well.

Difference between, say a bicycle frame and a motorcycle frame.

The entire dynamics of the vehicle are different - a 1500 is a CAR. A 350 is a work truck. The 250 is a nice middle ground good for light work or heavy 'consumer' use.

Folks overload all the time. I've run at the limit of one thing or another at times - and survived.

Like my Kioti - rated to lift 1800lb on the loader. Even if that isn't including the bucket/forks, I should get 1500 real lift, right? Nope. 1000 give or take 50lb with loaded rear tires. And it's sketchy as all ****. PUt a big implement on the back (1000lb-ish) and it keeps the rear wheel on the ground more consistently, but it's not a load you're gonna wanna go fast with , lift high, or go down a grade with.

So there is a rating...how/where they get it I'm not sure. How much margin of error is there? Is your truck NEW or worn? How much does that rating drop with non-oem brakes/rotors/shocks, wear and mileage?
 
/ Got weighed #58  
In the real world, I don't think you will find a F150 with 3000 lbs of payload. About 2500 is the most they get up to.
 
/ Got weighed #60  
had a sliverado 1500 and now have an F350. Both look like pickup trucks.

BUT that's about where it stops.

The 350 has heaver frame (thicker steel), extra support on the driveshaft (like medium duty trucks), huge brakes, free float rear axle, 8 lug nut wheel/hubs, 10 ply tires, MUCH bigger brakes. Much bigger springs as well.

Difference between, say a bicycle frame and a motorcycle frame.

The entire dynamics of the vehicle are different - a 1500 is a CAR. A 350 is a work truck. The 250 is a nice middle ground good for light work or heavy 'consumer' use.

Folks overload all the time. I've run at the limit of one thing or another at times - and survived.

Like my Kioti - rated to lift 1800lb on the loader. Even if that isn't including the bucket/forks, I should get 1500 real lift, right? Nope. 1000 give or take 50lb with loaded rear tires. And it's sketchy as all ****. PUt a big implement on the back (1000lb-ish) and it keeps the rear wheel on the ground more consistently, but it's not a load you're gonna wanna go fast with , lift high, or go down a grade with.

So there is a rating...how/where they get it I'm not sure. How much margin of error is there? Is your truck NEW or worn? How much does that rating drop with non-oem brakes/rotors/shocks, wear and mileage?

Been there , done that....
 

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