Everything Attachments Wicked Grapple Build

[94BULLITT]

The part of the bottom portion of the SSQA is welded on.

That technique will make sure it fits YOUR tractor but it might not fit another tractor, loader quick attach tolerances being what they are. They should give you a dimension per the industrial standard.

Sorry I should have clarified better, they gave me the spacing for the bottom portion of the QA side to side and they gave me the dimensions for the top to bottom spacing. It made it easier to tack with it on the loader, which matched theie dimensions and the SSQA spec.

 

[J F]

Nice. :thumbsup:

 

[crazyal]

Most of the DIY bedliner coatings say they don't crack, peal or flake. If it was to wear off the tines from I'm not sure if that would be an issue. I guess in my eyes that would be like the paint wearing off of a plow edge. I'm sure powder coat will also come off in time. Some brands offer their coatings in rough or smooth finishes and plenty of colors. It looks like a kit (1 gallon) needed to do a grapple would set you back no more than $150.

 

[J F]

Looks too big for that machine.

I would have to disagree, given the chance.

 

[94BULLITT]

Nice. :thumbsup:

Thanks.

Most of the DIY bedliner coatings say they don't crack, peal or flake. If it was to wear off the tines from I'm not sure if that would be an issue. I guess in my eyes that would be like the paint wearing off of a plow edge. I'm sure powder coat will also come off in time. Some brands offer their coatings in rough or smooth finishes and plenty of colors. It looks like a kit (1 gallon) needed to do a grapple would set you back no more than $150.

I am still up in the air about if I am going to paint, powder coat or what. I may look in the truck bed coatings for some that can be top coated with paint. I found this premixed kind here that comes in orange. I want something that can be touched up easily and can buy the stuff to do it locally. I know what ever I put on it will wear off eventually. I was thinking about the truck bed coating some, that stuff may be nice to do the pallet fork frame work with:scratchchin: It would last forever.

 

[rmorey]

Thanks.



I am still up in the air about if I am going to paint, powder coat or what. I may look in the truck bed coatings for some that can be top coated with paint. I found this premixed kind here that comes in orange. I want something that can be touched up easily and can buy the stuff to do it locally. I know what ever I put on it will wear off eventually. I was thinking about the truck bed coating some, that stuff may be nice to do the pallet fork frame work with:scratchchin: It would last forever.

How does the manufacturer finish theirs? Does it last very well?

 

[PILOON]

I pour old engine oil in hollow tubes before welding them shut. Ever opened a tractor transmission that sat for a couple of years ? mostly there isnt much rust because the oil vapour prevents it. (unless the oil was already saturated with moisture)

With oil in a tube frame, welded shut, the oil will emulsify most moisture that remains inside the tubes (or penetrates over the years) and is a good rust inhibitor.

Band saw cuts are sure not enough, you must either shut it off as much as possible, or leave openings as big as possible so the wind can go through. But the latter has the disadvantage that dirt enters too, and dirt holds moisture even more..

It was a common practice to add raw linseed oil inside of older aircraft that used tubing for the fuselage structure.
I have witnessed the difference between treated and non treated sections.
Many non treated were so rusted out as to be declared scrap while 50 yr old treated were as good as new.
Typically hot raw linseed oil is poured in, swished around and drained to leave a slight film.
Floatplanes operating in salty environments really demonstrated the advantage of this process.

Typically the procedure was to drill a small hole at each end of a structure tube in order to fill and drain excess oil.
The small holes would then be plugged often with a small rosette weld.

Linseed oil when heated gets very fluid making this process possible.

 

[94BULLITT]

I made a little progress on it earlier this morning.
Supporting the loader to weld the last peice of the QA on.

The last 2 peices of the QA are tacked on.

A little bit of more welding was done to the top of the QA.

How does the manufacturer finish theirs? Does it last very well?

I believe they paint theirs.

 

[murphy1244]

I would have to disagree, given the chance.

I'm sure.:shocked:

 

[94BULLITT]

Well I called Rhino linings just for the heck of it and the guy said they could do it but he would not recommend it. He said it would peel off in the rub areas.

Right now it looks like I am going to be painting it.

 

[murphy1244]

Well I called Rhino linings just for the heck of it and the guy said they could do it but he would not recommend it. He said it would peel off in the rub areas.

Right now it looks like I am going to be painting it.

What kind of paint?

 

[94BULLITT]

What kind of paint?

At this time I have not heard anything back from the powder coaters.

 

[Scooby074]

Well I called Rhino linings just for the heck of it and the guy said they could do it but he would not recommend it. He said it would peel off in the rub areas.

Right now it looks like I am going to be painting it.

Good choice.

At a former employer, we built and repaired rock crushers and screeners. As you can imagine, the paint took a lot of impacts.

Standard prep was sandblast followed by two part epoxy paint. Epolon or Duraplate from SW (I think, it's been a while ). Sometimes 2k Urethanes were used too, also SW products.

If you'd rather Dupont, old school Imron is still available, but only industrially or for aircraft.

Edit: I see your going to use the factory enamel. That should do OK, plus be a whole lot safer and easier to apply. Cheaper too!:thumbsup:

 

[dstig1]

Bullitt - do yourself a favor and run this test. Put the grapple on the tractor. Curl it down. Press the tines into the ground in this position. Then try to curl it more. Make sure it does not pop off the SSQA on the tractor.

