Ya know, that Gannon sure would look good painted either black or Kioti Orange.I run my stump grapple from the rear remote. It would be handy to have a true third function to run everything from the loader joystick, but using one of the rear remotes doesn't slow me down much and was MUCH cheaper.
That Gannon box blade is a real beast. I bought a used 6 foot one for $1100, put about $150 into rebuilding the hydraulic cylinder, and about $100 in hoses (from NAPA, which is when I figured out how proud NAPA is of their hydraulic hoses), and it works great. Not real pretty, but works as good as a new one for about 1/3 of the cost of a brand new one.
I have a couple of questions (don't laugh...).
1. Do I need to shut off the tractor to hook up the quick connect hydraulics? That's what I've been doing.YES
2. Is there an easy way to release the QA hydraulics?Not really It appears that I can press in on the outer ring and release the male end from the coupling.YEP
3. The 'tilt' is mounted on the rear, but not a 'top'. I have several cylinders that came with this. Would it be wise/useful to mount the 'Top'? (I have 3 rear remotes, one of which hooks to the grapple when it is mounted).Yes
4. I assume the hydraulics/rear end fluid is all part of one system? Does this include the power shuttle? (manual is a little vague on all this)Yes, all one sump. of course front axle fluid is not part of the sump
5. What hydraulic fluid is best?The one/ones your manual specify's is a safe bet
6. What grease should I use for the pins on the loader/grapple?It is not critical. Some people like grease with Moly in it, but I dont think it matters near as much as to what type you use as long as you use grease, and plenty of it
Thanks. Take care,
I have a couple of questions (don't laugh...). 1. Do I need to shut off the tractor to hook up the quick connect hydraulics? That's what I've been doing. 2. Is there an easy way to release the QA hydraulics? It appears that I can press in on the outer ring and release the male end from the coupling. 3. The 'tilt' is mounted on the rear, but not a 'top'. I have several cylinders that came with this. Would it be wise/useful to mount the 'Top'? (I have 3 rear remotes, one of which hooks to the grapple when it is mounted). 4. I assume the hydraulics/rear end fluid is all part of one system? Does this include the power shuttle? (manual is a little vague on all this) 5. What hydraulic fluid is best? 6. What grease should I use for the pins on the loader/grapple? Thanks. Take care,
On #2. Do you just keep a screwdriver around to release the coupling? Seems like you almost need a large toolbox on the tractor to keep pins, chain, wrenches/drivers, grease... Others?
No, you don't need a screwdriver (or any tools) to disconnect the hydraulic quick couplers. When you kill the tractor, move the loader lever and the rear remote levers around to release the pressure on the system. Then you just push in the collar on the female connector and pull on the male connector to disconnect.
My DK50SE has a toolbox behind the step (below the floor of the cab). I keep a dead blow hammer in it (for hooking up 3 point implements that need a little encouragement) and a crescent wrench (to use on the top link nut).

I received my tractor a while back so now it's time to post some pictures. I ended up with the TN75A with a 2G2 Gearmore hydraulic box blade, a Landpride 72" rotary cutter, a heavy duty bucket (SSQA), pallet forks and a 72" grapple.
Hey Pappy. My rear remotes don't have any visible collar. They have a spring-loaded protective cover, but I don't see a collar like on a typical female quick connect. Is the NH unique, or am I totally missing something? Thanks,
View attachment 446622
Hey Pappy. My rear remotes don't have any visible collar. They have a spring-loaded protective cover, but I don't see a collar like on a typical female quick connect. Is the NH unique, or am I totally missing something? Thanks,
View attachment 446622
Yes you have push-pull couplers. For disconnecting, you push in and then pull out all in one quick motion. For connecting, just push the male end in. No outer sleeves to fool with. If you forget to disconnect from an implement, the hoses will disconnect on their own and no damage should be done to either end.
You have a nice rig there. :thumbsup: