Kubota BH90 backhoe challenges

[Michael_C]

I'm using my 2' wide bucket on the backhoe to dig a 3' wide trench (in two passes). The first pass goes fine, but when I try to take a second pass cutting a 1 foot wide swath, the bucket tends to veer off to the side, and pulls the tractor (Kubota L5030) out of position. The stabilizer pads have four holes, and I wondered if taking advantage of the holes and mounting short bolts to try to gain traction would be a good idea, or present it's own set of problems. I'm working in clay soil, and noticed the cleats were completely packed in - I cleaned them out, but expect them to cake up fairly quickly.

Anyone have a similar experience and find a good solution, or tried using the bolt holes and experienced issues?

 

[bspeedy]

I would dig all three feet wide simultaneously. Will save you time and require less moving of the tractor. If you've already completed the 2' wide part, this advice is no help.

 

[Michael_C]

I would dig all three feet wide simultaneously. Will save you time and require less moving of the tractor. If you've already completed the 2' wide part, this advice is no help.

I am not sure if you're saying to go with a 3' bucket, or whether to take a 2' bite, then the remaining 1' bite and repeat the process until I go the desired depth, and then advance the tractor. The 2' bucket is my widest bucket.
I am digging 3' wide before advancing the tractor. I have marked a line on the dirt on the right side of the trench. My first cut is with the right side of the bucket on this line, and second cut is the remaining 1'. Half the bucket width is doing the work when I'm doing the 1' remaining cut, which causes the bucket to veer towards the right (where the 2' cut had previously been made). If the cleats on the stabilizer pads weren't packed with clay, they would dig in better, and the tractor wouldn't be pushed to the side.

That's why I wondered if I added four bolts per stabilizer pad would help the situation, or just create a new problem.

 

[mfl_jr]

I'm using my 2' wide bucket on the backhoe to dig a 3' wide trench (in two passes). The first pass goes fine, but when I try to take a second pass cutting a 1 foot wide swath, the bucket tends to veer off to the side, and pulls the tractor (Kubota L5030) out of position.

This is a function of having more backhoe than tractor is this particular set of circumstances.

What I mean is, the hoe i strong enough to drag the tractor and the tractor is light enough to get drug around instead of force the bucket through the soil.

Your best solution is to take smaller 'bites'. For example, if your ditch is going to be 18" deep then take 2 bites 9" deep or even 3 bites at 6" deep to get there.

Don't bother trying to 'nail' your tractor to the ground through the stabilizer pad holes or anything like that, it'll just cause you more frustration and leave the ground more tore-up.

Take smaller bites and enjoy the fact that you aren't doing any of the work with a shovel!

Good luck,
Mike

 

[Michael_C]

This is a function of having more backhoe than tractor is this particular set of circumstances.

What I mean is, the hoe i strong enough to drag the tractor and the tractor is light enough to get drug around instead of force the bucket through the soil.

Your best solution is to take smaller 'bites'. For example, if your ditch is going to be 18" deep then take 2 bites 9" deep or even 3 bites at 6" deep to get there.

Don't bother trying to 'nail' your tractor to the ground through the stabilizer pad holes or anything like that, it'll just cause you more frustration and leave the ground more tore-up.

Take smaller bites and enjoy the fact that you aren't doing any of the work with a shovel!

Good luck,
Mike

Thanks for the thoughts on using the stabilizer pad holes - Maybe I need to add more weight - looks like a big meal night tonight :~}.
I had reduced the depth of each cut with no big improvement, but will play with it a bit more to see how shallow the cut needs to be to "stay put".

 

[Code54]

If you don't have the rear tires loaded that may help you out a bit.

 

[Michael_C]

If you don't have the rear tires loaded that may help you out a bit.

Not sure what you mean?

 

[4570Man]

I'd put my 16" bucket on and dig the ditch in two full passes. Obviously 16x2 doesn't equal 36, but it would still work. I can't imagine bolts through those holes would help much.

 

[Code54]

Not sure what you mean?

Sorry, that was worded poorly.

If you load your rear tires it will help keep the backhoe from pulling and pushing the tractor around as much. The extra weight of the fluid near the backhoe really makes a difference in the ability of the machine to bit into the dirt instead of the hoe lifting and pulling the machine.

