Inverter for truck

[DFB]

And according to your link James the individual cells of the 7.2v battery assembly match up with to the 4/5 sub C measurement.

 

[k0ua]

And according to your link James the individual cells of the 7.2v battery assembly match up with to the 4/5 sub C measurement.

OK, What you have to decide is can you put together a pack cheap enough and is the unknown value resistor still viable or is cooked enough to be unusable. Did you put an ohm meter on it? Of course we are not sure what the value should be unless we can get a schematic or another owner to measure his. OR. do as your first instincts was and pitch it and go to your nearest box store or go web shopping.

 

[DFB]

I have enough new drills right now...I don't NEED to go shopping anytime soon :laughing:

2000K its a 003 measurement

Now have the bottom of the 18v they are sub-c

 

[Soundguy]

yup, the ones with resistors or thermistors are always a dicey as to whether they are good or not.

 

[DFB]

New resistors are still available. Assuming its an accurate depiction and not just generic.

Does anybody care to try to decipher the value from the photo?

Resistor [646627-8] for Makita Power Tool | eReplacement Parts


My meter shows a reading of 3.82 on the 200 scale

(I had listed a wrong measurement scale above)


That other component is a diode, and that seems to measure ok.

 

[k0ua]

New resistors are still available. Assuming its an accurate depiction and not just generic.

Does anybody care to try to decipher the value from the photo?

Resistor [646627-8] for Makita Power Tool | eReplacement Parts


My meter shows a reading of 3.82 on the 200 scale

(I had listed a wrong measurement scale above)


That other component is a diode, and that seems to measure ok.

In my best estimation. the picture you linked to is a 5 band color code, of a .5 ohm resistor at 5 percent tolerance here is a chart you can try your hand at it. I think the first band is "none" the second band is black so a zero, the third band is green so 5 and the multiplier band is gold so a .1 multiplier with a 5 percent tolerance. I could be wrong. But black cannot be the first color nor can gold. Gold can only be a multiplier or tolerance band. So I believe the first band is "none" See what you think. I have posted both the 4 band and 5 band calculators.

4 Band Resistor Color Code Calculator and Chart | DigiKey Electronics

5 Band Resistor Color Code Calculator and Chart | DigiKey Electronics

4 Band Resistor Color Code Calculator and Chart | DigiKey Electronics

 

[Soundguy]

Or 1.5ohms if brn grn gld gld 5%

 

[k0ua]

Or 1.5ohms if brn grn gld gld 5%

yeah, could be. we might not be able to see the brown band on the end ... yeah this is possible too.

 

[k0ua]

here is another Makita resistor picture, showing brown, green, gold, gold. So 1.5 ohms.

Amazon.com: Makita 646627-8 Resistor: Home Improvement

The really fun part is they want 12 bucks and some change for a 10 cent part.

 

[DFB]

Wow you guys see more than I do!

Could it be possibly oriented the other way in the photo ,

How does my measurement reading fit into all this? :laughing:

 

[DFB]

here is another Makita resistor picture, showing brown, green, gold, gold. So 1.5 ohms.

Amazon.com: Makita 646627-8 Resistor: Home Improvement

The really fun part is they want 12 bucks and some change for a 10 cent part.

Much better photo for enlargement James

Soundguy hit it right on

 

[k0ua]

Wow you guys see more than I do!

Could it be possibly oriented the other way in the photo ,

How does my measurement reading fit into all this? :laughing:

your resistor is damaged by your measurement of north of 3 ohms. you should replace it if you intend to go on with this project. But I wouldn't pay more than about a dollar for one. It looked to be a 1/2 watt resistor. Here are some for 10 cents each.. or 85 cents for 10

CFR-50JB-52-1R5 Yageo | Resistors | DigiKey

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto, buy a cheap, don't spend a bundle.

I've still got those old paperboard cheat cards with dials in them to figure inductor and resistor codes. Them things must be 30ys old.

 

[DFB]

I've bought from Digi Key before they're good even with shipping cost. They have relays that match up with my Yanmar built JD

This little endeavor is getting more expensive the longer it goes on! :laughing:

My thanks to both you and Soundguy for all the knowledge here

 

[k0ua]

Well, we ain't saying you SHOULD rebuild it. I am not even sure I would invest in the batteries with a really old drill. The resistor, well that is no big deal. But at least if you WANT to rebuild it you have more options now. Yeah I have bought a lot of stuff from digi-key and some from mouser too.

