Kubota engine oil recommendation

[sw03]

Just checked my manual for my 2009 B3200 HST and It recommends 10-30 or 15-40 year round. It does give you a guide for outside temps for your choice of what oil to use. Don't know if this helps but that's what my 2009 manual says.
DevilDog

Kubota is like most care manuals so outdated. I would NEVER use a 15w-40 year round in MA.

 

[rut3556]

>>I would NEVER use a 15w-40 year round in MA.<<

To each his own, but here in NH I've been running Amsoil 15-40 (synthetic) in my L2250 for the past 24 years, and it runs like the proverbial top.

 

[sw03]

>>I would NEVER use a 15w-40 year round in MA.<<

To each his own, but here in NH I've been running Amsoil 15-40 (synthetic) in my L2250 for the past 24 years, and it runs like the proverbial top.

great but the pumping temp is not great. I would use the 5w-30 and hear the diff.

 

[son69]

I was told by a Shell engineer that the first number is the flow properties of the oil at a specific cold temp, and the second number is the weight of the oil. So a 15w-40 and a 5w-40 are both 40 weight oils, the only difference is that one will flow the equivalent of a 5 weight oil when cold and the other will flow like a 15 weight, but when at operating temperature they are both 40 weight. That being said, he recommended going with the lowest first number to get the oil to all parts of the engine and a second number equal to manufacture recommend weight. I went 5w-40 and am not looking back!!!!

 

[Smokin Dog]

Never in my life have I ever encountered less knowledge than what i've
read on this forum. As for your Shell engineer, he didn't know very much
about his product. 15w Is the viscosity which is the flow factor. The
40 is the protection factor. 5w is the viscosity which is the flow factor.
40 is the protection factor. W is for winter flow. If he said anything about
'' weight'' then he isn't a Shell engineer, or if he is he's STUPID in a big
way. The word weight isn't in the oil factor at all. It happens to be slang
from people that are not informed. And by the way 5w-40 and 15w-40
are not both 40w. However if people refuse to listen to facts, it's their
machine they can destroy it if they want to. You would think people would
listen to factory trained techs instead of the neighbor hood gossip and the
kid a the corner service station.
GOOD LUCK with your decisions Im outta this forum.

 

[Raw Dodge]

Never in my life have I ever encountered less knowledge than what i've
read on this forum. As for your Shell engineer, he didn't know very much
about his product. 15w Is the viscosity which is the flow factor. The
40 is the protection factor. 5w is the viscosity which is the flow factor.
40 is the protection factor. W is for winter flow. If he said anything about
'' weight'' then he isn't a Shell engineer, or if he is he's STUPID in a big
way. The word weight isn't in the oil factor at all. It happens to be slang
from people that are not informed. And by the way 5w-40 and 15w-40
are not both 40w. However if people refuse to listen to facts, it's their
machine they can destroy it if they want to. You would think people would
listen to factory trained techs instead of the neighbor hood gossip and the
kid a the corner service station.
GOOD LUCK with your decisions Im outta this forum.

Back off a bit,oh great one.....If you knew anything you'd know that modern 5w40 API C full synthetics offer much more protection and a higher film strength than conventional 15w40 oils or 30W oils do.No one is going to "burn" up a diesel with them unless the engine was so loose no oil would keep the bearings from contacting the crank....I dont just talk,ive been running 5w40 Shaeffers 9000 oil,Mobil Delvac 1 5w40,and Rotella 5w40 and sampling for yrs,in several diesels,both new and old.My Dodge Cummins has made 600rwhp for 5 yrs now on a 5w40 oil,and samples come back great every time,this truck gets worked hard and put away wet.According to you this is not possible,how can that be?

 

[son69]

1-800-BEST-OIL option 4 then option 1.

 

[slickstuff]

5W-40 or 15W-40? the main question is what spec? CI? CD? CJ? the specs are sequential. A CJ-4 oil is backward compatible with a CD spec. No worries for warranty as long as the oil meets or exceeds the spec. You will get better starting with a 5W-XX than a 15W-XX. Better fuel economy, longer drain intervals and less wear using a higher quality engine oil. Find out more at Schaeffer Oil 3.0 | Industrial Lubricants | Diesel Fuel Additive | Synthetic Motor Oils

 

[WilliamBos]

5W-40 or 15W-40? the main question is what spec? CI? CD? CJ? the specs are sequential. A CJ-4 oil is backward compatible with a CD spec. No worries for warranty as long as the oil meets or exceeds the spec. You will get better starting with a 5W-XX than a 15W-XX. Better fuel economy, longer drain intervals and less wear using a higher quality engine oil. Find out more at Schaeffer Oil 3.0 | Industrial Lubricants | Diesel Fuel Additive | Synthetic Motor Oils

Ok, so MF calls for 10W30, but aside from Amsoil, 10W30 diesel oil is hard to find. How much, if any of an adverse affect will running 5W40 have on us?? Would probably switch to 10W30 in the summer. What do you think??

