Inverter for truck

[DFB]

Soldered and not removeable? Please.. and the earth is flat and the sun revolves around the earth..

rechargeable nicad, nimh an LI batteries are readily available, including sub-class size batteries.

Not removable relating to having a quick disconnect feature like new tools offer by switching battery packs with a push of a button

Soundguy you think then its worth purchasing batteries again on this old tool. I already replaced them once. I have not bothered to even look for any so cant say what they may cost.

 

[k0ua]

Not removable relating to having a quick disconnect feature like new tools offer by switching battery packs with a push of a button

Soundguy you think then its worth purchasing batteries again on this old tool. I already replaced them once. I have not bothered to even look for any so cant say what they may cost.

Just open it up and replace the sub C cells in the drill.
Amazon.com: sub c nicad batteries

 

[k0ua]

Not removable relating to having a quick disconnect feature like new tools offer by switching battery packs with a push of a button

Soundguy you think then its worth purchasing batteries again on this old tool. I already replaced them once. I have not bothered to even look for any so cant say what they may cost.

Just open it up and replace the sub C cells in the drill.
Amazon.com: sub c nicad batteries

 

[Soundguy]

Not removable relating to having a quick disconnect feature like new tools offer by switching battery packs with a push of a button

Soundguy you think then its worth purchasing batteries again on this old tool. I already replaced them once. I have not bothered to even look for any so cant say what they may cost.

I often repalce batteries in devices that have those shrink wrapped 'non replaceable' soldered in packs.

Last ones I did used sub-c sized bats. The new bats I purchased had 50% more MAH capacity as the originals, and cost around 1$ per cell, depending. ( actual price range is .59-.99 depending on size, capacity and chemistry. ). You can get them with tack welded tabs for soldering or not. The place I buy from charges a flat 1$ fee to tab them. thus if I buy 6 bats to redo a pack, it costs about 7$ +tax if I do local pickup and about 9$ shipped. ( shipping adds$ but no tax, and then easier to find the .60 cent cells vs .99, so it almost evens out.. on large needs of 7+ batteries, i order, if it is 6 or less I go local ).

The wife uses 2 battery powered 'electric brooms' to neat up the tile floor. We keep one at the long ends of the house, opposite sides.

Battery packs from the maker are 36$ plus shipping, each!.

I made both packs for about 15$.. and they have more capacity...

I split the old shrink wrap and soldered the bats into the same orientation, re applied the factory shrink, and added a couple winds of black tape . good to go.

If your pack has a thermal sensor, you just have to keep that in mind when rebuilding it!

 

[DFB]

Well I just googled the battery pack at least 6 different places have it for sale and the price ranged from $32-$44 with the average price of about $40 before shipping.

Makita 678103-4 7.2 Battery for 6076DW / 6176DW

But I cant really justify that...a brand new Milwaukee 1.5 ah 12v lion is less money. :confused3:

Just so you know did I have second thoughts though and took it back out of the trash after my original postings so it's back on the shelf right now!

It's certainly not difficult to replace it by no means open the case and unsolder and resolder

For $10-$15 sure its worthy.

 

[k0ua]

here is a 6 pack of sub c for $18. Up to you whether this is worth it or not. I agree that often new drill can be purchased for close to what the batteries cost. And offer better performance with Lithium packs. I am all done with NiCad and NiMH packs. I am never rebuilding another one. After owning Lithium packs, I am never going back.

Sub C 2200 mAh NiCd Rechargeable Battery with Tabs 6-pack

 

[Soundguy]

are they sub C? sure looks like 15$ would do ya.

Make sure to match the battery chemestry to the old one ( extra capacity is ok ). Charge characteristics between nicad, nimh, and LI are different.

 

[Soundguy]

here is a 6 pack of sub c for $18. Up to you whether this is worth it or not. I agree that often new drill can be purchased for close to what the batteries cost. And offer better performance with Lithium packs. I am all done with NiCad and NiMH packs. I am never rebuilding another one. After owning Lithium packs, I am never going back.

Sub C 2200 mAh NiCd Rechargeable Battery with Tabs 6-pack

I never rebuild nicad anymore either.. though I will swap nimh into where nicad was, and then adjust the charger accordingly.. Usually just requires a visit to my 'junk pile' of electronic carcass's to remove what I need and continue.

 

[k0ua]

are they sub C? sure looks like 15$ would do ya.

