Best Hydraulic Top Link???

[ThrowinDirt]

Looking into buying a Hydraulic top link in the next few days. Which ones do you all thing are the best? Do I have to get one with check valves or not??? Thanks for the replies in advance.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Which ever unit you buy, be sure that you have the right clearance needed at the tractor end of the link. Some tractors need a little more clearance than others for the cylinder to clear in all 3 pin locations. If you buy from me, your cost for a 3" dia cyl with a 1 1/2" dia rod is $225 + $50 for hose and restrictor kit. Look around and buy the one that you feel best about.

 

[teg]

I have one with a check valve... not really sure why. Ok, I know it's for safety... but I don't think I *need* it.

 

[greg_g]

Only reason you'd need check valves is if your tractor has a leaky hydraulic control valve. Otherwise a new cylinder shouldn't leak down for years. I got mine from a member here, and am quite satisfied with product and price. Specify your needs to MtnViewRanch.

//greg//

 

[Gordon Gould]

I got mine from FitRiteHydraulics.com
Excellent quality and knowledgeable friendly service.

I don't have check valves on mine and don't feel the need for them.
There seem to be a lot of opinions on them but never having used them I can't say which I like better. I have heard that they make it harder to feather an adjustment because you have to overcome the pilot pressure before the cylinder moves but I am not sure if this is true in all cases. Some people use flow limiters to help with feathering if their valve does not have good control at low flows or if they have check valves.

 

[shortthrow50]

I too went with a hydraulic top link kit from brian at fit rite hydraulics. I bought the whole kit. I did so becuase the members on this site tell me that this is the only kit that will leave you satisfied. I have not yet received it yet but I believe it will be in next week. Very excited about this new addition and will post up some pics and video when i install it

 

[mfreund]

I bought a swivel ended cylinder from Surplus Center. It is about 1/2 of what actual hydraulic link cylinders go for. The down fall (my fault not theirs) the end that hooked to the tractor was too close and broke the hydraulic fitting on the top. I cut the swivel off and welded a new longer top link swivel on and have had no other problems. I did nothing other than run the cylinder out and then welded it. No disassembly. It will last much longer than me. My neighbor has borrowed the box blade and link and complimated me on how well it works. He worked for a seeding contractor all through college

 

[pclausen]

Hey Brian,

I'm interested in a top link for my John Deere 5085M which after a 4 month wait, should finally be here next week. :thumbsup:

I'm not sure which of the following 3" cylinders would be the best fit for me:

10" stroke 20" - 30"
12" stroke 22" - 34"

I' prefer the 12" stroke, but I want to make sure I can lift all my implements properly.

Also, I only have 3 rear remotes, which will all be in use when I have my all hydraulic blade on the back (angle, tilt, offset), so once I set the proper top link length, I would want to be able to pop those hoses out and inset the ones for the blade.

I'd like to be able to pop the hoses with the implement raised, which would mean using something like these, right?

Push to Connect - Connect Under Pressure Hydraulic Couplers

Any suggestions?

 

[murphy1244]

Looking into buying a Hydraulic top link in the next few days. Which ones do you all thing are the best? Do I have to get one with check valves or not??? Thanks for the replies in advance.

You want a retricter not a check valve. To slow the cylinder speed. Brian is a good vender.

 

[Mudfarmer]

I'd like to be able to pop the hoses with the implement raised, which would mean using something like these, right?



I do that all the time with the one hydraulic outlet I have on the back of my Deere. Set the top link where I want it. Shut off the engine, unhook the quick connectors and hook them up to the log splitter. Hook the toplink hose to each other. No check valves, no drift, can still raise and lower the splitter with the lift arms. Do the reverse when I take the splitter off.
Mf

 

[greg_g]

I'm not sure which of the following 3" cylinders would be the best fit for me:

What I did was back the tractor up to every single one of my TPH implements one at a time. I wrote down three measurements for each implement; length required to connect to tractor, length required when transporting, length required when working. When I finished my list, the shortest length recorded and longest length recorded pretty much dictated what size I wanted Brian to build for me.

//greg//

 

[Gordon Gould]

What I did was back the tractor up to every single one of my TPH implements one at a time. I wrote down three measurements for each implement; length required to connect to tractor, length required when transporting, length required when working. When I finished my list, the shortest length recorded and longest length recorded pretty much dictated what size I wanted Brian to build for me.

//greg//

That is what I did too. I was surprised how compact my length requirements were with my set of impliments. I could have used a 10" or 12" cylinder. I went with the shorter one for three reasons; 1) because my avg length was close to the center of its travel. 2) I thought higher impliment roll back would be more useful than more droop. ie easier to pull dirt from the top of a pile with a blade or be able to back closer to a bank. 3) It would be easier to modify the impiment top link connection point if the TL was to short than if the TL was to long.

I may have missed something there but those were the things I considered. So far I have had no problems.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Hey Brian,

I'm interested in a top link for my John Deere 5085M which after a 4 month wait, should finally be here next week. :thumbsup:

I'm not sure which of the following 3" cylinders would be the best fit for me:

10" stroke 20" - 30"
12" stroke 22" - 34"

I' prefer the 12" stroke, but I want to make sure I can lift all my implements properly.

Also, I only have 3 rear remotes, which will all be in use when I have my all hydraulic blade on the back (angle, tilt, offset), so once I set the proper top link length, I would want to be able to pop those hoses out and inset the ones for the blade.