 

[Hammer Head]

I would try offsetting the tractor so you are digging at a sleight angle. You will have a better bite and it will provide some compensation.
You may also look at the side cutting edge of your bucket.
I have also in some very hard dirt situations had to rake the bucket back and forth with teeth down.

 

[tractchores]

Not surf you're lifting the rear wheels off the ground with the stabilizers or not. I find unless you're on very firm ground the stabilizers don't have a ton of traction. To combat this I put the stabilizers down just enough to take most of the weight off the rear, but make sure the rear tires are still firmly down and adding traction. I also lower the bucket and sometimes dig it in a tad (lower the edge) which can help. Otherwise you could take more smaller bites

 

[AlmostThere]

A thought from someone with little experience (that would be me), would it help to just make the trench 4 feet wide or close to it? That may help with the lateral forces.

 

[newbury]

From John Deere:

Preparing to Operate Backhoe
1. Back machine close to desired digging location on a hard, level surface.

2. Lock park brake.

3. Lower loader and boom to the ground until front tires are off ground.

4. Pivot and lock operator seat into position facing to the rear.

5. Lower stabilizers until rear tires are off ground and machine is level.

6. Remove swing lock pin and store in holder.

7. Unlock boom lock.

8. Check control lever response.

Get it up in the air, loader down.

 

[txdon]

If you don't have the rear tires loaded that may help you out a bit.

No don't do this. It says not to in the BH90 owner's manual.

Page 6 of the owners manual - operating instructions
Ballast
"Important:
Do not add liquid ballast or any other weights to the front tires.
While BH90 backhoe is installed on the tractor, liquid ballast in the rear tires should be removed."

Another word of caution: do not leave you BH under a tree. (Ask me how I know)

 

[txdon]

From John Deere:


Get it up in the air, loader down.

Again read the Kubota BH90 Owner's Manual
Page 9
"1. Lower the stabilizers and remove the weight of the backhoe from the rear wheels. However, one or both rear tires should remain in light contact with the ground. This will give the backhoe the widest possible stance and lower the center of gravity.
If the rear tires are raised too high, digging depth will be reduced and undue stress will be exerted on the backhoe frame components.
2. The loader bucket should be lowered . . . .The cutting edge should be lowered vertically into the ground surface. This will assist the stabilizers, not allowing the unit to shift while excavating. . . . ."

 

[Michael_C]

I'd put my 16" bucket on and dig the ditch in two full passes. Obviously 16x2 doesn't equal 36, but it would still work. I can't imagine bolts through those holes would help much.

Thanks for the suggestion - Only have a 12" and 24", but see the benefit of going with a bucket smaller than 1/2 the trench width. Worth searching for another bucket.

 

[Michael_C]

From John Deere:


Get it up in the air, loader down.

Do you have the loader "digging in"? I have done all of the suggestions, but not with the loader digging in - may not have done all at the same time - will try all at same time with loader digging in to ground.

Thanks for the prep list.

 

[Michael_C]

Another word of caution: do not leave you BH under a tree. (Ask me how I know)

Ouch! Thanks for the caution on ballast.

 

[Michael_C]

A thought from someone with little experience (that would be me), would it help to just make the trench 4 feet wide or close to it? That may help with the lateral forces.

The trenches are for geothermal loops and are 5' deep and 500' long - lots of material to be moving. I did a section 20' long that was 42-44" wide, and didn't see as much of an issue, so the 48" wide thought might have merit. Time consuming process is the only downside, so would like to avoid if I can.

 

[Michael_C]

Again read the Kubota BH90 Owner's Manual
Page 9
"1. Lower the stabilizers and remove the weight of the backhoe from the rear wheels. However, one or both rear tires should remain in light contact with the ground. This will give the backhoe the widest possible stance and lower the center of gravity.
If the rear tires are raised too high, digging depth will be reduced and undue stress will be exerted on the backhoe frame components.
2. The loader bucket should be lowered . . . .The cutting edge should be lowered vertically into the ground surface. This will assist the stabilizers, not allowing the unit to shift while excavating. . . . ."

Looks like I need to locate a manual - backhoe came with the tractor (used), but only had the manual on the tractor. Thanks for including in the post!