 

[bp fick]

Ok, so MF calls for 10W30, but aside from Amsoil, 10W30 diesel oil is hard to find. How much, if any of an adverse affect will running 5W40 have on us?? Would probably switch to 10W30 in the summer. What do you think??

This issue is certainly a wide spread and oft talked about deal here at TBN. No, it is almost impossible to find 10-30 apart from your dealer. I bit the bullet and bought enough 10-30 from my dealer, for my 50 hour oil change coming up. After that, I will likely switch to 5-40 or 15-40 because I will have enough break in hours. I am a wee bit hesitant to switch to slippery synthetics too early. But later on? yeah.

Got a block heater? That's your best bet for winter and places less stress on the start up and the lubrication issues. Best Wishes

 

[WilliamBos]

This issue is certainly a wide spread and oft talked about deal here at TBN. No, it is almost impossible to find 10-30 apart from your dealer. I bit the bullet and bought enough 10-30 from my dealer, for my 50 hour oil change coming up. After that, I will likely switch to 5-40 or 15-40 because I will have enough break in hours. I am a wee bit hesitant to switch to slippery synthetics too early. But later on? yeah.

Got a block heater? That's your best bet for winter and places less stress on the start up and the lubrication issues. Best Wishes

Yes, I have a block heater, and only run synthetics, have since 112 hours on the clock. So, 5W40 would only be synthetic.

 

[slickstuff]

Synthetics are fine after initial breakin period 100hrs. You will find no problems but only benefits. Less wear, easier starts. Move to a friction modified engine oil (ie Schaeffer) and get lower operating temps and better fuel economy.

Schaeffer has a 10W-30 Diesel- ship directly to your location or go to the retail locator on the website. Better yet, call Schaeffer at 800 325 9962 and ask for the local rep and buy at wholesale price.

Trust someone that knows lubricants.

 

[RWEST]

Or, use Shell Rotella T 10-30.

You can usually find it at Wally's.

Better yet, call Schaeffer at 800 325 9962 and ask for the local rep and buy at wholesale price.
Trust someone that knows lubricants.

Good stuff, too.

 

[sw03]

Yes, I have a block heater, and only run synthetics, have since 112 hours on the clock. So, 5W40 would only be synthetic.

True that but I have used a synthetic oil with a pumping temp of -38F...No heater needed.

 

[sw03]

Synthetics are fine after initial breakin period 100hrs. You will find no problems but only benefits. Less wear, easier starts. Move to a friction modified engine oil (ie Schaeffer) and get lower operating temps and better fuel economy.

Schaeffer has a 10W-30 Diesel- ship directly to your location or go to the retail locator on the website. Better yet, call Schaeffer at 800 325 9962 and ask for the local rep and buy at wholesale price.

Trust someone that knows lubricants.

Why no use for the break in? No issue but slower ring setting, more fuel in UOA, slight more wear.

I like and use 131 but your shipping is a crazy killer.

 

[bp fick]

Or, use Shell Rotella T 10-30.

You can usually find it at Wally's.


Good stuff, too.

Oh, how I wish it were true at my local Wally World. Sadly, no.

 

[WilliamBos]

True that but I have used a synthetic oil with a pumping temp of -38F...No heater needed.

We actually left it unplugged and we got lucky. One weekend it dropped like a rock, at like -40, a couple of cycles with the glows, she fired right up. We did that to only find out if we could depend on it if the power ever went out. Use the block heater after that, when needed.

 

[RWEST]

Oh, how I wish it were true at my local Wally World. Sadly, no.

Wow, are there any other Wally's around? Usually can't throw a stick without hitting a couple.. Our local (Johnstown) store doesn't carry it, but the one in Altoona does, so I always stock up when I'm over there.

 

[bp fick]

Wow, are there any other Wally's around? Usually can't throw a stick without hitting a couple.. Our local (Johnstown) store doesn't carry it, but the one in Altoona does, so I always stock up when I'm over there.

Notice my signature. Nope. Not for another 40 miles.

 

[crbr]

I changed my oil last weekend with Kubota 10W-30. The new kubota 1 gallon 10W-30 oil container has a slightly different shape than the old container. The part numbers are the same however the new oil includes the CI-4 Plus API rating whereas the old container does not (it only goes to CI-4).

When you turn left there at Jerry Duncan's going up toward Oakdal, stop in at Skinny Millers and ask for Rotella. They sell it by the gallon at a good price. Or there is a guy in Harriman that sells it in a shop that is in the alley-way behind the Princess Theatre.