Stepped off, and it almost tipped over (lifting a snowmobile) !

[Sodo]

Gary, I've been thinking about his. The axle swivel does inform you that the load center has moved outward, towards the tire. On level ground it's mostly a help. If the load center passes over the tire patch (and if a rear wheel is up), before it contacts the stop, then it's going over. Am I right?

 

[SPYDERLK]

Cant weld anymore.

OK how far (in inches) does the TBN engineering squad estimate that the wood beam will sag? It's 5.75" x 7.5" x 242" long, Douglas fir.

About 1/2" initially. Then slowly over the years.

 

[Sodo]

About 1/2" initially. Then slowly over the years.

I like James Koua estimate better, but SPYDER can you explain how you estimated the 1/2"? Always interested in real experience (and the time factor). Note that the 6x8 beam is a span, the other beam/2x8 rimjoist is attached to the post in the middle.

Here's a pic of an internet calculator result (called "sagulator"). It estimated 0.15" with a distributed load. I chose "fixed" because the other span is attached to the 'wall' in the center, so only the 6x8 is deflecting.

If I positioned both snowmobiles with (heavier) engines at the shelf center it would deflect more, and obviously if they were stored tail-to-tail it would deflect less. I think I 'll set them tail to tail next time. I measured the sag after snowmobiles added (as in the pic) and real-life, measured INITIAL deflection down was 3/16" = .19. Sagulator Note 2 says wood tends to deflect an additional 50% over time, so it will go to .28, a little more than 1/4".

PS: If I change the sagulator to "floating" then add the rimjoist strength to the beam dims (so now it's 7.5 x 7.5) then the deflection is .38. Anyway SPYDER you are right in there.

Lotsa gearboy speak here but I like this stuff. Also like clear span!

 

[MH8675309]

Regardless of your snowmobile moving skills - Nice job on the shelfs! Now you got me thinking,,,

 

[mguitas]

Why is the loader so high. Carry your load low and get some counterweight. Good way to twist the loader arms and tractor frame.

I agree George, why are they so high.

 

[2 banger]

Kubota B2710 lifting a 475 lb snowmobile on the brushfork.

I started to step off (to take a pic) and my weight leaving the tractor started it to tip. I leaned out to try to stop it but it kept going, until it came up against the stops on the front axle WHEW!. Was just about to throw the FEL down, which would have dropped the snowmobile.

I sat there for a moment realizing it was stable, and then carefully stepped off completely because now I HAD to take a pic. I pushed on it a little to confirm it was stable, and it was, so I quickly took a pic and climbed back on, and lowered the loader very very slowly, and the rear wheel came down.

I need to build a 3-pt ballast ASAP, thinking about just casting it in concrete. Does anybody have suggestions how heavy it needs to be?

The moral of this story is to keep any front lifted load as close as possible to the ground while moving it. As a licensed forklift operator I can tell you that is one of the first things they teach you. As far as your counter-weight is concerned, check the weight capacity of your loader. Your counter-weight can be something less than that, taking into consideration the rear axle weight of the tractor.

 

[electron642]

I don't have forks for the front, but when I do serious work with my loader bucket I will attach my 5 foot tiller to the the back. Not sure exactly what the tiller weighs, but it settles the back down pretty good. Also, like someone else mentioned; carry heavy loads as low as possible, only lifting them higher when you have too.

 

[Ghive]

I sure hope the naysayers view this. As all can see from the photo, it is a long way from tipping over when the front axle hits the stops.

I have been trying to tell folks that the front axle does help in tipping situations but all I get is, "IT swivels and by the time it hits, it is too far gone" Well this photo proves that it isn't too far and the front axle definitely does help prevent a roll over. Putting ballast in the front tires would certainly help also.

My Kubota manual for my B 3200 tells me NOT to load front tires.
I'm just giving info from manual.

 

[robpm]

Sodo, thanks for the picture. I once was using my friends Kubota for moving a lot of fill and I was on a slant and started to lift a load of dirt with the FEL and the rear tire was lifting. I put the bucket down low and it brought the rear wheel back. But it brought the pucker factor up. I have had my JD 990 with one wheel off before but it was controllable based upon the situation. I know that some have said you were crazy to get off and take the pic. And you might have been but we are all benefiting by it especially those who are new to tractors or who have never experienced something like this. It can help cement the need for ballast as well and as many have commented to keep it low and slow but again you had a purpose and I understand your purpose. You were not seeking to do something crazy or act irresponsible. I'm thankful for the pic as I said and I'm thankful that you providentially were able to obtain it and the tractor and snow mobile were not damaged in any way and that especially you were not hurt.

I like your setup for storing your snomobile's!

 

[Harry Palmer]

I own a Case IH DX24E sub-compact. A couple of years ago I was trying to clear the community irrigation ditch so I could water. I was moving backwards and the left rear tire hit a bump of packed earth. Since the ditch was very narrow (just wider than the tractor) and my FEL was lifted, I ended up rolling onto the side of the ditch. My feet didn't stay on the deck, which meant my right leg went under the tractor. I was very lucky since the east side of the ditch was so close the tractor was sitting at a 45ｰ angle. The ground was soft enough where I could dig out by hand. My leg was scraped but not broken. I was out of site of everyone and the house was over 500 yards from where I was lying.

