Need help to deciding on tires

[sea2summit]

About to grab a MX5800 and need to figure out tires. I've been planning on R4s but wondering if I should go with more AG type tires.

Primarily I'm clearing some previously logged land (aka stump central) and brushing out some woods but after that mostly just field work. I'm in Georgia so no worries about snow or anything like that. I'll probably be putting some pretty good loads in the loader and hope to get a grapple to clean up some of the mess I've got so there will be lots of loading on the tires.

Any opinions?

 

[k0ua]

About to grab a MX5800 and need to figure out tires. I've been planning on R4s but wondering if I should go with more AG type tires.

Primarily I'm clearing some previously logged land (aka stump central) and brushing out some woods but after that mostly just field work. I'm in Georgia so no worries about snow or anything like that. I'll probably be putting some pretty good loads in the loader and hope to get a grapple to clean up some of the mess I've got so there will be lots of loading on the tires.

Any opinions?

It is all just opinion, but I would stay with the R4's. You mention heavily loaded loader=R4's. Working in slash with and increased risk of puncture=R4's. The R1's will have better traction but in my mind the R4's are tougher. Yes I have had both.

 

[4570Man]

My vote is R4. R4s will beat R1s in deep mud. R4s resist sinking much better. Once you sink in deep mud neither tire does any good.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

R4s would be my vote but be prepared to put a LOT of weight on the back of your MX for loader work.

 

[jeff9366]

R4s are much more problem resistant anywhere around a Burn Pile, flaming or cold.

 

[jeff9366]

R4s will beat R1s in deep mud.

My experience is contrary to this.

Three reasons to get R1s are: Mud, manure shedding, and requirement for a narrow total tractor width. As narrow R1's settle in mud, more tire bars gain traction.

Your mud experience may be distinct from my mud experience. I would describe my mud as mucilage.

I have never tractored in Crosseville, TN but I did shoot a big hog there, thirty years ago.

 

[motownbrowne]

To me it'd depend on the field work you mention. Around here, that means plowing, discing, planting etc. If that's the case you'd have to go with R1s. If you're talking about bush hogging or haying on the other hand, then I'm sure you could get away with R4s. Also, if you are talking about tillage when you say field work, but you'll be using a rototiller, then you'll be fine with R4s. Really, though for ground engaging work, R1s are the only tire designed for the job.

 

[chieff]

I have owned a kubota with R4's for 12 years and another kubota with R1w radial tires for over 5 years so I have hundreds and hundreds of hours on both sets so here is what I know personally. The r4's are very puncture resistant but are so stiff they will jar your kidneys out if you hit rough ground at speed. The R4's don't have anywhere near the traction as the radial r1's especially on wet grass Orin the mud. So from my experience the r1w's ride softer, have better traction, and last longer. However they cost more but are worth every dime.

 

[4570Man]

My experience is contrary to this. Three reasons to get R1s are: Mud, manure shedding, and requirement for a narrow total tractor width. As narrow R1's settle in mud, more tire bars gain traction. Your mud experience may be distinct from my mud experience. I would describe my mud as mucilage. I have never tractored in Crosseville, TN but I did shoot a big hog there, thirty years ago.

I am talking mud much deeper than your axel. The difference is even greater with a load in the FEL. I have been stuck plenty of times mostly on the old L2550 with R1 tires. Depending where you draw the line for stuck I have never gotten a tractor with R4 tires stuck. Dragging the tractor out of mud deeper then the brush guard with the backhoe attachment doesn't count as stuck right? I have had to do this twice on the L3240 which has R4 tires. I know that the same tractor with R1 tires would have still gotten stuck. Once the mud was so deep that it was deeper than the dipper stick on the backhoe which is about 60 inches. Around here there is usually a thin crust on the mud. If you break the crust there is no hope of not getting stuck. The wider R4s have a better chance of floating across the crust. Some R4s are more aggressive than others. Here are the ones on a L3240 VS the ones on a L3800.

 

[4570Man]

I have owned a kubota with R4's for 12 years and another kubota with R1w radial tires for over 5 years so I have hundreds and hundreds of hours on both sets so here is what I know personally. The r4's are very puncture resistant but are so stiff they will jar your kidneys out if you hit rough ground at speed. The R4's don't have anywhere near the traction as the radial r1's especially on wet grass Orin the mud. So from my experience the r1w's ride softer, have better traction, and last longer. However they cost more but are worth every dime.

