HELP to make decision on what I need

/ HELP to make decision on what I need #1  

ukrkoz

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
107
Location
Auburn
Tractor
Pioneer 1000 EPS
I am absolutely in mad circle on what to go with. For about a month by now.

here's situation:

6 acre property in PacNW. Rains half a year or more. Property is 2 tiered. lower tier is partial wetland. Wetland adds up to 1.25 acre. It gets muddy and full of puddles rain season but dries to the bone from mid May all the way till fall rains start.
Lower tier is "curb appeal" lawn. Tiers are roughly same size. Upper tier is just normal clay and rocks soil with some wet spots.
Hence, MOWING is weekly chore starting mid March and every other week late June through September. Average mow time is 4 hrs.
Problem with mowing: VERY uneven property. Especially the lower tier. Small hills and valleys, rain runts, mole mounds. Mower has to creep through that area at walking speed, or it is impossible and destructive on the machine.
No farm animals. None intended. So no bails of hey and such. Regular property maintenance done by 2 people. We did Ok so far with hands and manual labor. Cleaning property from fallen brunches after storms, garden beds, flower beds, bark, topsoil, things of that nature.
So far the biggest issue is mowing as it is literally painful due to property never properly graded. it was simply cleared from vegetation and left "as is".
I had 54'' Hustler ZTR that turned out to be POS sold at 30 hrs. Upgraded to 60'' Hustler ZTR. That stays in one piece, I am surprised, it didn't crack in a half yet on all those bumps. But it has zero suspension, even with torque forks, and painful 4 hrs.

!. My first plan was to get an ATV to tow a mower. I am inclined towards flail mower, as they go through very tall grass. 500lbs, $2000. Bought used Honda Foreman 500, was waiting on flail mower price drop. Fun machine to have, as it also towed our utility trailer, so it came handy for many haul this or that tasks. WHEN IT WORKED. In about 6 months of ownership, I went through new fan, ECU, 2 carburetor, master brake cylinder, and it was still dripping gas and started flashing new error codes sporadically. Sold. Got tired of it, wife called it "every weekend project". But it had FUN FACTOR and was useful around property as towing device. Plus, 4x4 allowed to go through any mud and puddles.

2. At this point, I have cash from ATV sale and went back to drawing board. I started looking at side by sides. 2 people can sit, has some cargo box in the back, same 4x4, can tow reasonably well. Sort of upgraded ATV. Don't want to buy used ones anymore. Ok, so they go anywhere from $9000 to 12000 for say Polaris Ranger. With me leaning towards Pioneer 500 as it has geared transmission, vs CVT belt in Polaris. FUN FACTOR is still there, we might as well take it to a trail ever so often.
Ok, looking at $12000 plus $2000 for tow behind mower... at that point, I realized that

3. I am looking at a tractor cost. I looked at compact tractors and I can get sub compact with mid mount mower and FEL for $16K. Prices may vary, depending on which make to go with, but it's somewhere around thta number. That made me think of:

4. hmm, a tractor.. so maybe I can use it to re grade my property? It's a tractor, after all. Had a post on that here and realized one thing. Subcompact will NOT do it, even going very slowly. Just does not have power enough. That made me look into:

5. 30 hp compacts. There is Kubota that has mid mount PTO and can take 60 '' mid mount mower ( I can't do PTO driven tow behind one due to some very tight areas to mow). There is JD that has about same. Price now jumped into $23K-$26K.
That made me think:

6. Why exactly do I need a compact tractor if I do not really need any major power as soon as I am done with taking hills off and filling low spots. Then it is nothing more than a fancy/pricy lawn mower. As again - no bails of hey, no truck loads of dirt to move with loader, no real use for it as a tractor, as far as property is turned into more level and mowable.
That made me think:

7. Skid steer, tracks,, rental is $1000 week. I can take week off, rent skid steer with blade, do grading and be done. Drag something over the property, like a landscape rake, ever so often, to keep it level.
That made me think:

8. No tractor, go back to SxS (fun factor and general basic use as tow truck) and flail mower. Rent skid steer, grade what you need to, use SxS to tow a drag or harrow or some home made land plane to maintain more or less level surface. My only concern is - holding gas pedal sturdy for couple hours when mowing. That's how you end in muscle cramp. But it is better than ATV throttle lever, as then your thumb dies.

