Honda quad question

[handirifle]

Yea the I can hear the valves ticking at low speed, so am hoping that will help. Is there a alve cover gasket I will need? I live pretty remote and everything is a mail order item for me. If so I would like to have it in advance.

 

[jejeosborne]

Yea the I can hear the valves ticking at low speed, so am hoping that will help. Is there a alve cover gasket I will need? I live pretty remote and everything is a mail order item for me. If so I would like to have it in advance.

You should be able to reuse your gasket. Most of my vehicles it is an o ring type gasket rather than a flat gasket. If you are hearing valve noise, you'll be amazed at the improved idle and shortened warm up times after proper adjustment.

 

[handirifle]

I am aso getting trailing throttle popping as well which convinces me they are out of adjustment. So valve adjustment is next on my llist. Wil do that when I pull the panels back off to buff them out.

 

[handirifle]

We have a funeral to attend Thurs, that's a couple hundred miles away, and have company coming here, Friday. Sooo, when it quiets down I can get back to my chores. I have a remaining 2/3 of a big oak tree to remove from a property in town, and a shed for my well pump and equipment, to finish as well.

Then I will get back onto the quad. Now that I know it runs, I can do the oil change, flush the brakes, and adjust the valves, then buff the plastic, and repaint the wheels and racks.

After that, I should be able to just enjoy the thing

 

[Buggs67]

My neighbor has the same quad. Very tough and goes most places our 4x4s go. IDK how it is by you, but here is so rocky skid plates are a MUST. ALl it takes is one rock or stick and you're walking home. My friend knocked off his oil drain plug. I made one for my 88 TRX300 out of some steel from an old work bench top. Held it on with carriage bolts up thru some angle iron across the frame rails.

 

[KubotainNH]

I had to think about this as really there is no secret. I'm not particularly easy on my stuff so the only thing I can think of is that the Grizzy 700 gets started at least once a month and taken for a good run. Like at least 5-6 miles and most often more. The quad has never had a battery charger on it but any of my other equipment usually gets a small battery charger put on at least once or twice a winter. As soon as I notice that starting gets a bit sluggish I put the charger on for a few days.

Another "secret" might be that we live at least ten miles from any where. If a vehicle gets started it's gets twenty miles there and back so the alternator has a chance to fully recharge the battery after starting.

I have a camper with two RV battery's in it. I can think of at least twice that they have been totally dead and after a week on the charger they are good to go for the whole summer. They are around seven years old.

I've had troubles with my 2004 4410. It's on the third battery. First one was about five years, second about a year and now the last one. My 1949 IHC KB-1 only gets about two hundred miles a year on it and I usually get 5-6 years out of that six volt battery. It's the only vehicle with a battery isolation switch. If I leave it connected for sure the battery is dead.

On the vehicles that I drive regularly I usually get 8-10 years out of the batterys.

Knock wood, the original Yuasa battery in my '07 street bike is doing well. It spends the winter on an older VDC maintenance charger; it was one of the first with a patented de-sulphation function. If I'm not riding for a bit, in season, I'll throw it back on that charger for a stretch.

That, a bit of luck, clean battery terminals, and keeping the battery topped up with distilled water as needed is what I try to keep on top of. Some poorly regulated alternators can boil off electrolyte much faster than others.

On the other side of the coin.... some small engine alternators may be a bit low in output - battery may be somewhat undercharged all season; bad news if it's left like that over-winter.

When I eventually need to replace that bike battery, I'll look at Yuasa again in conventional batteries, as well as pricing an AGM solution.

Rgds, D.

Well, maybe I need to buy a better brand of battery. I do know that the engines get a lot of start stop so hard on the battery. Not much of my small battery items get more than 20 mins at a time running except for the lawn mower. I've wondered about those de-sulphation chargers but never bought one. Maybe I should put it on my list.

 

[3930dave]

Well, maybe I need to buy a better brand of battery. I do know that the engines get a lot of start stop so hard on the battery. Not much of my small battery items get more than 20 mins at a time running except for the lawn mower. I've wondered about those de-sulphation chargers but never bought one. Maybe I should put it on my list.

OP seems to be at a pretty good point, for an early-stage overhaul, so hopefully doesn't mind a bit of drift...

Of the recent class of chargers, this style is one of my favourites:

CTEK Multi US 3300 | CTEK Battery ChargersCTEK Battery Chargers

Ctek 3300, in the North American listing if that url doesn't fire up....