Make sure to match the battery chemestry to the old one ( extra capacity is ok ). Charge characteristics between nicad, nimh, and LI are different.

Agreed, I mean I have bought new tools and chargers that use Lithium Ion. 18 volt system. I am faced with a 9.6 volt NiCad drill on its last legs pack. I have rebuilt these packs about 5 times, and The drill is getting old. It has been a good one, and old Ryobi, and it is over 25 years old now. But LI is so much better I am considering letting it just die when this last weak battery finally cashes in.

 

[Soundguy]

I let them go when the front bearings starts getting ANY play. that or motor starts throwing stuff out the vents.

 

[DFB]

So are these stacked sub c batteries or were they just one stick...they are 4 inches long

And are sleeved in a thin kraft paper.

I don't detect any individual cell separations. :confused3:

Tell you what though I have 2 useless 18V 1833 Makita Ni Mh batteries that would definitely be worth rebuilding because I still use the saw regular. They're on the shelf too :laughing:

Maybe I will disassemble them from the case later today.





I appreciate the advice here guys.

 

[k0ua]

They are stacked sub C cells. if you cut them apart. There are also 4/5 sub c cells and 1/2 sub c cells. Sub C cells are just like C sized cells, but smaller. obviously 4/5 sub c cells are shorter and 1/2 sub c cells are shorter yet. Batteries plus can rebuild you packs if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

 

[Soundguy]

it really depends on what is under that paper. there ARE tube batteries and other pre-sealed tube/stick batteries, especially in the 3.6v size range. Some flashlights use them shrink wrapped thay look like 3 sub c end to end, but they do have a special end on one side ( for the flashlights anyway), to contact the bolb and cap end connectors..

 

[Soundguy]

They are stacked sub C cells. if you cut them apart. There are also 4/5 sub c cells and 1/2 sub c cells. Sub C cells are just like C sized cells, but smaller. obviously 4/5 sub c cells are shorter and 1/2 sub c cells are shorter yet. Batteries plus can rebuild you packs if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

yup, you beat me to it.

them half sub c are neat.

 

[DFB]

They are stacked sub C cells. if you cut them apart. There are also 4/5 sub c cells and 1/2 sub c cells. Sub C cells are just like C sized cells, but smaller. obviously 4/5 sub c cells are shorter and 1/2 sub c cells are shorter yet.

That they are James...3 cells 1 1/4" in length and slightly under 7/8" in dia.

 

[DFB]

So like I mentioned in my original post that the tool "smokes" when plugged into the wall charger...so with it all opened up this is the component that is overheating. (I used my IR gun to find the hot spot)




So what does this tell me

That the batteries just wont take the charge or is there something else wrong?


Good thing I got time on hands :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

So like I mentioned in my original post that the tool "smokes" when plugged into the wall charger...so with it all opened up this is the component that is overheating. (I used my IR gun to find the hot spot)


View attachment 454975

So what does this tell me

That the batteries just wont take the charge or is there something else wrong?


Good thing I got time on hands :laughing:

The photo is pretty blurry, but I think it is just a Resistor. Value unknown. I suspect you have a shorted cell or several shorted cells in the pack and the resistor is there to act as a current limiter in the normal charging function. However with shorted cells excessive current is being drawn from the charging power supply. and it has exceeded the power rating of the resistor. It could be a thermistor as well (resistance varies as it heats up) I cannot be sure. This is not a particularly good thing.

All electronic devices run on magic smoke. When you let the magic smoke out of them. they don't work very well any more. So always try to keep the smoke inside. This is electronic wisdom from a guy that has been working with electronic devices for a long time.

 

[k0ua]

Here is a little info about sub c cells.

Sub-C cell size dimensions details info type

As for the resistor, It may still be usable.. maybe not. It would be good to know its original value. Metal film resistors (which this looks like it may be) are pretty robust and will take quite a bit of abuse. A clearer photo would be good.

 

[Soundguy]

agreed, resistor or thermistor. I can't make out what it is, I work thru a phone. ;_)

 

[DFB]

Sorry about the picture clarity. Using my cell phone. No macro zoom.

I could dig out my camera if really needed

So this one probably isn't any better

There is brown(?) resistor 9 C printed on it with 2 white bands wired in between that and the neg. side of the battery pack.




That first component has nothing legible on it and looks like it has been heated up pretty good.


Makes sense what you diagnose.

The other two Makita batteries the 18v post style they just dont have any run time when they charge I don't see any excessive overheating

The smoke stays inside them