BX25D backhoe ripper question

[Mowbizz]

Just thinking out loud.....
Replace the center tooth of the bucket with a longer tooth from something else so it would function as the "ripper" when doing stumps and could switch it back to the normal tooth for digging?????

That's a great idea! Sign me up for one! C'mon fabricators...this sounds like a no brainer for you guys~

 

[GolfAddict]

That's a great idea! Sign me up for one! C'mon fabricators...this sounds like a no brainer for you guys~

That is an interesting idea. And I'm not sure you'd really need to switch it back out normally. You could use your grinder to put a nice sharp edge on the long tooth...

 

[Shutesbury]

I was looking at the angle a bit too, and am guessing that his angle was to maintain the "bucketing" action while still allowing for some ripping.

That is, if you go to start digging with the bucket and the ripper stuck out at the angle you describe, it seems the ripper would be in the way and prevent a full curl of the bucket. The ripper would contact and dig into the ground out beyond the bucket.

Exactly right, GolfAddict. It is a 2008 BX24 bucket. I've been using it infrequently for more than a year, and I did notice today that the third hole out... closest to the business end of the [ standard boxblade ripper tooth, from Tractor Supply ] has elongated a bit, but there's no cracking of the sidewalls at all. I have no reinforced the sides, but may do that down the road.

The BX is a fantastic machine, and I've taken out some huge stumps, but the downside to our smaller capacity hydraulics is that it takes longer to get the big ones, not having the brute force to rock them. Once I have a trench around them, though, with the ripper at that angle, I can poke inward and upward between the roots to strip out the soil locking the stump in place. I can then *use* the bucket to scoop out those strippings, and continue on. It works well to more quickly break the stump free from it's cradle.

I figured that if I had the tooth more aligned with the scooping angle of the bucket, I couldn't curl backward and upward to strip the hidden soil sections out from between the roots, nor would I have the full reach of about ten inches into the root balls. I was also afraid I might hit the machine when fully retracted inward. As it is positioned now, I can split the difference between the bucket teeth and ripper tooth hitting the ground when driving.

I don't always use it, but try to be sure I have it available when planning to do bigger stumps on a job site. It's held on by three 3/4"(?) bolts, with lock washers on each side. When plucking out smaller rocks in a lawn, or picking away at surface roots, it can minimize the size of the hole, just as a dedicated ripper head does. It is solid enough that I can lift the back end of the machine up, just pushing against the ripper... I try not to, but it happens, even with loaded rear tires. If I get uncomfortable with the amount of wear in the bolt holes, I'd just remount it on the other side. I just find I tend to favor leaning to see the left side when digging, so that's where it went first. Eventually I may need to replace the bucket, though I'd think I could weld side plates on instead. I haven't noticed any slop in the pins from the offset pull of the ripper.

Paul

 

[Deano]

I was looking at the angle a bit too, and am guessing that his angle was to maintain the "bucketing" action while still allowing for some ripping.

That is, if you go to start digging with the bucket and the ripper stuck out at the angle you describe, it seems the ripper would be in the way and prevent a full curl of the bucket. The ripper would contact and dig into the ground out beyond the bucket.

You do make a good point!

 

[OzarksHermit]

I ordered this ripper last week, & thanks to ryan08's timely information, I was able to add the pins to my order after a credit card glitch delayed my shipment.

It arrived today, & I think I was able to figure this issue out. I too was unable to get the DR pins to pass thru the Kubota pieces, so I compared the diameter of the Kubota bucket pin to the diameter of the DR pin. Turns out the DR pin is just a couple thousandths over 1", but the Kubota pin measured about .978.
Since .984 = 25mm, I think the obvious answer is that the Kubota pieces are metric, & the DR pins (& mounting holes) are SAE.