I was very lucky not to have been seriously injured. I use my box scraper as counter-balance but this ditch doesn't allow a whole lot of room. A couple of days ago I took the tractor back into the ditch, but this time I worked on widening it to six feet and trying to level it. It still has a slope, but since it runs behind the neighbors place I'm not that concerned. I get water this week (6"/acre) which is the only water I get for the year. Ten years with sub-par rain really hurts. My allowance is 36", but I haven't seen that in ten years.

Lesson: using the seat belt can save your life, keeping your feet on the deck is very good (if you can do it). The narrow width of this tractor means I have to be extra careful when working on any type of slope. Although I attempt to avoid crossing slopes, sometimes you have to do so.

Question: I am thinking I might want to add the weight to the tires so I can be balanced. However, what effect will that have when I pull a box blade or a disk-harrow?

 

[k0ua]

I own a Case IH DX24E sub-compact. A couple of years ago I was trying to clear the community irrigation ditch so I could water. I was moving backwards and the left rear tire hit a bump of packed earth. Since the ditch was very narrow (just wider than the tractor) and my FEL was lifted, I ended up rolling onto the side of the ditch. My feet didn't stay on the deck, which meant my right leg went under the tractor. I was very lucky since the east side of the ditch was so close the tractor was sitting at a 45ｰ angle. The ground was soft enough where I could dig out by hand. My leg was scraped but not broken. I was out of site of everyone and the house was over 500 yards from where I was lying.

I was very lucky not to have been seriously injured. I use my box scraper as counter-balance but this ditch doesn't allow a whole lot of room. A couple of days ago I took the tractor back into the ditch, but this time I worked on widening it to six feet and trying to level it. It still has a slope, but since it runs behind the neighbors place I'm not that concerned. I get water this week (6"/acre) which is the only water I get for the year. Ten years with sub-par rain really hurts. My allowance is 36", but I haven't seen that in ten years.

Lesson: using the seat belt can save your life, keeping your feet on the deck is very good (if you can do it). The narrow width of this tractor means I have to be extra careful when working on any type of slope. Although I attempt to avoid crossing slopes, sometimes you have to do so.

Question: I am thinking I might want to add the weight to the tires so I can be balanced. However, what effect will that have when I pull a box blade or a disk-harrow?

Any weight you add to the tires will only help when you pull an implement. The traction will be increased, and you will be able to pull your box blade with more materiel in it and pull your disk easier.

 

[Code54]

Yep - James hit the nail right on the head. Weight is your friend for ground work

 

[hdvrod12]

I've got a New Holland Boomer 40 and made a rear ballast using a 55 gallon barrel . I took it to a concrete plant and when they had alittle extra in the truck they filled my barrel . They said it took about 1/2 yard of concrete . COST OF CONCRETE $ 25.00

 

[dragoneggs]

I've got a New Holland Boomer 40 and made a rear ballast using a 55 gallon barrel . I took it to a concrete plant and when they had alittle extra in the truck they filled my barrel . They said it took about 1/2 yard of concrete . COST OF CONCRETE $ 25.00

Good thinking... can you hook it up easily to your three point hitch?

 

[hdvrod12]

Yes ,very easy . Just back up to the barrel ,lower the 3 pt and mark where the hitch pins shoud go ( note ) lower all the way down and mark about 2 '' above then cut a hole just so the pins will go thru the barrel . Bolt pins in place , then weld a piece of angle iron from one pin to the other inside the barrel , after that you need to weld a piece of U channel for you adj. top link . make sure you angle it forward towards the back of the tractor and about 2" above the barrel .Then just fill w/ concrete. I will try to post some pics in a day or so

 

[dragoneggs]

Yes ,very easy . Just back up to the barrel ,lower the 3 pt and mark where the hitch pins shoud go ( note ) lower all the way down and mark about 2 '' above then cut a hole just so the pins will go thru the barrel . Bolt pins in place , then weld a piece of angle iron from one pin to the other inside the barrel , after that you need to weld a piece of U channel for you adj. top link . make sure you angle it forward towards the back of the tractor and about 2" above the barrel .Then just fill w/ concrete. I will try to post some pics in a day or so

Please do... I am thinking of a smaller version for my BX. A 55gal drum might flip me backward... :laughing: What is the weight of your drum?

 

[Sodo]

Sodo, thanks for the picture. <snip> I know that some have said you were crazy to get off and take the pic.

As I wrote, I determined it was stable before getting off (and getting off on the high side). It was perhaps more stable as shown in the pic, than during the lowering process.

2 things to think about here.

1) As the loader comes down, the load center moves FORWARD which makes a bad problem WORSE. I was very much afraid that upon lowering it, it would lift the other rear wheel. Then I'd have to lower QUICKLY and drop the snowmobile for certain. But I lowered it very slowly and it worked out.

2) While I was off the tractor, I should have attached weight to the rear of the tractor until it came down. There are many many easy ways. Just a 4X4 wedged in somewhere and hang a bag of chains on it, for example.

 

[hdvrod12]

Really don't know it's weight but you could use a 35 gallon barrel instead . Just guessing mine weighs about 750 - 1000 lbs

 

[jimpen]

From Yahoo answers:, the weight per cubic yard can vary from less than 2000 lbs to nearly 3500 lbs;

So figure his 1/2 cu yd is about 1375.

 

[bcp]

Concrete is about 18-20 pounds per gallon, and around 140-150 pounds per cubic foot.

Bruce