Skidding logs

[Tollster]

Any ideas on using my BX for skidding logs? Chains or cables, any kind of chokers? Do's and don't would be very helpful as I don't have much time in the woods on it. I do have a full belly pan for protection of the fan.
Thanks

 

[s219]

Use a choker attached to a skidding plate (or somthing similar) on the 3-point to lift the nose of the log off the ground, and another short chain from the bottom of the choker to the rear drawbar for the actual pulling. You don't want to pull directly from the 3-point, as the pull point would be high and you could easily do a wheelie and flip if the log got hung on something. Go slow and steady, and be ready to stomp the clutch and ease on the brake if something gets hung up.

 

[Tollster]

Use a choker attached to a skidding plate (or somthing similar) on the 3-point to lift the nose of the log off the ground, and another short chain from the bottom of the choker to the rear drawbar for the actual pulling. You don't want to pull directly from the 3-point, as the pull point would be high and you could easily do a wheelie and flip if the log got hung on something. Go slow and steady, and be ready to stomp the clutch and ease on the brake if something gets hung up.

s219, do you think I could hook my drawbar on the 3 point to elevate the log, then use a short chain,and hook the chain to the boot of the choker cable,and the other end to the bootom of the tractor frame eylet with a clevis.

My only drawbar attaches to the 3 point,and as I understand you,I do not want to pull with that as I could roll over or wheelie. So if I understand correctly,the choker cable should omly be use to elevate the log end, therefore I should always try to keep that cable perpendicular to the ground,and the pulling tension on the chain?

I recon it would be best to always hook the chain to the log first, then elevate it with the choker or visa versa?

 

[pjbci]

Getcha a pair of logging tongs. Hook em to 3ph drawbar. Be very careful, go slow and you want have any problems. This technique allows you to completely lift the butt off the ground and lets you hook up and unhook without getting off tractor.

 

[Carykong]

I have done plenty of skidding with a chain and/or skidding tongs attached to my 3pt hitch. It is not the approved method in the owner's manual because of the risk of a wheelie. Yet,with a small tractor ,such as,a bx,hydro right?,some weight in your FEL bucket,I suspect your tires will spin or the motor will stall before your front end gets light. Don't rush anything,operate in lowest range,you will be fine using your 3pt.

 

[Egon]

I have skidded a log or two with a Kubota B7100 HST using the three point for lifting and pulling. Always kept the loader bucket full of rocks.:thumbsup:

 

[s219]

My only drawbar attaches to the 3 point,and as I understand you,I do not want to pull with that as I could roll over or wheelie. So if I understand correctly,the choker cable should omly be use to elevate the log end, therefore I should always try to keep that cable perpendicular to the ground,and the pulling tension on the chain?

I recon it would be best to always hook the chain to the log first, then elevate it with the choker or visa versa?

You have it about right, and I don't think the order matters much. If you just lifted with the three-point and then drove off, the choker (I use a chain choker, by the way) would swing out away from the tractor before it starts pulling the log (or another way to look at it is that the tractor would drive away from the log before it starts pulling). The secondary chain to the pulling point stops that motion, and transfers the majority of the pulling force.

You can experiment with chains and chain hookup arrangements to get a setup that works well for you. Normally, I lift the log with the choker on the 3-point and then tension the pulling chain to hold the butt of the log against my 3-point skidding plate.

The more vertical you can keep the choker, the less pulling it can do, and that will be the safest arrangement.

 

[Egon]

The more vertical you can keep the choker, the less pulling it can do, and that will be the safest arrangement./QUOTE]

Puts more weight on the rear tires giving lots more traction.:thumbsup:

 

[Baby Grand]

Plan your route very carefully.
>You'll need more room for turns.
>Avoid crossing abrupt dips and rises - they can hang up the butt of the log and that's bad.
>Watch out for stumps, roots, rocks, ledge, etc.
>Avoid steep downhills with the load until you know the capabilities of your braking system with that much added weight.
>Avoid steep uphills until you know the capabilities of your tractor's traction under that day's conditions.
>It's hard to back down a hill you can't climb over with a log hitched to the back.

 

[Ken Pike]

I have a 1980 B7100 with 2900 hrs. on the clock. In January (coldest snap we had all winter!) I cut & skidded out 5 cord of Maple logs for firewood, on a lot a guy wanted cleared. Cold enough that the boggy ares were frozen & about 8" of snow to help skidding. I welded up the trailer hitch/skidding attachment that bolts to my 3 point draw bar & used a 12', 5/16" galv. chain with a slip hook on the log end as a choker. The chain went through the loop on the hitch & fastened to a grab hook where the top link attaches (might work even better if the hitch with the loop was shorter so the chain was more vertical going to the grab hook at the top). Lift the log with the 3 point hydraulics & take off in 1st gear, 4wd. Biggest log was 16" & 12' long. Tractor was amazing - small enough to go anywhere without cutting roads & lifted/hauled everything I cut. Never once attempted to lift the front end even when log got hung up. I have (2) suitcase weights hung from the front bumper. It even started easily in -18C since i replaced the seized decompression cable. I had to climb a small hill approaching my dump area, so I would give it lots of throttle approaching the hill & stand on the diff. lock. Hardly any wheel spin but by the time I neared the top I would use the brakes to steer as the logs would roll a bit & try to pull me sideways. Had a ball.

