Hard starting Jinma 354

[gergstuff]

I have a Jinma 354 2007? It has very few hours on it, 30? Now that cooler weather has arrived it has become very difficult to get it started. I had an a-ha moment reading some other threads yesterday not realizing that holding the key in the "H' postion would activate the glow plugs and in theory make starting easier. So last night I was out there and could hear a click when I held the key in the "H" postion. I held it there for at least 20 seconds, cranks fine but would not start. I did this perhaps 4-5 times before it finally started but that is no different than the way it would start before I realized "H" activated glow plugs. So, I am assuiming something is amiss with the glow plugs or the circuit. Any idea how to test to see where the fault is?

I should be able to move it inside as soon as my shop is completed but it would be nice to have it start easier and save the starter, etc.

Thanks for the anticipated help!

Craig

 

[SPIKER]

Might check to make sure the FUSE for the glow circuit is OK and then make sure the WIRE to the GLOW PLUG BUS BAR is hooked up. Some of the 354's came WITHOUT glow plugs and other have complained there were glow plugs but no wires.

The H is the HEAT and 20 Seconds is TOO LONG 10 seconds max for these tractors.

Look at the Left Side of the HEAD close to where the FUEL Injectors are there should be some spark plug looking things those are the glow plugs. there should be a 3/8" wide copper bar between them all. the Wire should be from the fuse to the end of that bar, maybe connected UNDER the end glow plug. The CLICK is or should be a Relay turning on and powering the glow plugs.

Mark

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I have a 2007 354. When the glow plugs are working, when I put the key into the H position the ammeter is pinned, all the way past 30 Amps. As they warm up the resistance increases and the current drops. I usually hold the key until the ammeter gets to 20-25 and then try starting. Actually, what I usually do is use the compression release and crank until the oil pressure comes up, then stop cranking and apply glow plugs, then crank with compression release until the oil pressure comes up again, then release the compression release and keep cranking.

On mine the fuse is only 30A and blows all the time.

 

[Rich Waugh]

These tractors come from the factory with no relay in the glow plug circuit, though they certainly need one. As already noted, half the time they're not even hooked up, or missing altogether. I'd start by getting a 12v 40 amp relay and installing it in the glow plug circuit so the key switch is only handling an amp or so for the relay coil. Then run a piece of 8 or 10 gauge wire from the battery positive to the relay contacts and another from the other contact on the relay to the glow plug bus bar. If you want to do it even better, run the heavy wire so it goes through the ammeter so you can tell if the plugs are heating by watching the current draw drop off.

 

[Soundguy]

to the op. have you checked for power at the GP BUSS BAR WHEN HOLDING key in heat?

( sorry for caps. darn tablet.. )

 

[CanuckShooter]

You say cooler weather.....

I installed an inline coolant heater in my rad hoses....the little tractor starts much better when it's been plugged in, and I am out in the snow in -35C sometimes.

 

[Mr Bitz]

I have a buddy that has a 2008 Jinma 254 and that thing starts horrible in colder weather, he has put an inline heater in the lower radiator hose as well as a magnetic heater and also has covered up the engine with sheet metal and insulation to keep the heat in.. It starts great in cold weather as long as the engine is warm ha ha:laughing: I'm thinking these Jinma's are warm blooded.. Can't seem to find if you can get an actual block heater for them.. Keep that engine warm and it'll start every time..

 

[greg_g]

Glow plugs?

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

I have a buddy that has a 2008 Jinma 254 and that thing starts horrible in colder weather, he has put an inline heater in the lower radiator hose as well as a magnetic heater and also has covered up the engine with sheet metal and insulation to keep the heat in.. It starts great in cold weather as long as the engine is warm ha ha:laughing: I'm thinking these Jinma's are warm blooded.. Can't seem to find if you can get an actual block heater for them.. Keep that engine warm and it'll start every time..

I say he has an issue with the glow plugs or his starting method, my 284 starts great... I've fired mine in -30 before with a few additional warmers on the machine but had done it with glow plugs only @-20F NOT that i wanted to work in those temps....

Mark

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yea, he has a glow plug issue or just does not know how to use them. Mine has started fine for 11 winters now.

Chris

 

[bjr]

I got 12 winters on my Jm354. It's been a good starter. I've modified my tank valve to a 1/4" needle valve. I've only had to use the glow plugs one winter +5 F that day with wind. It's not a shedded baby either it sets out in the open. bjr

 

[gergstuff]

Ok, there are glow plugs all connected by a copper buss bar. Fuse is ok and there is a wire connected to the buss bar I was not able to determine if the wire is hooked to anything...too dark and rainy. Killed the battery trying to get it started. It doesnt seem to draw any more amps when the key is held in h. Must be an answer in there somewhere.

 

[greg_g]

Buss bar wire is typically green, and should have a #5 tag on both ends. Understandably you lose you lose it in the wiring harness, but the other end is connected to the HEAT post on the back of the keyswitch. If you have access to a multi-meter, set it to measure DC in the lowest range that will read 12 volts. Put the positive lead on the buss bar, and the negative lead on the negative post of the battery. Have someone turn the keyswitch to HEAT. If you see 12v, your switch and wiring is good. If less than 12v, you need to clean some connections or add a relay and larger gauge wire. If no voltage, either the wiring has been compromised or the switch has gone bad.

//greg//

 

[gergstuff]

OK, I do have a multimeter and will delve a little deeper into it this evening assuming it isn't raining cats and dogs again....
Thanks for the advice!

 

[gergstuff]

Well there must be a break somewhere in the wiring between the start switch and the buss bar. I have volate at the switch, nothing at the buss bar. I hooked up a jumper wire from the switch to the buss bar and was getting voltage at the buss bar and find that it starts MUCH easier with the glow plugs working...

I will rig up a more permanant wire tonight.

I wanted to park it in my new garage but found it will not fit with the roof on it. Roof is coming off (the tractor)...

 

[Soundguy]

can add in a solenoid ( relay ) and a push button and just hit the button and kick the solenoid in for a bit.. then start up.. etc..

 

[greg_g]

Use 10AWG stranded wire (primary wire) if you're going straight from the switch to the buss bar. Any smaller diameter will not deliver max voltage to the GPs. If you elect to install a relay (solenoid), the OE wire will do between the keyswitch and the relay. But go with 10AWG between the relay and (a) the battery and (b) the buss bar.

//greg//

 

[succor]

I went with a 40 amp relay; much safer on the key switch!