Given an Air Compressor Today

[TractorGuy]

Won't they get bent?

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/photos/107314-photo-posting-how.html

I'm going to make this dual stage (unless someone can convince me it's a bad idea). The current pressure switch is on at 80psi with an adjustable max up to 120psi. Problem is that I need consistent 100psi for some of my uses.

I've ordered another switch that has a 30psi on/off range (fixed differential) that is adjustable to a 150psi max.

I've also ordered a "piggyback" regulator/filter to put on.

My plan is to set the switch to come on at 110psi and off at 140psi then use the piggyback regulator to bring the pressure down to whatever I need.

The only down side to this I can see is with high volume / low pressure (high CFM) situations, the motor could "rapid cycle."

Any thoughts?

The terms single stage and two stage are in the design of the pump. A single stage pumps air directly into the tank regardless of the number of cylinders. On a two stage compressor one or more cylinders pumps into the other cylinder/s, then compresses the air further into the tank. Kind of like supercharging. You can't change a single stage pump into a two stage.

Most single stage compressors are not capable of reliably producing over 120 PSIG. Two stage compressors are generally required to reliably achieve pressures to 150-175 PSIG.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/photos/107314-photo-posting-how.html



The terms single stage and two stage are in the design of the pump. A single stage pumps air directly into the tank regardless of the number of cylinders. On a two stage compressor one or more cylinders pumps into the other cylinder/s, then compresses the air further into the tank. Kind of like supercharging. You can't change a single stage pump into a two stage.

Most single stage compressors are not capable of reliably producing over 120 PSIG. Two stage compressors are generally required to reliably achieve pressures to 150-175 PSIG.

So maybe I mean a 2 stage regulator?

 

[prichard]

I don't see the issue. Pressure falls in the tank based on air consumption. So you would cycle the same regardless of regulator pressure for the same volume of air. If concerned get a fully adjustable switch rather than fixed.

Why a "piggyback regulator"? What do you mean by that?

 

[IceStationZebra]

I have run two regulators inline when I needed a very consistent pressure. Set the first regulator a little higher than you need. This keeps the input to the 2nd regulator much more consistent so it will keep the output ±1psi or better. One caution with this is that all the fittings/adapters need to flow more air than what you need, otherwise the pressure drops are going to mess with your output. Can't remember if it helped, but I separated my regulators by a couple feet so the hose and volume created a little accumulator affect.

Curious, what are you doing that requires a constant 100psi? My application was cycle testing components and I needed a very consistent force.

ISZ

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Nothing that exact for sure. Mostly finsh and pin nailing where sometimes I adjust to very specific depth. If I set to 110psi, 80psi will definitely be a problem. I really just need one regulator and a better pump switch. That's really what I'm doing.

 

[LittleBill21]

Nothing that exact for sure. Mostly finsh and pin nailing where sometimes I adjust to very specific depth. If I set to 110psi, 80psi will definitely be a problem. I really just need one regulator and a better pump switch. That's really what I'm doing.

stuff like that or with painting, i have a mini regulator right at the gun for easy adjustment, also lets me know if i am outrunning the compressor

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I looked at that but thought I'd break it. Not a problem?

 

[prichard]

I'd run the tank at around 125 - 150. Set regulator at 100 - 110 whatever your max is. Run your distribution network and make an inline regulator to connect in at the outlet before my hose. That way I can connect the regulator to any outlet and it'd be close to the work.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

My distribution network is a retractable hose real and I feel pretty fancy.
My FIL is a master woodworker and has a setup as you describe.

 

[5030]

Always keep in mind that, the higher the pressure setting is, the less life the compressor will have. All my compressors (I have 3 plumbed together for receiver capacity) are 2 stage rated for 175 psi, but, I have them all cut back to the maximum pressure I require for the highest pressure application +10 pounds static, which in my case is 130 psi.

The higher the static pressure is, the more heat the compressor develops, the more entrained moisture is in the compressed air and the more condensate drops out as the air cools in the receiver. heat is the number one killer of any compressor with poor maintenance running a close second. People get a compressor and forget about it. Intake filters need cleaned and oil needs changed...regularly and not motor oil either, but a compressor specific oil, either reciprocating for a piston unit or rotary for a screw compressor. I have both btw. I use Mobil Rarus reciprocating compressor oil in the piston units and mineral oil in the rotary.

