New Husqvarna 346XP Yikes

[xyz123]

Now they don't show it at all on the standard 346xp but do show 14.1k on the e-tech version.

I have owned several new 346 50cc versions and none were e-techs and they all were 14.1k Just look at your coil it says right on it.

 

[Bluegill2]

IMO, the max RPM is a pointless spec anyway. Just used to sell saws

I somewhat agree, but higher max RPM can mean higher 'in the cut' RPM. There are variables to it though.

My OE stock ones dont have the balls to pull 3/8 JMO used 325 stock. Now the ported OE's did pull 3/8 way better then 325.

The NE 346 was no comparison with a new loop of 3/8 compared to new 325. 3/8 smoked 325 on stock NE 50cc.

My OE is ported and is a little beast. But it is faster with .325. I have been around other 346 NEs' (ported and stock) that were faster with 3/8 and at least one ported one that was faster with .325. All pretty close, so I say run what ya like. I do need to try 3/8 on my NE at some point...

 

[JimR]

What did you do to port your 346?

I somewhat agree, but higher max RPM can mean higher 'in the cut' RPM. There are variables to it though.



My OE is ported and is a little beast. But it is faster with .325. I have been around other 346 NEs' (ported and stock) that were faster with 3/8 and at least one ported one that was faster with .325. All pretty close, so I say run what ya like. I do need to try 3/8 on my NE at some point...

 

[Bluegill2]

What did you do to port your 346?

I widened the intake and exhaust ports, matched the lower transfer ports to the base and opened them up some. Opened up the upper transfers also. Removed the base gasket and add a 357xp carb and intake boot. It cuts much faster than a 45cc saw should!

My newer 346 is still stock, but that might change at some point.

There are guys out there who do this kind of work professionally and better than me. They get into changing port timing and machining the cylinder to boast compression. There is a guy about an hour away from me here that is getting Very good at this. For awhile he was just trying to build a saw that'd beat my old 346, now he's building saws much faster and for guys all over the country.

 

[LD1]

I somewhat agree, but higher max RPM can mean higher 'in the cut' RPM. There are variables to it though.

Modern saws all have a max free speed above 12.5k. Not many pull more than 10k in the cut. Most are around 8-9k in the cut regardless of max-free speed. So it is MY opinion that it is just hype to sell saws because it is meaningless. A saw with a 12k max speed that can hold 9k in the cut will cut faster than a saw with a 14k free speed but only 8k in the cut. RPM is not a replacement for power. I like power, not screaming RPM for my saws.

 

[JimR]

I have a question for those of you running a 3/8 chain setup on your 346's. Are you running chisel chain or narrow kerf 3/8 chain?

 

[Bluegill2]

Modern saws all have a max free speed above 12.5k. Not many pull more than 10k in the cut. Most are around 8-9k in the cut regardless of max-free speed. So it is MY opinion that it is just hype to sell saws because it is meaningless. A saw with a 12k max speed that can hold 9k in the cut will cut faster than a saw with a 14k free speed but only 8k in the cut. RPM is not a replacement for power. I like power, not screaming RPM for my saws.

Yes, RPM in the cut is what is important and 'spec sheet' max rpm has little meaning. But if I tune one of my saws to max RPM and still get some 4 stroking, it will hold higher RPM in the cut. If tune lower max rpm, the in cut rpm will drop. My ported 346 will hold around 10.5k in the cut with moderate pressure.

 

[Bluegill2]

I have a question for those of you running a 3/8 chain setup on your 346's. Are you running chisel chain or narrow kerf 3/8 chain?

All narrow kerf is .325. No 3/8 narrow kerf.

I run semi chisel for work and full chisel for racing.

There is a 3/8 low profile, but it's less aggressive than regular .325 and I don't like it.

 

[Bluegill2]

I have a question for those of you running a 3/8 chain setup on your 346's. Are you running chisel chain or narrow kerf 3/8 chain?

You might be confusing narrow kerf with semi chisel, since all narrow kerf in semi. But semi chisel is available all sizes.

I run regular .325 semi chisel and 3/8 semi chisel most of the time.

 

[Car Doc]

This is what is on all my saws 346 included. fwtw

Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30RC Chainsaw Chain

 

[Bluegill2]

This is what is on all my saws 346 included. fwtw

Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30RC Chainsaw Chain

That's regular 3/8 full chisel. Good chain!

 

[JimR]

You might be confusing narrow kerf with semi chisel, since all narrow kerf in semi. But semi chisel is available all sizes.

I run regular .325 semi chisel and 3/8 semi chisel most of the time.

Thanks for the info. I run chisel chain on my bigger saws. I run Stihl Oilomatic .325 rapid micro .50ga yellow chain on the 346's. I find that the teeth stay sharper longer than the Husqvarna and Oregon teeth.