Relatively small case (easy to fit into nooks/crannies), with good maximum output relative to case size. The case is well sealed (IP rated), so can handle rough weather, or on vehicle mounting.

It has a cold weather mode (alternators are temperature compensated to bump up charge voltage, as temperature drops), which is also a good match for charging AGM batteries. I've bought one of these, the next time I catch a good sale, I'll probably buy another I like it that much.

Bosch and one other manuf. I can't recall at the moment have similar types of products.

Rgds, D.

 

[handirifle]

My neighbor has the same quad. Very tough and goes most places our 4x4s go. IDK how it is by you, but here is so rocky skid plates are a MUST. ALl it takes is one rock or stick and you're walking home. My friend knocked off his oil drain plug. I made one for my 88 TRX300 out of some steel from an old work bench top. Held it on with carriage bolts up thru some angle iron across the frame rails.

It depends on where I would take it. Not likely to go too far out, but one never knows I suppose. I will look to see if it has any skid plates. Never noticed. Might be something I could fab up too.

 

[KubotainNH]

OP seems to be at a pretty good point, for an early-stage overhaul, so hopefully doesn't mind a bit of drift...

Of the recent class of chargers, this style is one of my favourites:

CTEK Multi US 3300 | CTEK Battery ChargersCTEK Battery Chargers

Ctek 3300, in the North American listing if that url doesn't fire up....

Relatively small case (easy to fit into nooks/crannies), with good maximum output relative to case size. The case is well sealed (IP rated), so can handle rough weather, or on vehicle mounting.

It has a cold weather mode (alternators are temperature compensated to bump up charge voltage, as temperature drops), which is also a good match for charging AGM batteries. I've bought one of these, the next time I catch a good sale, I'll probably buy another I like it that much.

Bosch and one other manuf. I can't recall at the moment have similar types of products.

Rgds, D.

Cool, I'll check that out.

 

[crazyal]

Not sure if it's possible on a quad but on my ATC I was able to modify the battery box to accept a standard garden tractor battery. They are a lot cheaper and go on sale often. Being 250cc it doesn't take much to turn it over but the added battery capacity really helps if you add a winch. My 250sx was very cold blooded. Anything below zero made it all but impossible to start without draining all the juice out of the battery. Unless the engine was at operating temps the kick starter was worthless. Rejetting the carb made a world of difference. Now it'll start on the second kick no matter how cold. If you have the same carb it'll have lots of adjustments. I bet I waited 10 to 15 years before adjusting mine. Wish I had done it sooner.

 

[handirifle]

Not sure if it's possible on a quad but on my ATC I was able to modify the battery box to accept a standard garden tractor battery. They are a lot cheaper and go on sale often. Being 250cc it doesn't take much to turn it over but the added battery capacity really helps if you add a winch. My 250sx was very cold blooded. Anything below zero made it all but impossible to start without draining all the juice out of the battery. Unless the engine was at operating temps the kick starter was worthless. Rejetting the carb made a world of difference. Now it'll start on the second kick no matter how cold. If you have the same carb it'll have lots of adjustments. I bet I waited 10 to 15 years before adjusting mine. Wish I had done it sooner.

I had wondered about that. Will have a closer look at it, when this one starts to go bad. Hopefully that will be a long time.

 

[Buggs67]

I had wondered about that. Will have a closer look at it, when this one starts to go bad. Hopefully that will be a long time.

Not much battery room on most of these. I get a WalMart battery and they last pretty good, but I drive my quad at least once a week. And my Honda also has a kick start (Kawasaki has a recoil pull start).

 

[handirifle]

Mine has a pull start

 

[handirifle]

Well, got her running like a top. Never did pull the carb, and may still have to at some point. It seems like it might have a float sticking or junk on the valve, cause it drips a little gas on the floor of my shop, through the bowl overflow tube. Not a huge concern for me at this point. I changed out the old brittle fuel line.

I have so far, freed the front brakes, cleaned and adjusted the brakes, front and rear. The idle speed on the carb was so low it barely ran, and is not running closer to factory setting of 1400RPM +-100. I put in new battery, and cleaned the entire bike. Today I changes the engine oil, and topped off the rear end, was just slightly low. I will today, flush the front brake hydraulics, the rear is manual drum. I adjusted the valves to factory specs (.005"). They were probably closer to .015" before adjusting.

I tried to use a buffer/polisher to clean up the oxidized plastic, but an hours work netted very little improvement. So it is slated for a summer time paint job with Krylon, which I understand works very well on plastic.