The third most common failure is the receiver rusts through because the owner never drained the condensate and it corroded the receiver inside. I drain my units daily. My rotary has a self draining petcock that is electrical and drains itself at pre determined intervals.

Never attempt to weld a rusted receiver. Thats a recipe for an explosion.

 

[5030]

My distribution network is a retractable hose real and I feel pretty fancy.
My FIL is a master woodworker and has a setup as you describe.

I'm a bit more advanced than you are, but then I have a working machine shop. My main air lines are all in 1" black pipe with 3/4" drops and 2 QD fittings on each drop with a condensate drain and drip leg at the bottom of each. I have a combined receiver capacity of 300 gallons static. Just about enough for my use.

All the piping in the shop is clearly labelled as to content, natural gas lines for the heaters are labelled 'Gas', water lines are labelled 'water' and compressed air is labelled 'compressed air' per OSHA regs, in the correct colors, Gas is red label, water is blue label and air is yellow label and each line has a label every 10 running feet and at each point of use outlet. Thats the law btw.

 

[prichard]

I figured there would be some piping involved since I wouldn't want to work standing next to that thing. It ain't gonna be quiet.

 

[SPYDERLK]

The higher the static pressure is, the more heat the compressor develops, the more entrained moisture is in the compressed air and the more condensate drops out as the air cools in the receiver. heat is the number one killer of any compressor with poor maintenance running a close second. People get a compressor and forget about it. Intake filters need cleaned and oil needs changed...regularly and not motor oil either, but a compressor specific oil, either reciprocating for a piston unit or rotary for a screw compressor. I have both btw. I use Mobil Rarus reciprocating compressor oil in the piston units and mineral oil in the rotary.

More water is not entrained. -- The water is inherent in the air. Compress an amt of air and it will hold less water at its original temperature. Water falls out of the compressed air cooling back to its original T in the tank. More water falls out if its compressed more/ higher pressure.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Let nip this tangent in the bud. Lol. It's been my experience that discussions of physics or physical chemistry go incredibly poorly on TBN. (remember the last 3pt ballast thread? :banghead
But point taken from both of you. :thumbsup:

 

[5030]

Let nip this tangent in the bud. Lol. It's been my experience that discussions of physics or physical chemistry go incredibly poorly on TBN. (remember the last 3pt ballast thread? :banghead
But point taken from both of you. :thumbsup:

The techinical aspect of moisture in my air supply really don't mean squat to me. Everything gets drained daily and what isn't automatic is manual anyway. What I'm alluding to is lack of condensate removal and what happens to the receiver... it eventually rusts out. I've seen more than a few compressors outlive their receivers.

 

[5030]

I figured there would be some piping involved since I wouldn't want to work standing next to that thing. It ain't gonna be quiet.

me, I kind of like the sound of a reciprocating compressor, especially a big one, chugging along. Rotaries whine and hum, not at all pleasing to the ear.

 

[5030]

Let nip this tangent in the bud. Lol. It's been my experience that discussions of physics or physical chemistry go incredibly poorly on TBN. (remember the last 3pt ballast thread? :banghead
But point taken from both of you. :thumbsup:

That thread, the one I removed from my subscribed threads list. I remember well. Too many Einsteins and not enough practical applicators.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Ya, I was really surprised how inoffensive the compressor is. I may sing a different tune at the end of a long day but I usually have hearing protection/music on anyway.

 

[5030]

Ya, I was really surprised how inoffensive the compressor is. I may sing a different tune at the end of a long day but I usually have hearing protection/music on anyway.

My big one is a Saylor-Beal pressure lubricated 2 stage, inter cooled and after cooled, 15 horse and it runs slow. Makes a nice steady chuga-chug sound. Very pleasant to listen too. I got it used and rebuilt it, must be 50 years old.

 

[murphy1244]

My big one is a Saylor-Beal pressure lubricated 2 stage, inter cooled and after cooled, 15 horse and it runs slow. Makes a nice steady chuga-chug sound. Very pleasant to listen too. I got it used and rebuilt it, must be 50 years old.

What do you need with all that air for?