Bent stabilizer. Convert to ball bushing stabilizer?

[nova3930]

Yep, I noted the geometry issues when I was mulling it over this morning. I'm leaning towards just doing a pin replacement with the existing plate at this point. I think it has a higher probability of success...

 

[nova3930]

Based on my research the ID of that ball bushing is odd for a stabilizer. It's 3/4" which fits a Cat 1 top link pin, but nothing else. Cat 0 draw pins are 5/8 and Cat 1 draw pins are 7/8. Not gonna be an easy bolt on solution it seems. Gonna have to bust out the welder....

 

[Xfaxman]

Based on my research the ID of that ball bushing is odd for a stabilizer. It's 3/4" which fits a Cat 1 top link pin, but nothing else. Cat 0 draw pins are 5/8 and Cat 1 draw pins are 7/8. Not gonna be an easy bolt on solution it seems. Gonna have to bust out the welder....

A picture would help in trying to understand what you are trying to do.

3/4" pins are made in several lengths, or use a grade 8 3/4" bolt.

 

[nova3930]

A picture would help in trying to understand what you are trying to do.

3/4" pins are made in several lengths, or use a grade 8 3/4" bolt.

Here's the existing stabilizer bracket.


Here's the existing "pin and plate" setup that I broke.



Here's the new stabilizer bar and the old bracket



And the new stabilizer bar with a Cat 1 top link pin



The pin on the existing bracket, has too large an OD and is too short to fit the new stabilizer bar. I was hoping that I could cut off and drill out the existing pin and replace it with a either a Cat 0 or Cat 1 bolt in draw pin, but the ODs are wrong for both.

The working plan at the moment is to cut and drill the existing pin and weld in the Cat 1 top link pin, which has the right OD of 3/4". I thought about just getting a 3/4" bolt but it's a bit kludgy for my taste.

 

[Xfaxman]

Here's the existing stabilizer bracket.
------------------------------------------
The pin on the existing bracket, has too large an OD and is too short to fit the new stabilizer bar. I was hoping that I could cut off and drill out the existing pin and replace it with a either a Cat 0 or Cat 1 bolt in draw pin, but the ODs are wrong for both.

The working plan at the moment is to cut and drill the existing pin and weld in the Cat 1 top link pin, which has the right OD of 3/4". I thought about just getting a 3/4" bolt but it's a bit kludgy for my taste.

I have used bolts on that type ball end before. I like the fact that it makes it solid, no sliding on the pin, no pressure on the lynch pin.

I agree with your plan to cut and drill the existing pin, but I would bolt it. Just my :2cents:.

It is bound to be better than before! :thumbsup:

 

[nova3930]

It is bound to be better than before! :thumbsup:

Yah, I don't think there's a wrong way to do it really. Being the engineer that I am I tend to over think things sometimes...

 

[Xfaxman]

Yah, I don't think there's a wrong way to do it really. Being the engineer that I am I tend to over think things sometimes...

Yep, I didn't get a degree, because I went to the TLAR School of Engineering. (That Looks About Right)

 

[nova3930]

Yep, I didn't get a degree, because I went to the TLAR School of Engineering. (That Looks About Right)

you'd be amazed at how much guys with degrees use the TLAR method. I do it nearly every day :laughing:

 

[RKJeepXJ]

The more I look at that ball end version, it doesn't seem like you're really adding much strength in all this. The rectangular stock that bent and broke the first time looks to be the same piece, just welded to a ball end joint this time. I think if I was going to go to all this fabrication effort I'd retrofit a beefier complete adjustable link in place. Like from another tractor altogether.

 

[nova3930]

The more I look at that ball end version, it doesn't seem like you're really adding much strength in all this. The rectangular stock that bent and broke the first time looks to be the same piece, just welded to a ball end joint this time. I think if I was going to go to all this fabrication effort I'd retrofit a beefier complete adjustable link in place. Like from another tractor altogether.

It is the same piece. Fits perfectly in the remaining piece of the old stabilizer. My thought is that it appears the different locations of the rotation axes of the old design can result in a bind up that puts stress on the bar. The ball bushing should prevent the bind up and thus the stress on and breakage of the bar....