Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[leonz]

Hello ramptester,


I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nations from Gainesville, Georgia.
You can purchase heavier drop forged or heat treated side slicer knives for your flail mower.
Hopefully you will not stir up the native Sasquatches with your mowing but your property looks like
it is well on its way to be reclaimed and to have good grass sod in the near future.


Leon

 

[def38]

First time post, I picked up an old Ford 907 I found on Craigslist for $500. It is missing the rear shield, and the original knives were worn out. After replacing the blades (with the Mott style two piece Y blades) and belt, it has served well to clear my dad's property. He purchased about 34 acres in north Georgia that had been partially clear cut, leaving tons of stumps. His 1950s era Bush Hog (has a patent pending tag!) kept shearing PTO linkage pins, so we were looking for something that would allow clearing. We have monster briars in this area of the state if land has been left for several years. They are virtually impassible, and the dozer operators wanted $4-5000 just to get their dozer and full size excavator machines in there with all the stumps.
With the flail, I was able to start by backing the tractor in, weaving between stumps, and then setting it down and mowing out in first gear. Tractor is an Oliver 550, about 40 PTO hp, 1964 year model.
Here are some pics of one of the clearings before and after. My son is 5 deet tall in these pics, to give some idea. Once we were able to get close to the trees larger than 2 inches we could cut them with saws. Also got a stump grinder in, and now the area is mowable. Included some pics of other areas that have been mowed with the flail at about 4 inches.

Your second photo...is that your idea of a flail mower...looks more like a sickle mower to me.

 

[Fallon]

Your second photo...is that your idea of a flail mower...looks more like a sickle mower to me.

Mighty funny looking tractor powering it too. Seems to be way underpowered for the job too.

 

[whirly]

It's called character development.

 

[ramptester]

That痴 pretty funny! In all seriousness tho, he was just using that sling blade type tool to try to break off some of the stalks at ground level. We were using it to help knock down those 7 foot blackberry thorny briars close to small trees to allow us to get in with the chainsaw. There are several pairs of pants and shirts that were shredded in the making of that field... had to invest in some puncture proof gloves.
Will post some pics of some of the other mowed fields later this week.

 

[KenB2920]

Looking at how pretty your 907 is , makes me want to pull mine out and paint her up. I haven’t used the 907 in over a year

 

[bkrgi]

Well... just dove into the Flail world ......put in a order for a Woodmaxx FM62H with "edit" hammer blades as woodmaxx calls it :thumbsup:. Will get used behind a Bota B26TLB. Likely be late April or May before it shows which is perfectly fine

Been a very very long time since I have operated a flail mower...like early 80's running a Mott but I run a Lawn business so this will be handy for overgrown lots and small acreages instead of using the Gravely.

 

[def38]

Running a flail mower is easier IMO (Full disclosure...I have no experience with a rotary). Less metal hanging out the back of the tractor. As I think about power, I believe it takes more power to run the flail than a rotary...my theory is there are more cutting surfaces in contact with the crop, hence more power needed. Also, the flail mulches cuttings finer than a rotary, extracting more energy in the process. Also, it is likely that there are more frictional losses in the flail mower belt drive that powers the cutting drum.

The secret to a good cut is the position of the rear roller and maintaining the correct drum speed, all based upon my engineering background, and the fact that like President Donald Trump, I too am a genius.

Finally, some of you have the wrong end of the duck...it's duck foot or forged hammer flails (my preference, I believe they mulch better than the "Y" style knives) not duck bill flails...you maybe confusing mower flails with AFLAC.

 

[ronjhall]

Well... just dove into the Flail world ......put in a order for a Woodmaxx FM62H with "edit" hammer blades as woodmaxx calls it :thumbsup:. Will get used behind a Bota B26TLB. Likely be late April or May before it shows which is perfectly fine

Been a very very long time since I have operated a flail mower...like early 80's running a Mott but I run a Lawn business so this will be handy for overgrown lots and small acreages instead of using the Gravely.

I have one on order also. If it works as good as the WoodMaxx chipper I bought. I will be very happy

 

[leonz]

Ah yes,


The thinner folded ones are scoop knives, The majority of the others on crop shredders are machined scoop knives or cast hammer scoop knives with a machined edge on the casting.

 

[vlcakc]

Hello Vic,

Lucky for me I found your thread before I crawled into my warm bed.

Anyway, John Deere, and Vrisimo, are the two that I can think of off
hand that will accept the quick hitch mode. I do not believe the Caroni
can use the quick hitch.

Check with the folks at Iowa Farm equipment to see if the Del Morino, Peruzzo,
Berti and Sicma can use the quick hitch.

You can check with Ken Sweet at Sweet Tractors about the Sicma flail mowers, You can send him a PM through the forum here to ask him or call him. He ships his equipment nationwide.

The smallest JD is the 7 foot 290 unless that has changed recently but the Vrisimo can be purchased in smaller width of cut flail mowers.


Good night to you,


Leon

Some time ago I posted a question about quick hitch compatible flail mowers. Leon was kind enough to reply as above. I finally got around to checking and received the following reply from Vrisimo:

"Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee quick hitch compatibility on the Mighty Max or Super Series models. There have been scenarios with models of quick hitch that did not work with those particular mowers."

There is a newer model Land Pride FM25 that is compatible according to their website. I have not checked on the Italian brands yet. Thanks, Vic

 

[Fallon]

Some time ago I posted a question about quick hitch compatible flail mowers. Leon was kind enough to reply as above. I finally got around to checking and received the following reply from Vrisimo:

"Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee quick hitch compatibility on the Mighty Max or Super Series models. There have been scenarios with models of quick hitch that did not work with those particular mowers."

There is a newer model Land Pride FM25 that is compatible according to their website. I have not checked on the Italian brands yet. Thanks, Vic

My new Peruzzo SuperBull 2200 had a quick hitch kit that was $100 or so. As near as I can tell it's just 2 pieces if bar stock & some bolts to lower the toplink. Unfortunately I don't think it lowers it to stock QH top hook height. The adjustable top hook makes that something I can work around though.

I also took a grinder to the lift hooks & pin mounts on the flail. Beveled things so the hooks would slide in as it was a bit to tight to line up when I got it.

Forgive the click in the photos. It's there to show how fast the crap Kubota rear hydraulic spools leak down (well under an hour for the side link, a few hours for the toplink... After the dealer "fixed" them).

 

[countryguyvt]

I have a Mott F4 flail mower hooked up to a 1953 Ford NAA. When the engine is revved up to the 530 RPM range for the PTO, my ground speed really picks up and the mower ends of pushing down tall weeds/grass and gets clogged. I definitely need to sharpen the cutters, but wondered if others are mowing at a slower RPM. Or maybe I should only stick to short grass and avoid the overgrown meadows. I also need to replace the large gasket on the Warner gear box - someone suggested that NAPA might have one hanging around, otherwise I'll have to make my own.

 

[vlcakc]

My new Peruzzo SuperBull 2200 had a quick hitch kit that was $100 or so. As near as I can tell it's just 2 pieces if bar stock & some bolts to lower the toplink. Unfortunately I don't think it lowers it to stock QH top hook height. The adjustable top hook makes that something I can work around though.

I also took a grinder to the lift hooks & pin mounts on the flail. Beveled things so the hooks would slide in as it was a bit to tight to line up when I got it.

Forgive the click in the photos. It's there to show how fast the crap Kubota rear hydraulic spools leak down (well under an hour for the side link, a few hours for the toplink... After the dealer "fixed" them).View attachment 536312View attachment 536313View attachment 536314

I may have bought something similar for my old New Holland 918H flail.

Unfortunately I sold the mower before getting a chance to try it out. Vic

 

[lostcreekranch]

I may have bought something similar for my old New Holland 918H flail.
View attachment 536378
Unfortunately I sold the mower before getting a chance to try it out. Vic

Hard to say as his clock blocks a view of his top link connection.

 

[bkrgi]

Some time ago I posted a question about quick hitch compatible flail mowers. Leon was kind enough to reply as above. I finally got around to checking and received the following reply from Vrisimo:

"Unfortunately, we cannot guarantee quick hitch compatibility on the Mighty Max or Super Series models. There have been scenarios with models of quick hitch that did not work with those particular mowers."

There is a newer model Land Pride FM25 that is compatible according to their website. I have not checked on the Italian brands yet. Thanks, Vic

The Woodmaxx 54, 62 & 78 flail's are quick hitch Cat1 compatible according to the website

 

[Fallon]

I may have bought something similar for my old New Holland 918H flail.
View attachment 536378
Unfortunately I sold the mower before getting a chance to try it out. Vic

The adapter is hard mounted with 2 bolts. It's not a flex adapter like what you pictured. No good flex hitch on the mower like on my old Ford 917 or wahat not. I have float on my toplink so that takes care of flex for me. I was wondering how the flail dealt with flex by default though as not everybody has a hydraulic toplink with float.

The 2 arms the lift pins are attached to on my 917 are in slots that give it maybe 5-10 degrees of float.

 

[lagreex1]

Hello everyone, thanks for all of the great content in the thread! It's taken weeks but I made my way through it.

I'm anxiously awaiting my Caroni 1900 with the hydraulic side shift kit. It's not like I can do anything with it when it gets here, but at least I'll have it ready for spring. Karla at AgriSupply said I got the last shift kit in the country, so I guess my timing was good.

The freight company was supposed to deliver it Friday between noon and 5pm but no show/no called. I'm hoping next week I'l have better luck, since I had to take a second half day off work to be home for the drop off.

 

[lagreex1]

Well I finally have time to start getting the side shift kit onto the TM1900. The "directions" (if you can call them that) are TERRIBLE. I am trying to document the process in case anyone else can benefit from it.



To fit the side shift kit you have to take all the standard hitch equipment off.


This leaves you with the standard top link tower and lower 3pt mounts as spare parts (unless you take the slide shift kit off later).

The kit comes with it's own top link tower. It is different from the standard one


I dry-fit the side shift assembly on top. It's held on by a bolt and some wire. The cylinder mounts aren't lined up in this picture, so it won't normally be cockeyed.



One thing I didn't realize was that holes need to be drilled to mount the kit. I'm not looking forward to that. That's the next step, for another day. There are spacers that need to be inserted on the cylinder assembly, but I haven't figured out exactly how many or where. Different spacing is required for rear mount or front mount assembly, and the instructions aren't clear.

 

[RoyJackson]

(Pictures deleted)
Well I finally have time to start getting the side shift kit onto the TM1900. The "directions" (if you can call them that) are TERRIBLE. I am trying to document the process in case anyone else can benefit from it.


To fit the side shift kit you have to take all the standard hitch equipment off.


This leaves you with the standard top link tower and lower 3pt mounts as spare parts (unless you take the slide shift kit off later).

One thing I didn't realize was that holes need to be drilled to mount the kit. I'm not looking forward to that. That's the next step, for another day. There are spacers that need to be inserted on the cylinder assembly, but I haven't figured out exactly how many or where. Different spacing is required for rear mount or front mount assembly, and the instructions aren't clear.

I thought about getting the hydraulic side shift, but Agri-Supply didn't have any in stock at the time.
I set my TM1900 in the offset position...found it works fine and no problems in operation...also, IIRC, the kit is about 800 bucks...that put me off

Good luck with yours, and I hope you can post a video of it in operation