piper184
Gold Member
I know I have the specs somewhere but can't find them. I did find them on page 16 of this document (not my posting, so it won't go on my web page)
Jimna 254 hard starting
- Thread starter Jimmy254
- Start date
Handy looking document. Jumping ahead of myself here but Adjustment of Advance angle of supply fuel is listed as one of the causes of difficult start. Haven't come across this adjustment before or even seen it mentioned on this forum. Might be something I look at checking when it is convenient.
Looks like replacing the positive terminal connector on the battery may have improved things. Last couple of starts have been immediate. Cant discern any difference in the cranking speed. Ive been heating glow plugs for 30secs which seems a bit much given the mild temps but seems to work. On another note what is the latest consensus on switching the front wheels to get a wider track. Ive done the back. On reading some posts on this forum seems to be some division about doing it. Could it cause front end issues or not likely? Id like to do it.
Finally put the jinma to some work today clearing shrubs and small growth. Goes well but would love for it to have a bash plate underneath to stop sticks and branches from flicking up and hitting the fan and alternator but also to protect from rocks. FEL jerkiness is the biggest issue. Just when i think i have it going smooth it plays up again but it is most likely a skill and practice thing.
piper184
Gold Member
A skid plate under the front end is something I have never seen. You would have to fabricate something from scratch. Brackets on the battery box, maybe where the factory weights would hang, then some more brackets from the frame farther back. If your FEL frame has the mounting brackets for a backhoe you might be able to make something that clamps on the FEL frame where the tube is pinned to the bracket on the battery box and then extend all the way back to the backhoe mounting holes. That would be a big plate and you would loose quite a lot of clearance underneath.
There was a belt guard for the alternator when it was new. It cracked at a mounting tab and I took it off for repair but never got around to it. It's never been an issue.
I did run over a large frozen windrow of ice and snow one time and put a significant bend in the tie rod. Sure messed up the toe in adjustment! It is soft steel and was easy to straighten.
For FEL jerkyness, as far as I know the only cure is to get a better quality control valve assembly. The OEM ones are not machined to the tightest tolerances and can do all kinds of strange things when trying to make small adjustments. They work but only in a rather crude manor. That was the most expensive upgrade I have done, and it was well worth it. I now have fine adjustment control over the loader cylinders with the added bonus of a "float" position which is really handy sometimes. The new valve also has the ability to have "power beyond" for additional hydraulic functions. My intent is to someday buy or make a grapple fork for the loader. Someday....
There was a belt guard for the alternator when it was new. It cracked at a mounting tab and I took it off for repair but never got around to it. It's never been an issue.
I did run over a large frozen windrow of ice and snow one time and put a significant bend in the tie rod. Sure messed up the toe in adjustment! It is soft steel and was easy to straighten.
For FEL jerkyness, as far as I know the only cure is to get a better quality control valve assembly. The OEM ones are not machined to the tightest tolerances and can do all kinds of strange things when trying to make small adjustments. They work but only in a rather crude manor. That was the most expensive upgrade I have done, and it was well worth it. I now have fine adjustment control over the loader cylinders with the added bonus of a "float" position which is really handy sometimes. The new valve also has the ability to have "power beyond" for additional hydraulic functions. My intent is to someday buy or make a grapple fork for the loader. Someday....
My alternator belt guard also had a broken tab. I left it off when changing the fanbelt. That was a mistake. Yesterday a stick bent the alternator pulley fan causing it to rub against the new belt so ill put the gaurd back on but it is obviously at risk of being damaged as is the cooling fan. Ive got a bend in the tie rod too but not too bad. My tie rod ball joints need replacing as does the steering ram boot cover. The steering seems to turn the wheels alarmingly too much to the left or right, there doesnt seem to be any end stop. I did start looking at new fel controller but couldnt find one in australia so that initially put me off. I need to get it running reliably first. Where did you get yours from?
piper184
Gold Member
My FEL valve came as a kit from http://ranchhandsupply.com/
Valve, mounting bracket and hoses that go to the hard lines. I had to take one hard line connection apart to see what style it was. 10 or 12 years ago it was a little over $800 with shipping.
The website is under construction and none of the information from the old site has been moved. I don't know how long this has been going on, so can't guess when it will be done. The old web site wasn't very good, but at least you could see the items listed. I've always had good service from them, just don't think they are tech savvy.
The valves themselves are available from several sources. The fun begins when you try to adapt them to the weird Jinma hydraulic fittings. Jinma seems to randomly change from one style to another. In my case it had a German metric fitting that is hard to find in the US. Although I have found a few places where I can get adapter to convert it to more common styles. I try to keep them on hand so I can just go to the nearest store or hose repair shop when needed.
Valve, mounting bracket and hoses that go to the hard lines. I had to take one hard line connection apart to see what style it was. 10 or 12 years ago it was a little over $800 with shipping.
The website is under construction and none of the information from the old site has been moved. I don't know how long this has been going on, so can't guess when it will be done. The old web site wasn't very good, but at least you could see the items listed. I've always had good service from them, just don't think they are tech savvy.
The valves themselves are available from several sources. The fun begins when you try to adapt them to the weird Jinma hydraulic fittings. Jinma seems to randomly change from one style to another. In my case it had a German metric fitting that is hard to find in the US. Although I have found a few places where I can get adapter to convert it to more common styles. I try to keep them on hand so I can just go to the nearest store or hose repair shop when needed.
Thanks. Is there any identifying markings or numbers on your valve?
Im pretty happy with the tyres at the widest settings. Have you done the same? There are four bolts on each side of the front end loader that bolt onto the black frame near the battery box. These were very loose. The bolt holes allow movent forward or back an inch or so. What is this adjustment for? Are there any FEL mounting adjustments to make or that may be important?
Im pretty happy with the tyres at the widest settings. Have you done the same? There are four bolts on each side of the front end loader that bolt onto the black frame near the battery box. These were very loose. The bolt holes allow movent forward or back an inch or so. What is this adjustment for? Are there any FEL mounting adjustments to make or that may be important?
piper184
Gold Member
There were no markings on the valve that I remember. Maybe some casting numbers. I never did find out what brand it is.
Here is the way I mounted the wheels. I put the valve stems out for convenience and never thought about trying to make it wider. Not sure how the rear wheel weights would work if the rims were reversed. Unless lifting a load high or off center, stability has never been an issue as most of the work I do is on fairly flat ground. I have lifted a rear tire off the ground a couple of times but was working slow enough it was not an issue. Impressive that the FEL could apply that much twist to the tractor and not bend out of shape.
Here is the way I mounted the wheels. I put the valve stems out for convenience and never thought about trying to make it wider. Not sure how the rear wheel weights would work if the rims were reversed. Unless lifting a load high or off center, stability has never been an issue as most of the work I do is on fairly flat ground. I have lifted a rear tire off the ground a couple of times but was working slow enough it was not an issue. Impressive that the FEL could apply that much twist to the tractor and not bend out of shape.
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piper184
Gold Member
It took me quite a while to figure out how this all went together. There were no pictures or instructions.
The 4 bolts in the slots have a tendency to come loose from time to time. The slots are too big for the size bolts and washers they use. Plus the lock washers are not very good. Someday when they make me mad enough, I will replace them or redesign the way the parts bolt together.
That said, the loader is fairly easy to remove when you need to work on the tractor or just get it out of the way.
The 4 bolts in the slots have a tendency to come loose from time to time. The slots are too big for the size bolts and washers they use. Plus the lock washers are not very good. Someday when they make me mad enough, I will replace them or redesign the way the parts bolt together.
That said, the loader is fairly easy to remove when you need to work on the tractor or just get it out of the way.
