Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,241  
I have one of the cheap Chinese 5' flail mowers and I would have no problem using it for what you're talking about but it would be very slow going. When I chop up a ~2" diameter tree I will raise the mower up, back over it until the top is in the mower, then pull forward and lower the mower to chop it up from the top down. That would take a long time with a big area of six foot deep brush.

Thanks for the response. What mower do you have? The time isn't a big consideration. Mowing the heavy brush is a one time thing. After that it will be mowing the clover etc. I am concerned about seriously damaging the mower with some of the rocks and junk I may encounter during the process, parts availability etc.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,242  
Thanks for the response. What mower do you have? The time isn't a big consideration. Mowing the heavy brush is a one time thing. After that it will be mowing the clover etc. I am concerned about seriously damaging the mower with some of the rocks and junk I may encounter during the process, parts availability etc.

I think I would look at using a brush hog the first time to knock down the bigger stuff and the rocks won't be as hard on it. Get it knocked down and then get the rocks out.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,243  
A little update on my old unknown brand flail.

I was checking the drum over again as there was a big vibration. I got to checking the bearings out and one side would seem to jump a little. I took it off and noticed it was pretty sloppy on the shaft. The other side was a real pain. The bearing seemed to be good but I had decided to take the drum out for balancing. The bearing had to come off for that. It was seized on there and I had to cut it off. Got to looking online and it was about a $450 bearing.

I mic'ed the shaft on both ends at 1 7/16'' and the sloppy bearing was 1 1/2''. Someone had installed a wrong sized bearing. I've got new bearings on the way and the drum is at a shop checking balance.

I'm afraid this isn't going to help my problem of grass catching on the blades though.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,244  
Thanks for the response. What mower do you have? The time isn't a big consideration. Mowing the heavy brush is a one time thing. After that it will be mowing the clover etc. I am concerned about seriously damaging the mower with some of the rocks and junk I may encounter during the process, parts availability etc.

I have this:

http://www.value-leader.com/60-flail-mower-efg155-on-sale-100-off/

I'm pretty hard on it. Some bolts have worked loose over time and I knocked a few knives off clearing some pasture for a friend of mine. I also mangled the belt guard when I got too close to a tree. Overall I'm happy with it. I paid $1050 shipped, so I didn't think I could lose.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,245  
I have this:

http://www.value-leader.com/60-flail-mower-efg155-on-sale-100-off/

I'm pretty hard on it. Some bolts have worked loose over time and I knocked a few knives off clearing some pasture for a friend of mine. I also mangled the belt guard when I got too close to a tree. Overall I'm happy with it. I paid $1050 shipped, so I didn't think I could lose.

They also carry this model that I have been looking at, http://www.value-leader.com/57-ditch-bank-flail-mower-w-hammers-installed-agl145/ , assuming the HP listed is PTO. If it is tractor HP I might consider the 165 model. Is anyone familiar with the Farmer Helper Machinery brand (actually have one). Also one other question is if I get the grass blade model, can it be converted the the hammer flail later after the blades wear out, of should I just get the hammer flail to start. Thanks
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,246  
I'm pretty hard on it. Some bolts have worked loose over time and I knocked a few knives off clearing some pasture for a friend of mine. I also mangled the belt guard when I got too close to a tree. Overall I'm happy with it. I paid $1050 shipped, so I didn't think I could lose.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, I am also considering one of their mowers the 77-hydraulic-offset-flail-mower-efgch195

I think I'd prefer the woodmaxx FM_78H_Flail_Mower_p/fm because it has the rear door that can be opened in heavy conditions.

I mowed a bit today with the rotary cutter, and I'll get it all knocked down with that. I was going to sell it, but in the end it will do a job and I'll get the flail this fall or over the winter.

I am surprised that no one here has tried the woodmaxx or even seen one. I'd like to hear what others think of it before I pull the trigger on it...
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,247  
What is the rule of thumb for Required HP per foot of flail mower?? looking for one for My BX25 ( 17HP @ PTO)

Cheers

Roger
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,248  
I don't have a rule of thumb but there are a couple of things to look out for especially when buying an older flail. As a point of reference, I bought my Mott 72 from a guy who had just acquired it and refurbished it before putting it on his tractor. He had a Kubota BX25 and it was just too much weight for the hitch (935#).

1) Make sure you know the life capacity of your 3PTH and keep the weight below that.

2) As far as width I wouldn't try to get anything much wider than the outside width of your rear tires.

Having said that most of the light to medium duty flails would probably work well for you.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,249  
What is the rule of thumb for Required HP per foot of flail mower?? looking for one for My BX25 ( 17HP @ PTO)

Cheers

Roger

=========================================================================


Hello Roger,
You need to do much more homework for your intended purchase if you are serious about
owning a flail mower and and comparing costs to investing in an ACRE EASE unit that is towed
and motorized.

The rule of thumb is simple; there is none because your terrain
and amount of heavy brush, good sod or the amount you can afford to spend
is an unknown.

Do not expect to run a flail mower quickly because heavy brush will burn up a set of belts quickly too.


With your mule an integral mounted four footer is all your going to manage with if you have
heavy brush or good sod for that matter. That is coming from my 30 plus years of owning
and operating them.

A four foot cut Caroni, Maschio or Vrisimo flail mower will work well for you.
You have to decide how much you can afford to spend as the flail mower will outlast
your current mule and the next one and you have to decied what type of finish you want.

A finish flail or rough cut flail mower with side slicer knives will cut everything up and you will
be able to recut the clippings to make them degrade faster.

If I sell you a towed motorized unit with 4 high floatation wheels and cup and cone wheel bearings
you will want a four wheel arrangement to make it easier to operate and tow and you can also
tow it with a heavy RTV or small SUV or 4 wheel drive pickup.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #3,250  
Personally I love my 7ish foot old Ford 917 flail behind my 5' wide L3200. I do have to run a little slower than with my 5' rotary, but cover more ground. I can also only crush 1 tire of grass rather than 2 because of the offset. Makes for less unmowed tire tracks.

As others have said 3pt lift capacity is the defining limit. To a large degree you can just go slower if you are a little short on HP. You loose a little maneuverability with a bigger mower, but the efficiency is more important to me personally.
 
 

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