piper184
Platinum Member
I know I have the specs somewhere but can't find them. I did find them on page 16 of this document (not my posting, so it won't go on my web page)
Jimna 254 hard starting
- Thread starter Jimmy254
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Handy looking document. Jumping ahead of myself here but Adjustment of Advance angle of supply fuel is listed as one of the causes of difficult start. Haven't come across this adjustment before or even seen it mentioned on this forum. Might be something I look at checking when it is convenient.
Looks like replacing the positive terminal connector on the battery may have improved things. Last couple of starts have been immediate. Cant discern any difference in the cranking speed. Ive been heating glow plugs for 30secs which seems a bit much given the mild temps but seems to work. On another note what is the latest consensus on switching the front wheels to get a wider track. Ive done the back. On reading some posts on this forum seems to be some division about doing it. Could it cause front end issues or not likely? Id like to do it.
Finally put the jinma to some work today clearing shrubs and small growth. Goes well but would love for it to have a bash plate underneath to stop sticks and branches from flicking up and hitting the fan and alternator but also to protect from rocks. FEL jerkiness is the biggest issue. Just when i think i have it going smooth it plays up again but it is most likely a skill and practice thing.
piper184
Platinum Member
A skid plate under the front end is something I have never seen. You would have to fabricate something from scratch. Brackets on the battery box, maybe where the factory weights would hang, then some more brackets from the frame farther back. If your FEL frame has the mounting brackets for a backhoe you might be able to make something that clamps on the FEL frame where the tube is pinned to the bracket on the battery box and then extend all the way back to the backhoe mounting holes. That would be a big plate and you would loose quite a lot of clearance underneath.
There was a belt guard for the alternator when it was new. It cracked at a mounting tab and I took it off for repair but never got around to it. It's never been an issue.
I did run over a large frozen windrow of ice and snow one time and put a significant bend in the tie rod. Sure messed up the toe in adjustment! It is soft steel and was easy to straighten.
For FEL jerkyness, as far as I know the only cure is to get a better quality control valve assembly. The OEM ones are not machined to the tightest tolerances and can do all kinds of strange things when trying to make small adjustments. They work but only in a rather crude manor. That was the most expensive upgrade I have done, and it was well worth it. I now have fine adjustment control over the loader cylinders with the added bonus of a "float" position which is really handy sometimes. The new valve also has the ability to have "power beyond" for additional hydraulic functions. My intent is to someday buy or make a grapple fork for the loader. Someday....
There was a belt guard for the alternator when it was new. It cracked at a mounting tab and I took it off for repair but never got around to it. It's never been an issue.
I did run over a large frozen windrow of ice and snow one time and put a significant bend in the tie rod. Sure messed up the toe in adjustment! It is soft steel and was easy to straighten.
For FEL jerkyness, as far as I know the only cure is to get a better quality control valve assembly. The OEM ones are not machined to the tightest tolerances and can do all kinds of strange things when trying to make small adjustments. They work but only in a rather crude manor. That was the most expensive upgrade I have done, and it was well worth it. I now have fine adjustment control over the loader cylinders with the added bonus of a "float" position which is really handy sometimes. The new valve also has the ability to have "power beyond" for additional hydraulic functions. My intent is to someday buy or make a grapple fork for the loader. Someday....
My alternator belt guard also had a broken tab. I left it off when changing the fanbelt. That was a mistake. Yesterday a stick bent the alternator pulley fan causing it to rub against the new belt so ill put the gaurd back on but it is obviously at risk of being damaged as is the cooling fan. Ive got a bend in the tie rod too but not too bad. My tie rod ball joints need replacing as does the steering ram boot cover. The steering seems to turn the wheels alarmingly too much to the left or right, there doesnt seem to be any end stop. I did start looking at new fel controller but couldnt find one in australia so that initially put me off. I need to get it running reliably first. Where did you get yours from?
piper184
Platinum Member
My FEL valve came as a kit from http://ranchhandsupply.com/
Valve, mounting bracket and hoses that go to the hard lines. I had to take one hard line connection apart to see what style it was. 10 or 12 years ago it was a little over $800 with shipping.
The website is under construction and none of the information from the old site has been moved. I don't know how long this has been going on, so can't guess when it will be done. The old web site wasn't very good, but at least you could see the items listed. I've always had good service from them, just don't think they are tech savvy.
The valves themselves are available from several sources. The fun begins when you try to adapt them to the weird Jinma hydraulic fittings. Jinma seems to randomly change from one style to another. In my case it had a German metric fitting that is hard to find in the US. Although I have found a few places where I can get adapter to convert it to more common styles. I try to keep them on hand so I can just go to the nearest store or hose repair shop when needed.
