Wow! So much to learn.

   / Wow! So much to learn. #41  
Well it was actually $23,500 with taxes a hay spear and loaded tires but my tax rate is only 2.5%.

It handles a 5 ft bush hog great even through grass and weeds over 4 ft tall. I use a John Deere MX5 bush hog which is a heavy unit at around 900 lbs.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#42  
I think your dealer is doing you right in steering you towards the 4035 or 5010. You will greatly benefit from the extra size and power.

Speaking of baling, I wouldn't attempt to run any sort of a baler behind the 3616, the 4035 would be able to run a small square, but the 5010 could definitely run a small square and possibly a round baler.

If I were you I'd still be looking at the 4035. I wouldn't be afraid of TYM, but the Mistubishi is definitely higher quality.

How much is a 5035? What type of transmission are you looking at?

Had another chat with him and it appears he's doing something not unsimilar to me in that he farms his 220 acres east of me on the weekends. He's familiar with the hills I have to work on as his property is the same (actually worse -- his joke was the only level thing on his land was his coffee).

The gear type transmission on the 5010 doesn't sound bad to me after the conversation we had. He said that while the 50hp tractor has plenty of power to run an HST type tranny it isn't the way to go if running a baler (something I may want to do some day)...he said the baler beats them to peaces.

Bottom line appears to be that the 5010 has both the size and power I'd probably want in the future, the 4035 has the size but less power and would be ok in a shuttle shift in the future and the 3616 may not suffice.

His philosophy is that he'd rather I bought what I needed and not something I had to replace in 5 years because it couldn't handle the job.

Is he right? I don't know but he sounded pretty convincing at this point. he's also told me that I can get the longer financing deal and that the 5010 comes with the cash discount when financing so $19,999.99 with loader at 4.25% out to as much as 84 months -- add a down-payment and some implements and the price is doable for me.

And if the TYM/Mahindra is still a good rig then perhaps the big honking monster of a tractor (when compared to a 3616 anyway) is not such a bad idea ;)
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#43  
[video]http://s998.photobucket.com/albums/af102/emcvay/?action=view&current=Jeepin.mp4[/video]
Would you take your tractor down this??

I think this is one of the steepest grades on my property and my Jeep is in 4low
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Well it was actually $23,500 with taxes a hay spear and loaded tires but my tax rate is only 2.5%.

It handles a 5 ft bush hog great even through grass and weeds over 4 ft tall. I use a John Deere MX5 bush hog which is a heavy unit at around 900 lbs.

Good to know....I'm fighting back and forth on this but starting to lean to the bigger heavier rig because of a few factors:

1. Weekend use -- this tractor will be used primarily on weekends (more then likely all day Saturday) and it would be nice to get as much done in that one day as possible - and for what my money can buy.
2. Sloping land -- need the most stability possible so wider, heavier might be better.
3. Must be able to skid logs -- I think the 3616 will do that fine actually.
4. Need to run a good sized brush hog
5. Need to turn ~5acres into meadow by removing small trees, stumps, slash piles, rocks etc (3616 should be that really -- at least I think so).

6. May (that is MAY) want to run baler and other similar implements in the future (here is where the big tractor makes a difference).
7. Treacherous road needs to be worked over and kept safe to drive -- big heavy tractor is probably best here.

That's just my thoughts right now anyway.

Mahindra 3616 = $18,600 for shuttle shift
Mahindra 4035 = $21,000 for Shuttle Shift
Mahindra 5010 = $20,000 for gear shift

Seems for the price the 5010 is likely the best option and at 10% down I'm financing $19,584 (approx after tax amount) which would run me $270/mo for 84 months and cost me $3100 in interest if I let the loan play out (we always try to avoid that and try to pay off early on all our bills).

That's really not bad but doesn't include any implements which would crank up that price fast but I think I can probably get by with a mower and box blade and rent anything else....and maybe I can get some good used ones.

I can afford a little more for the implements but want to keep my costs and monthly outlay as low as possible......

And then I'll have to get a diesel tank set up for refueling too...and build a pole barn....and....lol what am I getting myself into????
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #45  
I would drive up or down that hill but not sideways!!

If a baler is something you might run then the 3616 isn't big enough. For me to buy a tractor big enough to pull a baler up and down my land it would be cheaper to just buy the hay lol. With the price of hay around here there is no money savings in baling your own hay.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#46  
I would drive up or down that hill but not sideways!!

If a baler is something you might run then the 3616 isn't big enough. For me to buy a tractor big enough to pull a baler up and down my land it would be cheaper to just buy the hay lol. With the price of hay around here there is no money savings in baling your own hay.

