Stepped off, and it almost tipped over (lifting a snowmobile) !

[Sodo]

I was testing to see how high it could lift the snowmobile, because I was building a summer storage shelf for it. Then I got the idea to take a pic for TBN, and moved the tractor out where lighting was better. That's where the judgement went wrong, it's your fault (you dragoneggs! always wants 'action').

"IT swivels and by the time it hits, it is too far gone" Well this photo proves that it isn't too far and the front axle definitely does help prevent a roll over.

Gary, I think I see what you mean, it's telling you that you're on the edge. Whereas if you had no indicator (the tipping - then a 'stop') its just going to continue, and actually tip over. I have had it tip up like this many many times (against the axle stop), just never before with a load so high. I'm glad the snowmobile didn't shift during this 'test'.

I think you mean "rear" wheel ballast? I filled the tires on a BX24 that I had because I found myself attaching the Backhoe for counterweight. Filled tires were very convenient, not having to 'attach' a weight and a counterweight hanging out there risks back into stuff. Plus being flat free. Quote for the B2710 rear wheels (12.4x16) is $494 each, or $988 + tx =$1070. Convenience is worthwhile but $1070 is not convenient….. (291lbs per wheel = 582 lbs.)

What conditions are there where permanent weight is a hindrance?

 

[s219]

I'm actually amazed you got that load that high before it started getting dicey!!

I have come to learn that rear tire ballast is simply there to counteract the FEL. With any heavy loads in the FEL, additional rear ballast is a must to counteract the load itself.

On my B2920, my 50" Howse box blade was enough ballast in most all cases, to cover the range of loads the FEL could handle. However, on my L3200, the bigger 60" box blade (also Howse) just isn't heavy enough. I can feel the rear tires getting light well before the FEL hydraulics stop lifting. So I'll have to rig something up. Might just build a tray on top of the box blade to take some additional weights, since I often am using the box blade on the same projects where I'll be lifting heavy loads in front. For the time being I have been putting heavy oak firewood rounds on top of the box, but they are not the easiest objects to move around.

 

[Sodo]

It seemed OK then 'got dicey' when I moved (traveled) with the load up high (for a better pic'). When the load is at hood height, it's actually farther forward - as the FEL gets higher, the load comes back, (towards the rear wheels) putting more weight on the rear. So if you can imagine, being in that position, THEN having to lower it (where the weight advances forward) was scary. I should have stayed off the tractor (while it was stable) and piled weight on the back, before climbing back on. I can think of many ways to do this (now). I could have curled the bucket back (to bring the load back) too but was afraid of the load shifting.

Live and learn.

Here's another pic with a counterweight of ~450 lbs. I chainsawed a couple holes for the 3-pt arms to poke into. I often back into stuff with it there, it reduces mobility for sure.

 

[Roadbuilder6]

not trying to be a jerk but I will be blunt. Two things, first I don't know what you were unloading it from, but still why would you have the snowmobile that high for any amount of time. Second in you description it says you own a mini excavator. Why didn't you use that?

 

[Raised on a Deere]

Many posters on other threads making comments relative to FEL tractor stability issues seem to not realize the front axel is not doing anything to keep the load upright until you hit the stops. Said another way they seem to not realize the weight on the rear tire patch is the only determinate in keeping the load upright. Any load on the FEL subtracts from that weight and the front axel just provides a near zero resistance pivot for the load to go over until she hits the stops and then it just may be too late.

 

[Gary Fowler]

not trying to be a jerk but I will be blunt. Two things, first I don't know what you were unloading it from, but still why would you have the snowmobile that high for any amount of time. Second in you description it says you own a mini excavator. Why didn't you use that?

He answered that question in a post #11 if you bothered to read them all. He was going to build a storage structure for the snowmobile and wanted to see how high he could lift it so he could build it high but not to high. His error was in not having any counterweight on the tractor, also travelling with the FEL too high both instances could have been a disaster but his luck held. With proper rear ballast, he should have no trouble lifting the snowmobile to full height safely. I would just note that it is safest and best practice to keep the load low to the ground till reaching the destination and then raise to full height and creep forward. When removing the snowmobile and having to back up with it on, be very slow about backing up as it will tend to tip you over faster especially if you are backing up even a slight slope. Put plenty of counter weight on, as much as your OEM will allow. I like to keep my backhoe on for the best counter weight. If more is needed, I can scoop up a full bucket and extend the hoe full back or even to the high side when travelling on a slope for greatest counterweight effect.

 

[skyhook]

It certainly was at it's limit, even if it hit the stop's,
a heavy wind, a quicker lift on the snowmobile, and throw in a 'little' slope, not much,
and i think it would have went over.
Definitely not something you want to rely on (the stop's).
As you could see in this instance,
just the drivers weight kept it level, in this case and scenario, very fortunate.
Again, thanks for the pic, it is an eye opener for some.

 

[Baby Grand]

I viewed it and all I have to say is "Nay".
You were either very lucky, very skilled or both.
Yes, hitting the hard stop moves the tractor's roll center outboard keeps the tractor from rolling about the pivot any more that it already has.
It doesn't change the high CG or the resulting basic instability of the arrangement and the risk that the whole tractor will rotate about it's new roll center.
A little softer soil, a slightly different slope to the ground or a gopher hole and it would have gone over.
Not to mention that you have most of that weight concentrated on your front left wheel - that's not a great recipe for long axle life.

 

[BuilderML]

Glad you made it out safe and sound....and thank you for taking the pic.:thumbsup: On a scale of 1-10 what was the pucker factor at???:laughing:

 

[RickB]

Glad you made it out safe and sound....and thank you for taking the pic.:thumbsup: On a scale of 1-10 what was the pucker factor at???:laughing:

Clearly the pucker factor was not high enough to cause him to lower the sled to the ground and remove himself, his tractor and his sled from impending danger. The Darwin Principle missed out on a statistic here. Taking time for a pic in these circumstances is just plain dumb.