Bump up lift capacity of L3400/LA463 Loader

[J_J]

I am thinking that the loader valve is standard on this tractor.

They don't show any optional flow path

B2920 with loader might be the only way you can purchase one. Don't know for sure.

I simply could not find another relief on that tractor, so it must be so.

The relief valve for the tractor, should still work fine whether any attachments are installed.

Most pictures of the B2920 have a loader installed.

I can see the loader outlets in this picture.

 

[Tx Jim]

J_J
Tractor coming equipped from factory with a FEL control valve is a very good idea. Plus I just looked at the B2920 parts schematics and FEL control valve is listed with tractor instead of being listed with FEL.
Thanks,Jim

 

[Fordman1981]

I am thinking that the loader valve is standard on this tractor. They don't show any optional flow path B2920 with loader might be the only way you can purchase one. Don't know for sure. I simply could not find another relief on that tractor, so it must be so. The relief valve for the tractor, should still work fine whether any attachments are installed. Most pictures of the B2920 have a loader installed. I can see the loader outlets in this picture.

JJ you are correct even if the tractor is not sold with a loader the loader cable is there. My new holland T5050 was that way it even had the loader control in it if you didn't get a loader. I did end up getting the loader though.

 

[McREBEL]

The B2920 manual states: "Do not connect attachments through the hydraulic motor to the [C] and [D] ports. If the control lever is moved to the Regeneration position (R1), the seals on the hydraulic motor will be damaged."

The C and D ports are for the bucket. Regeneration position (R1) is fast dump for the bucket. Any idea why the manual says this?

Below is a pretty good explanation, by KennyD, of the regen mode, its purpose and why my manual makes the above statement:

"Regen is a "feature" of most modern FEL (Front End Loader) valves, it's on the Dump circuit, and is also referred to as "Fast Dump". The reason it is nice to have is that without it, the weight of a filled bucket can actually "pull" the bucket down faster then the fluid can enter the other side of the cylinder, this will create a air pocket and give the bucket a "floppy" feeling until the joystick is held in the dump mode a few seconds to refill the cylinder pushing the air past the seals. So we add "regen" or "regenerative" function to the valve.

Regen solves this problem by actually filling both sides of the cylinder at the same time with hydraulic fluid. But how will that work you might ask? Well, because there is more volume on the side of the cylinder that extends it since the rod is taking up space in the other side, it "overpowers" the rod side and lets the cylinder extend-thereby dumping the bucket. So since now both sides of the cylinder are "pressurized", the air pocket can not develop, eliminating the "floppy" bucket syndrome. One other added bonus is that the bucket actually dumps faster due to the higher flow rate required to do all this, that's why it's referred to as "fast dump" sometimes.

So, now you may be asking "This is cool and all that, but why do I need to know about it??" The answer to that is simple, if you ever try to run a snow plow with two SA (single acting) cylinders, or a cylinder that drives a chute rotator on a snowblower you will soon find out that they won't work if you push the joystick to far right in the regen mode. The plow won't work because since both lines are pressurized-both cylinders will be trying to extend at the same time binding everything up. The rotator won't work because there is no weight pushing the cylinder closed like there is on the loader.

KennyD"

It probably would not be a good idea for me to deadhead either one of those ports with a gauge to check the pressure.

KennyD states "far right" for regen mode. It is near right on the B2920 and maybe most Kubotas.

 

[J_J]

Regen on some Kubota's, if not all is in the first part of lever movement. Some valve have only full regen to the right.

If the Kubota valve has been replaced, with say a Prince valve, then the regen will be to the far right.

 

[Rowdy Raven]

Well, I've read through 29 pages of this thread! Wowza talk about keeping it alive!!!
So, I have a L3010 with a LA481 FEL. I am the second owner and it has been a great tractor although I've always felt that the loader was a bit weak. I have an owners manual but not a WSM. So with all that has been said above and above and above... can JJ, Teg or one of you good folks give me a play by play as to how I need to proceed with this upgrade? I plan to get the gauge from Ken's and I would like to leave the gauge installed on the output hose as shown in the photos back a few pages. I have a shop vac, but I never did see a pic on how to hook that up???
So my questions are:
1. What is the upper pressure limit for my L3010?
2. How do you hook up the shop vac?
3. Is there a series of pix or a video that show how to do this?
4. Thanks a million!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Rowdy Raven]

