Regular Auto Oil in ATV

DrRod · Sep 19, 2015

Greetings,

While pursuing my ill-fated oil change [see drain plug thread] I actually looked something up in the manual. It seems to say that using any 10W-40 oil is fine. But I recall the dealer and others saying you need to use ATV oil that contains various additives due to the wet clutch. Does anyone use plain old auto engine oil or should I stick with ATV oil? Incidentally, they are a 1999 Honda 450 ES and a 2001 Honda Recon.

Zerk · Sep 19, 2015

They have always said this for motorcycles.

What does it hold? Change it once a year? Throw a good sync oil in.

Not like a truck or bike where you have to do it a few times a year, at least my 4 wheelers. Even on those I go good. Which is a debated topic.

I'd go to 4 wheeler for too.

DrRod · Sep 19, 2015

Thanks for the quick reply. When you say sync oil are you referring to sync for ATVs or any [auto] sync oil?

Zerk · Sep 19, 2015

I would go with any atv type. I go with Mobil one or Amsoil usually cause I can buy it at fleet farm 7 days a week. Though I have run dealer oil. I

I don't get caught up in brands, though I do suspect some are better.

4 wheeler is 3 quarts or less probably. So less then $10. Though I realize easy to spend other people's money and you may need that 10 for something.

I have had times in my life I wanted 10 bucks more.

GreenYellow · Sep 19, 2015

As long as the oil doesn't have Molybdenum in it, it's fine. (In the right viscosity, of course) You can't use Moly with a wet clutch. Most automotive oils have it.

Zerk · Sep 19, 2015

Why make the effort to find out?

GreenYellow · Sep 19, 2015

Zerk said:
Why make the effort to find out?

I agree. I use Honda oil. It's only $1 or $2 a quart more expensive than average auto oil. I have to go get an oil filter from them anyway. Peace of mind is worth a lot.

DrRod · Sep 19, 2015

Zerk said:
Why make the effort to find out?

Well, the spec in the manual got me thinking in that direction. Plus you can buy regular oil almost anywhere while ATV oil requires a trip to the dealer and they can be hard to get to given their hours [and they all seem to close on Sunday and Monday].

mjonesnh · Sep 19, 2015

Run Honda oil in my Rancher ATV. Reason being that the Honda oil is API spec'ed SG. I believe this is the last spec before friction fighters were introduced to passenger vehicles. In this case it is the lack of additives for the wet clutch instead of extra additives.

ProjectKing · Sep 20, 2015

I agree with others. I run Honda oil in my Honda Foreman 450. You have to use motorcycle oil due to wet clutch.

Hondas are built like tanks. No reason to ruin a fine machine by using the wrong or cheap oil. Good luck! (0:

w1ebb · Sep 20, 2015

DrRod said:
Greetings,

While pursuing my ill-fated oil change [see drain plug thread] I actually looked something up in the manual. It seems to say that using any 10W-40 oil is fine. But I recall the dealer and others saying you need to use ATV oil that contains various additives due to the wet clutch. Does anyone use plain old auto engine oil or should I stick with ATV oil? Incidentally, they are a 1999 Honda 450 ES and a 2001 Honda Recon.

A lot of people will tell you "oil is oil! Dont believe them! Always use quality oil and filters. The oil should always meet/exceed the minimum requirements of your machine.
Good fortune!

Scott

Zerk · Sep 20, 2015

mjonesnh said:
Run Honda oil in my Rancher ATV. Reason being that the Honda oil is API spec'ed SG. I believe this is the last spec before friction fighters were introduced to passenger vehicles. In this case it is the lack of additives for the wet clutch instead of extra additives.

Ya dealer hours can problem. Fleet Farm has 4 wheeler filters and Amsoil.

I would get some type of bike or 4 wheeler oil, but that is me.

aeblank · Sep 21, 2015

I have an old Suzuki, and the clutch is flaky. I suspect it's because the wrong oil has been used.
Someone mentioned not having Moly in the oil. Is there a way to "clean" the clutches after the wrong oil has been used (probably for years)?

GreenYellow · Sep 21, 2015

aeblank said:
I have an old Suzuki, and the clutch is flaky. I suspect it's because the wrong oil has been used.
Someone mentioned not having Moly in the oil. Is there a way to "clean" the clutches after the wrong oil has been used (probably for years)?

I am by no means an expert with this, but I do know that using oil with Moly is problematic for wet centrifugal clutches.

Maybe try a "flush". Change the oil to the correct oil and add and engine flush product. They make several -- Sea Foam, Royal Purple, mechanic in a bottle. There are several... (don't overfill oil capacity)
Run it for a little while (maybe a half hour) in normal use. Then drain the oil. (and filter if applicable)

Add the correct oil and new filter. Sure can't hurt anything.

aeblank · Sep 22, 2015

GreenYellow said:
I am by no means an expert with this, but I do know that using oil with Moly is problematic for wet centrifugal clutches.

That is the clutch, I think, that feels funky. It seems to grip/slip to varying degrees without changing anything. Not trying to derail the original topic, but thanks.

aeblank · Sep 22, 2015

GreenYellow said:
I am by no means an expert with this, but I do know that using oil with Moly is problematic for wet centrifugal clutches.

That is the clutch, I think, that feels funky. It seems to grip/slip to varying degrees without changing anything. Not trying to derail the original topic, but thanks.

DrRod · Sep 22, 2015

Talked to a mechanic at the dealer and he said -- yes -- there is a difference and you should always use ATV oil. He didn't seem particularly worried about the auto oil currently in the machine. No need to do a flush or even change the filter. just drain and replace with the right stuff and all should be fine. So I've done that, took it out for a ride, and so far so good. Another crisis averted.

cdaigle430 · Sep 29, 2015

Use ATV oil. I own a Honda Shadow Aero and Honda Rincon and always use Honda powersports oil. Im not picking on the origional poster here but why screw around with the lifeblood of an engine? Just use the right oil for the job, it can save you some major headaches and pains later on.

TableRocked · Sep 30, 2015

I started with the required specs for the oil and the only JASO MA2 with an API of SM or higher (SN in this case) 10W40 I could find was Motul's 7100 4T 10W40 oil, so that's what I'm running in my 2015 Kawasaki Mule Pro FXT LE.

For the transmission and differential, going again with the specs and verifying from Kawasaki tech support that "LS" or limited slip gear oil isn't required for either the trans or the differential, I found that Motul's Gear 300 75W90 exceeded all the specs, so I went with it.