My First Real Tractor!
- Thread starter Kustrud
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Here's video - 20171016 114852 - YouTube
Called Fredericks in AL and he said to hold my finger over the breather tube for about 20 seconds and then let go. If I felt pressure build it it is blow-by. I DID feel some pressure build up. They are extremely reasonably priced on their labor and I may just run it like this until I can find some time to take it to them and save up some extra for new rings, sleeves, bearings, etc. and call it a day. They're about 3 hours from me.
Before I do anything though I'm going to weld that hole in the muffler shut and run the heck out of it with some fuel additives at least.
Before I do anything though I'm going to weld that hole in the muffler shut and run the heck out of it with some fuel additives at least.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 16,804
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
It's an old tractor. Just do the minor stuff and run it another 10 years. It will be in the same condition after another 10 years use, not like new but not deficient in any important way.
I was surprised when I had the seller bring my earlier YM186D down the mountain from Susanville (back side of the Sierras) to a shop halfway to me, where I picked it up to bring home. Dave's Tractor (former participant in this forum, now a Mahindra distributor, great guy) put it on his dyno and found it exceeded new rated horsepower. That Yanmar was 30 years old and looked so beat up that it had probably been outdoors the whole time. (photo, both). Yanmar built these to last, a little blowby after 30+ years is no reason to overhaul it. When it is hard to start indicating low compression, is where you start thinking about overhaul or replace. You are years from that if its in casual use.
I was surprised when I had the seller bring my earlier YM186D down the mountain from Susanville (back side of the Sierras) to a shop halfway to me, where I picked it up to bring home. Dave's Tractor (former participant in this forum, now a Mahindra distributor, great guy) put it on his dyno and found it exceeded new rated horsepower. That Yanmar was 30 years old and looked so beat up that it had probably been outdoors the whole time. (photo, both). Yanmar built these to last, a little blowby after 30+ years is no reason to overhaul it. When it is hard to start indicating low compression, is where you start thinking about overhaul or replace. You are years from that if its in casual use.
clemsonfor
Super Member
I run mine all the way to the top of the hatch marks. That's 5 qts. No slobbering or oil blowing out my exhaust.
clemsonfor
Super Member
I agree stop worries about it. Your tractor is fine. The rings are fine and in serviceable condition for a 35 year old tractor.
There is some slight wetness but most of that is normal diesel soot for a tractor it's age.
Think about all the old ford's or JD's you see out in the fields still disking or bushhogging, hauling just blowing a constant grey blue cloud. Those tractors probably have 10,000 hours on them and are 30 to 40 years old, the ones km talking about. Rings are worn, there is blowby but until that tractor no longer has the power to pull or uses so much oil it makes no sense to keep it full it's working. When that time comes it's rebuilt.....your no where near the point for new liners!!
There is some slight wetness but most of that is normal diesel soot for a tractor it's age.
Think about all the old ford's or JD's you see out in the fields still disking or bushhogging, hauling just blowing a constant grey blue cloud. Those tractors probably have 10,000 hours on them and are 30 to 40 years old, the ones km talking about. Rings are worn, there is blowby but until that tractor no longer has the power to pull or uses so much oil it makes no sense to keep it full it's working. When that time comes it's rebuilt.....your no where near the point for new liners!!
Understood! Thanks guys! I'm just gonna leave it be for now then! That seemed to be the consensus here! I did check the water in the cooling system after running it all day and sitting overnight. Drained and flushed more mud out haha! It's staying much clearer now though.
I also found someone to trade me a four foot bush hog for the five foot I have on Wed so I'm gonna do that. Should get some good use out this thing!