SO far it runs better than I could have ever hoped for (for the price) and is faster than I ever want to go with it. I am considering adding a HF winch to the front, for just in case, scenarios.

I couldn't be happier with the whole deal.

 

[handirifle]

Well, got her running like a top. Never did pull the carb, and may still have to at some point. It seems like it might have a float sticking or junk on the valve, cause it drips a little gas on the floor of my shop, through the bowl overflow tube. Not a huge concern for me at this point. I changed out the old brittle fuel line.

I have so far, freed the front brakes, cleaned and adjusted the brakes, front and rear. The idle speed on the carb was so low it barely ran, and is not running closer to factory setting of 1400RPM +-100. I put in new battery, and cleaned the entire bike. Today I changes the engine oil, and topped off the rear end, was just slightly low. I will today, flush the front brake hydraulics, the rear is manual drum. I adjusted the valves to factory specs (.005"). They were probably closer to .015" before adjusting.

I tried to use a buffer/polisher to clean up the oxidized plastic, but an hours work netted very little improvement. So it is slated for a summer time paint job with Krylon, which I understand works very well on plastic.

SO far it runs better than I could have ever hoped for (for the price) and is faster than I ever want to go with it. I am considering adding a HF winch to the front, for just in case, scenarios.

I couldn't be happier with the whole deal.

 

[dfkrug]

My 250sx was very cold blooded. Anything below zero made it all but impossible to start
without draining all the juice out of the battery. Unless the engine was at operating temps the kick starter was worthless.
Rejetting the carb made a world of difference. Now it'll start on the second kick no matter how cold.

I had the ATC250SX for a few years, and it ran great. Never changed the jetting, but I never tried starting it below
40F.Vermont is COLD.

Anyway, did you just change the low speed, or also the mid and main? The main needle on the CV carb may have
had multi position settings, if I recall. This is essentially the same carb you see on most of those 80s thumpers.

Virtually all of these carbureted ATVs can benefit from a richer low-speed jet, esp if made after 1997.

Good fix, AL.

 

[handirifle]

Question
I was flushing out the brake system today. The old fluid looked like mud coming out. THEN like an idiot, I was pumping and bleeding, then I hear this sucking sound....yes I ran the reservoir dry. It wasn't the first time I had gotten it low. I had filled it about 8-10 times already, just wasn't paying attention, at that moment.

So I started trying to bleed the bubbles out, and just when it ought to be coming around, I notice inside the master cylinder when I pull the brake handle I see something squirting up from inside the master cylinder. Not air, I am sure pressure is bleeding past the rubber cup inside the master cylinder. I am thinking some debris got in there during the flush. Tomorrow I will pull it apart and see if I can get away with just a cleaning, otherwise I have to order a rebuild kit.

I guess for the purchase price, I am still way ahead.

Oh, the question. Have any of you guys ever done this, or even rebuilt one on these bikes?

 

[HHR]

You may have to remove the master and "bench bleed" it. It's always a pain to bleed those things once they pull a bunch of air.
I have attempted to take apart and clean ATV master cylinders with little success. I would often find the cylinder bore is corroded and would eat any new seals in a short order. At this point you have nothing to lose by taking it apart to clean and inspect.

 

[handirifle]

Yea I will have to have a look. I hope mine is an exception, otherwise it waits a week while mail order delivers the rebuild kit, or new one whichever is necessary.

 

[jejeosborne]

Question
I was flushing out the brake system today. The old fluid looked like mud coming out. THEN like an idiot, I was pumping and bleeding, then I hear this sucking sound....yes I ran the reservoir dry. It wasn't the first time I had gotten it low. I had filled it about 8-10 times already, just wasn't paying attention, at that moment.

So I started trying to bleed the bubbles out, and just when it ought to be coming around, I notice inside the master cylinder when I pull the brake handle I see something squirting up from inside the master cylinder. Not air, I am sure pressure is bleeding past the rubber cup inside the master cylinder. I am thinking some debris got in there during the flush. Tomorrow I will pull it apart and see if I can get away with just a cleaning, otherwise I have to order a rebuild kit.

I guess for the purchase price, I am still way ahead.

Oh, the question. Have any of you guys ever done this, or even rebuilt one on these bikes?

I bleed my brakes from the caliper up. I use a pressurized pump container that is designed to blow up water balloons that I modified. Turkey baster out from the resevoir.