Valve, mounting bracket and hoses that go to the hard lines. I had to take one hard line connection apart to see what style it was. 10 or 12 years ago it was a little over $800 with shipping.
The website is under construction and none of the information from the old site has been moved. I don't know how long this has been going on, so can't guess when it will be done. The old web site wasn't very good, but at least you could see the items listed. I've always had good service from them, just don't think they are tech savvy.
The valves themselves are available from several sources. The fun begins when you try to adapt them to the weird Jinma hydraulic fittings. Jinma seems to randomly change from one style to another. In my case it had a German metric fitting that is hard to find in the US. Although I have found a few places where I can get adapter to convert it to more common styles. I try to keep them on hand so I can just go to the nearest store or hose repair shop when needed.
Thanks. Is there any identifying markings or numbers on your valve?
Im pretty happy with the tyres at the widest settings. Have you done the same? There are four bolts on each side of the front end loader that bolt onto the black frame near the battery box. These were very loose. The bolt holes allow movent forward or back an inch or so. What is this adjustment for? Are there any FEL mounting adjustments to make or that may be important?
Im pretty happy with the tyres at the widest settings. Have you done the same? There are four bolts on each side of the front end loader that bolt onto the black frame near the battery box. These were very loose. The bolt holes allow movent forward or back an inch or so. What is this adjustment for? Are there any FEL mounting adjustments to make or that may be important?
piper184
Platinum Member
There were no markings on the valve that I remember. Maybe some casting numbers. I never did find out what brand it is.
Here is the way I mounted the wheels. I put the valve stems out for convenience and never thought about trying to make it wider. Not sure how the rear wheel weights would work if the rims were reversed. Unless lifting a load high or off center, stability has never been an issue as most of the work I do is on fairly flat ground. I have lifted a rear tire off the ground a couple of times but was working slow enough it was not an issue. Impressive that the FEL could apply that much twist to the tractor and not bend out of shape.
Here is the way I mounted the wheels. I put the valve stems out for convenience and never thought about trying to make it wider. Not sure how the rear wheel weights would work if the rims were reversed. Unless lifting a load high or off center, stability has never been an issue as most of the work I do is on fairly flat ground. I have lifted a rear tire off the ground a couple of times but was working slow enough it was not an issue. Impressive that the FEL could apply that much twist to the tractor and not bend out of shape.
Attachments
piper184
Platinum Member
It took me quite a while to figure out how this all went together. There were no pictures or instructions.
The 4 bolts in the slots have a tendency to come loose from time to time. The slots are too big for the size bolts and washers they use. Plus the lock washers are not very good. Someday when they make me mad enough, I will replace them or redesign the way the parts bolt together.
That said, the loader is fairly easy to remove when you need to work on the tractor or just get it out of the way.
The 4 bolts in the slots have a tendency to come loose from time to time. The slots are too big for the size bolts and washers they use. Plus the lock washers are not very good. Someday when they make me mad enough, I will replace them or redesign the way the parts bolt together.
That said, the loader is fairly easy to remove when you need to work on the tractor or just get it out of the way.
Attachments
I dont have a pic but i have the valve on the outside and the weight on the inside and also flipped the centre hub so its the widest it can be. I used this as a guide. Except when i did the 5th setting i found tyre rotation was the wrong way so I didnt need to alternate left and right. Maybe i had too many beers. Those tyres are heavy. Rear Wheel Width Positions | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS
piper184
Platinum Member
That is interesting. I knew there were width options but hadn't considered all of them. Mine came out of the crate in position 2 from the chart. with that setup I am still narrower than the 3 point snow blower, so probably won't be going wider unless something changes in the way I use the tractor. The FEL bucket won't cover the rear tracks but that will change as soon as I weld up a new bucket. Been on my bucket list for years... (rim shot, ba-dum!)
I saved the chart for future reference. Thanks.
I saved the chart for future reference. Thanks.
Are you planning to add to the existing bucket or do a new one? My bucket has reinforcing steel along the top which was designed to hook up a couple of very heavy duty fork tines that are too heavy for the lifting capacity. The advantage of this top bar is that it can can take a lot more punishment when pushing over small trees etc. When i use the bottom lip of the bucket in comparison i can pretty much see it bending against a similar force. Would love a grapple but i dont think ill ever get one. What i need is something on the bucket that can be used to push branches into burn piles. Kinda like a cow catcher on a train. The bucket is too small for this. It either rides over the branches on the ground or slips under branches causing the branches to ride up over and on to ghe tractor which means stopping and reversing and removing them.
piper184
Platinum Member
Sounds like you need a root grapple or perhaps a skeleton rock bucket. Take a look at all the stuff here https://www.palletforks.com/ for ideas.