Well, I've read through 29 pages of this thread! Wowza talk about keeping it alive!!!
So, I have a L3010 with a LA481 FEL. I am the second owner and it has been a great tractor although I've always felt that the loader was a bit weak. I have an owners manual but not a WSM. So with all that has been said above and above and above... can JJ, Teg or one of you good folks give me a play by play as to how I need to proceed with this upgrade? I plan to get the gauge from Ken's and I would like to leave the gauge installed on the output hose as shown in the photos back a few pages. I have a shop vac, but I never did see a pic on how to hook that up???
So my questions are:
1. What is the upper pressure limit for my L3010?
2. How do you hook up the shop vac?
3. Is there a series of pix or a video that show how to do this?
4. Thanks a million!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[LD1]

1. Should be in your manual. I think some of us here have pushed a little beyond that though.

2. Just take the fill cap off the hydraulics and stick the shopvac hose over it. Suction will hold it in place.

3. I don't know of any videos.

 

[k0ua]

Putting a No.8 machine screw into the neck of the transmission (tank) vent will also prevent fluid from rushing out rapidly. It is the little rubber shepards crook under the seat. Don't forget to take it out when finished.

 

[Rowdy Raven]

Thanks guys!!! Ok now that makes sense about the shop vac. In looking in my OManual I see the Hydraulics section in the Specs chart. It says Max force at lift points 2870 lbs. and 24" behind lift points 2200 lbs. Is this the right section and if so, which limit should I be aiming towards??

 

[Fallon]

Thanks guys!!! Ok now that makes sense about the shop vac. In looking in my OManual I see the Hydraulics section in the Specs chart. It says Max force at lift points 2870 lbs. and 24" behind lift points 2200 lbs. Is this the right section and if so, which limit should I be aiming towards??

Aiming towards for what? Are you talking about hydraulic pressure or lift capacity?

Lift capacity is how much you can lift at a particular point. The further from the tractor the less you can lift. You can't effectively measure the calibration of your relief valve by lift capacity.

To measure hydraulic pressure you need a pressure gauge plugged into an available port.

 

[LD1]

You need to find hydraulic system pressure spec. It will be in psi

 

[FTG-05]

I have the workshop manual for the L3130, L3420, L3830, L4330 and L5030 series of tractors.

The hydraulic system pressure for these tractors, according to the "Specifications" pages is as follows:

L3130, L3430, L3830: 2491 to 2633 psi.

L4330, L4630, L5030: 2663 to 2775 psi.

While none of those are your L3010, I hope this helps.

Good luck.

 

[LD1]

Most of the L series tractors seem to call for anywhere from 2400psi up to about 2800psi.

IF you happen to have one that calls for 2800+/-, and are already there, I wouldnt increase pressure any. Most typical components are rated to 3000psi.

If you happen to have one that specs ~2400, I wouldnt have any reservations about bumping to 2600-2700psi range.

 

[newbury]

<snip>
NPT fitting are not designed to be used over and over. You crush the threads every time you tighten.

Try Loctite 542 red.

J_J - Is there any "rule of thumb" on how many times to reuse versus replace?

<snip>
1. What is the upper pressure limit for my L3010?
<snip>

Have you tried calling your dealer?
You've got a tractor that works worth thousands of dollars. Buying a shop manual for $100 and gives you the precise information is cheap insurance. Messicks sells them and ships FAST. Plus they might even tell you over the phone.

/edit - and after you buy it scan it in to a pdf and you can put it on your portable computer device for easy access.

 

[J_J]

Just reuse the NPT fitting until it leaks to much.

 

[LD1]

If you ask a fitting supplier, I am sure they would say you need to replace everytime.

I do as JJ does. IF I cannot get it to seal anymore, I replace

 

[newbury]

Just reuse the NPT fitting until it leaks to much.

That seems to be a tractor hydraulics mantra "goes till it blows"

I just didn't want to be connecting/disconnecting an NPT a lot (like 5 times a year) instead of using a QD if I could only expect to squish it 8 times.

 

[J_J]

Switch the fitting over to JIC fittings.

 

[LD1]

Yep, JIC are alot better. But if your hoses are NPT already, you can get some NPTM fittings to put between the hose and whatever. They are like a JIC in that the seal requires no sealant, and seals against a flare. Just on the inside instead of outside.