Gooseneck Trailer for m7040

[carlhwv]

Looking for a goose to hull my tractor between TN and MD. With implements and wet I'm just under 10K. The deck overs I've looked at appear a bit beefier than their between the wheel brethren. My bucket is 84" but don't see that as much of a problem. I like the axle placement of a between the wheel better than the other. Anyway, what has been the experience towing for those with mid sized tractors?

 

[LD1]

What truck do you have to pull with?

And what implements do you plan on towing with the tractor? How wide and long are they?

I have a little smaller MX5100 that I tow on a 25' deck-over. When I tow it with the bushhog and loader both on, it takes up every bit of my 25' trailer, with no room for an additional implement if I wanted. Also, the mower is a 8' twin spindle mower. So takes up the full width of the trailer, and having a drop-deck trailer instead of a deck over.....would cause me issues.

I'd want something at least 30', and a deck over if I was in your shoes. A 14k trailer might be cutting it close by the time you add in the trailer weight. I think the make some 16k trailers that still only have 4 tires. 16k, deckover, 30' would be about ideal.

 

[Rustyiron]

Carl don't short yourself with a "just enough" trailer, esp. for long out of state trips.
There is a big jump in trlr. GVW between a 2 axle/single wheel 14k trailer to "the next size". That moves you into dual's on 2 axles and usually 10k rating on each axle. And don't forget the tire ply rating.
Get the later with a 24'-25' flat with a 5' dovetail and don't look back. Skip even looking at a deck between the wheels.

 

[Deere Dude]

Carl don't short yourself with a "just enough" trailer, esp. for long out of state trips.
There is a big jump in trlr. GVW between a 2 axle/single wheel 14k trailer to "the next size". That moves you into dual's on 2 axles and usually 10k rating on each axle. And don't forget the tire ply rating.
Get the later with a 24'-25' flat with a 5' dovetail and don't look back. Skip even looking at a deck between the wheels.

I have a 16k with single wheels rated at 7k per axle. I have a 28' deck over with 5' dovetails that I used for hauling state top state. I can put about 10,000 over the axles if I recall. For smaller trips I would probably get a 24' just because it is easier to maneuver. But I like the gross weight rating.

 

[Fxfymn]

I have owned both styles to move my tractors and my antique trucks. My low boy (deck between the axles) had a 16,400 lb. gvw with a 24' deck including a 4' dovetail. It was tandem with single 14 ply 17.5" tires. It worked adequately after I changed the brakes out to hydraulic discs.

I upgraded to a 32' hydraulic dovetail that grosses 22,500 pounds that has tandem dual wheels, is a "low pro" model (deck framing dropped down into the frame), and is factory equipped with disc brakes. I am much happier with this trailer because it is so much easier to load/unload, it tracks better without as much chucking, and it brakes better. I was concerned about raising the load up another few inches, but after towing with it I cannot tell the difference, mostly because IMO, it has the dual wheels.

I paid right around $6500 for the low boy brand new and then put another $1500 into the brake upgrade. The trailer was a Kaufman and if you look at their products I would pay close attention to the axles they use to see if the components match the weight rating. The deck over is a PJ that I found lightly used for $10K. ($16.7K new) It is a very well built trailer that uses quality components.

I believe either style would work for you, but I would go with a 30 or 32 foot deck over equipped with tandem duals and disc brakes if I were you. If you can swing the extra bucks I would also recommend the hydraulic dovetail as it makes life a lot easier.

 

[JWR]

Looking for a goose to hull my tractor between TN and MD. With implements and wet I'm just under 10K. The deck overs I've looked at appear a bit beefier than their between the wheel brethren. My bucket is 84" but don't see that as much of a problem. I like the axle placement of a between the wheel better than the other. Anyway, what has been the experience towing for those with mid sized tractors?

Several quick comments: If you are already setup for a goose they are great and essentially prevent any concern about fishtailing. I'm not set up for 5th wheel. Not sure what you pull with. My MF2660 is a bit heavier than your 7040 and I have been very happy with a Pequea 1018 deckover. It is 21ft with a mild beavertail. Sometimes I haul a 7ft bushhog plus the tractor and that uses all of my trailer length and then some. My bucket weighs 1000lbs. My tires will not fit between the wheels/fenders of any trailers I found. The deck-over leaves you a lot more flexible loading and putting unexpected "stuff" on the trailer. From what you describe I see no need for a dual-wheel trailer. Seems like awkward overkill to me. The twin axle Pequea (and many competitors) have 10, 12 and 14,000 GVW versions. Lookout as some of the larger ones get you into both insurance and licensing issues I did not want. Note that PA regs call for brakes on both axles where some states do not. Be sure to get jackstands for the rear to avoid wheelies while loading (though that may be avoided using a goose?) I've been totally happy with the deck-over Pequea. Well made, reliable, easy to use.

 

[ovrszd]

Deckover, dual wheel. Then when you blow that tire hauling butt down the hiway it's only a minor inconvenience versus a potential catastrophy.

 

[Rustyiron]

Deckover, dual wheel. Then when you blow that tire hauling butt down the hiway it's only a minor inconvenience versus a potential catastrophy.

….pretty much my thinking also, especially for trips from MD to TN.
I have such a trailer, but for "around town" use, I've been looking for a nice heavy deck over single wheel d/a bumper pull.

 

[Fxfymn]

Then when you blow that tire hauling butt down the hiway it's only a minor inconvenience versus a potential catastrophy.

No matter which style you buy spend the money on a good set of tire pressure monitors for the trailer. Better to keep from having a blow out than it is to deal with one.

