Best Hydraulic Top Link???

[MtnViewRanch]

Curious as why some of you guys like the 3rd function so much? Do you really feel that you need be doing 2 or 3 functions all at the same time? In 7 years of use I have not needed to curl and close my grapple at exactly the same time. How do you guys that have the 3rd function control the flow? Hit the button on-off-on-off a bunch of times? I have sold a few restrictor fittings to guys with the 3rd function valves, but then you only have one speed of operation, although at least it is manageable. :thumbsup:

Just curious.

 

[pclausen]

Yes, if you want short hoses, that is what you will get. You need to have the hoses have a loop in them. Can you do that with the shorter hoses? The top link comes with 90* fittings, those fittings really should be pointing backwards towards the implement.

Here's how another member has hit top link configured with 24" and 30" hoses (exact same tractor I'm getting):

Looks like plenty of slack to me.

Green is no problem, but will be an additional cost of what the JD dealer gets for their paint.

Ok, sounds great. Can you get me a total price, including the in-line restrictor?

 

[horse7]

I have a CCM TnT... with no restrictors. Now I learn about restrictors, the remotes are way way too sensitive on the TnT setup I have now. I was thinking all those with TnT and box blades must have Dog like skills to effectively use a box to flat the ground or crown a road, now I know better!

 

[greg_g]

Hyperlink you provided to PCLAUSON is corrupt Brian, here's a correction: click here

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Curious as why some of you guys like the 3rd function so much?

Wish I had it too. Grapple buckets and 4-in-1 buckets are likely plumbed pretty much the same. But cuz JD outfitted my 3720 with a pair of diverters, I have to hit an electric switch everytime I want to use the clamshell. With that switch in position 1, the flow is diverted forward to lift/curl. But since the clamshell cylinders are plugged into a pair in the rear, I have to hit the electric switch to send flow to the rear for the clamshell. PITA. The other rear pair is usually dedicated to the HTL, that's not such a big deal. But when I'm doing loader work, using an electric switch to "turn on" the clamshell sucks.

//greg//

 

[pclausen]

Curious as why some of you guys like the 3rd function so much? Do you really feel that you need be doing 2 or 3 functions all at the same time? In 7 years of use I have not needed to curl and close my grapple at exactly the same time. How do you guys that have the 3rd function control the flow? Hit the button on-off-on-off a bunch of times? I have sold a few restrictor fittings to guys with the 3rd function valves, but then you only have one speed of operation, although at least it is manageable. :thumbsup:

I had it on my previous tractor and will have it on this new one. I found that having the 3rd function right there on the loader joystick was very convenient when using a grapple. It just seemed very intuitive and I would think having to remove your right hand to toggle a switch all the time would get old after a while.

 

[pclausen]

Hyperlink you provided to PCLAUSON is corrupt Brian, here's a correction: click here

Thanks Greg!

That does look like a decent kit, but if I went that route, I think I would do it a little bit different (like get a JD momentary 2 way toggle switch to fit one of the existing blanks in the cab), and likely plumb it into the PB circuit and use the toggle switch to control the HTL directly.

 

[BlacknTan]

I've got the CCM with a restrictor fitting. Don't know if it's the best ot not.. I'm sure they're all pretty good. The restrictor allows me to feather the movement perfectly.

 

[Zebrafive]

Curious as why some of you guys like the 3rd function so much? Do you really feel that you need be doing 2 or 3 functions all at the same time? In 7 years of use I have not needed to curl and close my grapple at exactly the same time. How do you guys that have the 3rd function control the flow? Hit the button on-off-on-off a bunch of times? I have sold a few restrictor fittings to guys with the 3rd function valves, but then you only have one speed of operation, although at least it is manageable. :thumbsup:

Just curious.

I constantly use 2 functions on the loader with the joystick on my 2030. I connected my grapple to a rear SCV and have to use that lever for it.

I need to make different mounts for the grapple to be able to use it on the 6415. Since I can't mount the grapple on the 6415 yet I can't comment on how well the third function button on the joystick will work for it. Opening it should not be a problem, all I want it to do is dump. I don't feather it when using the 2030, I just push the lever to detent and when the tines are closed the lever jumps back to center position. Picking up brush and logs is not precision work.

