Advice on new barn construction needed

[daugen]

I am in the beginning phases of having a 30x60 approx garage/storage building built next to my small horse barn.
Purpose is to get all equipment under roof and heavy implements on dolleys rolling on a nice level concrete floor.
Want to have a large door on one end to drive tractor under and then line implements down one side of building.
So maneuver room needed on right, say, and implements to left.

so far my thoughts were one 12 foot high door, with a 16 foot high building height, one 10 foot high door for mowers, two entry doors, small enclosed office area but no running water or toilet. (long story, would require an entire new septic system)
I have water nearby in the barn and I sure can go ahem in the woods.

Want to work on tractors, lawn equipment, cars, truck, etc inside plus have a dedicated corner with a large exhaust fan where I could do some rattle can or even air spray painting. Might store my small boat there over the winter. Will be a mechanical shop there with air compressor and air tools, but no woodworking. That I do in a dedicated woodshop I have just built in my barn.

So....after all this preliminary info, is there any reason for me to upgrade from a pole barn style building to a commercial grade all steel storage garage based on my use? Both would be red metal outside to match the barn. Very basic, not a guy's fun pad unless I hit the lottery.

My main question is other than lack of spanning arches, what does an all metal building "get me"?
If the pole barn is thirty thousand and the all metal building fifty thousand, yes assuming as close as possible apple to apples,
does this offer value in either the short term or the long term?
I'm honestly thinking spend less and want to make sure I'm not being stupid.

Any input on construction quality, speed of construction, relative cost, would be appreciated.

 

[bakerg]

Drew, are you going too section 1 part of shed off to have as a heated garage to work on stuff? This way you do not have to heat the whole building, only you main work area.

 

[Wagtail]

US$50k for a 30x60 metal, single story 'barn'? I'd shop around a lot more, Mate. Even taking into consideration that the poured cement floor/pad is approximately half the cost, that is an exorbitant price.

Two years ago, my 5-bay shed (one bay, roller doored workshop) with pad and assembled was A$32k. Mind you, I didn't have power run out to it as I just ran a heavy duty extension cord from the house. And I don't have to worry about insulation, heating or snow. But still... that's a lot of money.

 

[Stimw]

I just ordered a 40' X 60' X 14' eve red iron building, insulated ceiling, with 2- 12' X 12' , 1- 10' X 12' and walk in doors for under 20 K.
It will be 7 K to assemble and I'm getting bids on concrete (engineered plans) in the 10.5 K range.
I will start a thread with pics when it gets delivered.

 

[LD1]

I am not a fan of all metal for smaller buildings. Hard to finish the insides, and hard to add things like shelves, toolboards, etc. I would only consider one if building a dedicated welding/fab shop

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Subscribed...:thumbsup:

 

[daugen]

thanks for thoughts and numbers. Left out...full insulation, hvac, 100 amp service, full wiring everywhere.
I have seen lots of ads for pole barns for half the numbers I quoted but they never include the "little" stuff, like the concrete pads in front of the doors, electric garage door openers, the list is lengthy.

I'm just starting this and haven't gotten pricing back at all. I used those numbers just for discussion.

what about comparative strength?

 

[Rustyiron]

I am not a fan of all metal for smaller buildings. Hard to finish the insides, and hard to add things like shelves, toolboards, etc. I would only consider one if building a dedicated welding/fab shop

+1

I'm a fan of "lean to" shed's on the side of a larger building for implements. Generally, very cheap cost per sq/ft. and keep's the sun & wet weather off of them and your secure (lockable) building space available for your work area. Also a nice place to stick your air compressor. Wood "post frame" or pole barn type construction would be my choice over an all steel bldg.

 

[Rustyiron]

what about comparative strength?

Either type of construction will have to meet your local codes for snow, wind, etc. required for local (county/town) permiting.

 

[Pixguy]

I would advise putting in some windows up high so natural light gets in without the fear of vandalism.

ie: transom windows over doors, etc.

 

[Depmandog]

While you are spending money, now would be the time to put in a lift so you can safely work under your toys! I know you are having some physical issues (as I am) and bending down twisting the neck / back to work on stuff is tough.

Having had both a metal building and currently a pole barn - I would opt for the metal building. At least 14' sidewalls - you won't be sorry for the added height, and the height adds little to the cost.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

thanks for thoughts and numbers. Left out...full insulation, hvac, 100 amp service, full wiring everywhere.
I have seen lots of ads for pole barns for half the numbers I quoted but they never include the "little" stuff, like the concrete pads in front of the doors, electric garage door openers, the list is lengthy.