And as I said earlier; get disc brakes, especially if you are going to be hauling 10K plus at highway speeds. Also keep in mind that the number of tires not only change the weight carrying capacity but also dictate how well it brakes.

 

[carlhwv]

Thanks for all of the great replies. Everyone has given me much to consider. I'm towing with a F350 SRW and have about 3500lbs available for pin weight. My main consideration for a tandem axle with duals is being able to position the load on the trailer axle to keep weight out of the bed. If I can achieve this, I think the argument is good for going that way. I like the idea of the extra tires and the support they provide. If I do go with single wheels I will put the best tires and breaks along with tpms. Some of the better single wheel deck over with 17.5 wheels look over built for their 17k gvw and would probably be my choice if I go that route. The Bwise and Belmont plants are right up the road and they both make what look like solid units.

 

[JWR]

It is difficult to "try out" a trailer though you'd sure like to. About best you can do is find an owner, go see his unit and ask questions. Using your F350 I doubt tongue weight would be an issue with reasonable sized trailers to fit an approx 10,000 lb load. I find a handy way to set tongue weight is to use a tape measure and see what unloaded at-rest tongue height is when hitched to the truck. Then roll your load on to the trailer and bring it forward until the rear springs of the truck allow around 6 to 8 inches of squat. Try that a few times and you'll reach a comfort zone for your situation. No doubt the amount of squat is much less for 5th wheel configurations with the tongue being mid chassis.

 

[LD1]

6"-8" of squat measured where?

My 3500 with empty trailer ( guessing around 1000# tongue) only has about 3" till it's on the helper springs. And takes about 4k to put the truck on the helpers.

I think k 6-8" would put most trucks on the bump stops.

 

[mikesee]

Are you only moving the tractor from TN to MD once? If so I think a shiny brand new single-axle trailer would be just fine.

 

[LD1]

Single axle for a 70hp tractor???

 

[ovrszd]

Single axle for a 70hp tractor???

 

[ClaySlayer]

I think he meant single wheel axles as apposition to duals...

 

[JWR]

6"-8" of squat measured where?

My 3500 with empty trailer ( guessing around 1000# tongue) only has about 3" till it's on the helper springs. And takes about 4k to put the truck on the helpers.

I think 6-8" would put most trucks on the bump stops.

I guess I was not specific enough. Once you hitch the empty trailer, pick a spot on the hitch, let's say the bottom of the receiver hitch socket, and measure the distance from there to the ground. Then roll your load onto the trailer and remeasure the distance to the ground. The difference is what I called "squat." I find that a very easy measure to be used for adjusting tongue weight. I may be off on the "6 to 8 inches" as that is from memory and varies from truck to truck. I do not think that 6 to 8 inches of squat put my old 2000 F250 4wd (nor my newer F150 4wd) onto the stops. And as I said, try it a few times and reach your own comfort zone with your truck, your trailer and your circumstance. In my case the empty trailer tongue weight on the hitch is not as much as 1000lb using a Pequea 1018 deckover trailer. Probably half of that. Too heavy to lift by myself but a light load when moving the trailer around using a small Kubota 3pt hitch, etc.

 

[wcampbell47]

Recent changes to the rules / laws in my state have affected the type of license required for tandem dual axle trailers. A CDL is required for gross combination weights (truck, trailer plus load) over 26,000 lbs. A friend hauls a 10,000# skid steer on a trailer with two 8k axles, goose neck just fine. My F350 SRW is a 9900# rated truck. It handles my dump trailer hauling 5 tons just fine. I have been up to 22,000 lbs on the scale with no issues. I don't do that often though. I keep my truck/trailer combos under 26,000 lbs to avoid any issues with the DOT. If you already have your CDL then shouldn't be an issue.

 

[LD1]

I guess I was not specific enough. Once you hitch the empty trailer, pick a spot on the hitch, let's say the bottom of the receiver hitch socket, and measure the distance from there to the ground. Then roll your load onto the trailer and remeasure the distance to the ground. The difference is what I called "squat." I find that a very easy measure to be used for adjusting tongue weight. I may be off on the "6 to 8 inches" as that is from memory and varies from truck to truck. I do not think that 6 to 8 inches of squat put my old 2000 F250 4wd (nor my newer F150 4wd) onto the stops. And as I said, try it a few times and reach your own comfort zone with your truck, your trailer and your circumstance. In my case the empty trailer tongue weight on the hitch is not as much as 1000lb using a Pequea 1018 deckover trailer. Probably half of that. Too heavy to lift by myself but a light load when moving the trailer around using a small Kubota 3pt hitch, etc.

I understood that the first time, and thought thats what you were meening. Maybe its different on different trucks, but I have no where near 8" of squat at my disposal.

If I am hauling a ~15-20k load on the trailer.....I look for 3-4" of squat tops. But that is rare to haul that much.

Normal loading is usually ~10k. A few inches is more than enough tongue weight

 

[Fxfymn]

If you are pulling a "bumper" pull trailer that has that kind of weight you really need to go with a weight distributing hitch which will "shift" the weight forward and help eliminate the rear end sag. You should also use an anti-sway set up as well. The issue isn't the rear end sag, the issue is you are removing weight from the steer axle and increasing the risk of out of control trailer sway.

When you load the trailer you must put about 60% of the weight on the forward part of the trailer to help eliminate sway. A trailer that is loaded light on the front is asking for trouble. Basically you have the tail wagging the dog.

As for the CDL; a CDL is not required unless you are engaged in commerce. If you are moving your own trailer with your own tractor on board a CDL is not required.

Unless you have a cap on the truck I would go with a goose neck trailer. It is easier to hook up, carries the weight over the truck, not behind it, and is a much more stable trailer to tow. I've done both over the years and I would never go back to a tow behind.