Close enough for me though, I chucked the pins up in my lathe, & whittled about .010 off to get the diameter to about .980". I left the first 1" untouched to keep the pin tight in one side of the ripper. Not sure if I will try to come up with something to bush the other hole to the new dimension, or add some .010 shim stock when mounting it. Will probably just use it without anything unless I plan on using it for a long project. Or since the pin is bolted to the ripper & rotates in the Kubota pieces, it might make sense to just deform the holes in the ripper slightly on that side.

Also worth noting is that the machine that this was designed for has about the same breakout force as does the backhoe on my BX24, so I don't think it is underbuilt for this application. Seems pretty sturdy.

First, thanks for all the info you have provided here. I have a question:
Do the DR pins attach to the bucket the same as Kubotas? In other words, do they have the short piece that secures the pin on one side?

I definitely will order the DR ripper along with the pins - I have a full machine shop, so will turn down the pins as you did, but will reduce the diameter on the "shimmed end" more ( maybe 1/16 or more) , and then put a larger diameter shim on that end to fit the DR hole.

thanks

Ken

 

[ryan08]

Ken,

The DR pins do not attach the same way the Kubota pins do. The Ripper has a "through hole" that a bolt is put through to hold the pin in. The pins are drilled with the hole already.

I still have not found a machine shop that will turn my pins down with out charging me a fortune so I have not had the fun of using my set-up yet. Want to earn a few extra bucks and turn mine when you do yours?

Ryan

 

[OzarksHermit]

Thanks Ryan

I thought about this some more last night - do the DR pins have grease fittings? Sounds like they do not.

I am a little concerned about greasing the Kubota when using the ripper for a long period - like on a large stump. I/m not sure how the kubota pins are made - I guess they must have a small hole through the pin so grease can reach the far end.

I'm considering purchasing some 1" barstock from McMaster Carr, for the pins. Depending on the steel, a 1" Dia by 1" long piece is around $10.00 (need two pieces) .

Adding a Zerk fitting to the end would be easy, but drilling a small hole through the length of the shaft might present some problems. I suppose a shallow, narrow slot could be milled across the length to provide a passage for grease.

Still thinking about this. I certainly could machine your pins if it comes to that.

Ken

 

[OzarksHermit]

After searching my stash of steel rods, I discovered I have several lengths of 1" dia rod. After polishing off the surface rust, they Mike out at 0.998 - - close enough. I am going to order the DR ripper, and machine my own pins. Rather than trying to drill entirely through the pin (for a grease passage), I will simply drill from each end, and put a Zerk fitting on each end. Will also see about shimming the pins on one end, as I mentioned previously.

If all works out, I'll post some pix when done

Ken

 

[like2wheel]

No need to drill both ends (you can't anyway, because the thru bolt hole will interrupt the flow on that end), you only need to drill about 2 1/4" to get past the first bushing inside the Kubota pieces. From there it opens up some, & the grease will surround the pin & flow to the other side. Of course you need to cross drill to wherever you stop to give a path out for the grease. The Kubota pin is drilled about half way, but that's not really necessary. You're also gonna want to counterbore enough to recess the fitting big enough to fit a grease coupler.

I decided not to bush the end I turned down, because the fit was not much different than on my low hour backhoe bucket, and that piece doesn't even have a boss to hold the pin, just a hole in the plate. The ripper has much more robust pin bosses. And since the pin is the correct size for the machine, nothing orange is subject to wear. Another option is to grind off the bosses on the ripper & weld on some with the 25mm ID.

For those not wanting to mess with machining pins, you might try ordering the Kubota pins that are next up on the dipper stick. They are the correct length, are retained by a thru bolt like the ripper, & already drilled for grease. Then you could either live with the slightly sloppy fit on the ripper (I suspect the guy that wrote the review on the DR website did just that), shim the bosses with some .010" brass, or tighten the fit of the bosses by deforming or replacing them. Remember the pin does not rotate in the ripper tooth. Not sure of the price of the Kubota pins though.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I've used flushmount grease fittings instead of machining a recess for standard fittings.