Another Mini-Dozer

[rawinok2]

Thanks cshulz for the websight.
Those are priced quite reasonable. Plus they have my 16HP gas for fifty bucks less than what I paid.
If I'd only known a few months ago....


A little more progress...
Can anyone tell me how to make my photos smaller ?

 

[ben2go]

Looking good.Starting to look like a nice size crawler.I use photobucket to host my pics and resize them under the edit column.Very easy to do.You can import the pics into paint on your computer and then resize the pic or crop it down to a smaller size.If you do this,make sure to save the pic as a copy.If you click save,it will replace the original pic.Hope this helps.

 

[beppington]

Pic sizes are perfect IMO.

 

[Short Game]

Pic sizes are perfect IMO.

Agreed. I like the option of zooming in to some detail or other.

 

[NormL]

Agreed. I like the option of zooming in to some detail or other.

X2:thumbsup:

 

[J_J]

Neat project, I'll be following this.

I have a set of plans to build the Magnatrac 1800, the one that uses a 4spd transaxle. Hopefully someday I'll have the time to build it. Just looks like something fun to build and play with. I wanted to get plans for one of the newer ones like the MT 3000, but they seem real stingy about releasing any plans that use their current track system.

MT 1800:

One bit of advice, and you may already employ this technique, is the use of hole saws. I have found that any hole 1" and over is much easier to make with a good quality hole saw. All the Lenox ones I've used have been surprisingly accurate. I've made holes as big as 2.5" through 1/2" plate with them with great success. I like to drill a 3/16 pilot hole to line them up, then just go slow (200-500rpms depending on dia.) and clean the chips out often. I also keep a bowl of water nearby to occasionally dip the hole saw in to cool it. I stopped using cutting oil years ago in favor of water for any drilling processes. Saves a lot of time cleaning parts before welding and I haven't noticed and reduced life of the bits either.

Also, I really think if everything works well after an initial test run, you should send out all the undercarriage related parts to get professionally heat treated. It's not terribly expensive but will increase track and sprocket life by a lot.

Look great so far. :thumbsup:

I have an M-1800 Magnatrack 16 HP I would like to sell.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Pic sizes are perfect IMO.

DITTO!!!!

EXCELLENT workmanship!
David

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

This is a great build and you workmanship is supurb. After looking at your rear sprockets I am wondering if the teeth are deep enough. If you don't keep the track fairly tight it could easily slip. On a factory built dozer the teeth are pretty long and come to a point. I understand your not building a D8 but you also want it to be functionable.
Bill

 

[actionaj]

WOW Really cool project excellent job. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[mjncad]

Pic sizes are perfect IMO.

Pix are A-OK and so is your project!

 

[rawinok2]

This is a great build and you workmanship is supurb.

After looking at your rear sprockets I am wondering if the teeth are deep enough. If you don't keep the track fairly tight it could easily slip. On a factory built dozer the teeth are pretty long and come to a point. I understand your not building a D8 but you also want it to be functionable.

Bill

First of all, thanks Ben2go for the photo resizing advice, but it looks like the majority wants me to leave it alone.
The depth of the of the sprocket teeth are a concern to me. I may have made a bad choice by making the sprockets with twice the number of teeth as needed. The track pitch is 3" and the sprockets are made for 1.5" pitch chain. I wanted the sprockets to look normal but in order to have enough clearance for the extra tooth, I had to grind them down. Another problem may be that the track may be thrown because there is no hole for the extra tooth to push debris through. Time will tell, I'm not changing it untill I try it.
The 1st photo below is of the rear end. It will have a cat.0 three point hitch operated with an electric linear actuator. I had to jump ahead and work on the blade bracket... it was just buggin me.

 

[ben2go]

First of all, thanks Ben2go for the photo resizing advice, but it looks like the majority wants me to leave it alone.
The depth of the of the sprocket teeth are a concern to me. I may have made a bad choice by making the sprockets with twice the number of teeth as needed. The track pitch is 3" and the sprockets are made for 1.5" pitch chain. I wanted the sprockets to look normal but in order to have enough clearance for the extra tooth, I had to grind them down. Another problem may be that the track may be thrown because there is no hole for the extra tooth to push debris through. Time will tell, I'm not changing it untill I try it.
The 1st photo below is of the rear end. It will have a cat.0 three point hitch operated with an electric linear actuator. I had to jump ahead and work on the blade bracket... it was just buggin me.

You're welcome.Projects looking ace.
:thumbsup:

 

[Verticaltrx]

Looks like it is coming along nicely. I'd take a look at using hydraulics for the 3pt and blade. 16hp is plenty to run a small pump in addition to the driving the tractor. A 2-4gpm pump, small reservoir and a 2-3spool valve and it'd be setup well to work numerous functions. You can get all that stuff from surplus center for fairly cheap and it'd make it a lot easier to use and more useful IMO. The size cylinders you'd need are fairly inexpensive. Just a thought, maybe there are other reasons you want to go electric.

 

[Verticaltrx]

I have an M-1800 Magnatrack 16 HP I would like to sell.

Thanks for the offer, but half the fun for me would be building it. :thumbsup:

 

[Short Game]

Originally Posted by J_J
I have an M-1800 Magnatrack 16 HP I would like to sell.

I'd go look at it if it was just a mile or so down the road.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I second the recommendation for hydraulics. As nice and professional as this build is, hydraulics is the right way to go.

 

[rawinok2]

Looks like it is coming along nicely. I'd take a look at using hydraulics for the 3pt and blade. 16hp is plenty to run a small pump in addition to the driving the tractor. A 2-4gpm pump, small reservoir and a 2-3spool valve and it'd be setup well to work numerous functions. You can get all that stuff from surplus center for fairly cheap and it'd make it a lot easier to use and more useful IMO. The size cylinders you'd need are fairly inexpensive. Just a thought, maybe there are other reasons you want to go electric.

The reason I'm not going with hydraulics is that I'm on a very tight budget and as it is, I'm going to have a little over $2,000.00 in it. I already have the electric actuators from previous projects. Someday, when money is not an issue, I'd like to build one with a diesel engine, hydraulic drive, as well as hydraulic six way bucket and maybe even a backhoe. I purchased a
4x8' sheet of 11 gauge and as shown in the first photo, made a hood. I'll use the rest of it to make a top and sides for the transmision, a battery box, a tool tray for under the seat and as shown in the 3rd photo, the blade. I know some are going to say that 11 gauge is way too light for the blade but, if properly re-enforced it might hold up and I can always make a heavier one if necessary. The 2nd photo shows the installation of the foot rests made from treadplate. The 4th photo is of the reverse running flat faced drive pulley that I had to have my Dad's tool & die shop make. I had called Struck to ask them where one could be purchased and they told me "down at your local hardware store" .... what a crock !! :laughing:

 

[ben2go]

It's shaping up real nice.Will you be running dual batteries or deep cycle batteries to power the actuators?

 

[cschulz]

RAWINOK2, sent you PM/Email. love the project


Chris

 

[ericher69]

Rawinok2,

How much will this little beast weigh when completed?