Bent stabilizer. Convert to ball bushing stabilizer?

[nova3930]

Yep, I noted the geometry issues when I was mulling it over this morning. I'm leaning towards just doing a pin replacement with the existing plate at this point. I think it has a higher probability of success...

 

[nova3930]

Based on my research the ID of that ball bushing is odd for a stabilizer. It's 3/4" which fits a Cat 1 top link pin, but nothing else. Cat 0 draw pins are 5/8 and Cat 1 draw pins are 7/8. Not gonna be an easy bolt on solution it seems. Gonna have to bust out the welder....

 

[Xfaxman]

Based on my research the ID of that ball bushing is odd for a stabilizer. It's 3/4" which fits a Cat 1 top link pin, but nothing else. Cat 0 draw pins are 5/8 and Cat 1 draw pins are 7/8. Not gonna be an easy bolt on solution it seems. Gonna have to bust out the welder....

A picture would help in trying to understand what you are trying to do.

3/4" pins are made in several lengths, or use a grade 8 3/4" bolt.

 

[nova3930]

A picture would help in trying to understand what you are trying to do.

3/4" pins are made in several lengths, or use a grade 8 3/4" bolt.

Here's the existing stabilizer bracket.


Here's the existing "pin and plate" setup that I broke.



Here's the new stabilizer bar and the old bracket



And the new stabilizer bar with a Cat 1 top link pin



The pin on the existing bracket, has too large an OD and is too short to fit the new stabilizer bar. I was hoping that I could cut off and drill out the existing pin and replace it with a either a Cat 0 or Cat 1 bolt in draw pin, but the ODs are wrong for both.

The working plan at the moment is to cut and drill the existing pin and weld in the Cat 1 top link pin, which has the right OD of 3/4". I thought about just getting a 3/4" bolt but it's a bit kludgy for my taste.

 

[Xfaxman]

Here's the existing stabilizer bracket.
------------------------------------------
The pin on the existing bracket, has too large an OD and is too short to fit the new stabilizer bar. I was hoping that I could cut off and drill out the existing pin and replace it with a either a Cat 0 or Cat 1 bolt in draw pin, but the ODs are wrong for both.

The working plan at the moment is to cut and drill the existing pin and weld in the Cat 1 top link pin, which has the right OD of 3/4". I thought about just getting a 3/4" bolt but it's a bit kludgy for my taste.

I have used bolts on that type ball end before. I like the fact that it makes it solid, no sliding on the pin, no pressure on the lynch pin.

I agree with your plan to cut and drill the existing pin, but I would bolt it. Just my :2cents:.

It is bound to be better than before! :thumbsup:

 

[nova3930]

It is bound to be better than before! :thumbsup:

Yah, I don't think there's a wrong way to do it really. Being the engineer that I am I tend to over think things sometimes...

 

[Xfaxman]

Yah, I don't think there's a wrong way to do it really. Being the engineer that I am I tend to over think things sometimes...

Yep, I didn't get a degree, because I went to the TLAR School of Engineering. (That Looks About Right)

 

[nova3930]

Yep, I didn't get a degree, because I went to the TLAR School of Engineering. (That Looks About Right)

you'd be amazed at how much guys with degrees use the TLAR method. I do it nearly every day :laughing:

 

[RKJeepXJ]

The more I look at that ball end version, it doesn't seem like you're really adding much strength in all this. The rectangular stock that bent and broke the first time looks to be the same piece, just welded to a ball end joint this time. I think if I was going to go to all this fabrication effort I'd retrofit a beefier complete adjustable link in place. Like from another tractor altogether.

 

[nova3930]

The more I look at that ball end version, it doesn't seem like you're really adding much strength in all this. The rectangular stock that bent and broke the first time looks to be the same piece, just welded to a ball end joint this time. I think if I was going to go to all this fabrication effort I'd retrofit a beefier complete adjustable link in place. Like from another tractor altogether.

It is the same piece. Fits perfectly in the remaining piece of the old stabilizer. My thought is that it appears the different locations of the rotation axes of the old design can result in a bind up that puts stress on the bar. The ball bushing should prevent the bind up and thus the stress on and breakage of the bar....

 

[nova3930]

The more I look at that ball end version, it doesn't seem like you're really adding much strength in all this. The rectangular stock that bent and broke the first time looks to be the same piece, just welded to a ball end joint this time. I think if I was going to go to all this fabrication effort I'd retrofit a beefier complete adjustable link in place. Like from another tractor altogether.

It is the same piece. Fits perfectly in the remaining piece of the old stabilizer. My thought is that it appears the different locations of the rotation axes of the old design can result in a bind up that puts stress on the bar. The ball bushing should prevent the bind up and thus the stress on and breakage of the bar....

 

[95d1]

I think you're right about the binding too. I think if you can take out the "play" you shouldn't have much of an issue. I have had the same problem and used square stock and drilled new holes. Something else will give first now.

 

[gphil12873]

I bent the piece of flat bar where it goes over the pin at the tractor. What I was thinking about doing is straighten out the flat bar with the hole back out and see if I can thread the pin and put a bolt and washer on it. Not sure how much room I would have on the short pin or would the pin hole cause it to be to weak to be threaded. Also I was going to make some little pie shaped pieces and weld on the top and bottom of the piece of flat bar for some added strength.

 

[Xfaxman]

I bent the piece of flat bar where it goes over the pin at the tractor. What I was thinking about doing is straighten out the flat bar with the hole back out and see if I can thread the pin and put a bolt and washer on it. Not sure how much room I would have on the short pin or would the pin hole cause it to be to weak to be threaded. Also I was going to make some little pie shaped pieces and weld on the top and bottom of the piece of flat bar for some added strength.

Pictures?

 

[nova3930]

Holidays plus a sick kid have slowed me down. Hope to get the retrofit done Saturday....

 

[nova3930]

Finally got around to doing the retrofit. About 45 minutes start to finish for the job. Cut off the existing pins with the chop saw, trip through the drill press for both, the assembly. Used grade 8 3/4-10 bolts I got from McMaster with matching nuts and washers with a coating that's rated for salt spray. Torqued down with a little blue thread locker and it should be good to go. Got to take the box blade to the driveway so I should have test results soon.




Ultimately it's probably a more solid connection than the old way with the clevis pins along with being less prone to binding...

 

[oldtoyboyd]

I hope it turns out good
I have got to do something to mine

 

[Xfaxman]

:thumbsup: Looks good, a little blurry, but good.

In fact I guarantee that it will not bend or break! (until it does) :laughing:

 

[nova3930]

Lol yeah my camera hand isn't very steady.

If this retrofit breaks then I'm fabbing up stabilizers from scratch out of something beefy. Probably square tubing on a ball bushing is the direction I'd go next.

 

[triptester]

Bent stabilizers are common on compact tractors due to the narrow wheel base. The shallow angle between the lift arms and the stabilizers links reduces the effectiveness of the links making them difficult to properly adjust. Consider that stabilizers were originally short lengths of chain. Chains are made for pulling motion. The stabilizer bars are no different than a chain they are only intended for a pulling motion, compression will bend them every time.

When properly adjusted there should be no side to side motion of the 3-point.