I also found someone to trade me a four foot bush hog for the five foot I have on Wed so I'm gonna do that. Should get some good use out this thing!
clemsonfor
Super Member
sounds good. Hope you much success out of it.
clemsonfor
Super Member
That stuff you see on the hood can just be water. Has this thing sat outside? my pipe has just a turn out on it and does not go very far and is undercut with a like 35 or 45 degree angle on it. If I don't put a bottle or something over the pipe and it stays out for awile it will get a small amount of blown rain in it and it will mist out like that for the first few hours of use. I aways put a water bottle with the top cut off over my pipe to avoid this. If youhave a rain proof flapper that may not be necessary.
I just opened the second picture to see this....a thought but probably not the source.
Like I said get some power source, and seafoam and put in there. power source even tells you that its safe to double up their dose. Seafoam is harmless I dump a half or whole can In my tank when I decide to use it. Maybe even try lucas injector cleaner, I know a lot of guys like that.
I just opened the second picture to see this....a thought but probably not the source.
Like I said get some power source, and seafoam and put in there. power source even tells you that its safe to double up their dose. Seafoam is harmless I dump a half or whole can In my tank when I decide to use it. Maybe even try lucas injector cleaner, I know a lot of guys like that.
careyo63
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
- Messages
- 2,781
- Tractor
- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
I noticed the angle when I suggested to turn the exhaust forward. And looked to be attached with a clamp so you can should be able to easily turn it down and point it forward if need be. No FEL. so there should be no reason not to except it may be a little long and point out the front to far. But then just unclamp it and shorten it. You can just put the angle on it and keep the pipe. If or when you nee to turn it up I have a extra flap your be welcome to.
:2cents:
:2cents:
clemsonfor
Super Member
I am pretty good about putting a bottle on it for storage. its habit now, just like disconnecting the solenoid wire for the ignorant thief. I do lots of turning close to trees and I worry I would catch it if I turned it forward. I thought about that. I also though about cutting it straight and putting a flapper on it. It works as is since I remember to put a water bottle on it now, I had one for the longest time, not sure where it went but was bent and already had a zip tie on it. I need to zip tie the current one, just the right wind lifts it up. Or a qt gator aid bottle works but the neck smaller and the weight of the bottle holds it better, even while on the trailer!!
Thanks for the offer though.
Thanks for the offer though.
careyo63
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2012
- Messages
- 2,781
- Tractor
- 77 Yanmar YM2000 63 Ford 2000
If you point it forward and then point the angle downward water not going to get into it. I live on 7 acres of woods. The only problem I have ever had wasn't getting to close to anything it was my Exhaust catching a low hanging branch, vines etc.. I've thought quite a few times to turn the exhaust. But with no problems with Blowby, Oil Bombs so just never had to. And I keep it out doors under a carport. I checked and I do have a almost New Top cap. The way I got it is the owners caught it on Branch and bent it and the Exhaust. Would not open all the way. It was easy to correct but they told me to leave it off since it was stored in a Barn always. And I told them what to do if they ever had to keep it outdoors. I cut a slice in a tennis ball for them. Squeeze and it slides right on...
clemsonfor
Super Member
Yea I know if I point mine foward and turn it down or even slightly to the side water can't get into it. Now I either park under a cover or throw a bottle on the pipe.
clemsonfor
Super Member
Good work. But if he needed a bigger hog it was probably just as good a deal for him! But sounds like u both happy!
Finally got to really work it hard for the first time. Ran the bush hog for about 4 hours today. Cuts great, works great! Couple of things I need some advice on:
1. The temp started climbing to around 215-220 after running for about 45 minutes. The stuff I am cutting is chest high and some places head high and very thick. Tractor is not bogging or lacking of power, but it is work. I shut it down and checked the radiator - FULL of crap from cutting. Put some mesh over the grill and I also forgot my "driver" side engine cover which will help next time. I brought a blower and cleaned and blew it out the best I could every 30 min or so but the little white things in the air literally kept caking on the radiator. I would shut it down for a minute, clean off what I could, then let it run around 1800 RPM for around 5 min and temp would drop down to about 175 and I'd go again. Kind of annoying, but I noticed the water in my radiator still needs to be flushed a few more times along with the radiator clogging up is probably the reason as it is obviously cooling correctly once clean again. Cleaned radiator with compressed air when I got back home and drained the dirty water. The block must just be full of all kinds of crud. Again, no oil at all - literally just muddy ditch water.