That's how the circle closed. Snake bit its tail. Hope this makes sense. tractors are sort of staple around here, on large properties. neighbor has one but I know how little use he has for it. We, on the other hand, stay rather healthy by doing a lot of physical labor and we do not mind it. feels good. So with tractor, I know for sure that as soon as I am done with grading project, it'll be doing not much more that mowing - and it's too fancy a mower to my frugal taste. I, also, do not like being in debt. Not that I can't afford, I can step out and buy tractor cash right now. It's against my principles.

So here I am in my mad circle. DW is no help to make decision, she does not mow, so for her it's my "story" to get a new expensive toy. She, surprisingly, also wants something with fun factor, considering we have a grandson and he loves riding his JD tractor (toy) being "chased" by grandpa in ATV.

That's my story... What would you do?
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #2  
I would buy a tractor from 1,600 pounds to 2,700 pounds bare tractor weight and 12"+ ground clearance. You will need a Box Blade for grading, but from reading your posting history here, you know that. After grading, mow with a Three Point Hitch mounted Finish Mower, not a belly mower.

New tractor owners almost always discover many, many more applications for the machine then they contemplated when shopping. Six acres is ample ground to justify a tractor. Save your back for the future.

VIDEOS: Kubota B261 VS Kubota B265 - YouTube

Kubota Standard L-Series. L251 L331 L391 L471 features and operation. - YouTube

Comparing Finish Mowers (midmount VS 3-point) - Kubota B261 - YouTube
 
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/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I have half acre where 3 point mower with tractor simply won't go. Narrow passages and 90 degree turns in fence corners. Rig like tractor and mower simply won't turn. yet, it has to be mowed. I could possibly run my Craftsman there...

After review

Comparing Finish Mowers (midmount VS 3-point) - Kubota B261 - YouTube

that actually convinced me on mid mount mower.

So you opt for tractor.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #4  
"... New tractor owners almost always discover many, many more applications for the machine then they contemplated "- Jeff
I agree; also about saving one's body for future use.

If you finally decide to go the tractor route make sure that you have sufficient ground clearance with midpoint mower attached.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #5  
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #6  
So hire out having the land leveled. Either rent a machine w/operator, or if you're confident you won't be wasting rental time learning how to use it, just rent the equipment and do it yourself.

Keep your current zero turn for mowing once your land areas are "mowable".

Buy a new side-by-side for funzies and chasing grand kids.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Noted.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #8  
So hire out having the land leveled. Either rent a machine w/operator, or if you're confident you won't be wasting rental time learning how to use it, just rent the equipment and do it yourself.

Keep your current zero turn for mowing once your land areas are "mowable".

Buy a new side-by-side for funzies and chasing grand kids.

That will work. Best to get large machine with operator. ( Agricultural tractor & disk ) and get hold of a baulk of wood for leveling drag & spike tooth harrow that tows behind the side by side to get a really
Nice smooth surface.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #9  
if you are SERIOUSLY considering getting the ground reworked, that would solve much of your issues, have someone with the equipment do it so they can provide the proper drainage, ( unless you have the ability by renting it ) it will all be smooth and level to keep the zero turn, and buy the SbyS or utility for FUN/Work, i bought my aging parents a mule ( kawasaki, not a 4 legged ) and it is one of the most versatile things for them. They love it and use it for so many things i had no idea how useful they really are. Just another 2 cents.....
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Noted on all points.

Somehow, I can't find how to give you all reps, but it is intended.

I am back to work and I commute at least an hour one way, so it's my thinking time.

Here's my 90% thought after commute.
Anything a SxS can do, tractor can do.
Tractor then can do much more SxS can't.
Tough, it is not going to go fast on trails. Chance of us actually taking SxS out into trails is rather very low.
So I am leaning towards actually going with upper end sub compact, around 25-27 hp (which I was assured by JD guy, for example, will easily pull 48'' BB) and LEARNING tractor. That regrading project - DIY as much as I can, what I can't, outsource.
In this manner, I can figure tractors, figure what is that I really need from them and can do with them, then maybe upgrade to compact in few years.
I am planning on retiring, or partially retiring, in 3 yrs. THEN I may actually really need a "real" tractor, as time on hand will let me spend it onto property projects.
Kubota has more ground clearance vs JD belly mower. 12 inch vs 6. YouTube almighty.
If I go with sub tractor, I'll end with around $100 month payment, which we will not even notice. Just put it on cruise control and likely pay it off in 2 yrs. Then I have equity in tractor for upgrade.
Surely I'll miss fun part but kiddo is getting ATV next year anyway and he will be more than happy to ride tractor with granpa. He LUVS machinery.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #11  
I am leaning towards actually going with upper end sub compact, around 25-27 hp (which I was assured by JD guy, for example, will easily pull 48'' BB) and LEARNING tractor. That regrading project - DIY as much as I can, what I can't, outsource.
In this manner, I can figure tractors, figure what is that I really need from them and can do with them, then maybe upgrade to compact in few years.
I am planning on retiring, or partially retiring, in 3 yrs. THEN I may actually really need a "real" tractor, as time on hand will let me spend it onto property projects.