 

[Mark Page]

Unless you like sharpening chain saw teeth buck em' in the woods and take em' out with your loader. If you drag em' out on dirt you'll get the bark packed with dirt, which is hard on chains.
The exception of course is when there is snow to drag em' on.
I really hate sharpening chain saw chains.

 

[g0rd0]

Ken I like what you did there:thumbsup:

 

[smfcpacfp]

An alternative to skidding might be what I use most of the time is a Westendorf Brush crusher or similar device. Not only is it good for moving trees (if you have the space), but it great for cutting them up on the spot. I use tow chains for skidding if I have two, but normally I would not.

 

[simoutdoors]

If you are going to do much I suggest a device such as the log hog for the BX. I have one for my BX 2360 and it works well for skidding trees for firewood. The BX is a surprisingly strong puller, but isn't a skidder. Start small with your logs and get a feel of how the tractor handles the load.

Norwood Log Hog Log Skidder Tractor Attachment, Model# 41255 Log Hog | Logging Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[Short Game]

In the years when I'm far enough ahead to have the time, I like to pressure wash the logs before I buck them to firewood length. It's amazing how many cords I can buck without filing the saw when I do that. Having clean wood to bring in is nice on the other end too.


I drag most logs out with a chain choker, grab hook on one end and a slide hook on the other. I have a receiver hitch in the middle of my box blade and an electric winch on top of it. I rarely use the winch. I take the chain around a trailer ball to a grab hook on the corner of the box blade. This works well for me. I have a home built set of log forks that are 75 inches wide. As soon as I have the logs in the clear, I buck them to a length I can carry to my wood yard for bucking and splitting. The less I have to skid them, the cleaner they stay.

 

[s219]

If you are going to do much I suggest a device such as the log hog for the BX. I have one for my BX 2360 and it works well for skidding trees for firewood. The BX is a surprisingly strong puller, but isn't a skidder. Start small with your logs and get a feel of how the tractor handles the load.

Norwood Log Hog Log Skidder Tractor Attachment, Model# 41255 Log Hog | Logging Accessories | Northern Tool + Equipment

Here's the one I bought for my tractor:

Heavy Duty Three Point Tractor Trailer Hitch | eBay

It's real well made, and the guy has them available in multiple colors to match the popular tractor brands. It's very well made, and the price is right. I've been real happy with it. I mainly bought it to skid logs, but have used it even more to move my trailers around.

 

[Tollster]

Some great information here,I love the attachments and have a birthday coming, so I am working on my wish list. I also have a local fabricator that seems to be a decent welder with fair prices. I like the three point attachements,but have saw some last night where the load looks like its placed high if that is the only attachment point. I was wondering if it would be worthy to have something fabbed that rigs on the three point, but no cross bar on the lower side.
That way I could lower the 3 point right over the stump,and use a chain achored to the rear of the tractor chassis for pulling. I loooked around last night and found this on a deere,but thought if it has a hook up on top for the choker or tongs,it could be the ticket. I was able to get some brush forks from brotek and bolted in the bucket. But have not had a chance to use them as the property is about 8 mlies away.

What do ya'll think.

I burned a few more piles today, I am trying to get the small suff knocked down and burned so I have room to move, particularly with the mild weather and tick season coming. Lyme is pretty bad in these parts and the mild winter is gonna make it that much worse. I am working all pine saplings,and hemlocks up to about 6-10".
I have been using diesel for starting the fire with cardboard and used motor oil to get the temps up (Larger stuff) so it consumes the green wood, but the coolest thing I have I have up my sleave and help reduce diesel usage is my leaf blower. I figure there is plenty of fuel in the pile, so just add air...turns into a blast furnace/forge pretty quick. Most of the time I set the blower down and just let it idle while I work another pile. It really is unbelievable how hot it gets...within 3 minutes or so.

I like that rig s219,and the price is fair..for sure.

 

[Gordon Gould]

If you are considering getting something fabbed up you might think about the arrangement in the first picture. You get plenty of lift but you are connected to the draw bar not the top link.
If I am not using my winch I use a cross draw bar on the 3 pt arms, a tractor hook, and a couple chokers. All available at TSC.
All the ideas will work as long as you are careful.

 

[schweizer]

Why not just use chain hooks on the FEL and drive backwards? You can't do a wheelie then and you can lift the log easy enough. Has to be pretty big log to max out the FEL.

Just a few days ago I was pulling out logs from the hillside onto the road by using a choker on a 75' x 1/4" cable. I pulled at 90 deg to the log via a pulley attached to a tree on the opposite side of the road from the log. You don't want to pull in-line w/ a cable. If the cable breaks you could be sliced pretty good. Once the logs were on the road, it was easy to buck and split. (Actually, I did break the cable eventually, but we were hauling up a big tree that got caught on a stump. The 7500 lb tractor was no match for a 1/4" cable.)

Marcus

 

[Baby Grand]

I wouldn't use the FEL that way. Pulling at any kind of angle and hanging up on a root could tweek it. May work fine with your machine, but not for everybody.