I plan to try the joystick third function when I get hydraulic toplink. I will be using 1/4" hoses. If that's not precise enough, I'll add restrictors. If that fails I'll move the hoses over to a rear remote that has flow control built in.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hyperlink you provided to PCLAUSON is corrupt Brian, here's a correction: click here

//greg//

Thank you.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I had it on my previous tractor and will have it on this new one. I found that having the 3rd function right there on the loader joystick was very convenient when using a grapple. It just seemed very intuitive and I would think having to remove your right hand to toggle a switch all the time would get old after a while.

I agree 100% with having the control switch on the loader lever, that is what I have. the switch is built into the knob. That's not what I'm asking, I'm asking why the 3rd function valve vs a diverter valve?

 

[JD 4520]

I agree 100% with having the control switch on the loader lever, that is what I have. the switch is built into the knob. That's not what I'm asking, I'm asking why the 3rd function valve vs a diverter valve?

What hydraulic set up is needed to operate both a top link and vertical link? I am thinking these operate completely separate and one needs a 3rd and 4th SCV. Is that correct or not?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

What hydraulic set up is needed to operate both a top link and vertical link? I am thinking these operate completely separate and one needs a 3rd and 4th SCV. Is that correct or not?

Typically a person has 2 separate rear remotes to operate a Top and Tilt setup. Some people will use a diverter valve connected to their single rear remote to get an additional set of outlets. I personally am going to run a bank of 3 diverter valves connected to my single OEM rear remote to get a total of 4 pair of outlets on my 32HP tractor. I just need the time to do it.

 

[gumshu]

Which ever unit you buy, be sure that you have the right clearance needed at the tractor end of the link. Some tractors need a little more clearance than others for the cylinder to clear in all 3 pin locations. If you buy from me, your cost for a 3" dia cyl with a 1 1/2" dia rod is $225 + $50 for hose and restrictor kit. Look around and buy the one that you feel best about.

Impressive unit!

 

[JD 4520]

Typically a person has 2 separate rear remotes to operate a Top and Tilt setup. Some people will use a diverter valve connected to their single rear remote to get an additional set of outlets. I personally am going to run a bank of 3 diverter valves connected to my single OEM rear remote to get a total of 4 pair of outlets on my 32HP tractor. I just need the time to do it.

Expand on how one might go about expanding the 3rd Function remote to multiple remotes as you suggest you plan to do so. Okay, I might visualize how the plumbing may be (I said I might) but how would the additional remotes be controlled? Do I need to purchase a 4th & 5th remote add on from the dealer?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Expand on how one might go about expanding the 3rd Function remote to multiple remotes as you suggest you plan to do so. Okay, I might visualize how the plumbing may be (I said I might) but how would the additional remotes be controlled? Do I need to purchase a 4th & 5th remote add on from the dealer?

I wish that I had this completed so that I would have some pictures of it. :ashamed:

Anyway, it's pretty easy, you mount the diverter valve where ever it is that you want it, run two hoses from your current rear remote over to the diverter valve.

You can either have the QDs mounted on the diverter valve itself or run 4 hoses to a prefered location and have the QDs mounted there.

Run the diverter control switch to the handle of the single rear remote that you currently have. Now you have control of 2 rear remotes with only a single rear remote valve.

 

[danceswithdirt]

Got my TnT from Fit Rite and love it. Install was just 30 min. Had 3rd installed from dealer and it works great with grapple

 

[jenkinsph]

Gary,
You can use the add on diverter with the third remote as Brian mentions or have the more expensive 4th and 5th remotes added to your tractor. I use the 3rd remote to control the scarifiers and have the joystick plumbed to the rear to operate the topntilt kit. I do not have the fel on my 4520 as I use the 110 for that purpose. At any rate using the joystick to control the topntilt works great and is intuitive to use. If I had one tractor with a fel I would want the diverter with 4th and 5th rear remotes. My 110 has the triple diverter with three front and three rear remotes, wish Deere offered that for the 4520, I would have sprung for that.

 

[JD 4520]

Deleted

 

[oscar169]

Need a Top kit for LS 7010 what length cylinder and how long hose you guys recommend ?