Problem with mowing: VERY uneven property. Especially the lower tier. Small hills and valleys, rain runts, mole mounds. Mower has to creep through that area at walking speed, or it is impossible and destructive on the machine.

All subcompact tractors have 7" to 9" ground clearance beneath the tractor. The way you have described your land, 9" ground clearance will have your tractor high-centered and immobilized often.

I think you need 12"+ of ground clearance, which includes compact tractors.

Tractor weight determines 70% of what implement a tractor can pull. Tire selection is another 10%. Horsepower to pull a Box Blade is only 20% factor. ((This assumes 4-WD is standard (usually) or ordered as an option.))

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.
 
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/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#12  
So it has to be lower end compact? It WILL have to go through mud and puddles. Nothing major deep yet... ATV went there no questions asked, only wiggled its *** a few times.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #13  
ATV are much lighter than tractors. ATVs do not have heavy Loaders nor gallons of hydraulic fluid. ATVs do not mount 400 pound to 1,000 pound implements behind.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Does this mean that I am looking at high chance of tractor being stuck in mud then? It's pretty soupy there till May. For about an acre. And that's exactly where I need 4x4 in form that will not get stuck.
Btw, I have no intentions to mow with FEL on. I won't be able to turn in some spots. Stripped down to tractor/mower only.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #15  
Tractors get stuck in mud fairly easily. Those oversize rear wheels which provide pulling power like to spin in mud, creating rear wheel ruts which a tractor may not be able to crawl out of.

It is a tractor joke that 4-WD allows a tractor operator to get deeper mired than 2-WD.

Few would intentionally take a tractor into bog conditions.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Oh, no, no. That just killed it. Something like this in video WILL happen. I know what I am talking about as I had to pull my mowers out 3 or 4 times.
Some areas muddy sod is 5-6 inches deep.

Winch Rescue! Compact Tractor Tackles Mud, Mountains, and Snake - YouTube

Ok. Well, that pretty much closed the discussion. I am very glad I caught this on time with your help. ATV or SxS with tow behind flail mower it is. I ran my Foreman through them puddles in my property mid engine deep...
Now I get it why neighbor, who has likely a 40-50Hp tractor, does not really run it into his wetlands till they mostly dry.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #17  
if you have wetlands with 5 inches of muddy sod I would just leave it alone and not try to mow that
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need #18  
Mud differs a lot from place to place, but my experience is that you need to either be light enough to stay on top, or heavy, with tall tires to reach the solid bottom. Light can't do as much work, heavy leaves big ruts.

I would try really hard to find a way to not mow it at all, or not when wet. Why must it be mowed? Put up some signs that say "conservation area."

(My property is similar to yours in size and description, and I don't own a mower. I refuse to be a slave to grass! :D )

Bruce
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Can't help.
1. it's UGLY
2. I like mowing. I like anything related to machinery. Makes me feel good. Everyone has his crazy side, right?
Bruce, we actually tried to let it be. I could stand it till maybe late July and then mowed it. It's sore to my eyes, can't help. Like a rock in the shoe walking. I'd rather hassle with sickle and weed wacker, but get it down.
 
/ HELP to make decision on what I need
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I just bought 2018 Pioneer 1000 EPS.
So far, very happy with it. Goes through any muddy place an dour pond without even noticing it. Tows 2000, so it should plenty for my mowing needs and attachments. Plenty agri attachments available. Hauls 1500. Dump bed.
I think I go it. What I need.

Thank you all for your help. I am very glad we caught "stuck in mud" concern on time. That would have been devastating, to sign contract and get stuck.
I'm retiring, iof all goes well, in 4 yrs. I'll look into tractors then.
 

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