Excellent point -- buying the baler would take years to pay off, even used, in terms of the amount of hay baled.

On the other hand the tractor is not much difference in price....
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#47  
The wife has agreed to go look at Mahindra's tomorrow :) She's the financial boss so I have to have her approval and though she agreed to buy one it just helps to have her actually see them too.

Needless to say I'm excited.

As a side note, I have Direct to Wife Deposit :) I've learned that she's better at keeping me from spending my earnings then I am ;)
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #48  
You have a good dealer. You want to future proof yourself. When I bought my 5410, I planned on baling about 60 acres (mostly neighbors and friends) moved down to just my property and now don't do it at all. Some might do just the opposite and have to upgrade multiple times costing them thousands more than just getting the right machine the first time.

Be sure to test the difference in the shuttle vs gear shift. Gear you have to be at a complete stop, shuttle you can shift-on-the-go.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#49  
I'm starting to think that too ;)
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#50  
$24,500 for the 5010 4x4 with loader and canopy, 6' mower and 6' box blade.

I test drove the 5010 and understand now the difference between 3616 and the 5010.....ah hahahaa the 3616 looks like a toy in comparison!!! I hadn't realized AT ALL what the difference was until seeing them side by side.

Also the 5010 comes with remote, has tons more room and is clearly much beefier/bigger etc....just simply a different class of tractor all together.

The salesman (Buck in Benton City) was very nice and showed me a ton of things while discussing my needs, land, road, ice etc etc etc. Seemed like a very knowledgeable guy as well as a good guy. I have no doubt that he means what he says (specially the part about wanting to make sure you get the right tractor so he doesn't have to advertise because you'll do it for him ;) ).

Pretty sure we'll buy the 5010 from him, now just have to work out the final details (read pry the $$$ out of the wifes fingers *chuckle*)....actually, the Mrs. said I could get one this summer just the other day...but she's having trouble excepting that there really isn't any difference between now and August in terms of $$$.

But then some people don't know this statement "if you sit on the fence the only thing you'll be sure to get is slivers in your butt".

Cheers
Erik
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #51  
Well if you have the commitment, the battle is already over:) Glad to see you stepped up to the 5010, you'll be much better off with it than the 3616. Sounds like you have a really good dealer your dealing with as well, always nice to see should there be any warrantee work.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #52  
Great post, I agree you've made the right decision for your use.

One thing I would add, although you don't have a BH I'd suggest having the road ditched on the hillward side of that stretch of driveway you say ices up mostly from run-off and making sure there is a good crown in the road. By the photos it looks like a significant grade on the opposite side of the road and it doesn't take much to start down a slippery slope while removing snow.

Not trying to scare you but it would be one of the first things I'd suggest you get done if you plan to continue to work your property over the winter months.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Great post, I agree you've made the right decision for your use.

One thing I would add, although you don't have a BH I'd suggest having the road ditched on the hillward side of that stretch of driveway you say ices up mostly from run-off and making sure there is a good crown in the road. By the photos it looks like a significant grade on the opposite side of the road and it doesn't take much to start down a slippery slope while removing snow.

Not trying to scare you but it would be one of the first things I'd suggest you get done if you plan to continue to work your property over the winter months.

What is a BH?

I was watching a video on everythingattachments on using a box blade and it looks like it wouldn't be hard to add a small runoff ditch on the hill side of the driveway. My plan is to grade it up, dig in a runoff ditch, get chains and then use the box blade to rip the ice out if it starts to build up in the winter ;)
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#54  
My jeep (The Road Warrior) has passed the 251,000 mile mark and I think needs to retire. My latest engine codes suggest it needs some O2 sensors and a new catalytic converter; not a big deal but I'm just getting ready to replace the radiator and heat shroud and put the skid plate back on. I had the T case replaced a few months back as well as the breaks done and a few other items......

So I told the wife I think it's time to stop using it as a skidder at the cabin and she said "hmmm.....you know you're going to have to get that tractor sooner then later right"?

Yes dear I know that, so stop holding me back! lmao

Ahhh women! I love my wife and without her keeping the finances straight I wouldn't be buying a tractor at all (I'm sure) so I can't complain but sometimes I never get the logic....

Anyway, 'nuff said. Looks like I better get planning.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #55  
BH= Back Hoe

James K0UA
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#56  
BH= Back Hoe

James K0UA

DOH!

Hadn't thought of that. I'm assuming though that I can do a small ditch with the box blade (as in the video) though arguably that might be tough because of all the rock...guess we'll see!
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #57  
View attachment 269861
Last one -- notice the ICE -- it can get 6+ inches deep on this road. Mostly from the snow melt both on the drive itself but also the trees.