I'd like to be able to pop the hoses with the implement raised, which would mean using something like these, right?

Push to Connect - Connect Under Pressure Hydraulic Couplers

Any suggestions?

I believe that you will be happier with the 20"-30" top link which for your JD is actually about 20 1/2"- 30 1/2".

Why disconnect the hoses with the implement in the air? :confused3: Why not get the blade set and then let it down so that the blade is on the ground and disconnect? Better yet, get a diverter valve from me for a mere $335 and don't disconnect at all. :thumbsup:

Another suggestion (you asked) forget the tilt hydraulic on the blade and get a tilt hydraulic for the 3pt hitch. That way you can tilt all of your implements.

 

[sodamo]

Which ever unit you buy, be sure that you have the right clearance needed at the tractor end of the link. Some tractors need a little more clearance than others for the cylinder to clear in all 3 pin locations. If you buy from me, your cost for a 3" dia cyl with a 1 1/2" dia rod is $225 + $50 for hose and restrictor kit. Look around and buy the one that you feel best about.

Bought mine from you - very happy customer

David

 

[pclausen]

Appreciate all the tips and suggestions!

It sounds like the consensus is that the shorter 10" stroke cylinder would be the best fit, which makes sense since, based on previous tractors I have used, I often wished I could raise the implement just a little bit more.

Yeah, I suppose there is no reason why I could not just drop the implement back to the ground to switch the hoses. Brian, would that be an electronic diverter valve for $335? I'd want to be able to control everything from within the cab.

On hoses, instead of a pair of 36", could you do a 24" and a 30"?

Oh, and there would not be any interference issues on the tractor end with being able to use any of the 3 holes for the pin, right? And the pin size would be 1" on both ends, correct?

Last question, could you paint it John Deere green for me? Just the cylinder, not the hoses.

 

[dex3361]

I got the Top and Tilt cylinders with my Kubota when I bought it. after damaging the Top cylinder I contacted Brian at FitRite Hydraulics and he is great to work with. Highly recommend his cylinder seems HD and had everything I needed to install right the first time. :thumbsup:

 

[couchsachraga]

On my last tractor I had the CCM top and side link set up - worth every penny. I went through several different top links - the first CCM one was too long (and shorter one was back ordered for a looong time), second and third didn't have check valves and actually "bounced" sometimes with heavy implements. Not a big deal with a brush hog, but when I have something set for a back blade or box blade I really don't want it to move.... Finally I went back to CCM when they had the correct size in stock. Worth every penny to have the right cylinder.

Also worth every penny to have the joystick and side link as well if you are doing dirt work.

New tractor (Deere) will have factory top and tilt. I hope it's as nice as the CCM setup.

 

[Zebrafive]

Hey Brian,

I'm interested in a top link for my John Deere 5085M which after a 4 month wait, should finally be here next week. :thumbsup:

I'm not sure which of the following 3" cylinders would be the best fit for me:

10" stroke 20" - 30"
12" stroke 22" - 34"

I' prefer the 12" stroke, but I want to make sure I can lift all my implements properly.

Also, I only have 3 rear remotes, which will all be in use when I have my all hydraulic blade on the back (angle, tilt, offset), so once I set the proper top link length, I would want to be able to pop those hoses out and inset the ones for the blade.

I'd like to be able to pop the hoses with the implement raised, which would mean using something like these, right?

Push to Connect - Connect Under Pressure Hydraulic Couplers

Any suggestions?

Do you have a third function on your loader? If so, you could tee into their lines and run to the back and put a set of couplers. As long as you do not have something connected at the loader side you could use the third function at the rear.
The only thing I am not sure of, is how well you could control a top link with the electric valve used for third funtion on loaders.

This is one of my projects in the planning stage for the 6415. I want to put ball valves right before the rear quick couplers. Just shut them off if I want to use the grapple and leave the toplink connected.

 

[pclausen]

Hey, that's a great idea zebra! Will definitely have to look into that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Appreciate all the tips and suggestions!

It sounds like the consensus is that the shorter 10" stroke cylinder would be the best fit, which makes sense since, based on previous tractors I have used, I often wished I could raise the implement just a little bit more.

Yeah, I suppose there is no reason why I could not just drop the implement back to the ground to switch the hoses. Brian, would that be an electronic diverter valve for $335? I'd want to be able to control everything from within the cab.

On hoses, instead of a pair of 36", could you do a 24" and a 30"?

Oh, and there would not be any interference issues on the tractor end with being able to use any of the 3 holes for the pin, right? And the pin size would be 1" on both ends, correct?

Last question, could you paint it John Deere green for me? Just the cylinder, not the hoses.

This is the valve, I just sell it for less. You would control the valve with a button.

http://www.hydraulicstore.com/index.php?loc=items_detail&data[history]=&data[catalog]=1&data[itemcode]=9502712

Yes, if you want short hoses, that is what you will get. You need to have the hoses have a loop in them. Can you do that with the shorter hoses? The top link comes with 90* fittings, those fittings really should be pointing backwards towards the implement.

The top link should fit in all 3 hole locations without problem, that is the reason for the additional length. Yes you would be getting a cat 2 top link.

Green is no problem, but will be an additional cost of what the JD dealer gets for their paint.