12V Fuel transfer pump. Tractor power setup

[Dadnatron]

Quick question about setting up power from my tractor to my (soon to arrive) 12v GPI fuel transfer pump.

My intention is to use a new 2gu set of inexpensive jumper cables as cable. I was going to cut off the clamps and attach eyelets at one end, attaching it directly to the battery posts and run the cable along the frame, back towards the door, attaching it to the frame with strong Zipties. At this end, I was going to use Anderson type connectors, with ends on both the tractor as well as on the powercord from the pump. This 'should' also allow me to use this connection as a jumper cable source with Anderson --> clamp style cables.

The question I have is... is there anything I am missing?

Amazon.com: GPI 1161-11, M-15S-MU/FM2-G6N Aluminum Fuel Transfer Pump with Meter, 15 GPM, 12-VDC, .75-Inch Manual Unleaded Nozzle, 12-Foot X .75-Inch Dispensing Hose, 18-Foot Power Cord & Suction Pipe: Industrial & Scientific

These are my jumper cables... not the ones I intend to use for the battery cable

Amazon.com: Energizer 1-Gauge 8A Permanent installation kit Jumper Battery Cables with Quick Connect plug 3 Ft Booster Jump Start ENB-13 - 3' Allows you to boost a battery from behind a vehicle!: Automotive

connectors...

Amazon.com: Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Wire Harness Plug Connector Recovery Winch Trailer 6-1 GAUGE: Automotive

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

All three of your links go to the pump. No connectors or wires.

That pump says it is 0.2 hp, which is 150 watts. That's not a big load at all. @ 12v, that's pulling less than 20 amps. How far is your run?

I just did a quick calculation, and assuming 20 amps draw (which is about right for that motor @ 12v DC), you can go 15 feet with only 0.6v voltage drop with 10 gauge wire. Make it 8 gauge and you get 0.38v drop, or 3.17%.

You don't need big jumper cables for this job.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I have a couple of these fill-rite 12 volt pumps. They don't take anything crazy for wire size. I have used mine for years with basically a dozen feet of heavy lamp cord.

If you attach anything permanently to your battery, make sure you have a fuse inline.

 

[skipperbrown]

I have a fillrite and it came with about 10-12' of about 14g hookup wire and they recommended a 30a in line fuse that I installed. When I pump 50 gallons the wire gets nice and warm to the touch but not hot. I would recommend 10-12g wire and as industrial toys recommends be sure to have an in line fuse near the battery. Personally, I'd fuse both lines for a permanent installation. I didn't check your nozzle but make sure you get an auto shutoff. They really work nice and you'll never have a spill. You can set the flow rate and do something else while it fills your tank.

 

[Dadnatron]

Thanks guys.

The connection is for more than just the pump, although it is the impetus for putting in the connection at this moment. I want to have easy access for anything else 12v I might need as well. This is just the system I was setting up, since I had to have something which would easily connect and disconnect for this pump.

Whatever size I make the fuse needs to be able to handle the load of jumping a dead battery as well as heavier loads such as a portable winch, water pump, etc. This is my concern about adding a fuse to the main line.

What do you recommend for an inline fuse in this situation?

BTW: I fixed the links.

 

[George2615]

I have Anderson plugs mounted on my truck and tractor. I installed one on the 12V fuel pump power wire (a bit overkill) so I can drive up to the tank, plug in the pump and refill the tractor. Another Anderson plug on a set of jumper cables I keep in the truck.

If you want to use jumper cables for a winch, water pump, or boosting another battery, use the cables direct to the battery or through a circuit breaker set up. A fuse will just blow and need to be replaced.

 

[Dadnatron]

George, that is essentially what I am looking to do with the hookup.

Do you have an inline fuse for your Anderson connection on your tractor? And if so, what type? If you have a picture of the type, I'd appreciate it.

I plan on putting Anderson type connections on everything that will be filled by the diesel tank such as my Farm truck. Just for ease of use.

 

[George2615]

No fuse. From Anderson plug to battery on the tractor I installed 2 short length 6 gauge red and black cables. Here's a pic of my plug just above the axle.
For jump starting (if needed) I like to connect jumper cables direct to Batt + and frame ground. For connecting the tractor to the fuel pump, the pump wiring is fuse protected.

 

[Gary Fowler]

When I got my 12V Filrite pump, rather than go with all the plugs and jumpers, I just bought a small 12V automotive battery to power it. I put a Battery Minder on it to keep it charged. I don't have to jerk around with cables to hook up each time I fill my tractor or RTV, the power is always on and ready.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Whatever size I make the fuse needs to be able to handle the load of jumping a dead battery as well as heavier loads such as a portable winch, water pump, etc.

Not gonna happen. Rethink, try another plan. If you want a jumper port, run the heavy cable to your Anderson connector someplace convenient and close, and sheath the hot lead in plastic wire loom for extra protection. No fuse.

If that location isn't good for your pump hookup, do that separately. If it is okay, put the fuse downstream of your Anderson connector. That way your pump setup is fused.

 

[PILOON]

I run 2 Anderson's on my CUT, large one for jumpers that I sheathed in garden hose and clamped carefully and the smaller one for fuel pump and other needs.
The smaller Anderson is protected with an 25 amp automatic reset device.

 

[RjCorazza]

I did the Anderson connector on my pickup truck transfer tank with 10g wire and a 30a circuit breaker fuse. Years ago I put a catastrophic fuse on a 1700w inverter setup in my rv, but even that large fuse (250a ?) Would not work for jumping a vehicle, which is likely drawing much more.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I just did a 15 foot cord with med size clips, just clip the hot to my starter lug were the battery cable connects, the the ground to the frame near it. I use mine on different vehicles and tractors so it's nice to have a universal connection.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you insist on hooking up a permanent jumper cable setup, just use some Tweco welding lead connectors. Install red and black female connectors from battery to a convenient mounting location on your tractor using #4 welding lead. One of our mechanic trucks was set up that way. He carried a set of jumper cables with the male ends on them to connect to the female ends on the tractor and clamps on the end. #4 welding whip cable remains flexible and will carry all the amps you need to jump anything.

 

[Fallon]

If you insist on hooking up a permanent jumper cable setup, just use some Tweco welding lead connectors. Install red and black female connectors from battery to a convenient mounting location on your tractor using #4 welding lead. One of our mechanic trucks was set up that way. He carried a set of jumper cables with the male ends on them to connect to the female ends on the tractor and clamps on the end. #4 welding whip cable remains flexible and will carry all the amps you need to jump anything.

Welding leads are nice, but Anderson connectors are a bit better in this situation. Both leads are guarded from the sides & the plugs are genderless so you can't get an backwards. They are rated at 175 or 350 amps, depending on the size you get. And that's sustained amps. You can generally go over that by a fair bit if it's only briefly (like jumpstarting).

Not sure how much the Tweco ends cost but a pair of Anderson's are $40... And that's 2 sides of 2 cables. Darn cheap.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
Not sure how much the Tweco ends cost but a pair of Anderson's are $40... And that's 2 sides of 2 cables. Darn cheap.

And you can get the off brand that fits/duplicates the Andersons for < $30.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Welding leads are nice, but Anderson connectors are a bit better in this situation. Both leads are guarded from the sides & the plugs are genderless so you can't get an backwards. They are rated at 175 or 350 amps, depending on the size you get. And that's sustained amps. You can generally go over that by a fair bit if it's only briefly (like jumpstarting).

Agreed. It's the right tool for the job.