New to me drill press repairs

[TMGT]

Picked up a large drill press the other day, wasnt really looking for another one but this one showed up on Craigslist cheap and nearby so I figured it was worth looking at.

The ad had a couple pictures but not much info, could it really tell what make/model but it looked to be a decent size.

Turned out to be an older Enco branded Taiwanese unit bit its built pretty well, it's a 27.5" swing, power feed and 5hp. It's quite the beast, but needs a repair in the table to column mount casting.

Apparently the collar was put on upside down from the beginning and eventually cracked, nothing major. I have it appart and will be repairing it once I get it cleaned up.

Torn between using 55ni rod or brazing, I think once the collar is flipped over it qont be putting as much stress on the joint so hopefully it shouldn't break again.

Couple pictures of the press when I brought it home and the cracked area.

 

[RNeumann]

Heat and braze

 

[Big Barn]

Heat and braze

That would be my suggestion also

Nice drill press!! You will love the power feed.

 

[RNeumann]

More complex than your repair- but you get the idea.

TIG Welding/Brazing Cast Iron Vise - YouTube

 

[thepumpguysc]

NICE find..
U can use it to fix the screw hole in your RAKE.. & get after those leaves.!! Lol...

 

[TMGT]

NICE find..
U can use it to fix the screw hole in your RAKE.. & get after those leaves.!! Lol...

I normally don't rake up the leaves in the woods...............

 

[otlski]

I would drill small holes at each of the very ends of the crack. Be certain to completely ensure that none of the crack exists outside the hole radius. Doing so will stop the crack from propagating further. Then attempt the braze. For that matter, can you just drill the whole crack completely out with one large bit and not worry about it?

 

[TMGT]

I would drill small holes at each of the very ends of the crack. Be certain to completely ensure that none of the crack exists outside the hole radius. Doing so will stop the crack from propagating further. Then attempt the braze. For that matter, can you just drill the whole crack completely out with one large bit and not worry about it?

Crack goes from edge to edge so nothing to drill, it will get beveled. Going back and forth on brazing or using nickel rod. Based on my buddy that does this type of work all the time I'm leaning towards using ni55 rod, plus he already has some I can use

Got it appart, now it's time to clean it up and grove it out with a carbide burr.

 

[mrmikey]

I'd go Ni-Rod as well, you won't have to get the whole piece hot just take the chill of it. Wondering if some sort of clamp around the piece when you're done due to the shape and the way the stress will be. I know you had said it was initially installed wrong is why it broke but additional strength wouldn't hurt.
Watch the burrs that come off the bitt, one of those suckers put me in the hospital for a week years ago due to blood poisoning from a piece I got in my finger...........Mike

 

[TMGT]

I'd go Ni-Rod as well, you won't have to get the whole piece hot just take the chill of it. Wondering if some sort of clamp around the piece when you're done due to the shape and the way the stress will be. I know you had said it was initially installed wrong is why it broke but additional strength wouldn't hurt.
Watch the burrs that come off the bitt, one of those suckers put me in the hospital for a week years ago due to blood poisoning from a piece I got in my finger...........Mike

Yeah I hate carbide burr splinters, nice part about cast is it usually breaks up enough that you dont have splinters like with steel or aluminum.

I dont see a good way to clamp it but once its flipped over the cracked area will be in compression instead of tension and the heavier part of the casting will take the weight of the table.

 

[Cord]

Crack goes from edge to edge so nothing to drill, it will get beveled. Going back and forth on brazing or using nickel rod. Based on my buddy that does this type of work all the time I'm leaning towards using ni55 rod, plus he already has some I can use

Got it appart, now it's time to clean it up and grove it out with a carbide burr.View attachment 587348View attachment 587349

I do that weld with a single pass of nickle rod without thinking twice.

 

[yomax4]

I'd vote Ni99 if you want to stick it. Or Hot Spray Powder. Or Tig or Braze with Ni Ag. Much nicer than Bronze. Easy fix.

 

[TMGT]

I'd vote Ni99 if you want to stick it. Or Hot Spray Powder. Or Tig or Braze with Ni Ag. Much nicer than Bronze. Easy fix.

Why do you suggest Ni99? this is a decent size casting and will need some cleanup/machine work possibly. Spray powder isnt really the right process for this repair, it has structure, not just closing up an exhaust manifold or head crack.

I think I'll be going with the Ni55 for this one.

 

[radios1]

Why do you suggest Ni99? this is a decent size casting and will need some cleanup/machine work possibly. Spray powder isnt really the right process for this repair, it has structure, not just closing up an exhaust manifold or head crack.

I think I'll be going with the Ni55 for this one.

the whole point is using something that can stretch, else the weld will crack on cast iron unless the part is heated in an oven first, and then put into an oven and allowed to cool slowly. without the oven, either bronze or Austenitic stainless steel is recommended, with the Austenitic stainless steel giving a stronger weld..

 

[KWentling]

Brazing, if done correctly, will be the strongest repair. The nickel rod would work OK too as long as the cast is of decent quality. It won't be as strong, but likely be fine.

 

[TMGT]

Pre and post heat are given, I have a decent size oven capable of 2400*f so no problems there.

I've done repairs on cast using stainless and brazing, not much using Ni rods, looking at the casting and application guides the Ni55 seems to be the best fit for this repair.

 

[ddbackhoe]

Pre and post heat are given, I have a decent size oven capable of 2400*f so no problems there.

I've done repairs on cast using stainless and brazing, not much using Ni rods, looking at the casting and application guides the Ni55 seems to be the best fit for this repair.

Or you could just give up. I would came haul away the scrap for you.

 

[TMGT]

I've got some crap..... I mean scrap you can have

 

[radios1]

Pre and post heat are given, I have a decent size oven capable of 2400*f so no problems there.

I've done repairs on cast using stainless and brazing, not much using Ni rods, looking at the casting and application guides the Ni55 seems to be the best fit for this repair.

here's an informative site for you. Cast Iron Welding - Turlock, CA - LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.

 

[TMGT]

here's an informative site for you. Cast Iron Welding - Turlock, CA - LOCK-N-STITCH Inc.

I'm familiar with lock-n-stitch, they recently completed a 3year project at my work so I got to talk to their reps quite a bit. Good system but I definitely got the feeling they would bash any other system of cast repair.