My OEM bucket is 48" and is about right for dirt or gravel. It won't quite cover the front tires which are 50" wide. A full load of wet soil or gravel makes the loader grunt. I used to have bolt on pallet forks but they were a pain to use and moved the load forward 24", which severely limited the capacity.
A couple of years ago I unbolted the bucket and cut the mounting brackets off. Then welded on a skid steer universal mounting plate. Got a set of mounts for the tractor side and welded the old brackets onto the mounts so they would fit the plate on the bucket. I also bought a couple of extra plates with the intention of making a bucket, a push blade and a setup for pallet forks. Before I got that done I found a good deal on a set of forks that were made for the universal skid steer mounts. A very good investment as last summer I had a big project that required frequent changes from bucket to forks and back. A real labor saver.
Two issues with the fork setup. They are heavy and reduce the lift capacity by about 300#, but it is closer to the frame so you gain some of that back. Second, they were not made exactly right and they won't roll back enough to be level when on the ground. The tips dig in. I went with the 48" forks as I typically am picking up pallets of that size. I'm sure I can re-work the mounts on the frame and get more roll back. Another to do item....
I still plan on welding up a snow bucket. Extra capacity height with air/sight holes in the back. Probably 60 to 65 inches wide. A v-plow would be nice to have too, probably about the same width. My weld shop is unheated so I spend most of the cold weather time in the machine shop. Big welding jobs get put off for warmer weather, when there is time.
My OEM bucket is 48" and is about right for dirt or gravel. It won't quite cover the front tires which are 50" wide. A full load of wet soil or gravel makes the loader grunt. I used to have bolt on pallet forks but they were a pain to use and moved the load forward 24", which severely limited the capacity.
A couple of years ago I unbolted the bucket and cut the mounting brackets off. Then welded on a skid steer universal mounting plate. Got a set of mounts for the tractor side and welded the old brackets onto the mounts so they would fit the plate on the bucket. I also bought a couple of extra plates with the intention of making a bucket, a push blade and a setup for pallet forks. Before I got that done I found a good deal on a set of forks that were made for the universal skid steer mounts. A very good investment as last summer I had a big project that required frequent changes from bucket to forks and back. A real labor saver.
Two issues with the fork setup. They are heavy and reduce the lift capacity by about 300#, but it is closer to the frame so you gain some of that back. Second, they were not made exactly right and they won't roll back enough to be level when on the ground. The tips dig in. I went with the 48" forks as I typically am picking up pallets of that size. I'm sure I can re-work the mounts on the frame and get more roll back. Another to do item....
I still plan on welding up a snow bucket. Extra capacity height with air/sight holes in the back. Probably 60 to 65 inches wide. A v-plow would be nice to have too, probably about the same width. My weld shop is unheated so I spend most of the cold weather time in the machine shop. Big welding jobs get put off for warmer weather, when there is time.
After reading a bit more about skid steer quick hitch i think my previous question was pretty dumb. I get it now that the mounting plate goes on the buckets. My initial idea is to test pilot a steel grate or heavy duty gate bolted or mounted on to the bucket somehow. Getting it strong enough would be the issue but that is where the testing comes in. A quick mount root or rock rake would be ideal of course but the stuff i want to push around will already have been pushed over or cut down. It probably wont work but i need to give it a go.
Harrygoodwrench
Gold Member
Is the starter turning the engine normally? I've had my Jinma since 2004 as a crate unit. My starter was never right. In cold weather it just didn't spin up correctly making it difficult to start even plugged in. I tried to disassemble starter but it was so corroded inside I purchased a new starter from Circle G tractor. Still using it on occasion for moving snow and dirt, etc.
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Tractor starts consistently now. I think the main issue was the poor electrical connections to the battery post but took me too long to figure it out. The starter always seem to spin strong but its a very fine line between starting and not starting.
piper184
Platinum Member
There was a time when the new Jinma starters were assembled without lube and they were problematic from the beginning. This was exacerbated by the fact that they also painted the mounting surface on the starter AND the bell housing, which gave it a poor ground at best.
In any case, cleaning and lubing a starter is just standard maintenance and needs to be done every few years anyway. More often if the tractor is stored outside. These are "old school" design starters and taking them apart for service is not all that hard. You will be surprised how much better they work with a clean commutator and contacts along with fresh lube in the bushings.
In any case, cleaning and lubing a starter is just standard maintenance and needs to be done every few years anyway. More often if the tractor is stored outside. These are "old school" design starters and taking them apart for service is not all that hard. You will be surprised how much better they work with a clean commutator and contacts along with fresh lube in the bushings.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Tommy at Affordable Tractor used to sell an updated gear reduction starter for these engines that really spun them up fast. Not sure if he still has them. His site is currently down for maintenance but you could give him a call.
Here are some similar links:
