Honda quad question

[handirifle]

Not sure if it's possible on a quad but on my ATC I was able to modify the battery box to accept a standard garden tractor battery. They are a lot cheaper and go on sale often. Being 250cc it doesn't take much to turn it over but the added battery capacity really helps if you add a winch. My 250sx was very cold blooded. Anything below zero made it all but impossible to start without draining all the juice out of the battery. Unless the engine was at operating temps the kick starter was worthless. Rejetting the carb made a world of difference. Now it'll start on the second kick no matter how cold. If you have the same carb it'll have lots of adjustments. I bet I waited 10 to 15 years before adjusting mine. Wish I had done it sooner.

I had wondered about that. Will have a closer look at it, when this one starts to go bad. Hopefully that will be a long time.

 

[Buggs67]

I had wondered about that. Will have a closer look at it, when this one starts to go bad. Hopefully that will be a long time.

Not much battery room on most of these. I get a WalMart battery and they last pretty good, but I drive my quad at least once a week. And my Honda also has a kick start (Kawasaki has a recoil pull start).

 

[handirifle]

Mine has a pull start

 

[handirifle]

Well, got her running like a top. Never did pull the carb, and may still have to at some point. It seems like it might have a float sticking or junk on the valve, cause it drips a little gas on the floor of my shop, through the bowl overflow tube. Not a huge concern for me at this point. I changed out the old brittle fuel line.

I have so far, freed the front brakes, cleaned and adjusted the brakes, front and rear. The idle speed on the carb was so low it barely ran, and is not running closer to factory setting of 1400RPM +-100. I put in new battery, and cleaned the entire bike. Today I changes the engine oil, and topped off the rear end, was just slightly low. I will today, flush the front brake hydraulics, the rear is manual drum. I adjusted the valves to factory specs (.005"). They were probably closer to .015" before adjusting.

I tried to use a buffer/polisher to clean up the oxidized plastic, but an hours work netted very little improvement. So it is slated for a summer time paint job with Krylon, which I understand works very well on plastic.

SO far it runs better than I could have ever hoped for (for the price) and is faster than I ever want to go with it. I am considering adding a HF winch to the front, for just in case, scenarios.

I couldn't be happier with the whole deal.

 

[handirifle]

Well, got her running like a top. Never did pull the carb, and may still have to at some point. It seems like it might have a float sticking or junk on the valve, cause it drips a little gas on the floor of my shop, through the bowl overflow tube. Not a huge concern for me at this point. I changed out the old brittle fuel line.

I have so far, freed the front brakes, cleaned and adjusted the brakes, front and rear. The idle speed on the carb was so low it barely ran, and is not running closer to factory setting of 1400RPM +-100. I put in new battery, and cleaned the entire bike. Today I changes the engine oil, and topped off the rear end, was just slightly low. I will today, flush the front brake hydraulics, the rear is manual drum. I adjusted the valves to factory specs (.005"). They were probably closer to .015" before adjusting.

I tried to use a buffer/polisher to clean up the oxidized plastic, but an hours work netted very little improvement. So it is slated for a summer time paint job with Krylon, which I understand works very well on plastic.

SO far it runs better than I could have ever hoped for (for the price) and is faster than I ever want to go with it. I am considering adding a HF winch to the front, for just in case, scenarios.

I couldn't be happier with the whole deal.

 

[dfkrug]

My 250sx was very cold blooded. Anything below zero made it all but impossible to start
without draining all the juice out of the battery. Unless the engine was at operating temps the kick starter was worthless.
Rejetting the carb made a world of difference. Now it'll start on the second kick no matter how cold.

I had the ATC250SX for a few years, and it ran great. Never changed the jetting, but I never tried starting it below
40F.Vermont is COLD.

Anyway, did you just change the low speed, or also the mid and main? The main needle on the CV carb may have
had multi position settings, if I recall. This is essentially the same carb you see on most of those 80s thumpers.

Virtually all of these carbureted ATVs can benefit from a richer low-speed jet, esp if made after 1997.

Good fix, AL.

 

[handirifle]

Question
I was flushing out the brake system today. The old fluid looked like mud coming out. THEN like an idiot, I was pumping and bleeding, then I hear this sucking sound....yes I ran the reservoir dry. It wasn't the first time I had gotten it low. I had filled it about 8-10 times already, just wasn't paying attention, at that moment.

So I started trying to bleed the bubbles out, and just when it ought to be coming around, I notice inside the master cylinder when I pull the brake handle I see something squirting up from inside the master cylinder. Not air, I am sure pressure is bleeding past the rubber cup inside the master cylinder. I am thinking some debris got in there during the flush. Tomorrow I will pull it apart and see if I can get away with just a cleaning, otherwise I have to order a rebuild kit.

I guess for the purchase price, I am still way ahead.

Oh, the question. Have any of you guys ever done this, or even rebuilt one on these bikes?

 

[HHR]

You may have to remove the master and "bench bleed" it. It's always a pain to bleed those things once they pull a bunch of air.
I have attempted to take apart and clean ATV master cylinders with little success. I would often find the cylinder bore is corroded and would eat any new seals in a short order. At this point you have nothing to lose by taking it apart to clean and inspect.

 

[handirifle]

Yea I will have to have a look. I hope mine is an exception, otherwise it waits a week while mail order delivers the rebuild kit, or new one whichever is necessary.

 

[jejeosborne]

Question
I was flushing out the brake system today. The old fluid looked like mud coming out. THEN like an idiot, I was pumping and bleeding, then I hear this sucking sound....yes I ran the reservoir dry. It wasn't the first time I had gotten it low. I had filled it about 8-10 times already, just wasn't paying attention, at that moment.

So I started trying to bleed the bubbles out, and just when it ought to be coming around, I notice inside the master cylinder when I pull the brake handle I see something squirting up from inside the master cylinder. Not air, I am sure pressure is bleeding past the rubber cup inside the master cylinder. I am thinking some debris got in there during the flush. Tomorrow I will pull it apart and see if I can get away with just a cleaning, otherwise I have to order a rebuild kit.

I guess for the purchase price, I am still way ahead.

Oh, the question. Have any of you guys ever done this, or even rebuilt one on these bikes?

I bleed my brakes from the caliper up. I use a pressurized pump container that is designed to blow up water balloons that I modified. Turkey baster out from the resevoir.