 

[JohnMacca]

All electronic devices run on magic smoke. When you let the magic smoke out of them. they don't work very well any more. So always try to keep the smoke inside. This is electronic wisdom from a guy that has been working with electronic devices for a long time.

There is plenty of funny stuff around the "magic smoke" leaking out.

I can recall seeing jars of replacement smoke for Lucas wiring for sale. Had an official looking label, complete with a part number. (Lucas Electrics - AKA The Prince of Darkness:laughing

 

[Soundguy]

Well, we ain't saying you SHOULD rebuild it. I am not even sure I would invest in the batteries with a really old drill. The resistor, well that is no big deal. But at least if you WANT to rebuild it you have more options now. Yeah I have bought a lot of stuff from digi-key and some from mouser too.

agreed, all would depend on condition of the chuck, the motor and the bearings, and would depend on if i had other drills too

I was given a brand new, in the box craftsman cordless a while back. never opened, but years old. must have been when they first came out.. someone bought one and shelved it box still factory sealed. I got it after a yardsale, helping someone clean up, free.

The nicad pack was deader than a doornail. a new pack was as much money as a cheap 18v drill and battery.

I almost opted to rebattery it, but instead had another idea. At the same time in the shop was a 25' extension cord with bad ends. I cut them ends off and stuck spades on one side and gator clips on the other as a test.

I made the internal connections to the drill handle and strain relieved the cord, then hooked up to my truck battery.

Drill worked GREAT. I tested with the same type of spade bits I use on the farm to drill fence posts for hinges. Those tend to depleat my battery powered drills faster than I'd like.

So now I have a 'truck drill' that pretty much never has a dead battery.

 

[Soundguy]

Well, we ain't saying you SHOULD rebuild it. I am not even sure I would invest in the batteries with a really old drill. The resistor, well that is no big deal. But at least if you WANT to rebuild it you have more options now. Yeah I have bought a lot of stuff from digi-key and some from mouser too.

agreed, all would depend on condition of the chuck, the motor and the bearings, and would depend on if i had other drills too

I was given a brand new, in the box craftsman cordless a while back. never opened, but years old. must have been when they first came out.. someone bought one and shelved it box still factory sealed. I got it after a yardsale, helping someone clean up, free.

The nicad pack was deader than a doornail. a new pack was as much money as a cheap 18v drill and battery.

I almost opted to rebattery it, but instead had another idea. At the same time in the shop was a 25' extension cord with bad ends. I cut them ends off and stuck spades on one side and gator clips on the other as a test.

I made the internal connections to the drill handle and strain relieved the cord, then hooked up to my truck battery.

Drill worked GREAT. I tested with the same type of spade bits I use on the farm to drill fence posts for hinges. Those tend to depleat my battery powered drills faster than I'd like.

So now I have a 'truck drill' that pretty much never has a dead battery.

 

[DFB]

You know on one hand it is a "classic" drill. Overall its well built tool all steel gears and nothing nylon.

But hey it was like $60 those 25 years or more ago. I can still remember when I bought it I was very happy with it then it was my very first Makita tool.

Not very powerful but lightweight and real comfortable in the hand. Nice little woodworking tool and handy around the house. Just a drill though and no clutch for screwdriving. Top RPM is only 600 with a 3/8" keyed steel chuck. This would be the 3rd time around for batteries. Be a fun little project of no dire necessity to me to get done..so its back together and back on the shelf right now. :laughing:

 

[ultrarunner]

agreed, all would depend on condition of the chuck, the motor and the bearings, and would depend on if i had other drills too

I was given a brand new, in the box craftsman cordless a while back. never opened, but years old. must have been when they first came out.. someone bought one and shelved it box still factory sealed. I got it after a yardsale, helping someone clean up, free.

The nicad pack was deader than a doornail. a new pack was as much money as a cheap 18v drill and battery.

I almost opted to rebattery it, but instead had another idea. At the same time in the shop was a 25' extension cord with bad ends. I cut them ends off and stuck spades on one side and gator clips on the other as a test.

I made the internal connections to the drill handle and strain relieved the cord, then hooked up to my truck battery.

Drill worked GREAT. I tested with the same type of spade bits I use on the farm to drill fence posts for hinges. Those tend to depleat my battery powered drills faster than I'd like.

So now I have a 'truck drill' that pretty much never has a dead battery.

Great idea... never would have occurred to me.