Need help to deciding on tires

[sea2summit]

About to grab a MX5800 and need to figure out tires. I've been planning on R4s but wondering if I should go with more AG type tires.

Primarily I'm clearing some previously logged land (aka stump central) and brushing out some woods but after that mostly just field work. I'm in Georgia so no worries about snow or anything like that. I'll probably be putting some pretty good loads in the loader and hope to get a grapple to clean up some of the mess I've got so there will be lots of loading on the tires.

Any opinions?

 

[k0ua]

About to grab a MX5800 and need to figure out tires. I've been planning on R4s but wondering if I should go with more AG type tires.

Primarily I'm clearing some previously logged land (aka stump central) and brushing out some woods but after that mostly just field work. I'm in Georgia so no worries about snow or anything like that. I'll probably be putting some pretty good loads in the loader and hope to get a grapple to clean up some of the mess I've got so there will be lots of loading on the tires.

Any opinions?

It is all just opinion, but I would stay with the R4's. You mention heavily loaded loader=R4's. Working in slash with and increased risk of puncture=R4's. The R1's will have better traction but in my mind the R4's are tougher. Yes I have had both.

 

[4570Man]

My vote is R4. R4s will beat R1s in deep mud. R4s resist sinking much better. Once you sink in deep mud neither tire does any good.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

R4s would be my vote but be prepared to put a LOT of weight on the back of your MX for loader work.

 

[jeff9366]

R4s are much more problem resistant anywhere around a Burn Pile, flaming or cold.

 

[jeff9366]

R4s will beat R1s in deep mud.

My experience is contrary to this.

Three reasons to get R1s are: Mud, manure shedding, and requirement for a narrow total tractor width. As narrow R1's settle in mud, more tire bars gain traction.

Your mud experience may be distinct from my mud experience. I would describe my mud as mucilage.

I have never tractored in Crosseville, TN but I did shoot a big hog there, thirty years ago.

 

[motownbrowne]

To me it'd depend on the field work you mention. Around here, that means plowing, discing, planting etc. If that's the case you'd have to go with R1s. If you're talking about bush hogging or haying on the other hand, then I'm sure you could get away with R4s. Also, if you are talking about tillage when you say field work, but you'll be using a rototiller, then you'll be fine with R4s. Really, though for ground engaging work, R1s are the only tire designed for the job.

 

[chieff]

I have owned a kubota with R4's for 12 years and another kubota with R1w radial tires for over 5 years so I have hundreds and hundreds of hours on both sets so here is what I know personally. The r4's are very puncture resistant but are so stiff they will jar your kidneys out if you hit rough ground at speed. The R4's don't have anywhere near the traction as the radial r1's especially on wet grass Orin the mud. So from my experience the r1w's ride softer, have better traction, and last longer. However they cost more but are worth every dime.

 

[4570Man]

My experience is contrary to this. Three reasons to get R1s are: Mud, manure shedding, and requirement for a narrow total tractor width. As narrow R1's settle in mud, more tire bars gain traction. Your mud experience may be distinct from my mud experience. I would describe my mud as mucilage. I have never tractored in Crosseville, TN but I did shoot a big hog there, thirty years ago.

I am talking mud much deeper than your axel. The difference is even greater with a load in the FEL. I have been stuck plenty of times mostly on the old L2550 with R1 tires. Depending where you draw the line for stuck I have never gotten a tractor with R4 tires stuck. Dragging the tractor out of mud deeper then the brush guard with the backhoe attachment doesn't count as stuck right? I have had to do this twice on the L3240 which has R4 tires. I know that the same tractor with R1 tires would have still gotten stuck. Once the mud was so deep that it was deeper than the dipper stick on the backhoe which is about 60 inches. Around here there is usually a thin crust on the mud. If you break the crust there is no hope of not getting stuck. The wider R4s have a better chance of floating across the crust. Some R4s are more aggressive than others. Here are the ones on a L3240 VS the ones on a L3800.

 

[4570Man]

I have owned a kubota with R4's for 12 years and another kubota with R1w radial tires for over 5 years so I have hundreds and hundreds of hours on both sets so here is what I know personally. The r4's are very puncture resistant but are so stiff they will jar your kidneys out if you hit rough ground at speed. The R4's don't have anywhere near the traction as the radial r1's especially on wet grass Orin the mud. So from my experience the r1w's ride softer, have better traction, and last longer. However they cost more but are worth every dime.

I thought the R4s were more expensive? How do you figure the R1s last longer? In my experience with both tires being filled with fluid there is very little difference in ride smoothness.