Gooseneck Trailer for m7040

[JWR]

It is difficult to "try out" a trailer though you'd sure like to. About best you can do is find an owner, go see his unit and ask questions. Using your F350 I doubt tongue weight would be an issue with reasonable sized trailers to fit an approx 10,000 lb load. I find a handy way to set tongue weight is to use a tape measure and see what unloaded at-rest tongue height is when hitched to the truck. Then roll your load on to the trailer and bring it forward until the rear springs of the truck allow around 6 to 8 inches of squat. Try that a few times and you'll reach a comfort zone for your situation. No doubt the amount of squat is much less for 5th wheel configurations with the tongue being mid chassis.

 

[LD1]

6"-8" of squat measured where?

My 3500 with empty trailer ( guessing around 1000# tongue) only has about 3" till it's on the helper springs. And takes about 4k to put the truck on the helpers.

I think k 6-8" would put most trucks on the bump stops.

 

[mikesee]

Are you only moving the tractor from TN to MD once? If so I think a shiny brand new single-axle trailer would be just fine.

 

[LD1]

Single axle for a 70hp tractor???

 

[ovrszd]

Single axle for a 70hp tractor???

 

[ClaySlayer]

I think he meant single wheel axles as apposition to duals...

 

[JWR]

6"-8" of squat measured where?

My 3500 with empty trailer ( guessing around 1000# tongue) only has about 3" till it's on the helper springs. And takes about 4k to put the truck on the helpers.

I think 6-8" would put most trucks on the bump stops.

I guess I was not specific enough. Once you hitch the empty trailer, pick a spot on the hitch, let's say the bottom of the receiver hitch socket, and measure the distance from there to the ground. Then roll your load onto the trailer and remeasure the distance to the ground. The difference is what I called "squat." I find that a very easy measure to be used for adjusting tongue weight. I may be off on the "6 to 8 inches" as that is from memory and varies from truck to truck. I do not think that 6 to 8 inches of squat put my old 2000 F250 4wd (nor my newer F150 4wd) onto the stops. And as I said, try it a few times and reach your own comfort zone with your truck, your trailer and your circumstance. In my case the empty trailer tongue weight on the hitch is not as much as 1000lb using a Pequea 1018 deckover trailer. Probably half of that. Too heavy to lift by myself but a light load when moving the trailer around using a small Kubota 3pt hitch, etc.

 

[wcampbell47]

Recent changes to the rules / laws in my state have affected the type of license required for tandem dual axle trailers. A CDL is required for gross combination weights (truck, trailer plus load) over 26,000 lbs. A friend hauls a 10,000# skid steer on a trailer with two 8k axles, goose neck just fine. My F350 SRW is a 9900# rated truck. It handles my dump trailer hauling 5 tons just fine. I have been up to 22,000 lbs on the scale with no issues. I don't do that often though. I keep my truck/trailer combos under 26,000 lbs to avoid any issues with the DOT. If you already have your CDL then shouldn't be an issue.

 

[LD1]

I guess I was not specific enough. Once you hitch the empty trailer, pick a spot on the hitch, let's say the bottom of the receiver hitch socket, and measure the distance from there to the ground. Then roll your load onto the trailer and remeasure the distance to the ground. The difference is what I called "squat." I find that a very easy measure to be used for adjusting tongue weight. I may be off on the "6 to 8 inches" as that is from memory and varies from truck to truck. I do not think that 6 to 8 inches of squat put my old 2000 F250 4wd (nor my newer F150 4wd) onto the stops. And as I said, try it a few times and reach your own comfort zone with your truck, your trailer and your circumstance. In my case the empty trailer tongue weight on the hitch is not as much as 1000lb using a Pequea 1018 deckover trailer. Probably half of that. Too heavy to lift by myself but a light load when moving the trailer around using a small Kubota 3pt hitch, etc.

I understood that the first time, and thought thats what you were meening. Maybe its different on different trucks, but I have no where near 8" of squat at my disposal.

If I am hauling a ~15-20k load on the trailer.....I look for 3-4" of squat tops. But that is rare to haul that much.

Normal loading is usually ~10k. A few inches is more than enough tongue weight

 

[Fxfymn]

If you are pulling a "bumper" pull trailer that has that kind of weight you really need to go with a weight distributing hitch which will "shift" the weight forward and help eliminate the rear end sag. You should also use an anti-sway set up as well. The issue isn't the rear end sag, the issue is you are removing weight from the steer axle and increasing the risk of out of control trailer sway.

When you load the trailer you must put about 60% of the weight on the forward part of the trailer to help eliminate sway. A trailer that is loaded light on the front is asking for trouble. Basically you have the tail wagging the dog.

As for the CDL; a CDL is not required unless you are engaged in commerce. If you are moving your own trailer with your own tractor on board a CDL is not required.

Unless you have a cap on the truck I would go with a goose neck trailer. It is easier to hook up, carries the weight over the truck, not behind it, and is a much more stable trailer to tow. I've done both over the years and I would never go back to a tow behind.