 

[LD1]

This is what is on all my saws 346 included. fwtw

Bailey's - WoodlandPro 30RC Chainsaw Chain

Thats what I have on my 6400/8400 right now. Its "ok" chain, but I wouldnt buy it again. I dont know if ALL the 30RC chain is this way, but mine came filed to 35 degree angles. I like 30. the 35 will cut a tad faster but dull quicker. For me, the 30 degree is the best compromise of speed and longevity. After I got the angles back to 30, it is "ok" chain. But @ $16 a pop, I'll stick with the locak stihl dealer who makes my 24" loops for $20

 

[JimR]

Thats what I have on my 6400/8400 right now. Its "ok" chain, but I wouldnt buy it again. I dont know if ALL the 30RC chain is this way, but mine came filed to 35 degree angles. I like 30. the 35 will cut a tad faster but dull quicker. For me, the 30 degree is the best compromise of speed and longevity. After I got the angles back to 30, it is "ok" chain. But @ $16 a pop, I'll stick with the locak stihl dealer who makes my 24" loops for $20

is your local Stihl dealer making your chains out of Oregon or Stihl chain?

 

[Car Doc]

Thats what I have on my 6400/8400 right now. Its "ok" chain, but I wouldnt buy it again. I dont know if ALL the 30RC chain is this way, but mine came filed to 35 degree angles. I like 30. the 35 will cut a tad faster but dull quicker. For me, the 30 degree is the best compromise of speed and longevity. After I got the angles back to 30, it is "ok" chain. But @ $16 a pop, I'll stick with the locak stihl dealer who makes my 24" loops for $20

I dont see the problem a new chain comes sharp and ready to use what difference does the initial angle mean? I have my grinder set @ 30 and whatever a chain is before grinding its darn sure 30 after.

I never have put an angle gage on a new chain to inspect what angle it is I just use them and once dull I grind them and start over. ymmv as always

oh I take that back I have a cheepo $99 northern tool chain grinder and I did take a new chain once and set my scales to it since they were staked on very badly maybe I AM off hahaha!

 

[LD1]

is your local Stihl dealer making your chains out of Oregon or Stihl chain?

stihl

 

[LD1]

I dont see the problem a new chain comes sharp and ready to use what difference does the initial angle mean? I have my grinder set @ 30 and whatever a chain is before grinding its darn sure 30 after.

I never have put an angle gage on a new chain to inspect what angle it is I just use them and once dull I grind them and start over. ymmv as always

oh I take that back I have a cheepo $99 northern toll grinder and I did take a new chain once and set my scales to it since they were staked on very badly maybe I AM off hahaha!

Two problems. First, out of the box, it dulls quicker than I'd like. Second, I hand file with a granberg. So it is really evident the fist sharpening that they ARENT 30 degrees. And when filing by hand, it takes longer to get back to 30 than if I were just touching up a dulled chain that was ALREADY 30.

After that, there is nothing wrong with the chain. But as far as my dollars and cents are concerned, I'd rather pay $4 more, get a stihl chain with the right angles, and do business with a local man. And if I ONLY need a chain and nothing else, got to factor in the shipping costs also. I got the woodland chain only because I was buying sveral things and figured it wouldnt hurt to try it out.

 

[Bluegill2]

Thanks for the info. I run chisel chain on my bigger saws. I run Stihl Oilomatic .325 rapid micro .50ga yellow chain on the 346's. I find that the teeth stay sharper longer than the Husqvarna and Oregon teeth.

Rapid Micro is semi chisel and does stay sharp longer. All semi chisel will stay sharper longer than chisel. Also doesn't get as much damage if rocked. I use a lot of RMC, it's good stuff, but so it the Oregon equivalent.

 

[Car Doc]

they ARENT 30 degrees. I got the woodland chain only because I was buying sveral things and figured it wouldnt hurt to try it out.

Having one chain that is allegedly off a bit doesn't mean they all are bad come on now.

Personally I dont remember having even one Baileys chain that didn't grind correctly at 30 but also not saying its not possible just not willing to take one instance as the standard which all woodland chains are judged. (Carlton chain btw)

You buy local and I wont buy local there is another difference so be it but read my post about my Stihl dealer sharpening chains...

30SC and 30SCS is ground @35 are you possibly mistaken or maybe it was simply boxed wrong anything is possible?

 

[LD1]

It was 3 chains. Bought it with 3 carlton premium bars (which I like), as well as a BB kit for the 6400 and one for a friends 660. So with buying that much stuff, I figured I'd give their chains a try.

I am not saying that there is anything wrong with their chain at all. What I AM saying is that the 3 I got were sharpened at a 35 degree angle. (which may be standard out their in the PNW???) but around here, 30 degrees is standard.

Sure they sharpen just fine at 30 degrees with a grinder. But with a hand file, and that first sharpening, it takes about 15 strokes as opposed to 3, and shortens the chain life by about 4 or 5 sharpenings.

Again, I am not saying ANYTHING bad about baileys. I like baileys. And I'm not even saying anything bad about the chain. It is just not what I expected and I didnt see it listed anywhere that it was 35 degree angles. And again, maybe thats normal out west with softer woods and logging green trees. Around me, everything is hard and usually dead when cutting for firewood. I like 30 degrees for that.