Backhoe Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware

[nickel plate]

Those McMaster alignment pins are a lot less expensive then what a machinist is going to charge you for 30 mins.

I opened that link yesterday and if I remember correctly they only go up to 1-1/4" diameter-my pin is 1-1/2".

 

[IslandTractor]

I opened that link yesterday and if I remember correctly they only go up to 1-1/4" diameter-my pin is 1-1/2".

I discovered the same. Unfortunately I don't think 1-1/4" is going to be close enough although perhaps combined with chamfering on the pin itself it could work. Although McMaster Carr calls them alignment pins that does not seem to be a standard name as a google search on that term doesn't come up with other suppliers. I guess 1-1/2" bolts are not used in steel building or bridge construction which is likely the main use for these things.

 

[wedge40]

i still say I'd figure out how to make a rolling base for the ripper. Something you could roll into place and then put legs down to make it stable. Made out of wood with casters. Should take an hour or so to put together.

Wedge

 

[JFS2295]

..... Although McMaster Carr calls them alignment pins that does not seem to be a standard name as a google search on that term doesn't come up with other suppliers. I guess 1-1/2" bolts are not used in steel building or bridge construction which is likely the main use for these things.

The real name for these are Bull Pins or Drift Pins. Drift pins have a taper on both ends, bull pins have either a head or no head, depending what you are using them for.

Man .... 1.5" pin. The Arps pins are not that large. I've not seen them that large either. I guess you guys are back to straight rod and a lot of grinding.

 

[IslandTractor]

I suppose a 1.25" tapered "bull" pin combined with the actual 1.5 bucket pin would work together if we chamfer the bucket pin down to 1.25". The bull pin could go in first followed by the chamfered pin. The chamfer would need to be as shallow as possible without extending into the bearing surface.

 

[JFS2295]

Years ago I have made bucket pins that were 1/2" longer so I could chamfer that 1/2". Plus my "alignment" pin is only 1/8" smaller then the real pin.

Maybe with a bull pin you could plug weld or braze on some 1.25" ID x 1.375" or larger OD tubing so only a small amount needs to be ground with a chamfer to continue the taper.

 

[IslandTractor]

Years ago I have made bucket pins that were 1/2" longer so I could chamfer that 1/2". Plus my "alignment" pin is only 1/8" smaller then the real pin.

Maybe with a bull pin you could plug weld or braze on some 1.25" ID x 1.375" or larger OD tubing so only a small amount needs to be ground with a chamfer to continue the taper.

Good idea.

 

[nickel plate]

I went over to my local hydraulic shop who built the grapple hoses, explained that I needed about a foot or so of 1-1/2" solid round stock but I was concerned about the surface finish possibly scratching the dipper stick, hydraulic thumb and ripper tooth pin shaft surfaces. Glad I brought that up because the shop's owner took me over to the scrap bin where I found this castoff 1-1/2" chromed hydraulic cylinder rod. He handed it to me and said, "Happy new year!".
I started the small nubbed end on the opposite side of the Woods pin and working them in unison, got the Woods pin set in place in about five minutes.

 

[IslandTractor]

Lucky duck!

 

[jake98]

A piece of 1" sched. 40 black pipe would probably be just about right.

 

[pclausen]

IT, do you know if the Woods BH1050 has the same bucket mounting point dimensions as the BH90x?

The BH1050 is slightly larger than the BH90 and has a little higher breakout force (6000 lbs).

I'm going to contact MIE about making me one of these bad boys!

Thanks

 

[IslandTractor]

IT, do you know if the Woods BH1050 has the same bucket mounting point dimensions as the BH90x?

The BH1050 is slightly larger than the BH90 and has a little higher breakout force (6000 lbs).

I'm going to contact MIE about making me one of these bad boys!

Thanks

Not sure. When I needed precise dimensions to give MIE, I called Woods tech support and the gave me a PDF of the bucket mount design drawing with dimensions. I'm sure they have one for the 1050 too.

 

[pclausen]

Thanks. I'll give them a call assuming everything works out with me picking up the BH1050 today. A local farmer had it sitting in his shed for years and wasn't using it. Hoping to pick it up for under $4k.

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks. I'll give them a call assuming everything works out with me picking up the BH1050 today. A local farmer had it sitting in his shed for years and wasn't using it. Hoping to pick it up for under $4k.

Hope it has a subframe. If not ask about that too when you call Woods. The guys in tech support (or engineering, don't recall exactly), were very helpful.

 

[Coyote machine]

IT, do you know if the Woods BH1050 has the same bucket mounting point dimensions as the BH90x?

The BH1050 is slightly larger than the BH90 and has a little higher breakout force (6000 lbs).

I'm going to contact MIE about making me one of these bad boys!

Thanks

When you contact them make sure to ask Bob about the 'CLAW'; its the second generation ripper- and has teeth on both the front and back to aid in destroying anything in its way:thumbsup:
I have the first one they built.

 

[pclausen]

When you contact them make sure to ask Bob about the 'CLAW'; its the second generation ripper- and has teeth on both the front and back to aid in destroying anything in its way:thumbsup:
I have the first one they built.

I will indeed! Read through this entire thread last night.

 

[pclausen]

Hope it has a subframe. If not ask about that too when you call Woods. The guys in tech support (or engineering, don't recall exactly), were very helpful.

Ok, so I figured this would come up. I have read through all the threads on 3pt backhoes (and there were a *lot*), and no, the Woods BH1050 does not come with a subframe, and as far as I know, they don't make one for this model.

The thing is that I will be using this on a John Deere 5085M with a heavy duty category 2 hitch. There is no way I'll tear apart the top link, nor crack that tractor in half with this backhoe. In fact, I spoke to my JD dealer today, and he said I had absolutely nothing to worry about hooking this Woods 3pt backhoe up to my M tractor. He has seen a 3000 series that broke in half from using a 3pt hitch, but with a 5M and above, he said, have at it.

Here's what I picked up today sitting next to my 1445 for scale. This is a 10' 6" hoe for sure!

The cat2 top link is very beefy to say the least:

Another angle:

Sorry, don't mean to derail this excellent thread.

 

[IslandTractor]

If your dealer says it is ok without a subframe that helps. Using a ripper does put a fair amount of stress on the tractor though as you will frequently max out the lift. Not as bad as digging concrete or big rocks but not just moving sand either.

 

[Coyote machine]

Yes, the bucket is much easier as it sits in a stable position and as you note it can easily be rocked or nudged. The ripper is only stable when upside down so requires balancing at the same time as manipulating to line up pins. It really would be a great torture puzzle.

I know this part of this thread goes back some in time, BUT I was wondering if hook- up to the ripper, ( or version two: CLAW) is just a problem with the Woods series hoes? I found that hook-up to the Kioti KB-2485 is real easy! I just put the ripper onto a 4 wheel dolly one can buy most anywhere and faced the point toward the hoe and lowered the dipper stick and everything went together with no problem. Am I missing something or just a genius?:thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

Well Coyote, we know you're a genius already. I don't have a little dolly as I don't have a concrete floor. I usually am in turf or dirt outside when switching. Still you have a point and maybe I should get a piece of plywood so a roller cart could be used.

I've always thought that a transmission jack would be perfect if they were not so expensive. That would allow up/ down fine movements as well as rolling on a flat surface.