2. I developed a leak here on both sides. What would cause this, just old seals? Easy fix? It's odd, it seems like it almost stopped leaking as it's not getting any worse and I don't think it leaked anymore after the initial time....? Is there a vent or something that could be plugged possibly and made it "squirt" out there temporarily?
3. I only shifted the PTO from neutral to first gear at low RPM, everything is smooth. Can I engage the clutch (let it out) at any RPM with the PTO engaged? Or are you supposed to engage clutch at low RPM and then throttle up? Seems to work fine both ways just curious.
4. What RPM should I run at while bush hogging? I was around 2200-2400. The needle jumps around quite a bit - is this normal?
5. I did notice, the white smoke seems to be DECREASING after running it hard all day!
Here's pic of the leak
1. The temp started climbing to around 215-220 after running for about 45 minutes. The stuff I am cutting is chest high and some places head high and very thick. Tractor is not bogging or lacking of power, but it is work. I shut it down and checked the radiator - FULL of crap from cutting. Put some mesh over the grill and I also forgot my "driver" side engine cover which will help next time. I brought a blower and cleaned and blew it out the best I could every 30 min or so but the little white things in the air literally kept caking on the radiator. I would shut it down for a minute, clean off what I could, then let it run around 1800 RPM for around 5 min and temp would drop down to about 175 and I'd go again. Kind of annoying, but I noticed the water in my radiator still needs to be flushed a few more times along with the radiator clogging up is probably the reason as it is obviously cooling correctly once clean again. Cleaned radiator with compressed air when I got back home and drained the dirty water. The block must just be full of all kinds of crud. Again, no oil at all - literally just muddy ditch water.
2. I developed a leak here on both sides. What would cause this, just old seals? Easy fix? It's odd, it seems like it almost stopped leaking as it's not getting any worse and I don't think it leaked anymore after the initial time....? Is there a vent or something that could be plugged possibly and made it "squirt" out there temporarily?
3. I only shifted the PTO from neutral to first gear at low RPM, everything is smooth. Can I engage the clutch (let it out) at any RPM with the PTO engaged? Or are you supposed to engage clutch at low RPM and then throttle up? Seems to work fine both ways just curious.
4. What RPM should I run at while bush hogging? I was around 2200-2400. The needle jumps around quite a bit - is this normal?
5. I did notice, the white smoke seems to be DECREASING after running it hard all day!
Here's pic of the leak
#8 in attached is the vent for the transmission/hydraulics. Might want to check and make sure it is open. #s46 & 47 are the seals for the rockshaft but I doubt you would want to change them. HYDRAULIC_LIFT: Yanmar Tractor Parts
"3. I only shifted the PTO from neutral to first gear at low RPM, everything is smooth. Can I engage the clutch (let it out) at any RPM with the PTO engaged? Or are you supposed to engage clutch at low RPM and then throttle up? Seems to work fine both ways just curious." Either way, just engage slowly.
"4. What RPM should I run at while bush hogging? I was around 2200-2400. The needle jumps around quite a bit - is this normal?" Best cut at higher rpm. Whatever works best for you as long as not lugging your engine will be ok. Needle jumping is not unusual from my experiences.
"3. I only shifted the PTO from neutral to first gear at low RPM, everything is smooth. Can I engage the clutch (let it out) at any RPM with the PTO engaged? Or are you supposed to engage clutch at low RPM and then throttle up? Seems to work fine both ways just curious." Either way, just engage slowly.
"4. What RPM should I run at while bush hogging? I was around 2200-2400. The needle jumps around quite a bit - is this normal?" Best cut at higher rpm. Whatever works best for you as long as not lugging your engine will be ok. Needle jumping is not unusual from my experiences.