I thought the R4s were more expensive? How do you figure the R1s last longer? In my experience with both tires being filled with fluid there is very little difference in ride smoothness.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

I am talking mud much deeper than your axel. The difference is even greater with a load in the FEL. I have been stuck plenty of times mostly on the old L2550 with R1 tires. Depending where you draw the line for stuck I have never gotten a tractor with R4 tires stuck. Dragging the tractor out of mud deeper then the brush guard with the backhoe attachment doesn't count as stuck right? I have had to do this twice on the L3240 which has R4 tires. I know that the same tractor with R1 tires would have still gotten stuck. Once the mud was so deep that it was deeper than the dipper stick on the backhoe which is about 60 inches. Around here there is usually a thin crust on the mud. If you break the crust there is no hope of not getting stuck. The wider R4s have a better chance of floating across the crust. Some R4s are more aggressive than others. Here are the ones on a L3240 VS the ones on a L3800.

View attachment 449528



View attachment 449529

If you are in over the hood, you have the wrong tool for the job. R4 or r1 is irrelevant at that point.

 

[4570Man]

If you are in over the hood, you have the wrong tool for the job. R4 or r1 is irrelevant at that point.

That was the point. It was only a couple inches over the bottom of the brush guard. I have never been stuck any less with either tire.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

That was the point. It was only a couple inches over the bottom of the brush guard. I have never been stuck any less with either tire.

Gotcha, well that's some thin mud, if we get anything up to the belly of a machine it's done if not before. I think the op has two very different needs and either tire will be a compromise. The tree clearing and woods work and loader work strongly suggest r4. The field work would get an r1 vote for me if it was tillage work. R4 would be fine for rototiller or something along those lines. For plowing, discing, field cultivator, or other high draft loads, I'm saying r1 is the tire of choice and preferably a radial for the better traction they provide.

 

[sea2summit]

Gotcha, well that's some thin mud, if we get anything up to the belly of a machine it's done if not before. I think the op has two very different needs and either tire will be a compromise. The tree clearing and woods work and loader work strongly suggest r4. The field work would get an r1 vote for me if it was tillage work. R4 would be fine for rototiller or something along those lines. For plowing, discing, field cultivator, or other high draft loads, I'm saying r1 is the tire of choice and preferably a radial for the better traction they provide.

Nailed my problem.

 

[motownbrowne]

Nailed my problem.

So what kind of field work are you talking about?

 

[RedNeckRacin]

To me it'd depend on the field work you mention. Around here, that means plowing, discing, planting etc. If that's the case you'd have to go with R1s. If you're talking about bush hogging or haying on the other hand, then I'm sure you could get away with R4s. Also, if you are talking about tillage when you say field work, but you'll be using a rototiller, then you'll be fine with R4s. Really, though for ground engaging work, R1s are the only tire designed for the job.

I just realized I think I restated your post almost verbatim!

 

[ovrszd]

I am on steep terrain and mud a LOT. Had R4s. Hated them. Now have R1 Radials. Much better.

For puncture resistance and weight carrying ability the R4 will probably excel.

For traction and ride the R1 radial will definitely excel.

 

[Ivan49]

In the 30 plus years my ag tires never loaded up in the mud here on my place. I have had my new tractor for 3 months and in the mud the r4 are worthless, yes they will get you thru but are spinning doing it. I like them in soft ground as the front tires make a rut the backs cover it up and in the woods they are great. Time will tell what they are like in the snow if we get any this year.

 

[motownbrowne]

I just realized I think I restated your post almost verbatim!

I saw that too. Funny. Great minds...

 

[chieff]

I thought the R4s were more expensive? How do you figure the R1s last longer? In my experience with both tires being filled with fluid there is very little difference in ride smoothness.

Radial tires on average last 50% longer and offer 25% more traction vs bias ply tires. Look at all of your county and state tractor highway mowing tires. Once our county mowers started going with radials they are replacing tires much less often. The R1w radials are as wide as r4 tires therefore you get the lower ground pressures. They ride significantly better than r4's. I'll mow hay at 12 mph with a disc mower on my radial tire tractor but my kidneys won't let me go more than 7-8 with the r4's. The main reason I went with r4 on my older tractor was the only wide tire option at the time was r4 and I didn't want to roll the front tires off the rim with a heavy front end bucket load. On my newer tractor with R1w radials they are just as wide. I promise once you go radial tires you will never look back.