Wow. I don't think you're going to fix this lack of high-side drainage with just a CUT and box blade. Given how many rocks you've got, you'll probably need a backhoe or excavator. Sorry.
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#58  
One thing I've considered is adding gravel/dirt on top of that part of the road until I'd built it up enough to put a shallow ditch on the high side.

Thoughts?

I'm also thinking I need to get a rock rake to both clear rocks (we have a lot of them perhaps because it's all glacial drift) and to clean up the wood debris from years of the forest being left to itself. Much of it is rotten or partially so but I'm sure a lot of it, hidden in the grass, would be hard on a mower?

I'm wondering if I wouldn't have to rake the acreage before mowing it?
 
   / Wow! So much to learn.
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Hi All,

If there is one thing I've learned in the last 6-12 months is that I have much to learn!

I've been kicking tires a little and planning my first tractor purchase. I'm not in a huge hurry (thanks to a tight budget and poor economy and my desire not to use credit, or to limit its use) but expect to buy soon (3 months maybe).

After much investigating we decided to use credit (saves what cash we have / keeps savings in tact) and buy new instead of buying used -- funny how you can completely change your thinking over time.


We've got 20 acres of mostly pine forest with a little bit of natural pasture (maybe as much as 5 acres but I've never measured and guess more like 2 or 3) and are in the process of building a cabin and orchard.

Since the land is in the hills (and more or less a hill) I have some grades between benches to deal with as well as 2+ feet of snow in the winter. We don't live on the land but would like to make sure we have access year round so we'll have to plow/blow snow during the few months of snow in the winter.

I also plan to clean up the access road and work on some roads on the property as well as clear brush, mow, move slash piles to safe areas for burning, clear rocks, mow brush, bushes, saplings to increase meadow area and disk/plow/till the acreage that we have that's meadow so we can start growing some cover crops (to fix the soil for other crops or perhaps just to attract game).

At some point we'll likely put a few cows on the property to eat and sell annually but I have a fence to build first among other things.

I also have a small sawmill (Woodmizer LT10) and would like a tractor that I can use to pull logs to the mill as well as load them.

My father who lived on a farm when he was a boy (born and raised actually) tells me that 30hp is about all I should need. His dad had a Farmall A that was about 15hp so perhaps he's right...or not. Anyway, I'm thinking 30-35hp and 4wd but all of that is just from tire kicking, talking to salesmen and gleaning info off others on the net.

I've settled on a 50hp tractor for various reasons (many of which came from all of you -- thanks) -- one of which is that I found one that isn't much different in price then a 36hp model compact -- I found a Mahindra 5010 for $20k with loader at a dealer near me as many of you now know.

I've love to hear your thoughts on what I probably could use/need would be nice to have etc as well as on brands particularly these: Manhindra, Massey, Branson, New Holland, John Deere, Kubota and Case.
Thanks for all the input -- I've learned that finding a good dealer near by may be as important as a tractor with a good name if not more! The Mahindra dealer is 15 minutes from my house and while he's 4 hours from my property, so is just about everyone else! lol

Dollar wise I was originally looking at buying used in the $3500-$5000 range but have since moved into the New/Used $10,000-$20,000 range because of financing options offered lately and my desire to get the best tractor I can get for the money without limiting myself to 2WD tractors that are 40 years old ;)
OK that's out the window! lol -- I'm not looking at $24-$25k after taxes and implements but I think it's the best way to go today.

My latest interest is a New Holland 1510 w/loader that is being offered at $15,375 new. It's tempting but I want to be certain that it's the right approach before I go out and commit to that much cash/credit!

Thanks in advance for your time and knowledge.
Erik

After looking at the difference between a compact (like the 1510 or the Mahindra 3616) I came to realize that I wanted/needed a full sized utility tractor for the work I have to do. SO that's out the window.

Thanks again for all of the input, we've decided what we want/need now and are in the process of arranging to pay for it now ;)

Wish us luck!!!
Thanks
Erik
 
   / Wow! So much to learn. #60  
Sounds like you've already made up your mind, but before you sign any paperwork it'd be worth your while to check out both the Kubota Mx4700 and Deere 5045e. Both are 4wd, gear drive/shuttle shift and around 40hp at the PTO (enough for most small time haying operations). If you drive a hard bargain you could get either new for about $23-24K with a loader. I don't know much about the other brands you've been looking at but I do know that both the Deere and Kubota are high quality machines with a good dealer/parts network and excellent resale value.
 

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