I'm just starting this and haven't gotten pricing back at all. I used those numbers just for discussion.

what about comparative strength?

You'll need a bit more power unless you'll run a line from your compressor over. I think 125 is a kind of standard for some.

Coastal Wind load ratings and getting your permits will be parameters.

The main thing I would advise is, 30 x 60 is long and skinny. It will look like a commercial chicken coop IMO. Aesthetics will put you in a 40 x 60 and you won't ever complain about going bigger. If no room for a 40 x 60 now, buy the acre and re-plan to block the view. The 40 foot width will give you room to do a Y turn with your tractor and put implements on 1 wall.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Oh, and termites and carpenter ants don't eat steel.......not yet around here anyway they don't.

 

[farmer2009]

For a building that size I think it would be hard to beat a pole barn. I have a friend that's over 25k into a red iron building 30x40 I think. Has a gravel floor to boot, no power no water. Just concrete feet and a rat wall. For 25k he could have had a pole barn and a concrete floor. His dream was to have a red iron building to last him 40+ years. It now makes him sick when he walks out the door.

His contractor came recommended by the manufacturer. The manufacturer had to replace the roof twice during construction. Contractor couldn't get it straight and it looked like 8-10 foot seas. (Best way to describe the waves without a picture. )The guys house sits on top of the hill a 100 yards away. So every time he walks out the door he looks down the ridge cap. Better than first install but still has a wave to it. Contractor and manufacturer both wiped hands of it.

Maybe you will have better luck. But I talked to a guy that builds both. (Everyone says he's high but I've worked with him before and he's good). He claims a red iron building is harder to get to look right than a pole barn. And you have to make sure you're perfectly square with a metal building or it won't come out right.

 

[EddieWalker]

I put a 12x12 roll up door in the gabled wall of my previous barn and when I built my current one, went down to a 10x12 roll up door. I never needed that extra height, so I opted for a lightly lower door for less money. My walls are 12 feet tall and I have to use a ladder to get to most things that I store up there. After ten years, I still have empty shelves because the things I use all the time, I keep down lower. I can't imagine what the advantage to another 4 feet of wall space would be good for? 12 feet is great!!!

Eddie

 

[daugen]

thanks guys. The door height Eddie was for perhaps someday a motorhome and they are up to 13 feet tall. That door would get used the least; the smaller door much more often. You open that big door and your hvac just groans...

One of the tools I would get sooner vs later in this building is the steel 2 ton gantry from Northern Tools with an electric lift attached. I grew up with a chain lift, pulling and pulling on those chains until the bush hog came up high enough to get under. Now I hope to push a button.
Northern Industrial Tools Adjustable Gantry Crane — 4,400-Lb. Capacity | Gantry Cranes| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[bajabum]

I had a 24X48 Pole barn (12x12 pressure treated posts) done, with a loft and stairs on the last 12 foot segment, concrete floor, with blue foam board under the loft concrete floor.
12x12 roll-up door and a man door, and 4 windows.

$23 K

And It's full, I'm now planning 12 or 15 foot lean-to's...
Whatever size you figure on, make it bigger!

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I had a 24X48 Pole barn (12x12 pressure treated posts) done, with a loft and stairs on the last 12 foot segment, concrete floor, with blue foam board under the loft concrete floor.
12x12 roll-up door and a man door, and 4 windows.

$23 K

And It's full, I'm now planning 12 or 15 foot lean-to's...
Whatever size you figure on, make it bigger!

Curious, does it seem 'out of proportion' being a 2:1 ratio footprint?

 

[daugen]

Curious, does it seem 'out of proportion' being a 2:1 ratio footprint?

well, at 30x60, I guess I'm the same. Fact of the matter is I have space between established trees I'm trying to fit this new building in to the left of my barn and yesterday afternoon, put stakes down with the builder, moved them around, kept coming back to 30x60 as ideal for that spot. Going to leave enough room in between the buildings for the tractor to go through easily; other end goes past the far left utility pole by about five feet. The existing barn has a pole right at the same corner also, though on the proposed building that corner is hidden behind that big pine tree to the left, which needs some serious trimming before I start.

I did decide on 10 foot tall doors instead of 12 and on both ends, so I can drive straight through. I'm not buying any more motorhomes so I can't imagine why I would need the extra height.

putting those stakes down felt good.

 

[farmer2009]

Drew. Is there going to be enough clearance for the power line? Or is a reroute in the plans. Looks like it'll be tight if door is on tree end.