I do not think you will have a problem as you have a vertical tine behind your Kubota SSQA plates, but there is an issue here that I ran into with my Markham/Gator grapple that it would pop off in this situation. On my grapple there is no tine behind the SSQA plate, so when you stress it, the grapple deflects/distorts and the Kubota plate has a "curl" in the top edge that has nothing to push against so it pops out. I added heavy angle as plates to act as stops and the problem disappeared.

It is not an issue with implements that have a solid face (like your bucket in the background), but anything open like the grapple can be a huge problem.

Green arrow points to the "good" tine that should help you. Red arrow points to the problem zone. Like I said, the tine should stop it, but it is easy to fix now, painful later....

 

[SPIKER]

check with the place you got he enamel to see if they have a catalyst/hardener for it. that will really help it for scratch / chip prevention & follow directions it will also help it cure faster. JUST FOLLOW DIRECTIONS WEAR RESPIRATOR IF SPRAYING. Brushing is just fine though...

Mark

 

[94BULLITT]

Bullitt - do yourself a favor and run this test. Put the grapple on the tractor. Curl it down. Press the tines into the ground in this position. Then try to curl it more. Make sure it does not pop off the SSQA on the tractor.

I do not think you will have a problem as you have a vertical tine behind your Kubota SSQA plates, but there is an issue here that I ran into with my Markham/Gator grapple that it would pop off in this situation. On my grapple there is no tine behind the SSQA plate, so when you stress it, the grapple deflects/distorts and the Kubota plate has a "curl" in the top edge that has nothing to push against so it pops out. I added heavy angle as plates to act as stops and the problem disappeared.

It is not an issue with implements that have a solid face (like your bucket in the background), but anything open like the grapple can be a huge problem.

Green arrow points to the "good" tine that should help you. Red arrow points to the problem zone. Like I said, the tine should stop it, but it is easy to fix now, painful later....

View attachment 307888

I'll check it, I don't think it will be a problem with this design. The tines are just tacked to the pipes. They still need to be welded and the gussets added before I can check it.

Good choice.

At a former employer, we built and repaired rock crushers and screeners. As you can imagine, the paint took a lot of impacts.

Standard prep was sandblast followed by two part epoxy paint. Epolon or Duraplate from SW (I think, it's been a while ). Sometimes 2k Urethanes were used too, also SW products.

If you'd rather Dupont, old school Imron is still available, but only industrially or for aircraft.

Edit: I see your going to use the factory enamel. That should do OK, plus be a whole lot safer and easier to apply. Cheaper too!:thumbsup:

Is SW Sherwin Williams? We have a couple around here but I think they just sell paint for houses. I think Imron would be really good but I think you need a really good respirator. The Kubota paint is my first choice but I also keep thinking about the rustoleum hammered finish. It seems to be very durable. RustOleum.com

check with the place you got he enamel to see if they have a catalyst/hardener for it. that will really help it for scratch / chip prevention & follow directions it will also help it cure faster. JUST FOLLOW DIRECTIONS WEAR RESPIRATOR IF SPRAYING. Brushing is just fine though...

Mark

I got the paint at the dealer, they had to order it in. The can does not mention using a hardener it only mentions thinning it. I need to check I may have some hardener that will work if not I need to get something. I am still open to any other ideas other than painting it, I can't think of anything else.

 

[ericher69]

Don't know the price but...

http://www.electro-coatings.com/hvof-wear-resistance.php

 

[94BULLITT]

I took a bunch of pictures tonight. The QA is completed now and the lid hinges are fully welded. It does not sound like much but it was a big step.


Pics of the lower QA fully welded.

Some welds on the upper portion of the QA.

A far back view

All 4 of the the Lid hinges are fully welded now.

 

[94BULLITT]

Don't know the price but...

HVOF Coatings - Electro-Coatings

That sounds like some good stuff but I would have to ship it to Texas and back so it would be costly.

 

[Scooby074]

Is SW Sherwin Williams? We have a couple around here but I think they just sell paint for houses. I think Imron would be really good but I think you need a really good respirator. The Kubota paint is my first choice but I also keep thinking about the rustoleum hammered finish. It seems to be very durable.

Yeah SW is sherwin.

You need to find an industral SW store or try to have it ordered in. In all honesty you should be using supplied air with any of the paints on my list if spraying.We had full supplied air. If you're brushing, you could get by with a good respirator and NEW cartridge. Anything with Iso's (hardeners) in it is serious stuff. Industrial grade coatings are that much more serious again. Not to scare you, but bad things can and have happened to painters who didn't take precautions. Imron has killed people! These products are 100x more durable than the relatively soft product like Rustoleum. And can cost 10x as much or more/gal.

You can likely get some "wet look" hardener and use it with your enamel. This will toughen it considerably. Bare in mind that this product has iso in it and should be sprayed outdoors (if possible, or with ventilation) and with a new cartridge. This is the cheapest and safest option to get "tough" paint.

Hammertone is much harder than regular rustoleum. A good product that is easy to apply, and cheap too. Doesnt protect against rust as well in my experience. But again, not near as tough as the industrial stuff.